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Ani (Անի) is a ruined medieval Armenian city in Eastern Anatolia, right on the border with Armenia. It’s remote but well worth the effort to visit.
Introduction to Ani
Ani was first mentioned in the 5th century. It served as the capital of Bagratid Armenia from 961 to 1045, which covered much of present-day Armenia and eastern Turkey. Nicknamed the City of 1,001 Churches, it sat on several important trade routes. During its heyday, Ani was one of the world’s largest cities, with a population exceeding well over 100,000.
Ani surrendered to the Byzantines in 1045, who held it until 1064 when it was captured by the Seljuks under Alp Arslan (1029-1072). They plundered the city and massacred its inhabitants and ruled until 1072, when they sold it to the Shaddadids, a Kurdish dynasty and vassal of the Seljuks. Ani changed hands between the Shaddadids and the Kingdom of Georgia several times until 1201, when the Zakarid Armenians took control.
The city was sacked by the Mongols in 1236, suffered from a devastating earthquake in 1319, and again became part of Georgia in the early 14th century. This was followed by periods of rule under the Kara Koyunlu and Safavids before it became part of the Ottoman Empire in 1579.
The Mongol invasion and earthquake combined with a shift in the trade routes caused the decline of Ani, which was mostly abandoned by the 17th century. The last inhabitants, a group of monks at the Virgin’s Castle, left in 1735.
Excavations at Ani
Interest in Ani renewed in the early 19th century. The first excavations took place in 1892 when the region was under Russian control. They were led by Georgian archaeologist Nikolai Marr (1864–1934). Excavations resumed in 1904 and continued until 1917.
Ani briefly became part of the Republic of Armenia after World War I but it was captured by Turkey in 1920 and incorporated into the Republic of Turkey in 1921. From 1921 until 2004, the site was located in a restricted area and a permit from the Turkish Ministry of Culture was required to visit. Turkish archaeologists carried out their first excavations in 1944 and from 1964 to 1967. Work has continued uninterrupted since 1989.
Today, Ani is an important archaeological site open to all visitors as well as a cultural, religious, and national heritage symbol for Armenians. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site on July 15, 2016.
Visiting Ani
The Ani Archaeological Site is open daily. You can buy tickets from an office on the corner of a large plaza a short walk from the parking lot. Admission for foreigners is €8 (as of August 2024). An audioguide service is available, but most structures are signposted and contain information in English and Turkish. Check the official website for more info.
The site is massive – give yourself at least a half day to thoroughly explore the ruins. We spent almost three hours there and it could have been more. Take plenty of water as there are no facilities once you enter the site.
The nearest city to Ani is Kars. It’s about a 40 minute drive. If you don’t have your own transportation, you can hire a taxi to take you there and wait until you finish.
City Walls
To enter the archaeological site, visitors pass through the city walls. The double line of walls were built on the northern side of the city by King Smbat II during his reign in the late 10th century. Ani is naturally protected with ravines and rivers on the other three sides.
The inner walls are taller and feature semicircular towers. Later rulers renovated the walls by making them higher and thicker, and added more towers. 12th and 13th century Armenian inscriptions indicate some of the towers were funded by private donations.
Lion Gate
The Lion Gate was likely the main entrance to the city, and is the tourist entrance today. It was protected by two large towers. The tower on the west side of the gate is heavily damaged but the tower on the east side survives almost to its original height.
The gate opens to a road the runs 700 meters through the heart of Ani south to the Mosque of Manuchihr and on to the Citadel.
The Lion Gate is named for the relief of a lion to the west of the gate on the outside of the inner wall. It’s said that water once flowed from the lion’s mouth into a pool below.
On the tower to the right of the lion relief is an inscription indicating Emir Manuchihr ibn Shavur, the Shaddadid ruler of Ani from 1072 to 1118, repaired the walls. It reads:
In the name of Allah, the most gracious and the most merciful. The supreme emir, the valiant protector of the state, and the victorious commander, Manuchihr ibn Shavur, ordered this bastion to be built.
Oil Press
To avoid a large tour group, we followed the road to left after passing through the Lion Gate. The first point of interest is an oil press. It’s one of the largest of the many oil presses in Ani. It was built in the 11th century and used to extract oil from flax seeds. The press features a furnace, mill stone, and storage space.
Church of the Redeemer
Behind the oil press is the Church of the Redeemer. It was commissioned by Prince Ablgharib Pahlavid to house a fragment of the True Cross and was completed around 1035. The prince acquired the relic during a visit to Constantinople (now Istanbul).
The circular church is covered with inscriptions on the exterior. One inscription details that services should be held in the church every night until the Second Coming of Christ. Others indicated repairs or additions over time.
The Church of the Redeemer has eight apses, with the largest holding the altar. It was completely intact until the eastern half collapsed during a furious storm in 1955. Traces of Byzantine-style frescoes survive on the walls. They were painted by Armenian artist Sargis P’artchkans near the end of the 13th century.
Small Bath
A few steps from the Church of the Redeemer is a small bath. It was built in the early 13th century. It consists of a changing room, a hot room, a warm room, and a boiler room.
Church of St. Gregory of Tigran Honents
Down a steep path from the bath is the Church of St. Gregory of Tigran Honents, which is the best preserved building at Ani. It was commissioned by Tigran Honents, a wealthy merchant, and completed in 1215. The church is in a spectacular setting overlooking the gorge of the Akhuryan River.
The Church of St. Gregory of Tigran Honents, dedicated to St. Gregory the Illuminator, features ornate stone carvings of animals, floral, and geometric patterns around the entire church and dme. Inscriptions in Armenian can be found on the south and east sides.
Narthex of the Church of St. Gregory
In front of the church is a collapsed narthex with beautiful frescoes painted above the entrance to the nave. They’re in the Byzantine style and depict the Crucifixion and the Lamentation of the Virgin. The narthex was added to the church in 1251 and has a chapel attached to the north side.
Other frescoes on the north wall of the narthex haven’t survived due to harsh weather conditions. They depict Isaac, Jacob, Abraham, Adam, and the Virgin Mary guarding the Gates of Heaven. Figures of saints and prophets decorated the underside of the arch.
Nave of the Church of St. Gregory
The nave is on a rectangular plan and is separated into two sections. It’s topped by a large dome with a steep conical roof. Ani was under Georgian control at the time the church was built, and may have originally been a Georgian Orthodox church.
The walls of the nave are entirely covered by frescoes, likely created by Georgian artists. Sadly, the frescos have been badly damaged mostly in the early 1990s by both Turkish and foreign visitors. The two main themes are the Life of Christ in the eastern half of the church, and the Life of St. Gregory the Illuminator in the western half.
In the dome is a depiction of the Ascension and Christ carried by four angels, as well as the Virgin Mary, the Four Evangelists, and the Twelve Apostles.
Cathedral of Ani
Walking west towards the center of the archaeological site is the Cathedral of Ani. It’s the largest and most important building in the city. The official name was the Church of the Holy Mother of God (Surp Asdvadzadzin).
Construction on the cathedral started in 989 under King Smbat and it was completed by Queen Katranide, the wife of King Gagik, in either 1001 or 1010. Work had to be temporarily halted because the architect, Trdat (c. 940s – 1020), was summoned to Constantinople to repair the dome of Hagia Sophia, which had collapsed in an earthquake.
In 1064, after Sultan Alp Arslan conquered Ani for the Seljuks, he converted the cathedral to the Fethiye Mosque. A crescent was placed on the dome. In 1124, the Cathedral of Ani returned to use as a church when the Georgians took control of the city. The roof of the church collapsed during an earthquake in 1319, likely ending its function entirely.
Features of the Cathedral of Ani
The Cathedral of Ani was built of cut stone and is rectangular in shape. It’s 34.3 meters (113 feet) long and 21.9 meters (72 feet) wide. With the dome, it was originally about 38 meters (125 feet) high. There are three entrances to the church, on the north, south, and west sides. The pointed arches and compound piers were revolutionary, not appearing in Europe until at least the 12th century. The design may have influenced Gothic architecture.
The nave is divided into three sections. On the northwest corner is a square annex, and there’s a chapel and two burial chambers on the east wall. The Hripsime Chapel is on the southeast corner. Four piers supported the dome and arches supported the roof.
The floor of the apse is elevated from the rest of the church. Along the wall is a row of 10 niches with seats. Two-storied chambers were built on either side of the apse, accessible via a stairway from within the chancel. Traces of frescoes are on the wall, but they’ve been whitewashed.
Seljuk Cemetery
Just outside the Cathedral of Ani is a Seljuk cemetery unearthed in 2021 and 2022. It was established in the middle of the 11th century, making it one of the oldest Islamic cemeteries in Anatolia. It was also the first cemetery in the garden of a mosque.
Bazaar of Ani
Continuing west, the road intersects with the main north-south road running through Ani. Heading north along this road, all the way to the Lion Gate, is the bazaar.
The shops were built between the 11th and 13th centuries. They line both sides of the street and were of different shapes and sizes.
Bazaar Mosque
The Bazaar Mosque, which was discovered in 2020, is near the south end of the bazaar. It was built during the Seljuk or Shaddadid period in Ani, anywhere between the middle of the 11th century to the late 12th century. It has a rectangular plan and was likely covered with a wooden ceiling supported by wooden columns resting on two octagonal stone pedestals. The mihrab niche is in the middle of the south wall.
Mosque of Abu’l Muamran
Along the bazaar you’ll find the fallen minaret of the Mosque of Abu’l Muamran. The mosque was built between 1164 and 1200 by Shaddadid emir Abu’l Muamran. It was rectangular in shape and included a square tomb. The minaret, which fell in 1890, had a Persian inscription dated 1198/99 forbidding the sale of sheep and camels in front of the mosque. You can see the spiral staircase inside the minaret.
Mosque of Manuchihr
On the south end of the bazaar is the Mosque of Manuchihr (Menuçehr Camii). It was built overlooking the Akhuryan River by Shaddadid emir Manuchihr ibn Shavur (r. c. 1072-1118). The exact construction date is unknown. The building was used as a mosque by local muslims until 1906, when it was converted to a museum for early 20th century excavations by Nikolai Marr (1865-1934).
The mosque measures 18.5 x 15.7 meters and has a design that’s not typical of a mosque, including a basement. Also, the orientation is about 20° off what it should be. The western façade completely collapsed sometime before the end of the 19th century. The complex includes a fountain and tomb as well.
An octagonal minaret is on the northwest corner of the mosque. The word Bismillah is written on the north face. 93 stairs lead to the top.
The prayer hall, which has been restored, is rectangular in shape with a roof supported by six columns. It’s lit by five large windows. The design of the ceiling, decorated with stone inlays, is different in each section. The mihrab and minbar are on the south wall, and there’s a basement underneath the east side.
House II
Across from the mosque are the remains of a residential area. Standing out from the all the structures is House II, which was built sometime between the 11th and 12th century.
The house consists of a large courtyard in the center surrounded by several rooms. Arabic letters discovered on a mural indicate it belonged to a Muslim family.
Structures Along the Akhuryan River
From this point, there are excellent views overlooking the Akhuryan River, also known as the Arpaçay. It forms the border between Armenia and Turkey.
The Akhuryan originates in Armenia and is 186 kilometers (116 miles) long. Near Ani, it flows through a gorge with steep cliffs on both sides. Other great views are from the Cathedral of Ani and near the Church of St. Gregory.
Aside from the gorgeous scenery, there are a few historic structures you can spot along the river. They’re off limits to visitors due to restrictions by the Turkish Army. First is the bridge. It may have been built during the Bagratid period in the 10th or 11th century, or may date to the 13th century. The arch, which has collapsed, spanned over 30 meters.
Further east past the bridge is the Monastery of the Hripsimian Virgins, which was named after the virgin martyrs of St. Hripsime. It consisted of several buildings including a small chapel. The chapel may have been built as early as first half of the 11th century, but likely dates to the 13th century.
Unidentified Building
On the path to the Citadel of Ani is an unidentified ruined building. There’s no information posted at the site, but it looks to have been a church.
Citadel of Ani
On the south end of the archaeological site is the Citadel of Ani. It’s situated on a flat hill and was likely occupied during the Urartian period. The citadel was then developed during the Kamsakaran period in the early 4th century. The entrance at the northwest corner was built during the Shaddadid period.
Steep cliffs surround the Citadel of Ani on three sides. A set of walls runs along the west side with the remains of a few towers visible. The walls were likely built during the Kamsakaran dynasty in the 7th century, but they were repaired in the 13th century.
Palace at the Citadel of Ani
At the highest point of the citadel are the ruins of a large palace. It was the residence of the Bagratid rulers of Ani as well as their successors. The Kamsarakans may have also live there. The palace was likely abandoned by the end of the 15th century and looted for building materials.
The palace, which was excavated by Nikolai Marr (1865-1934) in 1908 and 1909, consisted of a long corridor running through the center. There was a small bathhouse, three so-called ceremonial halls, a cistern, and a church. Other than the church, it’s nearly impossible to make anything of the ruins. There’s no information posted at the site, and it’s mostly a collection of collapsed walls and fragments.
From the palace, there are fantastic views of the entire archaeological site of Ani. On a clear day, looking east towards Armenia, you can even spot the snow-capped peaks of Mount Aragats.
Church of the Citadel Palace
A small church sits on the east side of the palace. It’s unknown when the church was built but it was repaired several times over the centuries. Based on design elements common in the 6th and 7th centuries, it’s quite possible it’s the oldest surviving church at Ani.
Only the north wall of the church remains. The east wall had collapsed by the end of the 19th century and the south wall fell during an earthquake in 1966. Reliefs decorated the walls, and a small chapel was added in the 13th century.
Hexagonal Church
Within the walls, on the southern end of the citadel you’ll find a structure I mistook for a tower. It’s actually the Hexagonal Church. It’s unknown when the church was built and there are no surviving dedicatory inscriptions, but it was likely built in the second half of the 10th century or the early 11th century.
The Hexagonal Church has 10 sides and 6 niches with arched tops on the exterior. There’s one entrance. Inside are six apses around a circular space. The conical dome has collapsed.
Near the Hexagonal Church are the remains of three other churches, including the Church of the Child Princes. The other two churches are basically piles of rubble.
Virgin’s Castle
Visible south of the citadel is Virgin’s Castle, also known by its Turkish name, Kızkale (Maiden’s Castle). It’s a picturesque promontory surrounded by the Akhuryan River. This was possibly the last part of Ani to be abandoned and it has never been excavated. Two steep paths lead their way to the top, but it’s currently off limits to the public due to restrictions by the Turkish Army.
The church on Virgin’s Castle was probably built in the early 13th century. It’s on a rectangular plan with two entrances. The dome and the southwest section had collapsed by the end of the 19th century, and the southeast corner fell during an earthquake in 1988. The church is known as the Church of Zak’aria based on an inscription that was destroyed in the earthquake. Zak’aria was the Georgian governor of Ani from 1198 to 1199.
According to Armenian tradition, before Armenia’s conversion to Christianity, a pagan temple dedicated to the goddess Anahit stood atop Virgin’s Castle. It was destroyed by St. Gregory the Illuminator who replaced it with a church. However, there’s no archaeological evidence to support this tradition.
Caves of Ani
On the west side of the Citadel of Ani, it’s possible to spot a few of the caves in the Tsaghkotsadzor Valley, also known as the Bostanlar Valley (Bostanlar Vadisi). There are over 800 caves and rock-cut chambers in the canyons surrounding the city. The majority were used for residential purposes and may have housed over 2,000 people at their peak. Some were still inhabited at the beginning of the 20th century. Roughly 30 of them were used as churches or chapels, while some others were used as cellars, caravanserais, and cisterns.
Church of St. Gregory of the Abughamrents
Continuing along the west side of Ani is the Church of St. Gregory of the Abughamrents. It was commissioned by Prince Grigor Pahlavuni as a private chapel for the Pahlavuni family, probably in the late 10th century.
The church has 12 sides with niches and windows on every other side. It’s topped by a conical dome. The entrance is on the southwest side. An inscription above the door indicates Vahram Pahlavuni donated money for church services to pray for the soul of his son, Abughamir, hence the name of the church.
The interior of the church has six apses. There are 12 windows in the drum, and traces of frescoes can be seen on the dome and walls of the altar apse. The frescoes were likely added in the 13th century. Sadly, the rest of the walls are covered in graffiti.
A mausoleum was attached to the north side, but only the foundations have survived. It was built by Prince Ablgharib in 1040 and had two rooms. The mausoleum was excavated in 1907 and it was raided by treasure hunters in 1998.
Church of the Holy Apostles
Walking north towards the Lion Gate is the Church of the Holy Apostles (Surp Arak’elots), which is one of the most interesting structures at Ani. The church was built sometime in the 10th or 11th century during the Pahlavuni dynasty. The earliest inscription is dated 1031, mentioning a donation of land by Abughamir Pahlavuni. The church and the adjoining buildings were excavated in 1909.
The church itself is largely ruined except for the narthex on the south side. The south and west walls of the narthex have collapsed, and the roof fell in 2001. A small church sat just to the south.
The east façade of the narthex is the most striking feature of the church. It has an entrance topped by a muqarnas niche, giving it the appearance of a Seljuk caravanserai. You can spot Armenian inscription at the top of a niche and above the entrance.
The ceiling is supported by crossing arches and there are several Armenian inscriptions on the walls. You can also find acanthus moldings over the south entrance.
The Church of the Holy Apostles was on a rectangular plan with four apses. The entrances were on the north and south apses, and there were chapels in each of the four corners. Each chapel was topped by a small dome.
Fire Temple at Ani
A few steps north of the church is the Fire Temple. It’s thought to be the remains of a Zoroastrian temple. Dating from the early 1st century BC to the middle of the 4th century, it’s the oldest surviving structure at Ani. Sometime after the adoption of Christianity, it was converted to a chapel.
The Fire Temple consists of four circular columns with a diameter of 1.3 meters. They rest on cylindrical bases and are set 1.8 meters apart, forming a square. Exedra were added between the columns during its conversion to a chapel.
Surp Stephanos Church
Nearby is the Surp Stephanos Church, also known as the Georgian Church. It was built sometime between the early 11th century and the 13th century.
The structure was rectangular with a double-pitched roof, but all that remains is the north wall. Most of the south wall collapsed in 1840, and the apse fell later. The church was controlled by the Georgians but the congregation was mostly Armenian.
The church featured a Georgian inscription dated 1218 on the south wall. After World War I, the inscription disappeared. It was found in 1998 built into the walls of a house in the neighboring village.
Gagikashen
Detouring west is Gagikashen, or the King Gagik’s Church of St. Gregory. The church was commissioned by King Gagik I and was probably built between 1001 and 1005. Today, only the foundations survive.
Gagikashen was designed by Trdat (c. 940s – 1020) based on the Zvartnots Cathedral. It was a three-stepped rotunda topped by a dome. Like its predecessor, the church was unstable and had to be strengthened in 1013. It collapsed shortly after, and in the 13th century, homes were built over the ruins using fragments for building material.
Gagikashen was excavated in 1906 by Nikolai Marr (1865-1934). He unearthed several objects including a bronze candlestick, a chandelier, and a statue of King Gagik holding a model of the church. A fragment of the statue’s shoulder is now kept in the Erzurum Archaeological Museum. The rest has been lost.
Seljuk Palace
Finally, on the northwest corner of the Ani Archaeological Site is the Seljuk Palace. It was built in the late 12th or 13th century and was probably the residence of a prince, wealthy merchant, or bishop. Another theory claims it was a military building, such as a barracks.
The Seljuk Palace features a beautiful entrance on the eastern façade. Inside is a courtyard surrounded by several rooms. There’s also a basement containing several rooms with vaulted ceilings.
I wasn’t able to make it over to the palace because the site was closing, so I don’t have any photos. I’ll post some after my next visit.
