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Big Bend National Park is one of the largest and most remote parks in the United States. It’s located in West Texas and shares about 118 miles of borderlands with Mexico. It was named after a large bend in the Rio Grande and is the largest protected area of the Chihuahuan Desert in the country.
I spent two full days at Big Bend and could have spent at least two more. We were able to do almost all of the hikes we had planned but would have liked the chance to do some longer, more strenuous ones, as well as see more inaccessible parts of the park on the many miles unpaved roads.
When to Visit
Due to an unprecedented increase in visitors since 2016, it’s wise to plan ahead to fully enjoy Big Bend National Park. High season is October through April and all holiday weekends. During these times, expect campgrounds to be full every night (including primitive backcountry sites), and parking to be extremely limited. Try visiting the park outside peak season to enjoy the remote tranquility it’s known for. If your visit falls within peak season, consider staying in a campground or hotel outside the park.
Entrance Fees
The entrance fee to Big Bend is US$30 per vehicle (as of March 2024) and is good for seven days. It’s covered by all of the interagency passes. Backcountry permits are an additional US$10 per night (as of March 2024). The park is open year-round.
Visitor Centers
There are five visitor centers at Big Bend National Park. First is the Panther Junction Visitor Center. It’s located in the center of the park and is open year-round. There are exhibits on the geology, natural, and cultural histories of park as well as a water bottle station, restrooms, book store, and post office. A short park orientation movie can be seen upon request, and it’s possible to pay entrance fees and get backcountry and river use permits there.
The Chisos Basin Visitor Center is in the Chisos Basin area and is open year-round. It contains exhibits on the flora and fauna found in the Chisos Mountains. There’s a water bottle station, restrooms, and book store. You can pay entrance fees there as well as get backcountry and river use permits.
The Castolon Visitor Center is located in the Castolon Historic District along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive and is open seasonally from November through April. It’s housed in the historic Officer’s Quarters building and contains a bookstore and restrooms. You can pay entrance fees and get river use permits there.
The Rio Grande Village Visitor Center is located on the far east side of the park at Rio Grande Village. It’s open seasonally from November through April and contains exhibits on the Rio Grande. River use permits are available there.
Finally, the Persimmon Gap Visitor Center is located at the far north entrance to the park. It has exhibits, a book store, mini-theatre, and restrooms. You can pay entrance fees and get river use permits there. It’s open seasonally from November through April.
Camping
There are three developed campgrounds at Big Bend National Park. All campsites cost US$16 per night (as of March 2023) and reservations are required. Reservations can be made up to six months in advance. Because all of the campsites at Big Bend were completely booked well in advance of our trip, we camped at one of the many campgrounds outside the park, just a short drive from the western entrance.
The Chisos Basin Campground has 56 sites with views of Casa Grande and Emory Peak, as well as spectacular sunsets through the Window. There are flush toilets and the campground is open year-round.
The Cottonwood Campground is near the Castolon Historic District. There are 22 sites with vault toilets and it’s open year-round.
The Rio Grande Village Campground has 93 sites set in a grove of cottonwood and acacia trees. There are flush toilets and picnic tables, and it’s open year-round. There’s also an RV campground at Rio Grande Village, containing 25 RV sites with full hook-ups. They cost US$36 for double occupancy with an extra US$3 per person fee (as of March 2024).
In addition to the developed campgrounds, there are 64 primitive backcountry campsites available. A backcountry permit is required to camp at these sites. 34 sites are reservable up to six months in advance and are usually fully booked throughout the year. The other 30 sites are available in person 24 hours in advance of your stay, and are also typically fully booked throughout the year. Campfires and generators are prohibited at these sites.
Chisos Mountains Lodge
Chisos Mountains Lodge is the only lodge at the park, and is located in the Chisos Basin. It has a variety of rooms and cottages and features a full-service restaurant.
Activities
Hiking, river rafting, stargazing, scenic drives, photography, biking, horseback riding, fishing, and other outdoor activities are available. Check the official website for more information on these activities. Information about ranger guided programs can also be found online.
Safety
My only advice is to take plenty of water – at least a liter of water for each hour of hiking. The desert heat and dry climate can be brutal, especially at mid-day, and can sap a lot of energy. Fill up your water bottles at the visitor centers and make sure you have some snacks. Also use sunscreen or wear clothing to protect yourself from the sun. Please remember that dogs and other pets are not allowed on any trails at Big Bend National Park.
Parking
Parking is extremely limited in many areas of Big Bend National Park. To avoid traffic and parking problems, especially during high season, start your day as early as possible and have alternative plans.
Border Merchants
While visiting the Boquillas Overlook near Rio Grande Village, we noticed a stone filled with crafts with a jar and a note below. The crafts were made by villagers from Boquillas del Carmen and brought across the river to sell to park visitors. The note indicated they were being sold to raise funds for a new roof on the school.
This highlights the problem of illegal border crossings made by merchants. Park officials state that buying anything from border merchants encourages illegal crossings. If caught, the merchants can be arrested and deported through Presidio 100 miles away, and possibly incarcerated and fined. It also contributes to the damage of natural resources when merchants cut trails, cut down desert plants and river cane, and leave garbage behind.
Furthermore, items purchased via illegal border crossings are considered contraband and will be confiscated by officers. Authentic Mexican crafts can legally be purchased across the border in Boquillas del Carmen or at park stores. This way, you know all proceeds will go directly to the artisans.
