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San Angelo is a small city on the southern edge of the Panhandle Plains in Texas. It was a nice surprise and we had a great experience.
Introduction to San Angelo
San Angelo was the site of a short-lived Franciscan mission, founded in 1632 by Friars Juan de Salas (c. 1580 – c. 1645) and Juan de Ortega. It lasted about six months. The area was later visited by the Castillo-Martin expedition of 1650 and the Diego de Guadalajara expedition of 1654.
The city of San Angelo was founded as Santa Angela in 1867 by Bartholomew J. DeWitt, around the same time as Fort Concho. DeWitt named it after his wife, Carolina Angela, and it was later shortened to San Angela. The name changed to San Angelo in 1883, on the insistence of the US Postal Service, because San Angela is grammatically incorrect in Spanish.
San Angelo became a trading center for local farmers and settlers. It was also a typical Wild West town full of saloons, brothels, and gambling houses. With the arrival of the Santa Fe Railway in 1888 followed by the Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Railway in 1889, the city became an important regional transportation hub and experienced rapid growth. San Angelo also experienced a boom due to the discovery of oil in the area.
The city was passed over as the site of what would become Texas Tech University, which ended up in Lubbock. Goodfellow Air Force Base opened in 1940 to train pilots during World War II. It’s now a nonflying base used for cryptologic and intelligence training as well as training for military firefighters. In 1955, the local school district was one of the first to integrate, doing so voluntarily.
Today, San Angelo has consistently ranked as one of the best small cities for business and employment in America. It has a diverse economy with major oil, livestock, and agricultural industries, and boasts several cultural attractions.
My Experience in San Angelo
We passed through San Angelo on our long road trip through the American West. It was sort of an unscheduled stop. Since we were “in the area” at Big Bend National Park, I called up my friend Lenny, who has lived there for several years, to see if we could pop in and say hello.
Lenny, originally from Massachusetts, was a fantastic guide and knew a lot about the local history and attractions. We were very lucky to have him take the time to show us around on an overcast November day. It was also great to see him after about 12 years.
Getting to San Angelo
San Angelo is quite isolated. The nearest large cities are Austin (205 miles, about 3 ¼ hours), San Antonio (210 miles, about 3 ¼ hours), and Dallas (255 miles, about 4 hours). The city is also served by San Angelo Regional Airport (SJT), which has regularly scheduled flights to Dallas.
Where to Eat in San Angelo
My friend Lenny took us to some great places to eat during our two-day stay in San Angelo. There are lots of good restaurants to choose from. It’s too bad we didn’t have more time to try a few more.
Cork & Pig Tavern
On our first night, we went to dinner at Cork & Pig Tavern. Four chefs collaborated to open the restaurant in 2010, and it’s considered one of the best in San Angelo. They offer wood-fired pizzas, salads, sandwiches, and gourmet entrees. I had the Cuban sandwich which was delicious. It’s served with peanut coleslaw.
Roxie’s Diner
For breakfast the next morning, we met Lenny at Roxie’s Diner. It’s your typical 50’s-style diner serving big hearty breakfast, burgers, and other specialties. I had a huge breakfast combo that filled me up for the day.
Twisted Root Burger Co.
When it was time for lunch, we stopped into Twisted Root Burger Co., which is located downtown along the Concho River. It’s situated in a dilapidated building constructed in 1958.
Twisted Root, which has locations all over Texas, has a great atmosphere. There’s a full bar as well as an outdoor patio overlooking the river and a small park.
They serve up a variety of incredible gourmet burgers with funny names, milkshakes, and salads. You can also build your own burger or try an exotic meat burger, such as venison, elk, lamb, ostrich, rabbit, camel, duck, or boar (one of them is served daily). I had the big tex, which is topped with cheddar, guacamole, fried onion strings, and chipotle sauce. I would love to go back one day and try some more burgers.
Stango’s Coffee Shop (Permanently Closed)
For a quick coffee break, we visited Stango’s Coffee Shop, right in the heart of downtown San Angelo. In addition to good coffee, they serve sandwiches, pizza, desserts, and more. It’s also a retail shop with a huge selection of clothes, motorcycle apparel, jewelry, bags and purses, and smoking accessories. (Note: While the coffee shop closed in October 2022, the owner opened Stango’s Pizza Parlor a couple blocks away in a new location.)
Concho Pearl Icehouse (Permanently Closed)
Finally, for our final meal with Lenny, he took us to the Concho Pearl Icehouse. This classic Texas-style smokehouse has a great atmosphere, friendly service, and a selection of over 130 beers. The menu has some great BBQ dishes, Tex-Mex creations, salads, starters, sides, and desserts. I had the brisket sandwich, which was amazing.
Concho Avenue in San Angelo
Historic Concho Avenue, in the heart of the downtown area, is a great place to start exploring the city. It was the first street in what was then Santa Angela. The two blocks running between Irving and Oakes Streets are lined with shops and restaurants situated in historic buildings.
Among the important buildings are Miss Hattie’s Bordello Museum (1896); the Schwartz & Raas Building (1896); the Johnson & Taylor Building (1895), designed by architect Oscar Ruffini (1858-1957); and the building housing Miss Hattie’s Restaurant (1884) (see below).
Miss Hattie’s
Lenny took us in to quickly see Miss Hattie’s Restaurant. The building was used as the first San Angelo Bank Building. The tin ceiling and brick walls in the main dining room date back to the original construction. The side dining room was built in 1885 as a grocery store.
Interestingly, a tunnel was rediscovered during renovation of the building. Stories were often told of ranchers and farmers coming to San Angelo and telling their wives and families to go shopping while they go to the bank and tend to business. These men would then sneak down a tunnel leading to another building just down the block to a secret bordello, so the rediscovery of the tunnel confirmed the stories. The bordello opened in 1902 and was shut down for the last time by the Texas Rangers in 1952.
The building currently operates as Miss Hattie’s Bordello Museum. Tours run at 2pm and 4pm Tuesday through Thursday, and at 2pm, 3pm, and 4pm on Fridays and Saturdays. They cost US$6 per person (as of April 2025) and last about a half hour. Unfortunately, the museum was closed when we walked by.
Eggemeyer’s General Store
Eggemeyer’s General Store is at the corner of Concho and Oakes. It was fun to stop in and see everything they sell, from homemade fudge and candy to toys and souvenirs to wine and cooking utensils. It’s got a great atmosphere and it’s a wonderful place to visit.
Murals on Concho Avenue
We noticed a couple murals decorating some of the buildings along Concho Avenue. One depicted a historic San Angelo scene with horse-drawn carriages and a streetcar. Another was dedicated to the military presence in town, paying homage to the three military outposts operating throughout the city’s history.
Twohig Avenue in San Angelo
Twohig Avenue is a block north of Concho Avenue. It has a few interesting buildings to check out.
Texas Theatre
First, at Twohig and Irving is the Texas Theatre. It opened on November 28, 1929 and was first owned by R&R Theatres of Dallas. It was built in the Mission Revival style but at some point a modern façade covered most of the front.
United Artists bought the building in 1956 and it closed down in 1983. Lee Pfluger purchased the Texas Theatre in 1998 and it closed down again in 2015.
San Angelo National Bank Building
On the next block east at Chadbourne Street is the San Angelo National Bank Building. It was built in 1927 by architect Anton Korn (1886-1942) in the Classical Revival style. The building was sold to the City of San Angelo in 1967, and acquired by Trimble-Batier-Cobb Insurance in 1981. It was added to the National Register of Historic Places a year later.
O.C. Fisher Federal Building
Continuing to Oakes Street is the O.C. Fisher Federal Building. It was built between 1909 and 1911 as the San Angelo Post Office and Courthouse by architect James Knox Taylor (1857-1929). It doubled in size with an addition in 1932 but no longer functions as a post office. The building was named for O.C. Fisher (1903-1994), a San Angelo county attorney, state legislator, and US Congressman, serving from 1943 to 1974.
Cactus Hotel
Across the street is the former Cactus Hotel, which is the tallest building in the city. It was built as the Hilton Hotel in 1928 by Conrad Hilton (1887-1979). In fact, it was the fourth of the original Hilton Hotels.
The 14-story building was designed in the Italian Renaissance style by American architect Anton Korn (1886-1942). It sits on the former site of the Titus Machine and Tool Company owned by engineer and inventor Silas Wright Titus (1849-1922).
The former guest rooms have been converted into apartments and offices. It’s also one of the iconic event venues in San Angelo. Weddings, banquets, fundraisers, and other events often take place there.
One of the most striking features is the elegant lobby, which together with the basement and mezzanine takes up almost 17,000 square feet. It’s accented with blue and gold Spanish tiles and is lit by a skylight. The reception area still exists and is now used as a food station, gift collection, or DJ area. The mezzanine wraps around the lobby and offers great views of the lobby floor.
The ballroom can hold up to 350 people. It has six floor-to-ceiling windows, hardwood floors, crystal chandeliers, and framed murals around the ceiling.
The Green Room is used for meetings and as a bridal suite and hospitality room. It’s decorated in warm shades of green and has wooden beams across the ceiling.
Finally, the Top of the Cactus is on the highest floor. It’s used for small receptions and meetings and has 21 windows overlooking the city.
Boot Companies in San Angelo
Two of the most famous boot makers in Texas are located in San Angelo. We had the opportunity to get a behind-the-scenes look at one of them.
JL Mercer Boot Company
JL Mercer Boot Company is a custom boot maker based in San Angelo. Lenny took us in while we walked around downtown San Angelo. He had been given a pair of custom boots as a gift and was so impressed with them that he wanted us to meet the people who made them and give us an insider’s look at the boot making process.
JL Mercer Boot Company was founded in 1923. They’re known around the world for making some of the finest handmade custom cowboy boots. They’ve created boots for John Wayne, Lyndon B. Johnson, Bill Elliott, Charlie Daniels, and Billy Ray Cyrus, among countless other celebrities. Their showroom has several pairs of custom boots on display.
The manager allowed us to go upstairs to see the workshop, and he graciously showed us around. We were given a quick explanation of the boot making process and how the equipment works.
It looked a little disorganized to our untrained eyes but with the explanation everything made sense. We were shown the lasts, leather, and some of the machinery used to put the boots together.
The manager then showed us some of the boots currently in progress. Overall, it was very interesting and a great experience to see such an important part of San Angelo history in person.
M.L. Leddy’s
Although we didn’t stop in, we walked by M. L. Leddy’s on Oakes Street. It’s another legendary boot company based in San Angelo. M.L. Leddy bought the local boot and saddle shop in Brady, Texas, in 1922, and the Leddy brothers’ reputation quickly began to grow. Demand was so high that by 1936, they relocated to San Angelo, and eventually opened a second location in Fort Worth at the historic Fort Worth Stockyards in 1941. Leddy’s continues to make handmade boots using the same method since 1922.
Cultural District of San Angelo
The Cultural District of San Angelo contains several cultural attractions suitable for all ages. It’s located just south of the downtown area.
Concho River
The Cultural District is separated from downtown San Angelo by the Concho River. Concho translates to “shell” in Spanish. The river was named for the abundance of mussels that reportedly produced gem-quality pearls.
Along the Concho River, locals and visitors can enjoy four miles of trails along the San Angelo River Walk, parks such as the Bosque, a nine-hole golf course, and the Bill Aylor Sr. Memorial RiverStage. The Bosque includes miniature golf, volleyball, pedal boats, and other recreational activities. You can also walk across the Celebration Bridge.
San Angelo Museum of Fine Arts
Just south of the river is the San Angelo Museum of Fine Arts. It was founded in 1981 and opened in 1985 in the historic Quartermaster’s Building at nearby Fort Concho. The current building, which is shaped like a covered wagon or a saddle, opened in September 1999. The award-winning museum features a growing permanent collection and has hosted several important traveling exhibitions. It’s open daily except Mondays. Admission is US$5 for adults, US$2 for seniors, and free for kids up to 18 (as of April 2025).
Municipal Swimming Pool
Across the street from the museum is the Municipal Swimming Pool. The main building was constructed in 1938 and opened on April 29, 1939. It was designed by architect John Becker in the Pueblo Revival style and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1988.
Old Town Historic District
Along one block of Orient Street is the Old Town Historic District. It features a handful of historic homes and buildings relocated from other parts of the city for preservation purposes. They date between the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Railway Museum of San Angelo
The Railway Museum of San Angelo sits along the railroad tracks in the former Texas headquarters and depot of the Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Railway. The building was constructed between 1909 and 1910 and was the largest building in town at that time. The railway line was purchased by the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway in 1928 and served the city until the 1980s. Locals saved the building from demolition in the late 1980s and restored it to its original splendor. The Railway Museum opened in 1997 and features railroad artifacts, historical exhibits, photographs, and model railways. It’s open Friday through Sunday. Admission is US$5 for visitors age 12-64, US$4.50 for seniors age 65+, US$3 for kids age 5-11, and free for kids under 5 (as of April 2025).
Fort Concho
Fort Concho is a former US Army fort. It’s open to visitors as a museum and is the biggest attraction in San Angelo. a great place to learn about military life on the frontier.
The fort is open daily. Self-guided tours are US$3 for adults, US$2 for seniors age 60+, US$1.50 for kids age 7-17, and free for kids under 7 (as of April 2025). Check the official website for a schedule of guided tours. Some of the buildings were closed during our visit so we didn’t exactly get a complete look at the fort. I hope to return one day to see the rest.
History of Fort Concho
Fort Concho was established in November 1867 at the confluence of the north and south branches of the Concho River. It sat on the Goodnight-Loving Trail, which followed part of the old Butterfield Overland Mail route. The fort was home to the 4th Cavalry from 1867 to 1875, and the Buffalo Soldiers of the 10th Cavalry from 1875 to 1882.
Fort Concho was abandoned in June 1889 and divided into commercial and residential lots. Most of the buildings were renovated while a few were demolished and recycled for materials. New buildings were constructed in and around the fort, including a school on the parade ground in 1907.
Conservation
Conservation efforts began in 1905 with suggestions that the city purchase the land. Finally, in 1913, progress was made. The eastern third of the grounds, which remained intact, were donated to San Angelo by the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway. In 1924, the Daughters of the American Revolution raised enough money to preserve the fort and also secured its designation as a Texas state historic site.
The Fort Concho Museum later moved into the Headquarters building and opened on August 18, 1830, but the building itself wasn’t acquired until 1935. Four more buildings were acquired in 1939, with further acquisitions taking place in the 1940s and 1950s. On July 4, 1961, Fort Concho was named a National Historic Landmark District, and on October 15, 1966, it was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.
A major restoration took place in the 1980s. More buildings were acquired, post-fort structures were demolished, and the parade ground was fully restored. By 1989, Fort Concho consisted of 16 original buildings, six reconstructed buildings, and one ruin. In August 2019, there were 25 total buildings, and in September 2021 a permit was issued for the reconstruction of the Enlisted Men’s Barracks #3 and #4.
Barracks Row
The first section of Fort Concho we visited was Barracks Row. It consisted of six enlisted men’s barracks on the northern side of the parade ground.
Enlisted Men’s Barracks #1 was built in 1869 and #2 in 1870. Both housed two cavalry companies each. Today, #1 functions as the visitor center and gift shop while #2 displays wagons and artillery pieces. Both buildings were acquired in 1981.
Enlisted Men’s Barracks #3 through #6 housed infantrymen. #3 and #4 were both demolished after the fort was abandoned. #5 and #6 were built in 1871 and housed a unit of the National Guard in the 1920s. They were both in ruins by 1947 and reconstructed in 1951. Today, #5 is decorated with period furniture and items enlisted infantrymen would have used during their time at Fort Concho.
Commissary and Quartermaster’s Storehouse
The east side of the parade ground holds Administrative Row. On the northern side of Administrative Row are the Commissary and Quartermaster’s Storehouse. They were built in 1868 and 1869 respectively and are the oldest buildings in San Angelo. The Commissary was acquired in 1939 but used as a garage by the municipal transit department until 1974. The Quartermaster’s Storehouse was used as the San Angelo Museum of Fine Arts from 1985 to 1999.
Headquarters
The Headquarters building is between the Quartermaster’s Storehouse and the Post Hospital. It was constructed in 1876 on the orders of Commander Benjamin Grierson (1826-1911). It consisted of a main central structure with north and south wings. The building was used in various capacities in the 20 years after the fort was abandoned.
Four rooms on the ground floor are decorated to appear as they would have during the time the fort was active. They are the regimental headquarters, adjutant’s office, court martial, and orderly’s room.
Post Hospital
The Post Hospital lies on the southern end of Administrative Row. The original hospital was built between 1868 and 1870 but destroyed by fire in 1911. It was reconstructed in the mid-1980s and contains an exhibit on frontier medicine as well as general medicine.
Chapel and Schoolhouse
The Chapel and Schoolhouse was completed and dedicated on February 22, 1879. It was the last structure to be completed during the fort’s military years and sits at the eastern end of Officers’ Row. After Fort Concho was abandoned, it continued to be used as a schoolhouse and also served as a private home at one point. It was acquired in 1946.
Officers’ Row
On the southern side of the parade ground is Officers’ Row. It consisted of nine buildings housing officers. On the far west side is Officers’ Quarters #1, which was built between 1870 and 1872. It served as the commanding officer’s residence and was acquired in 1964.
Officers’ Quarters #2 was built in 1870 and acquired in 1952. Buildings #3 through #6 were also built in 1870, but #5 lies in ruins. Officers’ Quarters #7 was built between 1870 and 1877, while #8 and #9 were completed in 1872.
E.H. Danner Museum of Telephony
Officers’ Quarters #4 houses the E.H. Danner Museum of Telephony. It opened at Fort Concho in November 1990 and displays original telephone equipment and switchboards.
Stables
Finally, about a block north of Barracks Row are the stables. One of the stables houses an events venue available for rent.
The Living History Stable displays wagons and coaches, including a Wells Fargo stagecoach. There are also horses and examples of brands used by local ranches.
Map of Fort Concho
Lone Wolf Bridge
After visiting Fort Concho, we headed south to the Lone Wolf Bridge, which spans 152 feet over the Concho River. It was built in 1921 to replace an earlier bridge constructed in 1888. It has been converted into a pedestrian-only bridge and is popular for its “locks of love”. The bridge is said to be haunted by the victims of a 1936 flood as well as the spirits of a Kiowa chief and his son killed by the Fort Concho cavalry in 1873.
Producers Livestock Auction Company
Finally, a short drive from downtown is the Producers Livestock Auction Company. It’s the largest goat, lamb, and sheep market in the country and has been owned by the Cargile family since 1954.
A sheep and goat auction takes place every Tuesday and a cattle auction every Thursday. Unfortunately, there was no auction on the day we visited, but it was still interesting to get a quick behind the scenes look.
