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Detinets Park is the oldest part of Chernihiv. It was the location of ancient Chernihiv, founded around 700. The park is part of the Ancient Chernihiv National Architectural and Historical Reserve, and contains several historic buildings and monuments. It’s also a nice place to relax and have an ice cream while sitting under the shade of the trees.
Collegium
In the center of the park, there are two religious buildings that have been converted into museums. The first building I came to is the Collegium. Once the residence of the Archbishop of Chernihiv, it now houses a museum of Ukrainian iconography. Admission is ₴40 (as of April 2022).
In front of the Collegium is a monument to Ivan Mazepa, the Hetman of Zaporizhian Host from 1689 to 1708. A hetmanate was equivalent to the head of state.
Saints Boris and Gleb Cathedral
Next is Saints Boris and Gleb Cathedral. It was built in 1120 and also houses a small museum. The church was founded by Prince David, a grandson of Yaroslav the Wise. A statue of Igor II, a Grand Prince of Kyiv and saint in the Orthodox Church, sits behind the cathedral. Admission is ₴30 or ₴50 with a local guide (as of April 2022).
The two museums are not worth the price of admission. It’s better to admire the buildings from the outside and save your money. I also found one of the old ladies at the door to be very rude when she realized I didn’t understand Ukrainian or Russian.
Transfiguration Cathedral
Transfiguration Cathedral, a functioning church built in 1033, sits in the center of the park near the first two buildings. It’s apparently the oldest church in the Ukraine. Prince Mstislav of Chernihiv (d. 1035) is buried inside.
Other Buildings
Other buildings in the park include the Chernihiv State Archives, the Tarnovsky Chernihiv Regional History Museum, and the Chernihiv Regional Art Museum. I didn’t visit either of the museums.
Promenade
The southern end of the park features a promenade lined with cannons and some great views of the countryside and the Desna River. There’s also a monument to Ukrainian writer Taras Shevchenko.
St. Catherine’s Church
Across from the park is St. Catherine’s Church, which was built in 1715. It was constructed in honor of the bravery of the Chernihiv regiment of Cossacks during the storming of the Ottoman fortress of Azov. The Soviets used the building as a museum.
Monument to the Fighters for Freedom and Independence of the Ukraine
Near the church is the Monument to the Fighters for Freedom and Independence of the Ukraine. The flowered Heroes’ Alley leads from the church into central Chernihiv.
