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Main Plaza sits at the heart of San Antonio, Texas. It’s the historic center of the city and has been transformed into a vibrant outdoor cultural center.
History
In 1730, the Spaniards laid out Plaza de las Islas around the small church serving the village of San Fernando de Bexar, which later became San Antonio. Government buildings, stores, and homes were all built around the plaza and surrounding streets. Religious festivals, political rallies, parades, and other important events all took place there.
As the city center shifted elsewhere in the late 19th century, Plaza de las Islas lost importance. The plaza itself shrank in size with the widening and paving of roads in the 1880s. The center was filled in with grass, effectively transforming the plaza into a park.
In 2006, the city received public and private investments aimed at revitalizing the space and regaining its former character. The plaza was repaved and fountains were installed. It became Main Plaza, a relaxed setting full of outdoor cafés where people could meet and public events could be held. The grand opening took place on April 13, 2008.
San Fernando Cathedral
The most important building on Main Plaza is the San Fernando Cathedral, which is covered in another entry. It’s the oldest cathedral in Texas and one of the oldest in the United States. It was originally built between 1738 and 1750.
Municipal Plaza Building
The skyscraper next to the cathedral is the Municipal Plaza Building. It’s 12 stories high and was built in 1922 to house the Frost National Bank. It features a three story high lobby with an Italian marble staircase and Tiffany electrical fixtures. The bank moved out in 1973 and the lobby was occupied by Luby’s Cafeteria from 1975 to 1989. The city purchased the building in 1989 and moved the City Council Chamber to the lobby in 1992. The building was renamed as the Municipal Plaza Building in April 1994.
Bexar County Courthouse
On the south side of Main Plaza is the imposing Bexar County Courthouse. It was built between 1891 and 1896 in the Romanesque Revival style. The architect was James Riely Gordon (1863-1937).
Spanish Governor’s Palace
A block west of Main Plaza and across from City Hall is the Spanish Governor’s Palace. It was planned as early as 1722 and completed in 1749. The building is the last remaining part of the Presidio San Antonio de Béxar complex, which was founded on May 5, 1718, by Spanish governor Martín de Alarcón to protect Spanish interests and missions in the area.
The Spanish Governor’s Palace was originally the home of the presidio captain and later housed Spanish governors living in San Antonio. It also served as the capitol building of Spanish Texas from 1772 to 1821. The keystone above the entrance contains the coat of arms of King Ferdinand VI of Spain as well as the year 1749.
The City of San Antonio purchased the property in 1928 and completed restoration in 1930. Today, it’s open to the public as a museum. It’s open daily except Mondays and adult admission is US$5 (as of April 2024). Unfortunately, it was closing at the time I tried to visit.
O. Henry House
Finally, a couple blocks west of the Spanish Governor’s Palace is the O. Henry House. This tiny two-room adobe brick house was originally built by John Kush, a German settler, in 1855. William Sydney Porter (1862-1910), better known as O. Henry, lived in the house in 1885, renting it for US$6 a month.
After being saved from demolition in 1959, it was moved from its original location by the San Antonio Conservation Society. It was transported again to another location in 1998, restored, and opened as a museum in 1999. The house moved yet again in November 2023 to its current location at 702 Dolorosa. It contains period furniture and items related to Porter’s life. Since the most recent move, the future of the O. Henry House Museum has not yet been determined (as of April 2024).
