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Ayakapı is a small neighborhood on the southern shore of the Golden Horn in Istanbul. It’s located in the Fatih district between Fener and Cibali and is often skipped over by visitors to the city.
Introduction to Ayakapı
Ayakapı translates to Holy Gate, after a church dedicated to St. Theodosia located near the gate (see below). During the Byzantine era, the neighborhood was named Ta Dexiokratiana or Ta Dexiokratous, because the houses were owned by a man named Dexiokrates.
While it’s true there’s not much to see in the area, there are a few important historic buildings. It also doesn’t take very long to explore.
Gül Mosque
The most important building in Ayakapı is the Gül Mosque (Gül Camii), which translates to Rose Mosque. It was originally built as a Byzantine church but the construction date is disputed by experts. The church is believed to be part of the Monastery of Saint Theodosia (Μονή τής Άγιας Θεοδοσίας εν τοις Δεξιοκράτους), which was built in the late 9th century by Emperor Basil I. It’s also possible it was part of the Monastery of Christ the Benefactor (Μονή του Χριστού του Ευεργέτου), which sat nearby.
On May 28, 1453, Emperor Constantine XI went to the church to pray. It was the eve of both the feast day of St. Theodosia and the Fall of Constantinople. The Emperor then left to participate in his final battle while locals remained inside all night to pray for the salvation of the city.
When Ottoman troops reached the church the next morning, they found it decorated with garlands of roses (which is one theory for the name Rose Mosque). They captured the people inside and held them as prisoners of war, threw away holy relics, and cast the body of St. Theodosia to the dogs.
The church fell into disrepair after the Ottoman conquest. It was renovated and converted into a mosque in 1490. A minaret was added during the reign of Selim II sometime between 1566 and 1574. The building was damaged by earthquakes in the 17th and 18th centuries, and it was repaired by Murad IV. Mahmud II repaired it again in the early 19th century and added a wooden sultan’s loge.
Features of the Gül Mosque
The church was built on a square cross plan and is topped by five domes. There are two galleries, and each contained a small chapel at the end. The building sits on a vaulted basement that was used for secular purposes during Byzantine times and as a naval warehouse before its conversion to a mosque. The mosque has been closed every time I’ve tried to visit.
Küçük Mustafa Pasha Hamam
Behind the Gül Mosque is the Küçük Mustafa Pasha Hamam (Küçük Mustafa Paşa Hamamı). It was built in 1477 by Küçük Mustafa Pasha, a vizier under Mehmed the Conqueror. He was executed in 1483 by Sultan Bayezid II for supporting Cem Sultan (1459-1495) in the battle for succession to the throne.
The hamam was used as such until the 1990s. It covered an area of over 2,000 square meters and had section for men and women. It includes original marble basins and massage slabs. The building was restored between 2009 and 2011. It’s now used as an event venue and for exhibition space.
Ayakapı Hamam
On the main road along the Golden Horn is the Ayakapı Hamam (Ayakapı Hamamı). It was built in 1582 by Nurbanu Sultan (1525-1583), the chief consort of Sultan Selim II and the mother of Sultan Murad III. The bath was also known as the Havuzlu Hamam and its purpose was to provide income for the Atik Valide Mosque in Üsküdar. The architect was Mimar Sinan (1490-1588).
The bath was for men only, probably because of the great number of sailors and ship maintenance workers in the area during Ottoman times. It’s currently being used as a timber storage warehouse.
St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church
Also on the main road is the St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church (Ἅγιος Νικόλαος Τζιβαλίου / Aya Nikola Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi). The current church was built in 1837 but dates back to at least 1724. Another church stood on the site before the Fall of Constantinople. There’s also a chapel and holy spring dedicated to St. Haralambos on the property.
The entrance to the courtyard is down a short flight of stairs, where there’s an open narthex. It’s surrounded by meeting rooms and classrooms. A model ship stands above the entrance to the church.
The nave of the church is beautifully decorated and contains several antique icons. There’s also a copy of firmans from Mehmed the Conqueror and Bayezid II protecting the Church of St. Mary of the Mongols in Fener from conversion to a mosque.
