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Geghard (Գեղարդ), or Geghardavank (Գեղարդավանք), is a monastery in Armenia. It’s in a spectacular setting surrounded by cliffs, and visitors often combine it with a trip to nearby Garni.
Introduction to Geghard
Geghard was founded by St. Gregory the Illuminator in the early 4th century at the site of a cave with a spring where pre-Christian locals would worship. It was originally called Ayrivank, which translates to Monastery of the Caves. Monks would live in small caves on the cliffs surrounding the site, many accessible only by ladder or rope.
The first monastery was destroyed by the Arabs in 923. It was later sacked by the Mongols followed by the Timurids, and destroyed by earthquakes in 1127, 1679, and 1840.
The current monastery was built in the 13th century by brothers Zakare II (d. 1212) and Ivane I Zakarian (d. 1227), and it became an important place of pilgrimage for Armenian Christians for the relics it once held. The walls surrounding the complex date to the 12th and 13th centuries.
The name Geghard, which translates to spear, was first recorded in 1250. It refers to the Holy Lance, also known as the Spear of Longinus, that was once kept there. The lance was said to have pierced the side of Jesus during the Crucifixion and was brought to Armenia by the Apostle Jude for safekeeping. It’s now on display in the treasury of the Echmiadzin Cathedral. The monastery became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000.
Walking Up to the Monastery
Visitors to Geghard are greeted by several women selling sweet sujukh and an Armenian sweet bread called Gata. They also sell souvenirs.
The short path leading up to the monastery is lined with a few khachkars (cross stones). As you approach the gate to the complex, you’ll find some more khachkars carved directly into the cliffside. They were created in the 4th century shortly after the foundation of the monastery. You’ll also see a few structures, caves, and chapels.
Next to the gate, you’ll see a few shelves carved into the cliffside. Visitors make a wish and throw pebbles at them. If the pebbles land on the shelves, your wish will supposedly come true.
Courtyard of Geghard
The gate opens to the courtyard of the monastery. On the right side are residential and functional rooms while directly ahead is the main church. The rooms are one or two stories high and were rebuilt in the 17th century and again between 1968 and 1971. A stairway behind the church leads up to an area full of khachkars, cross reliefs, and a chapel.
Katoghike Church
The Katoghike Church, or main church, was built in 1215. It’s partially built into the cliffside and features fine carvings on the southern façade. The entrance contains representations of grapes and pomegranates, doves, and Armenian inscriptions. Above is a relief of a lion attacking an ox. The church can also be accessed from the gavit. That entrance also has intricate carvings and inscriptions.
The church is on a cross plan and topped by a dome on a square base. There are several inscriptions on the walls recording donations to the monastery.
Gavit
The gavit, or narthex, was built between 1215 and 1225 and attached to the west side of the church. The entrance is partially hidden by the cliff and is decorated with floral patterns. The wooden door features an Armenian inscription as well as an image of the Holy Lance.
The gavit was used for meetings, classes, and receiving pilgrims and visitors. It consists of four columns supporting a stone roof with a lighting aperture in the center.
Rock-Cut Church
The rock-cut church, attached to the northwest side of the gavit, was carved around 1240. It was originally a cave with a spring and is on a cross plan with a stalactite dome. An inscription records the architect as Galdzak. Inside is an apse with an alter and three niches, each with a different style arch.
Also in the rock-cut church you’ll find the spring. The basin sits in a niche with crosses carved into the walls. Water flows from the basin through a channel cut along the floor.
Main Zhamatun
On the northeast corner of the gavit is the entrance to the main zhamatun, which is a square chamber cut directly into the rock in 1283. It was commissioned by Armenian prince Prosh Khaghbakian (d. 1283) as the monastery and mausoleum of the Proshyan family and likely built by Galdzak. The floor contains burial vaults.
On the north wall is a stunning relief of a ram’s head with a chain in its mouth. The chain is wrapped around the necks of two lions. An eagle holding a lamb in its claws is below the lions. This symbol may be the Proshyan coat-of-arms.
On the east wall, next to the entrance to the Proshyan Chapel, are reliefs of two crosses. There are also reliefs of sirens and human figures, likely members of the Proshyan family.
Proshyan Chapel
The door in the east wall of the main zhamatun opens to the Proshyan Chapel, also built in 1283. It’s in the shape of a cross with curved corners and topped by a dome. The dome and walls are decorated with reliefs and a khachkar sits in the apse. Notice the relief of a goat on the stairs up to the altar, and the human figures on the cross left of the apse.
Upper Zhamatun
A stairway outside the entrance to the gavit leads up to an area full of khachkars and a rock-cut chapel. There, you’ll also find the long corridor leading to the upper zhamatun. Along the corridor are several crosses cut into the wall.
The upper zhamatun was carved in 1288 as the tomb of Papak Proshyan and his wife Ruzukana. Also buried inside are princes Merik and Grigor among others, but the tombstones have disappeared. The chamber has four massive columns with arches supporting a dome with a lighting aperture in the center.
Several crosses and inscriptions are carved into the the walls and columns and a hole in the corner allows you to look down into the main zhamatun below. The acoustics are incredible, and we were treated to a short concert by a choral group.
Outside the East Gate of Geghard
Finally, if you walk outside the east gate of Geghard, you’ll find a bridge crossing the Azat River as well as a section used for ritual animal offerings, or matagh. It typically involves a lamb or rooster slaughtered to ask God for forgiveness or health, or as an act of thanksgiving. The meat must be eaten before sunset and shared among seven relatives or neighbors.
From there, you can walk back to the parking lot down a path along the walls of the monastery.
