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Monastiraki is a neighborhood in the city center of Athens known for its flea market, archaeological sites, and entertainment.
Introduction to Monastiraki
Monastiraki is named for Monastiraki Square, which in turn is named for an old monastery that no longer exists there. As a tourist center, just about everybody who visits the city will pass through the area at some point. It’s loaded with restaurants, souvenir shops, hotels, street entertainers, and street vendors.
Monastiraki Square
Monastiraki Square is one of the most important and liveliest squares in Athens. There’s action on every corner and phenomenal views of the Acropolis.
The square is full of street performers, vendors, and often hosts special events. There’s also a covered area where you can look down onto ancient ruins and another showing the flow of the Eridanos River.
Pantanassa Church
On the square are a few significant historical monuments. The Pantanassa Church (Εκκλησία της Παντανάσσης) was part of a 10th century monastery that gives the area its name.
Tzistarakis Mosque
The Tzistarakis Mosque (Τζαμί Τζισταράκη / Cizderiye Camii) is an Ottoman mosque built in 1759 by Dizdar Mustafa Ağa, the Ottoman governor of Athens. He was dismissed from his post when it surfaced that he used one of the pillars of the Temple of Olympian Zeus to make lime for the building (although it was also likely he used a column from Hadrian’s Library next door).
During the Greek Revolution, the mosque was used as an assembly hall for local elders. After independence, it was used as a reception hall to honor King Otto in 1834, then as a barracks, prison, and warehouse.
In 1915, the mosque was restored by Greek architect Anastasios Orlandos (1887-1979) to house the National Museum of Decorative Arts beginning in 1918. In 1966, it was repurposed to provide a temporary place of prayer for the deposed King Saud of Saudi Arabia, and then returned to its use as the museum until 1973. The building was damaged by an earthquake in 1981 and reopened to the public in 1991. It now serves as an annex to the Museum of Modern Greek Culture. The building has been closed since April 21, 2015, and will reopen at some point in the future (as of November 2023).
Monastiraki Metro Station Archaeological Site
Inside the Monastiraki Metro Station is an archaeological site found during construction of Line 3 of the Athens Metro. It consisted of various settlements dating between the 8th century BC and the 19th century. What’s visible today dates between the 5th century BC and 2nd century AD. The structures were most likely used as storage rooms and workshops.
One of the most impressive features of the ruins includes a covered portion of the Eridanos River. During the reign of Roman Emperor Hadrian in the early 2nd century, the river was covered by a brick vault and topped with dirt to convert it into a sewer.
Shopping in Monastiraki
Monastiraki is an important shopping district. First, running west of Monastiraki Square is Ifestou, a pedestrian street famous for its flea market with souvenir shopping and cheap deals.
Running east of the square all the way to Mitropoleos Square (see below) is Pandrossou. It’s lined on both sides with souvenir shops.
Adrianou Street
Almost all the streets connected to Monastiraki Square lead to a great choice of outdoor cafés and tavernas to pass the time away, but Adrianou stands above the rest. It runs parallel to Ifestou a block south, and along the north side of the ancient Agora of Athens. Some of my favorite restaurants in the old city are on Adrianou.
Avyssinias Square
If you want to see a throwback to the old days of Athens, head to Avyssinias (or Abyssinias) Square. It sits between Ifestou and Ermou Streets west of Monastiraki Square. Avyssinias Square was formed in 1860 and named after Ethiopia. There are two theories as to the name. First, because Ethiopians probably lived in the area. Second, Ethiopia provided aid to refugees from Asia Minor there in 1922.
The second-hand goods market moved to Avyssinias Square in 1910. Since then, it’s been the place to go for antiques, old books, and vintage items. You’ll also find some good tavernas and cafés.
Church of St. Philip
South of Avyssinias Square along Adrianou is the Church of the St. Philip the Apostle. It was built in 1866 atop the remains of an older 9th century church. That church, which was a three-ailed basilica, had been heavily damaged in 1826 in the Siege of the Acropolis during the Greek Revolution.
The Church of St. Philip underwent an extensive restoration in 1961. All modern interventions were removed and the building was returned to its original basilica shape.
If the church is open when you’re walking by, it’s worth stopping in to see. The wooden iconostasis and throne date back to 1842. The icons painted inside the church were completed in the 19th century.
Ruins of the Church of St. Thomas
About a block south of Adrianou across the street from the Stoa of Attalos are the ruins of the Church of St. Thomas. It was a Byzantine church originally built in the 6th or 7th century and renovated in the 9th and 10th centuries. After the Ottomans occupied Athens, the church was abandoned and left in ruins until the 17th century, when a new church was built on the site. The land on which the church sat was sold in 1834, and it was demolishedin order to build houses. The ruins will be enclosed in the new complex of the Museum of Modern Greek Culture. Once the museum opens and I have a chance to visit, I’ll have some updates.
Panagia Grigorousa
Sitting between Hadrian’s Library and the Roman Agora is the Church of Panagia Grigorousa. It’s one of the most important churches in Athens. The church is also dedicated to the Archangels and St. Phanourios.
Panagia Grigorousa was built in 1852 on the site of an 11th or 12th century Byzantine church. That church, Pammegistoi Taxiarches (All-Great Archangels), was almost completely destroyed during the Greek War of Independence.
Panagia Grigorousa, which was first renovated in 1922, was built with materials recycled from the previous church and other demolished churches and ancient temples in the area. It’s a cross-in-square church topped by a dome. The interior is covered with incredible icon frescoes painted by Demetrios Pelekasis (1881-1973). In 1945, the icon of Panagia Grigorousa, which sits on the left side of the iconostasis, was dedicated to the church by Greek refugees from Asia Minor.
Ottoman Madrasa
Outside the northeast side of the Roman Agora, a ruined doorway stands among some trees. It was part of an Ottoman madrasa, an Islamic school built in 1721 by Mehmed Fehri. Near the end of the Ottoman period, it was converted to a prison and quickly gained a notorious reputation. Prisoners lived in overcrowded and inhumane conditions and many were executed. Others were subject to torture and slavery.
The madrasa was nearly destroyed during the Greek War of Independence, but it was rebuilt after the Greeks liberated Athens. The Greek Army then used it as a barracks until the end of the war. In 1833, the madrasa became a prison once again, this time for Greek and Turkish political prisoners. As in the past, the prison gained notoriety. It closed for good near the end of the 19th century, and the building was destroyed in 1914. All that remains is the door.
Agora Square
Just east of Hadrian’s Library is Agora Square. It’s a pleasant leafy square with a restaurant in the center and others surrounding it.
Mitropoleos Square
Mitropoleos Square is at the east end of Monastiraki. It sits along Mitropoleos Street about halfway between Monastiraki Square and Syntagma Square.
The focal point of Mitropoleos Square is the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens, which is covered in another entry. It’s the seat of the Archbishop of Athens and All Greece. There’s a museum located in the crypt displaying rare and valuable ecclesiastical items.
Archbishop Damaskinos Statue
Facing the cathedral on the west side of the square are two statues. The first is dedicated to Archbishop Damaskinos of Athens (1891-1949). He was the Archbishop of Athens and All Greece from 1941 until his death, and served as regent of Greece after Nazi occupation from 1944 to 1946.
Constantine XI Statue
The statue of Constantine XI Palaiologos sits further back against a building. He was the last reigning Byzantine emperor and was killed during the Fall of Constantinople on May 29, 1453. His death marked the end of the Roman Empire.
Chrysostomos of Smyrna Statue
Finally, behind the Metropolitan Cathedral is a statue of Chrysostomos of Smyrna (1867-1922). He was the Metropolitan of Smyrna (today’s Izmir, Turkey) from 1910 to 1914 and again from 1919 until his death in 1922. A staunch nationalist, he decided to stay in Smyrna after the Greek Army retreated at the end of the Greco-Turkish War of 1919-1922. He was later murdered by a Turkish mob. Chrysostomos was declared a saint of the Orthodox Church on November 4, 1992.
Panagia Gorgoepikoos
To the right of the Metropolitan Cathedral is Panagia Gorgoepikoos (Παναγία Γοργοεπίκοος), a small Byzantine church. Also known as the Church of Saint Eleftherios (Άγιος Ελευθέριος) or Little Metropolis (Μικρή Μητρόπολη), it’s unique as far as Byzantine architecture is concerned.
History of Panagia Gorgoepikoos
Panagia Gorgoepikoos, which translates to “Panagia Who Grants Requests Quickly”, was named for a miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary once housed there. It was most likely built at the turn of the 13th century. It sits atop the ruins of an ancient temple dedicated to the goddess Ilithyia.
The church was abandoned after the Greek Revolution in 1829 and served as the city’s library starting in 1841. In 1856, it was restored to its original state with all recent additions removed. It was reconsecrated in 1863, dedicated first as Christ the Savior and later as Saint Eleftherios.
Architecture
Panagia Gorgoepikoos was built entirely out of marble recycled from other ancient buildings. It’s only 7.6 meters (25 feet) long and 12.2 meters (40 feet) wide. Unlike typical Byzantine architecture, no bricks were used in its construction except for the dome.
All the marble up to the windows is undecorated. Above that height there are 90 sculptures, which makes it unique among Byzantine architecture.
Interior
The church has a three-aisled nave and is topped by an octagonal dome. The dome was originally supported by four columns but they were replaced by piers in the 19th century. The interior was once covered entirely with frescoes, but the only one that survives is of the Virgin Mary over the apse.
