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While in Mompox, we decided to take an ecological cruise down the Magdalena River to the Ciénaga de Pijiño, a large swamp.
How to Tour the Ciénaga de Pijiño
Tours cost COP$50,000 per person (as of June 2024). We bought our tickets from a man selling tours on the street for Valerosa Tours, but you can also get them at the old Market Building along La Albarrada. Tours last three hours and leave from Plaza de San Francisco. Guides speak Spanish only.
Cruising the Magdalena River
After boarding the small motorized boat, we took off down the Magdalena River. Our guide talked a bit about life on the river as we passed some small communities. He also showed us how the banks of the river were eroding, swallowing up entire trees in the process.
The Canal to Ciénaga de Pijiño
30 minutes later, we came to the village of Peñoncito. It sits at the mouth of a small natural canal that runs between the river and the ciénaga. We turned down the canal and continued our journey.
At times, the captain would turn off the engines and point out birds along the way. We saw kingfishers, hawks, cormorants, and many more different species. I lost count after about 15.
We were also able to observe life along the canal. There were a few very simple houses inhabited by cattle farmers. Cows grazed along the canal. We also saw several gigantic iguanas resting on the banks.
Ciénaga de Pijiño
Finally, the canal started to widen and we entered the ciénaga. It was a huge shallow lake dotted with plants and fishermen in small canoes.
Village of Pijiño
We crossed over to the other side of the ciénaga until we came to the village of Pijiño. Several children rushed out to greet us and put planks down to help us step off the boat.
We walked over to a recently constructed promenade (malecón) next to the ciénaga. Nearby, a group of locals was playing football.
From the promenade, we were able to look out onto the ciénaga, spotting flocks of birds flying through the air and taking in the beautiful natural setting. Some of our group decided to take a swim and headed back to the boat.
While we waited for the swimmers to return, Marisol and I played football with the local children.
We also took a quick walk into the village. It was interesting to see how the locals lived in such a remote place.
Returning to Mompox
When the boat came back to pick us up, we returned to Mompox and got a panoramic view of the town from the river. All in all, it was a great way to spend the afternoon.
