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Kadırga is a neighborhood in Istanbul, Turkey. It sits between Kumkapı and Küçük Ayasofya, and has a few minor points of interest.
History
During Byzantine times, Kadırga was known as Kontoskálion (Κοντοσκάλιον). It served as a harbor for the city of Constantinople from the 6th century all the way up until the mid-18th century. The harbor was also known as the Harbor of Julian, Harbor of Sophia, and Portus Novus. During Ottoman times, it was called the Harbor of the Galleys (Kadırga Limanı). In fact, today’s Kadırga Limanı Street follows the old shoreline of the harbor, and much of the neighborhood is built on reclaimed land.
Kadırga Park
The harbor has since been filled in, and part of it is occupied by Kadırga Park (Kadırga Parkı). It contains a large fountain in the center and is a nice place to sit and relax.
Esma Sultan Fountain
The Esma Sultan Fountain (Esma Sultan Çeşmesi) sits in a corner of the park. It was built in 1781 by Esma Sultan (1726-1788), the daughter of Sultan Ahmed III. A staircase on one side led to an open-air prayer space for Muslims on top.
Istanbul Photography Museum (Permanently Closed)
On the west side of the park is the Istanbul Photography Museum (İstanbul Fotoğraf Müzesi). It opened on November 19, 2011, and consists of five photo galleries, an archive, and a library. The museum was permanently closed the last time I walked by in June 2022.
Kadırga Hamam
Just north of the park is the historic Kadırga Hamam (Kadırga Hamamı). It was built in 1741 by Hatibzade Yahya Pasha (d. 1755), the Ottoman governor of Egypt at that time. He also briefly served as Grand Admiral (Kaptan-ı Derya) of the Ottoman Navy.
The hamam looks run down from the outside, but the inside is typically what you’d expect from a hamam. There’s a men’s and women’s section and it’s open daily. Check the official website for prices.
Üsküplü Gazi Yahya Pasha Primary School
Finally, heading east from the park towards the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque is the Üsküplü Gazi Yahya Pasha Primary School (Üsküplü Gazi Yahya Paşa Sıbyan Mektebi). It was built in 1506 by Üsküplü Gazi Yahya Pasha (d. 1506), an Ottoman statesman and governor of Bosnia during the reign of Sultan Bayezid II. He married Hüma Hatun (1466-c. 1520), Bayezid II’s daughter, in 1501.
The building has two floors and is topped by an octagonal dome. It was restored by the local government in 2016. Today, it’s occupied by Deco Turca, an antique shop selling carpets, ceramics, and other items.
Bukhara Uzbek Dervish Lodge
Just north of the Sokollu Mehmed Pasha Mosque is the Bukhara Uzbek Dervish Lodge (Buhara Özbekler Tekkesi). It was built in 1692 by Ismail Bey, a treasurer of the Ottoman Empire. It hosted Sufi dervishes traveling to Constantinople from central Asia to visit the tomb of Abu Ayyub al-Ansari at the Eyüp Sultan Mosque. The lodge was also a gathering place for local members of the Nakhshbandi order of Sufis who arrived in the city in the 17th century.
The building was renovated in 1887 by Sultan Abdülhamid II. In 1965, the wooden roof was destroyed by fire, leaving much of the building in ruins. The city of Istanbul renovated it between 2006 and 2008, and it now houses the Istanbul Design Center (İstanbul Tasarım Merkezi). They periodically host art workshops and exhibitions.
Ottoman Architecture
Finally, one of the joys of wandering through Kadırga is admiring the old wooden Ottoman homes and buildings. Many are quietly crumbling with time, but some have been nicely restored. Also, nearby you can visit the Little Hagia Sophia Mosque, which is older than Hagia Sophia itself.
