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Filandia is one of the best towns to visit in the Coffee Region of Colombia. It’s become quite the tourist hotspot over the years and has many colorful buildings all over town. Filandia, which is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listed Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia, boldly refers to itself as “the most beautiful town in Quindío”, much to the chagrin of its rival town, nearby Salento.

"Welcome to the most beautiful town of Quindío" in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
“Welcome to the most beautiful town of Quindío”

 

Introduction to Filandia

When I first visited Filandia on a Saturday in September 2014, there were only a few Colombian tourists, many of the homes and buildings weren’t painted, and there weren’t many shops and restaurants. It was also very easy to find parking right on the plaza.

Building on the plaza in September 2014 in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Building on the plaza in September 2014
Tents on the plaza in September 2014 in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Tents on the plaza in September 2014

I visit Filandia several times a year. Every time I take a tour group or visit on my own, I’ve noticed some kind of change. More homes are beautifully painted, some good restaurants and shops have opened, and there are lots of international tourists. What a difference a few years makes!

The same building above in May 2019
The same building above in May 2019
Booths that have replaced the tents in the plaza in May 2019
Booths that have replaced the tents in the plaza in May 2019

Personally, I think Filandia and Salento are both very different and each merit at least a half a day of exploration. However, Filandia seems to have more attractions than Salento, but Salento has the added advantage of being closer to the Cocora Valley (Valle de Cocora). All in all, Filandia is getting better and better each year! At the moment, it’s only lacking better choices for accommodation.

Flowers in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Flowers


 

When to Visit Filandia

The best time to visit Filandia is during the week. Weekends, especially three-day holiday weekends, attract huge numbers of domestic tourists. The crowds can be unbearable, taking away from the town’s charm and adding stress to your trip. Of course, there is a trade-off. During the week many shops are closed, but if you can do without souvenir shopping it won’t really matter.

The Street Stopped in Time on a Tuesday afternoon
The Street Stopped in Time on a Tuesday afternoon

 

Getting to Filandia

Filandia is easily reached with direct buses from Pereira and Armenia. From Pereira’s bus terminal, Expreso Alcalá has direct service.

 

Where to Stay in Filandia

I’ve only stayed overnight in Filandia once and usually visit on a day trip to Salento. My experience in this department is limited.

 

Hostería de Mi Pueblo

We stayed one night at Hostería de Mi Pueblo, a home turned hotel. We enjoyed our stay as well as the friendly service. It was very reasonably priced for the location and quality of the room. It’s located just a block and a half from the plaza.

Hostería de Mi Pueblo
Hostería de Mi Pueblo
Lobby at Hostería de Mi Pueblo
Lobby
Hallway at Hostería de Mi Pueblo
Hallway

The room was big and comfortable and had a large window overlooking a garden. Well, the garden wasn’t that nice but it was better than a room on the street side.

Our room at Hostería de Mi Pueblo
Our room
Bathroom at Hostería de Mi Pueblo
Bathroom

A delicious breakfast was served in a bright room on the ground floor. We had scrambled eggs, bread, and fresh fruit along with coffee and hot chocolate.

Breakfast room at Hostería de Mi Pueblo
Breakfast room
Breakfast at Hostería de Mi Pueblo
Breakfast


 

Where to Eat in Filandia

If you only have one meal to eat in Filandia, eat at Helena Adentro. If you have more time in town, there are some great choices.

 

Helena Adentro

You can’t visit Filandia without eating at Helena Adentro. This excellent restaurant is run by a local Colombian chef and a Kiwi partner, with a huge support staff running the kitchen, bar, and dining room. Helena Adentro is by far one of the best restaurants in the entire Coffee Region. Whenever we visit the town, we promise ourselves to try something different, but we always gravitate back to Helena Adentro.

Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Helena Adentro

Recommendations are highly recommended. You can book your table on their website with a credit card (you’ll be charged a small penalty for no-shows). If you get there around lunchtime without a reservation, it can be extremely packed, especially on a holiday weekend. We’ve heard reports of waits lasting up to three hours. The staff will take a phone number and call you when your table is ready, giving you a chance to walk around town for bit. We’ve waited anywhere between 30 minutes and an hour.

 

Location of Helena Adentro

The restaurant changed locations at the end of March 2021. It’s now hosted at the Casa Rosada at the end of the Street Stopped in Time. There are incredible views of the rolling green hills from the dining room.

Dining room at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Dining room
Bar at Helena Adentro
Bar
View from Helena Adentro
View from the restaurant

 

Old Location

The old location was in a smaller building in the heart of town. I think it had a bit more charm than the new location, but the views at the new location are incredible.

Old location of Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Old location of Helena Adentro
Dining room at the old location of Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Dining room


 

Dishes at Helena Adentro

The menu has a good selection of dishes meant to share. There are typically four portions per plate. That’s perfect since we always go in a group and want to try as many flavors as possible. I’ve tried every option on the menu and have always been impressed not only by the flavor and high quality but also the presentation.

Yucca at Helena Adentro
Yucca
Choripán at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Choripán
Patacón with shrimp at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Patacón with shrimp
Eggplant with goat cheese at Helena Adentro
Eggplant with goat cheese
Homemade fries topped with sauce and cheese at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Homemade fries topped with sauce and cheese
Empanadas at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Empanadas
Vegan nachos at Helena Adentro
Vegan nachos
Slow cooked pork ribs at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Slow cooked pork ribs
Marranitas at Helena Adentro
Marranitas

One of the more interesting dishes that stands apart is the rabbit sandwich, which is phenomenal. The posta estofada, which is beef soaking in beer and cooked for five hours in the oven, is also excellent, as is the breaded chicken breast. These three options are good if you’re looking for a meal for yourself.

Rabbit sandwich at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Rabbit sandwich
Posta estofada at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Posta estofada
Breaded chicken breast at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Breaded chicken breast

 

Drinks at Helena Adentro

For drinks, try the fresh juices. Each juice combination has another fruit that can be added in or you can get the juice as a soda if you desire.

Juices at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Juices

The restaurant offers some of the best cocktails we’ve ever had, and a few are also available in a non-alcoholic version. The uchuva with limoncillo and the Frida sin licor are my favorites. The blackberry mojito is also good.

Frida sin licor at Helena Adentro
Frida sin licor
Blackberry mojito at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Blackberry mojito

 

Dessert at Helena Adentro

Make sure you save room for dessert. We’ve had the flourless chocolate cake (very rich) and the bread pudding. There’s also a delicious cheesecake on the menu.

Flourless chocolate cake at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Flourless chocolate cake
Bread pudding at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Bread pudding
Cheesecake at Helena Adentro in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Cheesecake


 

Tuk Tuk

On the same corner as Helena Adentro is Tuk Tuk. They serve Thai food with 100% locally sourced products, and are open daily except Mondays.

Tuk Tuk
Tuk Tuk
Dining room at Tuk Tuk in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Dining room

One of the highlights of the restaurant, besides the food, is the spectacular view. There’s a small outdoor terrace overlooking the rolling green hills surrounding the town. If it’s rainy heavily, however, it’s better to sit inside because you’ll probably get soaked.

Outdoor terrace
Outdoor terrace
View from the outdoor terrace at Tuk Tuk in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
View from the terrace

As a starter, Marisol and I split Vietnamese spring rolls. We also had hot fruit teas. I had passionfruit and Marisol had strawberry, grape, and cinnamon.

Vietnamese spring rolls and teas
Vietnamese spring rolls and teas

For our main course, Marisol ordered a beef dish while I had phad thai. All three dishes were delicious and authentic. Also, if you’d like a little more spice to your meals, the servers offer a homemade sauce called Ay María which is nice and strong. For dessert, we shared a chocolate cake.

Beef dish at Tuk Tuk
Beef dish
Phad thai at Tuk Tuk
Phad thai
Chocolate cake
Chocolate cake

The service, quality of the food, atmosphere, and of course the view are all excellent. We’ll definitely be back on future visits.

 

José Fernando

A local recommended José Fernando for a good cup of coffee. It’s situated in what is probably the most beautiful building in Filandia, a block downhill from the plaza. There’s a colorful café on the ground floor and a restaurant upstairs.

José Fernando in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
José Fernando

We had a seat in the café, which was empty except for two other tables, and ordered a Chemex for two. The server told us we would have to change our order because they don’t do alternative coffee methods on Friday, Saturday, or Sunday because of the amount of customers. This made absolutely no sense to us because the place was empty, so we ordered a latte and chai instead. The latte was normal and the chai was terrible.

José Fernando in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
José Fernando
José Fernando
José Fernando

I’ll give it another chance on a future visit, maybe for the food as well, but this experience left a bad taste in our mouth.

 

MOCAFE

MOCAFE is located near the end of the Street Stopped in Time, next to a shopping plaza focused on indigenous cultures. It’s a small place but it’s got a lot of character.

MOCAFE in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
MOCAFE
MOCAFE
MOCAFE

We were able to get our Chemex, and the barista gave a nice explanation while preparing it at our table. The quality of the coffee was very good, and comes from a finca located in Filandia.

Chemex at MOCAFE in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Chemex


 

CoffeecolBean Roastery

Around the corner is CoffeecolBean Roastery. They source specialty coffee from small organic lots in the region and serve some of the best coffee I’ve had in Colombia. We had a V60 demonstration and enjoyed our coffee very much.

CoffeecolBean Roastery
CoffeecolBean Roastery
CoffeecolBean Roastery in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
CoffeecolBean Roastery
V60 at CoffeecolBean Roastery
V60

 

Orale’s Tacos (Permanently Closed)

For dinner one night, we went to a hole in the wall taco place, Orale’s Tacos. It’s owned by a Colombian woman who lived almost 40 years in Mexico.

Orale's Tacos
Orale’s Tacos

They have a small menu of tacos, burritos, nachos, and quesadillas, all prepared in a traditional way. There are also homemade sauces available, such as guacamole and chipotle.

Orale's Tacos
Orale’s Tacos

We were expecting your average taco, but they were delicious. The meat was cooked to perfection, the guacamole was flavorful, and the tortillas were homemade. I had two tacos and Marisol had a quesadilla.

Beef taco
Beef taco
Quesadilla
Quesadilla

 

Heladería La 75 (Permanently Closed)

A good place to cool off from the heat is an ice cream shop called Heladería La 75. It’s located on the plaza and has some unique flavors such as avocado and chocolate with chili. The original store is in Buenavista.

Heladería La 75 in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Heladería La 75
Heladería La 75 in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Heladería La 75

 

Plaza in Filandia

A great place to start exploring Filandia is the pleasant main plaza, which is full of different types of trees. There are benches to sit and people watch.

Plaza in May 2019 in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Plaza in May 2019
Plaza in May 2019
Plaza in May 2019
Looking at the plaza in September 2014 in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Looking at the plaza in September 2014

Around the plaza you’ll find several different restaurants, bars, cafés, and shops. Many of them are located in colonial buildings, including the Casa de la Cultura, which features a tourist information center.

Casa de la Cultura
Casa de la Cultura
Plaza
Plaza
Plaza
Plaza
Buildings on the plaza
Buildings on the plaza
Buildings on the plaza
Buildings on the plaza

When I’ve traveled to Filandia on Saturday or Sunday afternoons, the streets in the plaza are closed to traffic. Booths located all around the plaza sell crafts, street food, and sweets. You can also see traditional dances performed, some of them comical.

Traditional dance with machetes in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Traditional dance with machetes

My favorite thing to look out for around the plaza are the balconies. They’re beautifully painted and add lots of color to the town.

Balcony on the plaza
Balcony on the plaza
Colorful building on the plaza
Colorful building
Balconies on the plaza
Balconies
Colorful building on the plaza
Colorful building

 

Immaculate Mary Church

Immaculate Mary Church (Iglesia María Inmaculada) sits at one end of the plaza. It looks simple from the outside but has an interesting color scheme on the inside. The church was built in 1905 but the façade we see today dates back to 1940.

Immaculate Mary Church in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Immaculate Mary Church
Immaculate Mary Church
Immaculate Mary Church
Nave of Immaculate Mary Church in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Nave

 

Giraldo’s Plaza

Also on the main plaza is Giraldo’s Plaza. It’s a small shopping center filled with jewelry stores, sweet shops, craft shops, and has a small restaurant at the end.

Giraldo's Plaza
Giraldo’s Plaza
Giraldo's Plaza in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Giraldo’s Plaza
Restaurant at Giraldo's Plaza
Restaurant


 

The Street Stopped in Time

The street running north of the plaza from the church is called La Calle del Tiempo Detenido, which roughly translates to the “Street Stopped in Time”. It’s the most beautiful street in town and where you can find lots of souvenir and craft shops as well as restaurants.

The Street Stopped in Time in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
The Street Stopped in Time
The Street Stopped in Time in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
The Street Stopped in Time
Building on the Street Stopped in Time
Building

These buildings are filled mostly with souvenir and craft shops along with a few restaurants. There are also a couple of small shopping centers with internal courtyards. They have cafés and interesting stores.

The Street Stopped in Time in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
The Street Stopped in Time
Colorful buildings
Colorful buildings

Pay special attention to the beautiful doors and balconies. They really make it one of the most scenic streets not only in Filandia but in the entire Coffee Region.

A colorful door
A colorful door
Balconies along the Street Stopped in Time
Balconies along the Street Stopped in Time
Colorful buildings near the end of the Street Stopped in Time
Colorful buildings near the end of the street

My only wish is that the street becomes pedestrianized, at least on weekends, to add to the atmosphere and make it safer for visitors. The road has been fixed and the sidewalks have been widened, removing the ugly planters seen in a few photos above. Currently, the road is open to traffic.

House and classic car in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
House and classic car

 

Plazoleta de los Toldos

Along the Street Stopped in Time is Plazoleta de los Toldos. It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but inside is a covered plaza full of tables served by a few different cafés and restaurants. There are also rotating scenes where visitors can take photos.

Plazoleta de los Toldos
Plazoleta de los Toldos
Plazoleta de los Toldos
Plazoleta de los Toldos
Plazoleta de los Toldos in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Plazoleta de los Toldos
Photo op
Photo op

Also surrounding the plaza are several souvenir shops. Some have jewelry, sweets, and other goods, while another sells handmade wooden toys and games. Near the entrance is a mural.

Store at Plazoleta de los Toldos
Store
Mural at Plazoleta de los Toldos in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Mural

 

Atrapa Sueños

At the next corner is Atrapa Sueños (Dream Catcher), which is an indigenous-themed shopping area. There are a few different booths selling locally made goods, fragrances, pottery, artwork, dream catchers, and more. Their mission is to continue the legacy of the indigenous people of the region.

Atrapa Sueños in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Atrapa Sueños

In addition to the shops, there’s a café with a sitting area decorated with a few household antiques.

Sitting area at Atrapa Sueños
Sitting area


 

Grandparents’ House Museum

The Grandparents’ House Museum (Museo Casa de los Abuelos) is a place where you can see antiques once used by locals. There are phonographs, cameras, traditional bedroom furniture, cutlery, and more. They also have temporary art exhibits. Admission is free (as of March 2024) but voluntary donations are accepted. The museum is located on a cross street before the last block on the end of the Street Stopped in Time. It’s housed in a former schoolhouse.

Grandparents' House Museum in Filandia Quindío, Colombia
Grandparents’ House Museum

 

Mirador

At the very end of the street is a mirador (viewpoint) with views of the countryside. If you want to capitalize on the views, have lunch at either Helena Adentro or Tuk Tuk, two restaurants flanking the mirador.

Mirador
Mirador

Unfortunately, the views have been ruined by locals trying to capitalize on tourism. Someone decided to cut into the landscape and destroyed the hills directly across from the mirador.

View from the mirador in May 2019
View from the mirador in May 2019
View from the mirador in January 2024
View from the mirador in January 2024

 

La Casa del Mirador

If you walk to the end of the Street Stopped in Time and turn right, you’ll come to La Casa del Mirador. Inside are 18 specialty shops selling crafts, clothing, sweets, art, jewelry, coffee, and souvenirs.

La Casa del Mirador in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
La Casa del Mirador
Shops at La Casa del Mirador in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Shops

At the back of the building, there’s an outdoor patio surrounded by cafés, sweet shops, and snack bars. It’s been rebranded as Mirador Encanto and “Disneyfied” to play off the success of the animated film Encanto. You now have to pay COP$10,000 per person (as of August 2024) to enter this tacky tourist trap. It’s not worth it.

Outdoor patio in 2019 at La Casa del Mirador in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Outdoor patio in 2019
Outdoor patio in 2019 at La Casa del Mirador
Outdoor patio in 2019
Mirador Encanto in January 2024 at La Casa del Mirador in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Mirador Encanto in January 2024

If you do pay, at the very end is a gorgeous view of the countryside. It’s possible to spot Pereira and a few other towns in the region.

View from the Mirador Encanto at La Casa del Mirador in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
View from the Mirador Encanto
View from the Mirador Encanto
View from the Mirador Encanto


 

Bejuco to Basket Interpretation Center

Filandia is famous for its handmade baskets made of bejuco, a strong fiber found in the forest near town. The Bejuco to Basket Interpretation Center (Centro de Interpretación del Bejuco al Canasto), where you can learn about the basket weaving process and the traditional basket weavers. It’s located off the southwest corner of the plaza, but all information is in Spanish. Admission is COP$5,000 per person (as of August 2024).

Bejuco to Basket Interpretation Center
Bejuco to Basket Interpretation Center
Basket weaver's workshop at the Bejuco to Basket Interpretation Center in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Basket weaver’s workshop
Bejuco to Basket Interpretation Center in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Bejuco to Basket Interpretation Center
Bejuco to Basket Interpretation Center in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Bejuco to Basket Interpretation Center

If you would like to purchase baskets, there are several places in town and on the road to the Mirador Colina Iluminada.

 

Exploring the Rest of Filandia

Wandering around the rest of the town doesn’t take very long because it’s quite small. There are some very nice colorful buildings on most of the streets, and you’ll spot several more beautiful balconies.

Balconies in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Balconies
Buildings in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Buildings in Filandia
Balconies
Balconies

The street running south of the plaza from the church is especially beautiful and has some colorful homes and buildings. They’re filled with shops and restaurants for about a block.

Street off the plaza
Street off the plaza
Colorful house
Colorful house
Colorful door
Colorful door


 

Mirador Colina Iluminada

On the ouskirts of Filandia is the Mirador Colina Iluminada. It’s a tall tower you can climb for 360° views of the entire Coffee Region. The tower is 27 meters tall and has become one of the biggest tourist attractions in the area.

Mirador Colina Iluminada
Mirador Colina Iluminada

The cost of admission is COP$12,000 (as of September 2024) and it’s usually open until 7pm. There’s a winding path to the top of the hill where you can climb the stairs of the mirador. A booth selling snacks and drinks can be found near the entrance to the tower and more are along the path.

Mirador Colina Iluminada
Mirador Colina Iluminada

As you climb to the top, there are panels indicating which towns you can see from the tower. There are also panels with stories about Filandia and local legends. If you look down the center of the tower, there’s a butterfly at the bottom.

Mirador Colina Iluminada in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
The tower
Butterfly at the Mirador Colina Iluminada in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Butterfly

From the top, it’s possible to spot several cities and towns in three departments of the region, including Quindío, Risaralda, and Valle del Cauca. The largest cities visible are Pereira and Armenia, which are the two cities nearest Filandia. You can also get amazing views of the rolling green hills and Filandia itself.

Looking at the rolling green hills from the Mirador Colina Iluminada in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Looking at the rolling green hills
View from the top of the Mirador Colina Iluminada in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
View from the top
View of Filandia from Mirador Colina Iluminada in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
View of Filandia
Closer look at Filandia from Mirador Colina Iluminada in Filandia, Quindío, Colombia
Closer look at Filandia

 

Map of Filandia

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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