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In the Fener neighborhood of Istanbul, up a steep hill from the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople, sits the Phanar Greek Orthodox College. Some call this regal red brick building the Red Castle. Others call it the Big Red School. To Greeks, it’s a symbol of a legacy they left on the city and the Ottoman Empire.
History
The Phanar Greek Orthodox College, which is called the Great School of the Nation (Μεγάλη του Γένους Σχολή) in Greek, was founded in 1454, just after the Fall of Constantinople. Patriarch Gennadios II appointed Matthaios Kamariotis, a scholar from Thessaloniki, as the first director. The Phanar Greek Orthodox College was and still is the most prestigious Greek school in Istanbul.
Fener, or Phanar in Greek, became the Greek district of Constantinople after 1453. It was here that the richest Greeks built their mansions and businesses in close proximity to the Ecumenical Patriarchate. Several of the most prominent Phanariotes (wealthy Greeks), many of noble Byzantine lineage, received their education at the school.
The school is still open, but because of a dwindling Greek population due to persecution, deportation, flight, and other factors, there’s only a handful of students and teachers. Regardless of these issues, it’s still looked upon with prestige and pride by the remaining community and Greeks around the world.
Architecture
The cornerstone of the building was laid on January 30, 1880, by Patriarch Joachim III. It was finished in 1883. The architect was Konstantinos Dimadis and the building was funded by Georgios Zariphis, an Ottoman Greek banker. It’s a massive structure with very high ceilings and a dome that functions as an astronomical observatory. In my opinion, it’s the most beautiful modern secular building in all of Istanbul.
Visiting the School
Several times in the past, I had walked by the school and had never seen or heard a soul in the yard or anywhere near the entrance. I never thought I would have the chance to visit without special advance permission, but this was my lucky day.
I heard several children screaming and running out as classes finished for the day. As one of them ran outside, he held the door for me as if to invite me inside. I thanked him and walked up the stairs to the grand entrance. After a quick introduction to the groundskeeper and then a school official inside, I was allowed to walk around on the ground level to take photos.
I was in awe of being able to walk around inside and visit a building that played such an integral role in the history of Ottoman Greeks. I’ll let the rest of the photos speak for themselves.
Lobby
Hallways
Classrooms