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Want to get off the beaten path in Istanbul? A good option is Kumkapı. This neighborhood on the shores of the Marmara Sea isn’t usually on the tourist radar. There are no big name attractions, but it’s nice to explore for a couple hours.
Kumkapı is a neighborhood just steps away from the historic old city at Sultanahmet and the Grand Bazaar, but it’s a world apart. The run-down Ottoman buildings and clotheslines strewn from window to window high above the street will give you a much different feeling than the touristy Sultanahmet. It will give you a glimpse into everyday life in Istanbul.
Kumkapı was traditionally home to a large Armenian community and a sizable population of Greeks. The Greeks still call the area Kontoskálion (Κοντοσκάλιον), and there are Armenian and Greek churches scattered throughout the neighborhood.
Armenian Patriarchate
The most important site in the neighborhood is the Armenian Patriarchate of Constantinople (Պատրիարքութիւն Հայոց Կոստանդնուպոլսոյ / Badriark’ut’iun Hayots’ Gosdantnubolsoy / İstanbul Ermeni Patrikhanesi), founded in 1461. It’s the worldwide seat of the Armenian Apostolic Church, a branch of Oriental Orthodoxy.
Surp Asdvadzadzin Armenian Patriarchal Church (Aziz Meryem Ana Patriklik Kilisesi) sits across the street behind high stone walls. The bell tower of the church is visible from the street. Unfortunately, it was closed during my visit.
Bezciyan Armenian School
The large building next door to the Patriarchal Church is the Bezciyan Armenian School (Bezciyan Ermeni İlköğretim Okulu). It was founded in 1830 by Harutyun Bezciyan (1771-1834), an Ottoman Armenian merchant. He was the personal financial and economic adviser to Sultan Mahmud II and the manager of the Ottoman mint. The school operates as a primary school with eight grades.
Panagia Elpida Greek Orthodox Church
Two important Greek Orthodox churches are located in Kumkapı. First is Panagia Elpida (Παναγία Ἐλπίδα), which sits behind a high concrete wall topped with barbed wire. The original church was built in the 16th century, but it burned down in 1680 and was rebuilt with the help of Russian ambassador at the time, Nikita Alexievich. The church burned down again in 1719 and 1762, and was rebuilt both times.
A fourth fire consumed the church in August 1865. For thirty years, the congregation met in a timber structure built within the church grounds. Finally, the cornerstone was laid for the current church on January 4, 1895. It’s considered one of the most beautiful churches in the city, but badly needs restoration.
Agia Kyriaki Greek Orthodox Church
The second church is Agia Kyriaki (Αγία Κυριακή), which is near Kadırga. It’s arguably the most beautiful of all the Greek churches in Istanbul. The church dates back to at least 1583, when the first recorded reference was made by a representative of the Russian czar who visited it that year.
The church was built in the late 19th century by Ottoman Green architect Pericles Photiades. It’s in fairly good condition, and contains a holy spring dedicated to Saint Basil (Αγίασμα Αγίου Βασιλείου). Nowadays, the congregation is mostly made up of Georgian, Romanian, and Ukrainian immigrants living in the neighborhood.
Architecture
Along the streets, you’ll also encounter lots of old Ottoman Greek buildings. Many of the magnificent stone structures are not well-maintained and are crumbling away with time. Others have been restored to their past glory.
Kumkapı Square
When tourists visit the neighborhood, they usually only see Kumkapı Square (Kumkapı Meydanı). This square is home to several fish restaurants that come alive at night with a fantastic atmosphere.
Almost every street surrounding the square is lined with these fish restaurants. Many outdoor tables are tightly packed together along the street. The tables are neatly dressed during the day for the majority of customers visiting in the evenings.
One word of warning – these fish restaurants have been notorious in the past for ripping people off, both foreigners and Turks alike. Things have changed with people fighting back via online reviews, but the reputation still stands. I have been advised by Turkish friends to this day not to eat in Kumkapı.
Fish Market
Across the busy Kennedy Avenue (Kennedy Caddesi) sits the famous Kumkapı Fish Market. The market is full of stores selling fresh daily catches from the rich seas surrounding Istanbul. The original fish market in the photos below was demolished during construction of the Eurasia Tunnel (Avrasya Tüneli). It was temporarily relocated to Samatya and rebuilt in Kumkapı in 2018.
