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Barichara is one of those places you can fall in love with at first sight. This small town about six hours from Bogotá has got to be the most beautiful in all of Colombia.

 

Introduction to Barichara

Breathtaking Barichara, one of Colombia’s Heritage Towns (Pueblos Patrimonio), is a great place to get away from it all. In fact, Barichara means “place of rest” in the indigenous Guane language. This small, quiet town founded on January 25, 1705, has everything you need to unwind.

Barichara is quiet, charming, and every corner is stunning, not to mention the fantastic views. It’s considered by many to be the most beautiful town in all of Colombia. The best part is that this magical place doesn’t attract the amount tourists that more popular towns like Villa de Leyva and Jardín see.


 

Getting to Barichara

Barichara is about a half hour from San Gil, the extreme sports capital of Colombia. If you’re staying in San Gil, you can easily visit on a day trip by taking a bus. The bus should drop you off at the main plaza in town.

 

Getting Around Barichara

Since the town is very small, you can get around on foot. If you’re not keen on walking uphill or on cobblestone streets, you can hire a tuk-tuk in the plaza. They even offer tours lasting about 90 minutes stopping at all the town’s highlights. A positive for tourists is that all interpretive signs are marked in both Spanish and English.

 

Where to Stay in Barichara

There are several charming colonial homes that have been turned into reasonably priced boutique hotels. You’ll also find hostels and luxury options.

 

Casona Said (Permanently Closed)

We stayed at Casona Said, which is a small B&B a few blocks downhill from the plaza. There are only a few rooms, all with modern (but small) bathrooms, comfortable beds, and big closets. Our room was one of two that had a balcony.

Casona Said in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Casona Said
Our room at Casona Said
Our room

The hotel also has a sitting area with a TV, a small pool to cool off during a hot day, and offers breakfast. Staff does a great job making sure you’re happy during your stay.

Casona Said
Casona Said

 

Where to Eat in Barichara

There are plenty of good choices for food in Barichara. You can find everything from traditional Colombian food to pizza and fast food. There are also decent vegetarian options. We had both good and bad luck with the restaurants we tried.


 

Don Juan (Permanently Closed)

Our first lunch in Barichara was at Restaurante Don Juan. It’s a nice place but it’s definitely taking advantage of tourists. The prices on the menu were much higher than we expected, and we felt the quality of the food didn’t match the prices.

Don Juan Restaurant
Don Juan

We steered away from the heavier and higher priced items like steak and fish and ordered a tomato soup and burger. They were underwhelming at best, and we still paid more than two full meals should have cost. Furthermore, service was kind of snotty.

Tomato soup at Don Juan
Tomato soup
Burger at Don Juan in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Burger

 

Ristorante al Cuoco (Permanently Closed)

For dinner that same night, we ate at Restaurante al Cuoco, which is owned by an Italian man who makes his own pasta. It’s located on Parque del Cementerio on the western edge of town. Attracted by the recommendation in Lonely Planet, we thought it would be a nice romantic dinner.

Ristorante al Cuoco in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Ristorante al Cuoco
Patio at Ristorante al Cuoco
Patio

We sat outside on the patio and were greeted by the friendly owner who went over the special dishes for the night. I ordered tagliatelle with homemade Italian sausage while Marisol ordered a spaghetti with octopus and pesto. My meal was fine, but Marisol’s was extremely oily and the octopus was definitely not fresh. She only had a few bites and was vomiting two hours later.

Tagliatelle with Italian sausage at Ristorante al Cuoco in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Tagliatelle with Italian sausage
Spaghetti with octopus at Ristorante al Cuoco
Spaghetti with octopus

We also ordered dessert, sharing a homemade tiramisu and gelato made with parmesan cheese. Both came out frozen.

Tiramisu at Ristorante al Cuoco in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Tiramisu
Gelato with parmesan cheese at Ristorante al Cuoco
Gelato with parmesan cheese

If that’s not enough, our meals were at the table within a few minutes of ordering. If the food was truly fresh, we would have had to wait at least 10-15 minutes for the pasta, sausage, and octopus to be prepared. It’s as if he cooked everything earlier in the day (or maybe before) and heated it up in the microwave. For what we paid, it was terribly overpriced. To top it off, there was an annoying sensor that went off every time someone walked into the restaurant. Our advice is to stay away from this place.

 

D’Comilona

For our second lunch, we wanted a place to watch Argentina play Nigeria in the 2018 World Cup. After walking into a few restaurants, we found one with a TV. It happened to be D’Comilona, which is located just off the main plaza. They serve traditional Colombian food as well as fast food.

D'Comilona
D’Comilona

D’Comilona has a fixed lunch menu at a reasonable price. Marisol had the fixed lunch while I ordered a plate of chorizo. The chorizo was cooked in guarapo (fermented sugar cane juice), much like in nearby Valle de San José. Both of our meals were very good.

Chorizos at D'Comilona
Chorizos

 

Shambala

For our final dinner, we went to Shambala. It’s a fun place with an outgoing owner and is located just off the plaza. They specialize in vegetarian options including stir-fries, wraps, and pastas, but also have ceviche and can add meat to almost any meal.

Shambala in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Shambala
Dining room at Shambala
Dining room

I had an excellent ceviche while Marisol had a vegetable stir-fry with chicken and a mojito. The ceviche was a much bigger portion for what we usually pay for a similar price. We both thought it the best meal we had in Barichara and fairly priced.

Ceviche at Shambala
Ceviche
Stir-fry at Shambala in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Stir-fry


 

Plaza Principal

Plaza Principal is the main plaza and focal point of life in the small town of Barichara. It’s surrounded by several beautiful colonial buildings.

A street along Plaza Principal in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
A street along Plaza Principal
A street along Plaza Principal
A street along Plaza Principal
Colonial buildings
Colonial buildings

Some of the most important buildings in town are on the plaza, including the town hall (Alcaldía), Cultural Center Casa de la Cultura), and Aquileo Parra Technical Institute (Instituto Técnico Aquileo Parra). Other buildings included restaurants and cafés as well as a hotel.

Cultural Center (left) and town hall (right) in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Cultural Center (left) and town hall (right)
Aquileo Parra Technical Institute
Aquileo Parra Technical Institute

The center of the plaza is a great place to beat the heat. It’s got plenty of shade from the tall trees and a fountain in the center.

Plaza Principal
Plaza Principal
Plaza Principal in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Plaza Principal
The center of Plaza Principal in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
The center of the plaza
Fountain at Plaza Principal in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Fountain

Each street connecting to the plaza gives you a look at more whitewashed colonial buildings. From there, it’s easy to get to other parts of Barichara, including uphill to Plazuela de Santa Bárbara and the miradors on the western edge of town.

Looking down a side street in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Looking down a side street
Looking down a side street
Looking down a side street
Side street in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Side street

 

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception

The crown jewel of the plaza is the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception (Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción), which was built in 1848 with stone taken from a local quarry. The sun gives it a different color throughout the day. In the morning it has a yellow tint, while in the afternoon has a touch of orange.

Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception

Inside, you’ll notice an intricate pattern on the floor tiles and wooden beams supporting the ceiling. A small chapel sits to one side.

Nave of the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Nave
Nave of the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception
Nave
Altar of the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Altar
Chapel in the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception
Chapel


 

Chapel of San Antonio

If you walk two blocks south of Plaza Principal, you’ll find a small park with the Chapel of San Antonio (Capilla de San Antonio). It was built in 1823 by Don Narciso Reyes and is only open for mass. The park has trees as well as a sculpture.

Chapel of San Antonio in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Chapel of San Antonio
Small park
Small park

 

Barichara Paper Workshop

The Barichara Paper Workshop (Taller de Paper Barichara) is a small paper factory a couple blocks from the chapel. They make paper out of several different types of plants and is run by the San Lorenzo Foundation (Fundación San Lorenzo). Admission is COP$8,000 per person (as of April 2024). Visitors get a tour of the factory and a demonstration of the paper making process.

Barichara Paper Workshop in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Barichara Paper Workshop

 

Tour of the Barichara Paper Workshop

The tour starts with a demonstration of the paper making process. First, we got to see how the plant fibers are prepared. One step is literally beating them to a pulp against a stone table.

Preparation area at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Preparation area
Beating the fibers to a pulp at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Beating the fibers to a pulp

Next, we were able to use a mold to scoop out fibers and create our own sheet of paper. After removing the frame from the mold, we slapped the gooey fibers onto a piece of cloth.

Using a mold to scoop out the fibers at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Using a mold to scoop out the fibers
Removing the frame at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Removing the frame
A future sheet of paper at the Barichara Paper Workshop
A future sheet of paper

The guide covered the cloth and took it to a press. I turned the press as tight as I could, and the result was a thinned-out piece of paper without any water. The guide took the newly-made paper and hung it on a line to dry before showing us how the finished product would look.

Using the press at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Using the press
After the press at the Barichara Paper Workshop
After the press
On the drying rack at the Barichara Paper Workshop
On the drying rack
Finished product at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Finished product

From there, we watched a group of women creating objects from the paper, and then popped into the gift shop to see some of the crafts they had already made.

Women creating crafts from the paper at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Women creating crafts from the paper
Gift shop at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Gift shop

Finally, we took a walk through the garden behind the building to see some of the plants used to make paper at the factory. In the first section, we saw aloe, papyrus, plantain, and sugarcane.

Aloe at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Aloe
Papyrus at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Papyrus
Plantain (left) and sugarcane (right) at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Plantain (left) and sugarcane (right)

In the second section, we saw pineapples, corn, fique, marijuana, and coca.

Pineapple and other plants at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Pineapple and other plants
Fique at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Fique
Marijuana at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Marijuana
Coca at the Barichara Paper Workshop
Coca

 

Our Thoughts on the Barichara Paper Workshop

Overall, we really enjoyed our short tour at the Barichara Paper Workshop. It was entertaining and informative, and we were happy it was a hands-on experience. It was one of the highlights of our stay in Barichara.


 

Parque del Cementerio

Two blocks north of the paper workshop you’ll find Parque del Cementerio (Cemetery Park). There are some benches under the shade of a few tall trees and a statue of Jesus in the center. You can also get a good view of the cathedral, which is a couple blocks downhill in the main plaza.

Parque del Cementerio
Parque del Cementerio
Parque del Cementerio in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Parque del Cementerio
Statue in Parque del Cementerio
Statue
Looking down towards the cathedral in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Looking down towards the cathedral

 

Chapel of Jesus

The small Chapel of Jesus (Capilla de Jesús) is on the northeast corner of the park. It was built in 1741 out of cut stone and restored in 1998. Unfortunately, it was closed when we walked by.

Chapel of Jesus in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Chapel of Jesus

 

Cemetery

The cemetery sits on the north side of the park. If it’s open, it’s worth taking a moment to walk through. It contains some beautiful headstones. If it’s not open, you can peek through the gates to see them.

Cemetery
Cemetery
Cemetery
Cemetery

 

Parque Mirador Rafael Ortíz Prada

A few steps west is a public park with a small run-down amphitheatre. It’s called Parque Mirador Rafael Ortíz Prada.

Parque Mirador Rafael Ortíz Prada
Parque Mirador Rafael Ortíz Prada
Amphitheatre at Parque Mirador Rafael Ortíz Prada
Amphitheatre


 

Mirador

Barichara sits high on a ridge with spectacular views of the valley below. You can enjoy these views north of the park at the mirador on the western edge of town. This lookout features a bar overlooking the valley. We really enjoyed just sitting and enjoying the views with a beer in hand.

Mirador
Mirador
Mirador
Mirador
View from the mirador in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
View from the mirador
View from the mirador
View from the mirador

 

Small Mirador

Walking north on the road along the ridge, you’ll come to a much simpler mirador. The views are similar to the one with the bar.

Mirador in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Mirador
View from the mirador
View from the mirador

 

Piedra de Bolívar

Finally, near the entrance to the Camino Real, there’s a small monument to Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) called Piedra de Bolívar. It has a bust of Bolívar with the dates he passed through Barichara. The names of famous battles he fought in are etched onto the base. There’s a nice street to look down as well.

Piedra de Bolívar
Piedra de Bolívar
The dates Bolívar passed through town on the Piedra de Bolívar
The dates Bolívar passed through town
Piedra de Bolívar
Piedra de Bolívar
Street next to Piedra de Bolívar
Street next to Piedra de Bolívar

 

Plazuela de Santa Bárbara

Around the corner and just a few blocks uphill from the main plaza in Barichara is Plazuela de Santa Bárbara. It contains a historic chapel and a sculpture of two oxen.

Statue of oxen
Statue of oxen


 

Chapel of Santa Barbara

The focal point of small plaza is the Chapel of Santa Barbara (Capilla de Santa Bárbara). It was built entirely out of yellow stone in the 18th century in the Romanesque style. The chapel has been restored and features a wooden altarpiece. Unfortunately, it was closed when we walked by.

Chapel of Santa Barbara in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Chapel of Santa Barbara
Chapel of Santa Barbara
Chapel of Santa Barbara

 

Jorge Delgado Sierra Park for the Arts

Next door to the chapel is the Jorge Delgado Sierra Park for the Arts (Parque para las Artes Jorge Delgado Sierra). This small park opened in 1988 and is dedicated to local stone carvers. It contains 22 stone sculptures connected by channels of water.

Jorge Delgado Sierra Park for the Arts
Jorge Delgado Sierra Park for the Arts
Jorge Delgado Sierra Park for the Arts
Jorge Delgado Sierra Park for the Arts
Sculpture in the Jorge Delgado Sierra Park for the Arts in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Sculpture
Jorge Delgado Sierra Park for the Arts in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Jorge Delgado Sierra Park for the Arts

There’s also an amphitheater where musical and theatre performances are held, and you can get great views of the valley below town.

Amphitheatre at Jorge Delgado Sierra Park for the Arts
Amphitheatre
View from the Jorge Delgado Sierra Park for the Arts
View from the park

 

Best Views of Barichara

Finally, from the road along Plazuela de Santa Bárbara, you can get the iconic views of Barichara looking down over the rooftops. These views are often reproduced in photographs of the town. The best view is a block from the plazuela towards the western edge of town, which looks down towards the cathedral.

View of the cathedral in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
View of the cathedral
Looking down towards the plaza in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Looking down towards the plaza
Another road leading to the plaza
Another road leading to the plaza

 

Map of Barichara


 

Hiking the Camino Real to Guane

If visiting Barichara, a great activity that will get your blood pumping is to hike the Camino Real to the small village of Guane. It’s a relatively easy 9 kilometer stone path that takes about 2 hours one-way.

The Camino Real is an ancient path built by the indigenous Guane people. It was rebuilt in 1864 by German engineer Geo von Lengerke (1827-1882) and is considered a national monument. The path was rebuilt again in 1996.

 

The Hike

The beginning of the path in Barichara is at the edge of the western side of town near the Piedra de Bolívar. It starts with a steep descent down the ridge. There are some stunning views before crossing the main road for the first time.

Camino Real in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Camino Real
View at the beginning of the Camino Real
View at the beginning of the path
Walking down from Barichara on the Camino Real
Walking down from Barichara
Crossing the road for the first time on the Camino Real
Crossing the road for the first time

The path starts to level off a bit but the scenery stays beautiful. It crosses the road again for the second and final time after about 10 minutes of walking.

Second section of the path on the Camino Real
Second section of the path
Second section of the path on the Camino Real
Second section of the path
Scenery along the Camino Real
Scenery along the path
Crossing the road for the second time on the Camino Real
Crossing the road for the second time

From there, it’s about 60 to 90 minutes before reaching Guane, depending on your pace. There are a couple of fincas along the way selling drinks and ice cream to help cool you down.

Camino Real in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Camino Real
Finca on the Camino Real
Finca
Camino Real in Barichara, Santander, Colombia
Camino Real
Finca on the Camino Real
Finca

Finally, on the last stretch of the path you’ll see Guane appearing in the distance. It’s only a few minutes until you enter the village.

Entering Guane on the Camino Real
Entering Guane
Guane, Santander, Colombia
Guane

 

What to See in Guane

Guane is a tiny village. It’s only a few blocks long. The focal point is the plaza, which is surrounded by colonial buildings. There’s also a clock tower and small archaeological museum that wasn’t open. Local craft shops and restaurants can be found both on the plaza and on the connecting streets. Overall, we found Guane to have very friendly locals. We also enjoyed the local goods, including candy and sabajón, an alcoholic drink made with goat milk and aguardiente.

Plaza in Guane, Santander, Colombia
Plaza
Plaza in Guane, Santander, Colombia
Plaza
Archaeological museum and clock tower in Guane, Santander, Colombia
Archaeological museum and clock tower


 

Chapel of Santa Lucía of Guane

The beautiful Chapel of Santa Lucía of Guane (Capilla Santa Lucía de Guane) is worth popping into. The parish was founded in 1622 when 134 indigenous people including 4 chiefs were baptized. It’s named for an indigenous saint and the current chapel was built in 1786 out of brick.

Chapel of Santa Lucía in Guane, Santander, Colombia
Chapel of Santa Lucía
Nave of the Chapel of Santa Lucía in Guane, Santander, Colombia
Nave
Nave of the Chapel of Santa Lucía in Guane, Santander, Colombia
Nave
Altar of the Chapel of Santa Lucía in Guane, Santander, Colombia
Altar

 

Getting Back to Barichara

To get back to Barichara, most people take the hourly bus that leaves from the plaza in Guane. The ride takes about 20 minutes.

Alternatively, if you don’t want to do the hike, Guane is still well worth visiting. You can take a bus from Barichara’s main plaza.

 

Map of the Camino Real from Barichara to Guane

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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