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Nişantaşı and Teşvikiye are two closely intertwined upscale neighborhoods in the Şişli district of Istanbul.
Introduction to Nişantaşı and Teşvikiye
The area making up Nişantaşı, which also encompasses Teşvikiye, was used for archery target practice by Sultan Selim III in the late 18th century. In fact, Nişantaşı translates to target stone. The archery distance records for a few sultans are marked by stones scattered throughout the area. They’re shaped like small obelisks. A record for Selim III, dating back to around 1790, is at the intersection of Rumeli Street and Vali Konağı Street. Another record for Abdülmecid I is in front of the Harbiye Police Station on Teşvikiye Street.
In the early 19th century, Sultan Mahmud II began encouraging people to settle in the area. Teşvikiye translates to encouragement. After the Balkan Wars in 1912 and 1913, many Turks from northern Greece, especially Thessaloniki, moved to the neighborhoods.
Getting to Nişantaşı and Teşvikiye
The best way to get to Nişantaşı and Teşvikiye is to walk down Rumeli Street from the Osmanbey metro station. You can also walk down Vali Konağı Street from the Harbiye Military Museum.
Shopping in Nişantaşı and Teşvikiye
Nowadays, Nişantaşı and Teşvikiye are high-end shopping districts. Several luxury brands have stores in the area, especially along Abdi İpekçi and Teşvikiye Streets. They make up Turkey’s most expensive shopping district.
Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Mont Blanc, Salvatore Ferragamo, Rolex, Omega, and Chanel are among the brands you can find on Abdi İpekçi Street. It runs from Vali Konağı Street south into the Maçka neighborhood.
What to See in Nişantaşı
Nişantaşı is more about shopping and food but you’ll find a couple points of interest.
Vedat Tek House
If you walk to Nişantaşı from the Harbiye Military Museum, you’ll pass the Vedat Tek House (Vedat Tek Evi). It was the home of Turkish architect Vedat Tek (1873-1942). The house was built from 1913 to 1914 in the First National style of architecture pioneered by Tek. It features turquoise tiles and Islamic geometric patterns.
Abdi İpekçi Monument
About halfway down Abdi İpekçi Street is a small square containing a monument to Turkish journalist Abdi İpekçi (1929-1979). It was erected on February 1, 2000, near the spot where he was murdered in front of his apartment. İpekçi was a respected journalist and advocate for human rights for minorities in Turkey, separation of religion and state, and dialogue and conciliation with Greece.
The monument was designed by architect Erhan İşözen and contains a sculpture by Gürdal Duyar (1935-2004). It depicts two students, a boy and a girl, holding a bust of İpekçi. The dove on the top of the arch symbolizes peace.
What to See in Teşvikiye
You’ll find more impressive sites along Teşvikiye Street, especially for architecture lovers.
Teşvikiye Mosque
At the heart of Teşvikiye is the Teşvikiye Mosque (Teşvikiye Camii), which was the first structure in the area. It was originally built out of wood in 1794 by Selim III. In 1854, Abdülmecid I had the mosque rebuilt in its current form. One of the most striking features of the mosque are the huge white columns at the entrance.
Turkish novelist and Nobel laureate Orhan Pamuk was taken to the Teşvikiye Mosque as a boy by his family housekeeper. The mosque is often used for the funerals of important figures. Unfortunately, it was closed when I walked by but I was able to peek through the window.
The courtyard of the mosque contains a target stone marking a record set by Mahmud II. There’s also a lovely garden on the side and rear of the building. It’s a great place to sit peacefully and reflect.
The House Café
The House Café on the corner next to the mosque used to function as a public Ottoman fountain. It’s a popular spot for locals to meet over a cup of coffee or a meal.
Teşvikiye Palace
Along Teşvikiye Street is the Teşvikiye Palace (Teşvikiye Palas), which was built by Abdülkadir Bey in the 1930s. It’s an impressive building featuring attractive stone balconies. Notice the stone wall with balconies on the right built to separate it from the building next door.
The wall has an interesting story. A local jeweler, Sait Bey, purchased the plot of land next to Teşvikiye Palace and started construction on a new building right up against the road. Since his building sat back from the road about three meters, Abdülkadir Bey warned Sait Bey that the new building would obstruct the views of Teşvikiye Palace. Despite several official complaints to government authorities, Sait Bey ignored the warnings and continued construction. As payback, Abdülkadir Bey had a thin wall built to block the windows of Sait Bey’s new building.
Narmanlı Apartment
At the southern end of Teşvikiye Street is the Narmanlı Apartment (Narmanlı Apartmanı). It was built in 1932 by Hacı Mustafa Efendi, a fez merchant who escaped Erzurum during Russian occupation. Hacı Mustafa Efendi took the surname Narmanlı, which gives the building its name. Turkish author Ayşe Kulin was born in an apartment on the third floor in 1941.
Ralli Apartment
Across the street is the Ralli Apartment (Ralli Apartmanı), which features both the Art Deco and Art Nouveau styles. It was built probably in the 1930s by the Ralli family, a prominent Greek family dating back to Byzantine times. Turkish artist Fahrünnisa Zeid (1901-1991) opened her first exhibition in her apartment there in 1944.
Hüsrev Gerede Monument
Finally, in the small square in front of the two apartment buildings is a monument to Hüsrev Gerede (1884-1962). He was a friend of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938). Gerede was with Atatürk from the moment he went to Samsun until the end of the Turkish War of Independence. He also participated in the Sivas and Erzurum Congresses where the war strategy was formed. Only two of the four sides of the monument were in good condition when I walked by.
