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If Chicago were a human heart, the Chicago River would be the aorta. There would be no Chicago without river, and the river wouldn’t be the same without Chicago.
Introduction to the Chicago River
The Chicago River is an entire system of rivers and canals running through the city. They have a combined length of 156 miles (251 kilometers) and link the Great Lakes to the Mississippi River Basin. In the city, the North and South Branches of the river converge at Wolf Point, forming the Main Stem. The Main Stem used to flow into Lake Michigan.
Today, the Chicago River provides some of the most beautiful urban scenery in the entire country. The most popular section is the Main Stem, which flows between the Loop and the Near North Side. It’s definitely a place that cannot be missed when visiting Chicago.
In this post, I’ll cover some of the bridges and features along both sides of the Main Stem of the Chicago River. From there, we’ll get onto the river for an architecture cruise to admire the incredible buildings along the Main Stem and a little bit along the South Branch.
Reversing the Flow of the Chicago River
The Chicago River an engineering wonder in itself. Why? I mentioned above that the river “used to flow into Lake Michigan” but that’s no longer the case!
In the 19th century, raw sewage and industrial waste flowing into the lake, which is the city’s source of drinking water, would cause serious outbreaks of typhoid fever and other health issues. In 1887, authority figures decided to reverse the flow of the river to prevent contamination. The project was completed in 1900 by the Chicago Sanitary District (now the Metropolitan Water Reclamation District) using a series of locks.
Isn’t It Always Green?
The Chicago River flows in tribute to those of Irish heritage every March. It’s traditionally dyed green in honor of St. Patrick’s Day, but Chicagoans often joke that it’s always green and there’s no need to dye it. I agree.
Bridges over the Chicago River
There are 10 bridges that cross the Main Stem of the Chicago River before it forks at Wolf Point to the North and South Branches. There are 38 bridges in total. These bridges are movable and open twice a week to allow boats to pass through. Several types of bridge construction techniques are used and the style of the bridges adds to the scenery along the river.
Michigan Avenue Bridge
The Michigan Avenue Bridge (officially the DuSable Bridge), built in 1920, is one of the most famous bridges over the river. It was the first double decker trunnion bascule bridge in the world and allows for traffic to pass on upper and lower levels.
There are four bridgehouses, one on each corner, and each features a relief sculpture representing important moments in Chicago history. A few plaques along the span of the bridge commemorate historic events, such as the one below depicting French explorer Robert de La Salle (1643-168) passing through the area in December 1681.
McCormick Bridgehouse and Chicago River Museum
The southwest bridgehouse contains the McCormick Bridgehouse and Chicago River Museum. Museum admission is “pay-what-you-can” with a suggested donation (as of July 2024). It’s typically open 10am to 5pm from Wednesday through Sunday, May through October.
The museum allows visitors to see the mechanical room and the gears that raise the bridge. Every floor of the bridgehouse has exhibits about the history of the river, how the flow was reversed, and its importance to Chicago. From the top floor there are fantastic views in each direction.
Chicago Riverwalk
The Chicago Riverwalk is a pedestrian path along the south bank of the Chicago River. It features places to sit, restaurants, boat launches, and other recreational activities, along with incredible views of the buildings towering above.
The Chicago Riverwalk runs between Lake Street all the way to DuSable Harbor on Lake Michigan. It’s one of the things that makes Chicago a special place in the summer, especially on perfect sunny days.
Heald Square Monument
The Heald Square Monument sits along the Riverwalk at Wabash and Wacker. It depicts George Washington with the two principal financiers of the American Revolution, Robert Morris (1734-1806) and Haym Salomon (1740-1785). It was designed by Lorado Taft (1860-1936) and built between 1936 and 1941 by his associates Leonard Crunelle (1872-1944), Nellie Walker (1874-1973), and Fred Torrey (1884-1967). The monument was dedicated in 1941.
Vietnam Veterans Memorial
Down the stairs from Heald Square is the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, which was dedicated on November 11, 2005, in Wabash Plaza. It features a stone wall inscribed with the names of those who died during the Vietnam War. The centerpiece sculpture was created by Gary Tillery, a sculptor and himself a Vietnam veteran.
Wacker Drive
Wacker Drive, which runs along the south bank of the Main Stem and along the South Branch, is another engineering marvel. It’s a double-decker road with an upper level meant for local traffic and a lower level meant for through-traffic and delivery trucks. Wacker Drive is named for Charles H. Wacker (1856-1929), the chairman of the Chicago Plan Commission who recommended the idea. You can see a part of the street with both levels exposed just above a section of the Riverwalk.
River Esplanade
The River Esplanade runs along the north bank of the Main Stem. It follows the Chicago River from Michigan Avenue to near Lake Shore Drive. The path provides another pleasant experience and of course more spectacular views of the city. It’s open daily from 6am to 11pm.
The River Esplanade isn’t nearly as crowded as the Riverwalk and it gives a completely different perspective of the city. It also contains plenty of great spots to sit and enjoy the scenery as well as a couple very small parks.
Centennial Fountain
Centennial Fountain is the main feature along the River Esplanade. It sits to the east of Columbus Drive at McClurg Court and was designed by architect Dirk Lohan. The fountain was dedicated in 1989 to honor the 100th anniversary of the Metropolitan Water Reclamation District of Greater Chicago, which is best known for reversing the flow of the Chicago River in 1900. It’s officially named for Nicholas J. Melas (d. 2013), who sat on its board for 30 years. During the summer, the Centennial Fountain shoots an 80-foot arc of water over the river every hour on the hour for 10 minutes, from 8am to 11pm. (Note: the fountain went dry in 2020 and is currently being repaired. It’s expected to reopen in 2025 (as of July 2024)).
Architecture Cruises on the Chicago River
Taking an architecture cruise with one of Chicago’s cruise companies is a great way to experience the river and learn more about the buildings towering over it. Chicago’s First Lady docks along the Riverwalk at the Michigan Avenue Bridge, Wendella is at the Wrigley Building, and Seadog is at Navy Pier. They typically run from April to November. For the more adventurous, it’s also possible to kayak. Urban Kayaks, Wateriders, and Kayak Chicago offer kayaking excursions.
Wendella Architecture Tour on the Chicago River
I’ve done the Wendella tour twice and enjoyed it very much. They have three architecture tours: a family-friendly 45-minute Chicago River tour (US$28 for adults and US$13 for kids age 4-12), a 90-minute Chicago River tour (US$44 for adults and US$20 for kids age 4-12), and a 90-minute Lake and River tour (US$44 for adults and US$20 for kids age 4-12). All prices are current as of July 2024.
The guides at Wendella are extremely knowledgable and entertaining, and I’ve learned something different each time. I recommend taking the tour that goes through the locks and onto Lake Michigan. You’ll get to experience the locks and get some spectacular views of the city.
Architecture Along the Chicago River
Along both sides of the Chicago River are some of the most fascinating architectural projects in the city. I’ll point out a few of the buildings moving from east to west along the main stem, and then down the south branch of the river.
St. Regis Chicago
First is the St. Regis Chicago. Formerly the Wanda Vista Tower, construction on the St. Regis began in August 2016. It was designed by Jeanne Gang and became the city’s third tallest building upon completion in 2020. The building stands 101 stories high and is the tallest structure in the world designed by a woman (as of July 2024).
London Guarantee Building
The London Guarantee Building is southwest of the Michigan Avenue Bridge. It was completed in 1923 by architect Alfred Alschuler (1876-1940) for the London Guarantee & Accident Company. The building is crowned with a structure resembling the Choragic Monument of Lysicrates in Athens, Greece, but it was actually modeled after the Stockholm Stadshus in Sweden.
The London Guarantee Building hosted the London House, a famous jazz club, from the 1950s to early 1970s. It was also the home of WLS (AM) Radio from the 1960s to the 1980s. Paul Harvey (1918-2009) performed his nationally syndicated show from the fourth floor studios. On May 26, 2016, the building reopened as the LondonHouse Chicago Hotel.
The London Guarantee Building partially sits on the site of Fort Dearborn, which is commemorated by a plaque above the entrance. The fort was originally built in 1803 and slowly disappeared over the years due to many factors. The last pieces were destroyed in the 1871 Great Chicago Fire but markers in the sidewalks outline the boundaries of the original fort. The site was occupied by the Hoyt Building from 1872 to 1921.
Mather Tower
The thin skyscraper to the west of the London Guarantee Building is the Mather Tower. When it was completed in 1928, it was the tallest building in Chicago. It’s got the smallest footprint of any skyscraper in the city at just 100 x 65 feet. It’s also got an unusual design with a 21-story octagonal tower sitting on top of a 20-story conventional box tower. It was built for the Mather Stock Car Company, which made train cars, and designed by Herbert Hugh Riddle (1875–1939). Today, the lower tower is occupied by the River Hotel.
Trump International Hotel and Tower
Across the river is the Trump International Hotel and Tower. It’s a 98-story hotel and private residence completed in 2009. It sits on the site previously occupied by the Chicago Sun-Times Building. The architect, Adrian Smith, also designed both the Burj Khalifa and the Jeddah Tower.
The skyscraper was the second tallest building in the country and seventh tallest in the world when it topped out in 2009. It was also the building with the highest residence in the world until the completion of the Burj Khalifa. It features 2.6 million square feet (240,000 square meters ) of floor space, 486 luxury residential condominiums, 339 guest rooms in the hotel, and retail space.
For great views of the river and surrounding architecture, head up to the 16th floor terrace to the aptly named Sixteen (permanently closed in April 2018). Tables are on a first come first served basis and the terrace is open daily from 2pm to midnight, weather permitting. Service was a little slow but the servers are outstanding. Food at drinks are not cheap. The restaurant is a two star Michelin rated restaurant. (NOTE: Terrace 16 now occupies the space.)
Jeweler’s Building
Across Wacker Drive from Heald Square is the Jeweler’s Building, also known as 35 E. Wacker. It was built between 1925 and 1927 by architects Frederick Dinkelberg (1858-1935) and Joachim Giæver (1856-1925). Upon completion, the 40-story building was the tallest in the world outside New York City. The dome once held the Stratosphere Club, which opened in 1937 and has been falsely attributed to Al Capone as a speakeasy.
The Jeweler’s Building was built with an interesting feature to protect jewel traders. For the first 14 years of its use, the lower 23 floors each had a private parking garage. Jewelers concerned with their safety would drive into an elevator and were lifted to their floors.
Marina City
Marina City, on the north bank along Dearborn and State, are twin 65-story towers shaped like ears of corn. They were designed by Bertrand Goldberg (1913-1997) and opened in 1967. The buildings were meant to be a city within a city, and contain several features including restaurants, shops, a gym, a theatre, laundry facilities, a bowling alley, and a marina. The first 19 floors are a parking garage. The units were originally used as rental apartments but were converted into condos in 1977. In addition, the structures run solely on electricity, with gas playing no part in the functioning of the building. When the towers opened, they were the both tallest residential buildings and the tallest reinforced concrete buildings in the world.
77 W. Wacker Dr.
77 W. Wacker Dr., formerly the United Building and R.R. Donnelly Building, was built in 1992 and added a modern touch to the Chicago River skyline when it was completed. The top floor of the 50-story building is shaped like a Greek pediment. The building was designed by Ricardo Bofill Taller de Arquitectura (RBTA).
Merchandise Mart
Across the river, the massive structure of the Merchandise Mart might not be a tall building but it’s sheer volume commands respect. It was built in 1930 for Marshall Field’s and has 4 million square feet of floor space. When it opened, the Merchandise Mart was the world’s largest commercial building by volume. It held that title until it was surpassed by the Pentagon in 1943. The building was designed by Alfred Shaw (1895-1970).
333 W. Wacker Dr.
Back across the river is 333 W. Wacker Dr., a 36-story building completed in 1983. It features a curved glass façade that changes shades of green depending on the sun. It was designed by architectural firm Kohn Pedersen Fox and was voted “Favorite Building” by Chicago Tribune readers in 1995. 333 W. Wacker was featured in Ferris Bueller’s Day Off as the building containing Ferris’ father’s office.
A small historical fact – the building next to 333 W. Wacker, 191 N. Wacker, was the location of the 1860 Republican National Convention. In the Wigwam, built specifically for the convention, Abraham Lincoln won the nomination (although he remained downstate in Springfield during the convention).
150 North Riverside
150 North Riverside is a 53-story building completed in 2017. It’s not the glass exterior that draws your attention, but the cantilevered base. The first eight stories of the building have a smaller base than the rest. It won numerous awards for its design.
Civic Opera Building
Finally, there’s the Civic Opera Building, which is the second largest opera house in North America. It was funded by Samuel Insull (1859-1938), a utility magnate. The building lost a tremendous amount of money because it opened on November 4, 1929, shortly after the 1929 stock market crash, which was followed by the Great Depression.
