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Popayán is known throughout Colombia for its whitewashed colonial city center. It’s one of the best-preserved colonial cities in all of Latin America. Homes, government buildings, churches, museums, and shops are all painted white.
Popayán used to be an important stop on the road from Lima and Quito to Cartagena and it has done a wonderful job of preserving its past. Many of the buildings were destroyed or severely damaged in a 1983 earthquake and it took over 10 years to rebuild most of them.
Parque Caldas
Other than the beautiful colonial churches and interesting museums, the “White City” can be a rewarding place to walk through. The focal point of the historic city center is Parque Caldas. This huge plaza is home to the cathedral, government buildings, and a nice clock tower.
In the center are tall trees and a monument to Francisco José de Caldas, a national hero of Colombia originally from Popayán. Street vendors are scattered throughout.
Pantheon of the Nobles
Just north of the plaza is the Pantheon of the Nobles (Panteón de los Próceres). Several important sons of Popayán are buried inside, including Caldas and José Hilario López, the signer of the declaration ending slavery in Colombia in 1851. Tickets are COP$10,000 for adults and COP$5,000 for children and include admission to the Natural History Museum and Mosquera House Museum (as of September 2024). It’s open daily except Mondays.
Guillermo Valencia Municipal Theatre
On the next corner is Guillermo Valencia Municipal Theatre (Teatro Municipal Guillermo Valencia), which opened in 1927. The rooftop is adorned with eight of the nine muses of Greek mythology (missing is Calliope). We asked to look inside but were denied, although it seems there are guided visits throughout the week.
Humilladero Bridge
The Humilladero Bridge (Puente del Humilladero) is an arched bridge on the northern boundary of historic Popayán. It was built around 1860 to allow easier access to the city center from the north. It has 11 arches and is 240m long.
Bridge of Safekeeping
Next to the Humilladero Bridge is the tiny Bridge of Safekeeping (Puente de la Custodia). It’s the original bridge built in 1713 to allow priests to attend to the sick in the poorer northern suburbs.
Tulcán Hill
For great views of Popayán, head to Tulcán Hill (El Morro de Tulcán). This grass-covered hill is thought to be a pyramid built in pre-Columbian times. Legend says it’s filled with gold and riches. The hill is topped with an equestrian statue of Sebastián de Belalcázar, a conquistador the founder of Popayán in 1537.
Rincón Payanés
Finally, next to Tulcán Hill is a miniature version of Popayán, Rincón Payanés. This is a place to buy local arts and crafts. There were only a couple shops open at the time we visited and it wasn’t very interesting. It’s better to walk around the actual city.
