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The highlight of our trip to Nablus was a walk through the Old City. It sits at the center of the city and contains several historic landmarks.
Martyrs’ Square
We visited Nablus on a guided tour from Jerusalem. Our first stops were at Mount Gerizim, Jacob’s Well, and Tell Balata. Our guide then took us to the Old City, where we parked the bus outside Martyrs’ Square and walked to the souq.
Souq
We followed our guide through the souq, past fruit and vegetable stands, butcher shops, clothing shops, and more. Some members of the group stopped to buy some fruits and chat with the friendly shopkeepers.
Al-Hanbali Mosque
Next, we stopped outside the al-Hanbali Mosque. It was built by the Hanbali family between 1526 and 1527. Peeking into the mosque, I was able to see the ancient stone pillars and column capitals used in its construction. They date back to Byzantine and possibly Roman times. The Hanbali family still administer the mosque’s affairs.
Spice Shops
From there, we walked to a street with several spice shops and popped into one of them. The owners pointed out some of the important spices they sell.
Al-Shifa Hamam
We continued through the souq until we reached the open-air streets of the Old City. Walking through the streets, we then passed the al-Shifa Hamam, which is a Turkish bath built in 1624 by the Tuqan family.
Abu Harbi Ayesh
Turning down one of the side streets, our guide took us to a local halva shop, Abu Harbi Ayesh, which has been around since 1860. The owner gave us a quick demonstration about how his halva is made as well as some small samples. We made sure to buy some to take home!
An-Nabulsi Soap Factory
Next, we visited the an-Nabulsi Soap Factory. Nabulsi soap is produced only in Nablus and has been an important industry since the 14th century. By 1907, there were 30 factories producing over 5,000 tons of soap annually. Now, there are only a handful remaining.
The manager of the factory gave us a quick lecture on how the soap is made, and we were then able to buy some soap for ourselves. The recipe for Nabulsi soap includes olive oil, water, and an alkaline sodium compound.
Ottoman Palace
A few steps away is the main square of the Old City. On the south end of the square is the Ottoman Palace, which housed the Ottoman government offices during their rule.
Manara Clock Tower
In the center of the square is the Manara Clock Tower, which stands five stories high. It was built in 1906 by Ottoman Sultan Abdülhamid II to celebrate the 30 year anniversary of his ascension to the throne.
An-Nasr Mosque
Next to the clock tower, on the west side of the square, is the an-Nasr Mosque. It was built on the site of a Byzantine church. During the Crusader period, the Knights Templar built another smaller church with a red dome on the site. When the Crusaders lost Nablus to Saladin in 1187, the church was converted to a mosque.
The an-Nasr Mosque was destroyed by an earthquake in 1927. It was rebuilt in 1935 with a completely different structural design.
Khan al-Tujjar
From the square, we took a quick walk through Khan al-Tujjar, a 15th century caravanserai. During Ottoman rule from the 16th to 19th centuries, it was the most expensive strip of commercial real estate in Nablus. The caravanserai is regarded as the finest of its kind in the region.
Great Mosque of Nablus
Near Khan al-Tujjar is the Great Mosque of Nablus, which our guide didn’t point out. It was originally a Byzantine church that was converted to a mosque during the early Islamic period. The Crusaders reconsecrated it as a church in the 12th century, and it was converted to a mosque once again in 1187 under Saladin.
The Great Mosque of Nablus was burned down by the Knights Templar during the Sack of Nablus on October 30, 1242. It was rebuilt by the end of the 13th century. The dome and minaret were destroyed during the earthquake in 1927 and restored in 1935.
Gold Shops
On our way back to the bus, the guide took us down a street full of strictly gold and jewelry shops. We admired some of the work along the way. When we reached the bus, we started our drive to Jenin.
