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Mount Nemrut National Park (Nemrut Dağı Milli Parkı) is one of the most famous historic sites in Turkey. It encompasses the most important monuments of the Kingdom of Commagene.
Introduction to Mount Nemrut National Park
Commagene (Κομμαγηνή) was a Greco-Persian kingdom that lasted from 163 BC to 72 AD, when it fell to the Romans. The capital was in Samosata (now Samsat) and included the cities of Perrhe, Marash, and Doliche.
Mount Nemrut, famous for its colossal statues, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. The mountain and its environs became a national park the following year. The national park covers 13,850 hectares, and features a collection of monuments built by the Kingdom of Commagene, the Romans, Seljuks, and Mamluks.
When to Visit Mount Nemrut National Park
The park is open year-round, but the best time to visit is between mid-April and mid-November. This pretty much guarantees you’ll be able to see all the monuments. Conditions can be quite harsh during the winter, and Mount Nemrut may be covered with snow making it impossible to access.
Getting to Mount Nemrut National Park
The nearest cities to the park are Adıyaman to the southwest, Kahta to the south, and Malatya to the north. Getting there from Adıyaman and Kahta are the easiest and most popular options while Malatya is further away. If you don’t have your own transportation, you can join guided tours or hire a taxi from either of the three cities. Most tours will stop at the other monuments scattered throughout the park.
I highly recommend renting a car to make the most out of your visit. That way, you’ll be able to stop at all the monuments and take your time to enjoy them. We drove in from Urfa via Adıyaman and were able to see the entire park as well as Perrhe.
You can get to Mount Nemrut using public transportation but I don’t recommend it. It’s time consuming and will make seeing the other monuments in the park a little harder. First, you’ll have to take a minibus from Adıyaman to Kahta. Once in Kahta, you can either hire a taxi or jump on an infrequent minibus to the village of Karadut, which is 12 kilometers from the entrance to Mount Nemrut. Your accommodation can arrange for a taxi to take you to the entrance or you can hike up.
Where to Stay at Mount Nemrut National Park
If you’re not on a group tour or heading in for a day trip, you’ll find plenty of accommodation in Kahta and the village of Karadut. Those are by far the best places to stay for independent travelers.
Işık Pansiyon
At the end of the day, we drove down Mount Nemrut to stay at Işık Pansiyon in Karadut. It’s a simple place run by a very friendly man. Rooms are clean and comfortable, but the bathroom has a wet room rather than a shower. It was peaceful at night and a little chilly. Prices are more than reasonable.
Where to Eat at Mount Nemrut National Park
Choices are limited on food but you’ll find a few places on your way up to Mount Nemrut.
Café Rome
We stopped into Café Rome, which is in Kocahisar across from the entrance to Kahta Castle. It’s run by a friendly Kurdish family and doubles as a guesthouse. We had fresh watermelon, local cheese and olives, lentil soup, and Kurdish coffee.
While the food is fresh and amazing, it’s terribly overpriced. We ended up paying double or triple what these items normally cost. We also didn’t appreciate the hard sell for items in their gift shop such as books and food products we wouldn’t use or get through customs. Not surprisingly, those were overpriced, too. Beware and please ask about prices before sitting down to eat.
Işık Pansiyon Restaurant
In Karadut, there was no place to get any dinner other than our accommodation, Işık Pansiyon. The owner offered a delicious grilled chicken and bulgur served in the garden. The price was fair.
Karakuş Tumulus
The first monument we visited at Mount Nemrut National Park is the Karakuş Tumulus (Karakuş Tümülüsü). It’s on the western end of the park and just 12 kilometers (7.5 miles) from Kahta. It’s open daily and admission is free (as of August 2024). Give yourself about 20 minutes to enjoy the site.
The Karakuş Tumulus is a funerary monument built by King Mithridates II of Commagene (d. 20 BC) for his mother Isias, sisters Antiochis and Laodicea, and niece Aka. It’s the only known funerary monument built for the royal women of Commagene.
The tumulus measures 110 meters in diameter and was originally 30 meters in height. That has fallen to just 21 meters today. It was originally surrounded by groups of six or nine columns, four of which have survived. The vault of the tomb was looted sometime after the Roman Empire annexed Commagene. Excavations were carried out by German archaeologist Friedrich Karl Dörner (1911-1992).
Eagle Column
The Eagle Column, which gives the Karakuş Tumulus its name, is on the south side. It stands 7.18 meters high and the eagle statue is 2.54 meters. The column is in the Doric order and has a total of seven drums made of dolomite
limestone.
Dexiosis Column
Continuing clockwise around the tumulus is the Dexiosis Column. It’s topped with a relief depicting a farewell scene between Mithridates II and Laodicea. It’s the only surviving column on the northwest side of the tumulus. The inscription in ancient Greek reads:
The Great King Mithridates, the son of the Great King Antiochus and Queen Isias, had this monument built in the eternal memory of Queen Laodicea, the king’s sister and the wife of Orodes, the King of Kings.
Next to the Dexiosis Column is a badly preserved statue of a lion standing 2.4 meters. The column it belonged to has not survived.
Bull Columns
The Bull Columns are on the east side of the tumulus. They’re made of dolomite limestone and consist of six drums in the Doric order. One of the columns is topped with a statue of a bull. The inscriptions on both columns read:
The Great King Mithridates had this Hierothesion built for his mother Isias, his sister Antiochis and Antiochis’s daughter Aka.
Severan Bridge
A short drive north of the Karakuş Tumulus is the Severan Bridge, also known as the Cendere Bridge (Cendere Köprüsü). The bridge was built over the Cendere (Chabinas) River around the year 200 by the Legio XVI Gallica.
The bridge is 120 meters (390 feet) long and 7 meters (23 feet) wide. It has a single arch 34.2 meters (112 feet) high, and may be the second largest existing Roman arch bridge. It was dedicated to Roman Emperor Septimius Severus, his second wife Julia Domna, and their sons Caracalla and Geta.
The Severan Bridge was restored in 1997 and used until recently for vehicular traffic weighing 5 tons or less. It’s now closed to vehicles and a new road bridge was built 500 meters (550 yards) to the east.
On the other side of the bridge is a beautiful canyon. Locals visit and treat it as a recreational area. They have picnics, wade in the river, and sit in the shade.
Columns on the Severan Bridge
Columns dedicated to Septimius Severus and Julia Domna stand at the southern end of the bridge. They’re about 9 or 10 meters tall. The inscriptions read:
Emperor Caesar Lucius Septimius Severus Pius Perinax, Arabicus, Adiabenicus, Parthicus, most gracious emperor, supreme priest, carrier of tribunician power for the 12th time, emperor eight times, consul twice, pro-consul and the great and benevolent emperor of the four cities of the Commagene.
Julia Domna Augusta, the mother of the military camps and the four cities of the Commagene.
A column dedicated to Caracalla is at the northern end of the bridge. There was another column dedicated to Geta but it was removed after he was assassinated by Caracalla, who ordered damnatio memoriae on Geta.
There are also a few tablets with inscriptions on the bridge. Unfortunately, there was no interpretive panel or translation available during my visit.
Kahta Castle
Kahta Castle (Kahta Kalesi), or Yenikale, is just down the road from the Severan Bridge. It’s perched atop a steep mountain next to the village of Kocahisar, which corresponds to old Kahta. Admission is free (as of October 2024) and it’s open daily.
Although the castle is a typical Mamluk structure with Byzantine, Artuqid, and Seljuk influences, it was originally built during the Kingdom of Commagene. It was partially repaired in the 1970s, restored in 2012, and again in 2022.
Kahta Castle has walls on the north, east, and west sides. It consists of a palace, mosque, dungeon, front defense structure, bastions, hidden stairway, dovecote, and cisterns.
Entrance to Kahta Castle
Above the entrance is an inscription dated 1286, bearing the name of the Mamluk Sultan Qalawun (c. 1222-1290). It reads:
Our Lord, the mighty sultan, the ruler of the poor people. the sultan of the Arabs and Persians, the partner of the commander of the believers, glorify al-Malik al-Sultan Sayfu’d-Dunya ve’d-din Qalawun al-Salihi! May Allah reward him for his victory! May Allah keep his shadow forever in the time of Shamseddin Karasungur al-Cevkendar al-Mansuri, the ruler of the amirs. In the last ten days of the month of Cemaziyel of 685 (August 14-22, 1286) was built by the needy, poor, miserable servant of Almighty Allah, Asbek al-Devadar al-Shamsi.
Inner Castle
A few steps past the entrance to the castle is the gate to the inner castle, which contains the palace. Inside the gate are steps leading up to a courtyard.
From the north walls of the inner castle are fantastic views of the village of Kocahisar below. There’s also a bastion with an inscription above the door and two windows inside.
On the south side is a glass observation deck jutting out over the canyon and Kahta Stream. The views of the valley to the west and of the mountains to the east are spectacular.
Palace
The palace sits at the top of the castle and has a Mamluk architectural style. It’s mostly destroyed but the building had three floors. The inscription on the gate contains the name of Melik Nasır. It’s possible to reach the rock-carved steps, but the palace is closed to visitors for safety purposes. It was restored in 2020.
Mosque
Across from the gate to the inner castle is the mosque, which was built with cut stone. It’s a small rectangular space with a vaulted ceiling and a flat roof. The entrance is through a large pointed arch on the east side.
An Arabic inscription on the lintel of the window on the west wall reads:
Our Lord El-Sultan El-Malik El-Alem El-Adil ordered the construction of this blessed bastion in the first ten days of month Reb’ul-sani of 690 (3-12 April 1291) by the need Salah’ud-Dunya ved-din Halil, the poor servant poor Akkuş El-Aydumuriye.
Dungeon
A stairway near the mosque leads down to the dungeon, which is a square space measuring 5.8 x 5.5 meters. It’s covered by a cross vault and has barrel-vaulted iwans with 2.25 meter high windows. The dungeon was restored by German archaeologist Friedrich Karl Dörner (1911-1992) between 1968 and 1975.
Hidden Stairway
After passing over a steel staircase, you’ll find yourself on a narrow ridge. Turn around and you’ll see the entrance to a hidden stairway.
The stairway provided access to the other side of Kahta Stream via a series of secret passages. They were used as an escape route in case of attack. It also led to dovecotes built to raise pigeons used for communication and to deliver mail during the Mamluk period. There are 32 roosting places.
While the stairway is open to the public, use extreme caution if you decide to walk down. It’s very sketchy. I decided I’d rather not fall to my death and stayed at the top.
Front Defense Structure
The narrow ridge leads to the front defense structure, which is a section separated from the rest of the castle. There’s a forecourt on the east side with a width between 4.5 and 5.5 meters.
The front defense structure has two floors. It consists of conjoining cells in a north-south direction. The three best preserved cells are on the south side.
There are wonderful views of the valley towards the Karakuş Tumulus from the window in the south cell. You can also look back and get a nice perspective of the main part of the castle.
Devil’s Bridge
In the shadow of Kahta Castle is the Devil’s Bridge (Şeytan Köprüsü), which was built during the Seljuk period. It crosses the Kahta Stream and is surrounded by beautiful scenery.
Arsameia
A few minutes after turning down the road leading to Mount Nemrut you’ll come to Arsameia. It was founded in the 2nd century BC and is thought to be one of Commagene’s cult sites. Admission is free (as of October 2024) and it’s open daily.
Cult Area
Arsameia contained the summer palace and administrative center of King Antiochus I as well as the mausoleum of Mithridates I. A ceremonial road 3.6 meters wide led to the palace and cult area. Unfortunately, we couldn’t reach any of these areas. The road was closed for safety reasons during our visit.
The ceremonial road was lined with inscriptions and pedestals. In the cult area are reliefs of gods shaking hands with kings. Mosaics, architectural fragments, sculpture fragments of animals, and the head of a statue belonging to Antiochus I were also discovered.
Even more impressive is the longest ancient Greek inscription in Anatolia, which sheds light on topics such as the founding of the city, Commagene laws, the kingdom’s bloodline, architecture of the region, and religious structures and ceremonies. A tunnel 158.1 meters long is located just below the inscription, but its purpose is unclear.
Second Stele
The only relief we were able to see is the Second Stele, which is a short walk from the entrance to the site. It depicts a handshake (dexiosis) between Antiochus I and the god Apollo. The scene communicates to citizens that Antiochus was a member of the pantheon of gods. A bench and altar for offerings sits in front of the base. There are also some nice views from the platform in front of the stele.
Mount Nemrut
Mount Nemrut (Nemrut Dağı) is the crown jewel of Mount Nemrut National Park. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, it’s one of the most mysterious and spectacular of all the archaeological sites in Turkey.
Mount Nemrut is 2,134 meters (7,001 feet) high. The summit contains the tomb of Antiochus I built in the 1st century BC as well as several colossal statues. The tumulus is 49 meters (161 feet) tall and 152 meters (499 feet) in diameter. It was covered with loose rock, likely to protect the tomb from grave robbers.
Mount Nemrut was first excavated in 1881 by German engineer Karl Sester. American archaeologist Theresa Goell (1901-1985) dedicated her life to the site. She first visited in 1947 and began campaigns starting in 1954. Although the tomb of Antiochus has never been discovered, archaeologists still believe he was buried there.
Visiting Mount Nemrut
Mount Nemrut is open daily and admission for foreigners is €10 (as of October 2024). The best time of year to visit is between mid-April and mid-November, and the most popular times of day are sunrise and sunset. Check the official website for more info.
Tickets are available at the visitor center where there’s a café, a terrace, and bathrooms. After paying, show your tickets to the guard outside and proceed to the parking lot below the summit.
The visitor center also contains a small museum with information about Mount Nemrut and models of other monuments at Mount Nemrut National Park. It’s not very impressive overall.
Hiking Up Mount Nemrut
Once at the parking lot, you have to hike up to the summit. There are routes to both the Eastern and Western Terrace that connect at the top and form a loop. It takes roughly 30-45 minutes to reach one of the terraces and can be strenuous with the altitude. Pace yourself and take plenty of water.
The first section is paved with concrete. As you get closer to the summit, the path becomes rocky and uneven. There are a few points where it’s a little steep and slippery, especially if it’s cold and icy, so take your time and try not to roll an ankle. You’ll also find some spots along the way to sit, rest, and enjoy the scenery.
Eastern Terrace of Mount Nemrut
The Eastern Terrace is the largest, most impressive, and best-preserved of the three terraces at Mount Nemrut. It measures 45 x 50 meters and is northeast of the tumulus.
The Eastern Terrace features colossal statues of kings and gods seated on thrones. They have Greek faces with Persian clothing and hairstyles. The bodies are roughly 8 to 9 meters high while the heads are 2.5 to 3.5 meters, including headwear. The heads were placed in front of their respective bodies in 2002.
Statues of the Eastern Terrace
The statues depict, from left to right, Antiochus I, Commagene, Zeus, Apollo, and Heracles. Smaller statues of lions and eagles are placed symmetrically on both sides.
The head of Antiochus I wasn’t discovered until 1953, when gravel was cleared in an attempt to read the inscription on the back of his statue. The body is intact until the shoulders and was built out of six layers of stone. He’s depicted carrying a bundle of branches.
Next is Commagene, the namesake of the kingdom and the goddess of fertility. she’s depicted wearing a headdress of pomegranates and grapes and holding fruit in her lap, representing fertility and abundance. Her head was intact atop the body when the site was discovered, but it fell after a lightning strike at the end of 1963. Commagene is only female figure in the row.
Zeus is in the center of the row of statues and larger in size than the others. The body is almost completely intact, made up of six layers of stone. He has a cloak over his shoulders and is holding a scroll in his hand. His head consists of two stone blocks with Persian headwear. The chin was broken at the time of discovery but it once had a beard.
The final two statues depict Apollo and Heracles, respectively. Apollo is dressed in a tunic and holds a bundle of branches. The body is made of five layers of stone. Heracles holds a stick and has a body made of six layers of stone.
Finally, statues of eagles and lions sit on either side of the row. The eagles represent the domination of the Kingdom of Commagene over the skies while the lion represents domination over the earth.
Stele Bases
On the north and south sides of the Eastern Terrace are rows of bases that once held a series of stelae. The bases are between 0.83 and 1.67 meters wide, 0.5 and 0.6 meters deep, and 0.47 meters high. The front sides were smoothly finished while the back sides were left rough.
The stelae contained reliefs of Antiochus’ Persian ancestors on the front. The backs recorded their names, titles, and genealogy inscribed in Greek. Nearly every stele has suffered severe erosion over the centuries and most of the inscriptions are now lost.
Fire Altar
Opposite the statues is the Fire Altar. It’s a stepped pyramid on a square platform measuring 13 x 13 meters. It stands about 1.5 meters above the terrace level and has 4 steps on all 4 sides.
American archaeologist Theresa Goell (1901-1985) restored the altar in 1973. Local stones were used for the repairs, which were based on original construction techniques. A statue of a lion stands next to the altar.
Northern Terrace of Mount Nemrut
The Northern Terrace is northwest of the tumulus and slightly closer to the Eastern Terrace. It’s rectangular in shape and topped by a series of sandstone stele bases.
The Northern Terrace contains 42 original stelae and 57 bases. They’re heavily eroded and the inscriptions cannot be read. There are two openings into the row of bases, which served as a ceremonial road between the Eastern and Western Terraces.
Along the path outside the Northern Terrace you’ll find a modern art installation of a replica statue head. A boardwalk path connects to the other two terraces.
Western Terrace of Mount Nemrut
The Western Terrace has been heavily affected by seismic activity and erosion. It’s approximately 10 meters below the level of the Eastern Terrace due to the natural inclination of the mountain. It measures about 50 x 30 meters and has an L-shaped retaining wall on the west side. There are also a few small altars.
One of the unique features of the Western Terrace is a lion horoscope relief. It’s considered the oldest horoscope discovered to date. The relief contains a map of the moon and stars dated July 7, 62 BC, which is the date Antiochus I ascended the throne. It’s 1.75 meters high and 2.4 meters wide. There are a total of 19 stars on and around the body of the lion along with Mars, Mercury, and Jupiter.
Statues of the Western Terrace
The Western Terrace is similar to the Eastern Terrace, featuring nearly identical thrones and colossal statues in the same sequence. The thrones are not well preserved.
The heads of each statue are haphazardly strewn about the site, sitting among fragments of the thrones. You’ll also find statues of the same protective animals, eagles and lions.
Stele Bases
You’ll find stele bases on the south and west sides of the terrace. Stelae of the Persian ancestors of Antiochus I were on the south side, and his Macedonian ancestors were on the west side directly opposite the statues.
Reliefs
Finally, four reliefs of depicting Antiochus I shaking hands with the gods Commagene, Zeus, Apollo, and Heracles can be found on the south side of the Western Terrace. They were discovered in their original positions by German archaeologist Friedrich Karl Dörner (1911-1992). The reliefs were restored in 2003.
