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Getsemaní is a historic neighborhood just outside the Old Town of Cartagena. It’s a popular place for tourists to stay and has a few minor attractions. It’s also part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing of Cartagena.
Introduction to Getsemaní
In the past, Getsemaní had a reputation of being seedy and dangerous, but that’s no longer the case. Now that it’s on the tourist path, it’s a popular place to stay with good hotels, and there are several good bars and restaurants as well. I like to stay in Getsemaní and find it to be a lively and friendly place. Parts of it are still a bit run down but that doesn’t change the experience. It’s also a great place to be at night when the streets come to life.
Historically, during the Spanish colonial period, servants catering to the upper class as well as freed slaves lived in Getsemaní. It evolved to become a multiethnic neighborhood with residents of African, Spanish, Middle Eastern, Jewish descent, but gentrification means very few of the original inhabitants remain.
The attraction in Getsemaní is the local culture and authentic atmosphere. Wandering through the streets both during the day and at night is rewarding. Much like the historic Old Town, there are several colorful buildings, some restored and others dilapidated. There’s also a good collection of street art and murals.
Plaza de la Trinidad
Plaza de la Trinidad is at the heart of Getsemaní. In the center is a small monument to the independence of Cartagena, which took place on the plaza on November 11, 1811.
While it’s quiet during the day, the plaza springs to life after dark. There are often several people sitting on the wall watching kids play football while street vendors sell street meat and fresh juice. Sometimes dance performances break out and street performers entertain visitors. The restaurants situated around the plaza are full of people seated on the sidewalk. It’s a great scene to be a part of.
Church of the Holy Trinity
The most important building on Plaza de la Trinidad is the Church of the Holy Trinity (Iglesia de la Santísima Trinidad). It’s the biggest church in Getsemaní and dates back to 1600.
The church doesn’t look very big from the outside but it has a cavernous interior. It has a central nave and two aisles separated by columns. The altarpiece represents Purgatory and features a figure of Archangel Michael. It was repainted in 1868 by Pedro Tiburcio Ortíz Alaix.
Plazuela del Pozo
This small but scenic plaza is surrounded by a few restaurants and colorful buildings. It’s just a block from Plaza de la Trinidad and takes its name from the well in the center. There are also some fun sculptures by Colombian artist Edgardo Carmona located there.
Café Havana
A block north of Plaza de la Trinidad is the world-famous Café Havana. This live salsa venue has some of the best nightlife in the entire city and is a favorite of both locals and tourists. It can get packed and sweaty but is a great place to show off your salsa skills.
Centennial Park
On the north side of Getsemaní is Centennial Park (Parque del Centenario). It’s a large city park with several tall trees, a monument, and some fountains. It’s nice to walk through on the way to the Old Town.
Centennial Park opened on November 11, 1911, to commemorate the centennial of Colombia’s independence from Spain. The park was designed by Pedro Malabet and built under the direction of Luis Felipe Jaspe Franco. Surprisingly, the park is unfinished.
Cartagena and Colón Theatres
Two historic theaters sit next to each other south of Centennial Park facing Puerta del Reloj in Old Town. The Cartagena Theatre (Teatro Cartagena), which opened in 1940, and Colón Theatre (Teatro Colón), which opened in 1938, haven’t been used in ages, but you can tell they were once very grand places. Both theaters sit on the site of the former Chapel of the Veracruz (Capilla de la Veracruz) and Convent of San Francisco (Convento de San Francisco), which was the first convent in Cartagena.
As of June 2024, the theaters and a handful of other buildings in the vicinity were under restoration to become the Hotel San Francisco. It will be a luxury hotel operated by the Four Seasons chain.
Church of the Third Order
A few steps south is the Church of the Third Order (Iglesia de la Tercera Orden). It was built between 1730 and 1735 as part of the Convent of San Francisco. Spanish military engineer Juan Bautista Mac-Evan (d. 1751), who repaired Fort San Sebastián del Pastelillo in Cartagena and designed fortifications in Portobelo, Panama, is buried inside. If the church is open, it’s worth checking out.
Hermitage of San Roque
On the east side of Getsemaní is the Hermitage of San Roque (Ermita de San Roque), which was built between 1654 and 1674. The complex included a hospital, which was meant to control a plague that swept through the city in the mid-17th century.
Walls of Getsemaní
The eastern side of Getsemaní contains a section of the historic city walls that visitors can walk on. There are great views of Castillo San Felipe and La Popa from the walls.
Graffiti and Street Art in Getsemaní
Finally, Getsemaní is a great place to admire graffiti art. You can find murals on many streets, especially on the streets around Plaza de la Trinidad including Calle de la Sierpe. Unfortunately, some of the murals I really love have faded away.
Callejón Angosto
Callejón Angosto is a very narrow alley filled with umbrellas, graffiti, and other art. It’s a project funded by locals living along the street and has become one of the most visited parts of Getsemaní. At the east end of the alley are a few more impressive murals.