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Midyat is a town in the heart of the Tur Abdin in Southeastern Anatolia. It’s known for its old town full of beautiful stone buildings.
Introduction to Midyat
Midyat was an important Assyrian settlement as early as the 9th century BC. It was the only town with an ethnic Assyrian majority in the Ottoman Empire, made up of Syriac Orthodox, Chaldean Catholic, and Protestants. Although the local population suffered during the Assyrian genocide, Midyat remained the largest concentration of Christians in Turkey outside Istanbul until 1979.
At that time, an Assyrian mayor of a nearby village was assassinated and replaced with a Kurd against the people’s will. Kurdish locals then started migrating to areas that had been traditionally Assyrian, causing an exodus of Assyrians to Istanbul and abroad. By 1999, only 10% of the original 50,000 Assyrians in Midyat and the Tur Abdin remained.
Today, only 1% of the population of Midyat is Assyrian and all five of the active churches are Syriac Orthodox. The rest of the population consists of Kurds and Mhallami Arabs.
We enjoyed an entire afternoon wandering through the old town and had a wonderful evening. It’s definitely less touristy than nearby Mardin. In addition to being a picturesque town with fascinating stone buildings, Midyat makes a fantastic base to explore the villages of the Tur Abdin.
Getting to Midyat
Midyat is easy to reach from the nearby city of Mardin by bus in about an hour. You can also visit as part of a guided tour of the town and Tur Abdin originating in Mardin. The nearest airport is Mardin Airport (MQM), which has flights from both Istanbul airports, Izmir, and Ankara (as of September 2024).
Getting Around Midyat
You can easily explore the old town on foot. If you want to see the monasteries in the Tur Abdin and other attractions outside town, it’s best to have your own car. Otherwise, you can join a guided tour.
Where to Stay in Midyat
There are some great places to choose from in the old town catering to every budget. We spent one night in a mid-range hotel.
Mons Masius Boutique Hotel
We stayed at Mons Masius Boutique Hotel in the heart of the old town. It’s situated in a 6th century Assyrian stone mansion and features a café and rooftop terrace with a restaurant.
There are only five rooms at Mons Masius, each one uniquely decorated to reflect the history of Midyat. My room was very comfortable and clean. Overall I had a great night of sleep.
If there’s one problem with the hotel, it was trying to leave in the morning. Our plan was to have breakfast at 8am and get an early start visiting the monasteries of the Tur Abdin. However, when we went downstairs, there was nobody to be found. We decided to just hit the road and grab something along the way but we found out we were locked in. In the end, we had to search for the keys and let ourselves out. Other than that issue, I’d be happy to stay there again.
Where to Eat in Midyat
We had one dinner in Midyat. No matter where you eat, I highly recommend a rooftop terrace to soak in the atmosphere and fantastic scenery.
Beyaz Konak
Our dinner was at Beyaz Konak, which is a few steps from the center of town. It has a rooftop terrace with excellent views. Service is friendly and efficient, there’s a good selection on the menu, and the food is decent. I had the saç kavurma for my meal and it was delicious. Try the frozen fruit juices or milkshakes.
What to Buy in Midyat
Midyat is famous for its Syriac handicrafts, including carpets, towels, and filigree jewelry. You’ll also find a handful of wine shops selling Syriac wine. We popped in and had a few samples but let’s just say we were less than impressed.
As far as souvenirs, you’ll find several shops and stalls along the street in front of the Midyat Guest House. They’re also in next to the old town square. If you’re looking for jewelry, there are several stores leading from the old town square to the modern center of Midyat.
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Midyat Guest House
The most popular attraction in town is the Midyat Guest House (Midyat Konuk Evi). It’s one of the most important examples of local stone architecture. It sits on the highest point of the old town. Admission is 50₺ (as of September 2024).
The ground floor dates to 1850 while additions were made in 1930, 1948, and 1950, bringing it to four stories. It was designed by architect Süleyman Garibo. The most important craftsmen of the time, including Malke Brahem, Ilyas Maksi Elyas, and Gelo Zero, completed the stonework. The building has a courtyard in the center with a café on the ground floor.
On the upper floors you’ll find finely decorated rooms. The balcony on the third floor was specially built for a speech to be delivered by Turkish Prime Minister Adnan Menderes (1899-1961), but instead he was deposed in a coup and later executed.
The guest house has become an important symbol of Midyat. It has hosted several Turkish and foreign television series and films. The Municipality of Midyat restored the building and opened it to the public for tourism.
Exploring the mansion doesn’t take long and it’s worth visiting to climb to the terrace for the fantastic views. From there, it’s possible to spot a few of the churches in Midyat, including Mor Şarbel and the Bethil Church.
Filigree Museum
About a block south of the old town square is the Filigree Museum (Telkari Müzesi). It opened on December 10, 2023, to display the finest examples of filigree produced in the region. The museum building belonged to a local Assyrian family, the Gelle Hirmız family, and was built around 1850. In addition to the museum, there’s a workshop where visitors can observe masters producing filigree. Admission is 30₺ (as of June 2024).
Gelüşke Han
Across the street is Gelüşke Han (Gelüşke Hanı), which is a caravanserai built in 1903 by Assyrian resident Musa Samas. It was used as a barn and slaughterhouse and also provided accommodation for traders who came to Midyat. Between 1950 and 1970, it served as the town’s market. The building, which has 20 rooms on the ground floor, was renovated and converted to a restaurant.
Midyat Caves
Around the corner you’ll find the Midyat Caves (Midyat Mağaraları). They’re part of the first settlements in the town and date back roughly 2,000 years. In fact, just about every house in Midyat is built atop a cave, but of course many have been updated with modern necessities. These particular caves sit underneath a building serving as a restaurant. Admission is 30₺ (as of September 2024).
There are three interconnected chambers filled with antique furniture and goods, including kitchenware, appliances, and tapestries. If you’re allergic to mold, I wouldn’t recommend visiting. It’s musty down there.
Exploring the Old Town
Besides the few attractions, I really enjoyed walking around the old town of Midyat. It’s small and you can pretty much cover all the streets in less than a couple hours.
The best thing to do is to admire the fine stonework. It’s more intricate than what you’ll find in neighboring Mardin. It seems like the buildings get more impressive as you work your way through town.
Pay special attention to the carvings around the windows and doors. They seem to have the most intricate carvings. The balconies are also beautiful to look at.
As far as the churches, they’re typically closed to the public. I wasn’t able to enter any of the few churches I passed by, but I could admire the stonework from the outside. The bell towers are the most impressive features.
Mor Hobil-Mor Abrohom Monastery
A kilometer east of the old town is Mor Hobil-Mor Abrohom Monastery (Mor Hobil-Mor Abrohom Manastırı). It was established in 481 by two monks who lived at Mor Gabriel Monastery. The complex consists of two churches and a Syriac Orthodox cemetery.
The monastery is still active but it’s usually closed to the public. We were only able to visit the beautiful garden, where we had a nice chat with some of the friendly caretakers.
