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The unassuming town of Aguadas, one of Colombia’s prestigious Heritage Towns (Pueblos Patrimonio), has contributed a lot to the country’s culture.

Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Aguadas

 

Introduction to Aguadas

Sitting high in the mountains in the department of Caldas, Aguadas was founded on July 5, 1808, by José Narciso Estrada. The town is known not only as the sombrero capital of Colombia, but also the home of Colombia’s best pionono pastry, the capital of pasillo music, and last but not least, the city of “brumas” (clouds that frequently engulf the town). If that’s not enough, it’s included in the UNESCO World Heritage listed Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia. That’s quite a lot to live up to.

Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Aguadas


 

Getting to Aguadas

Aguadas is off the beaten path in the country’s Coffee Region. Getting there could take a lot of patience traveling down bumpy unpaved roads that can’t be avoided no matter which direction you come from. The nearest major cities with direct bus service are Manizales and Medellín. The bus terminal is just a block downhill from the main square.

Bus terminal
Bus terminal

From Medellín, the ride takes about four hours. From Manizales, there are two routes. One is via La Pintada and the other is through Salamina. Both take roughly four hours.

Chiva
Chiva

 

Getting Around Aguadas

Most of the attractions in Aguadas are situated within a few blocks of Plaza de Bolívar, making it walkable. There are, however, some steep hills in town. Be very careful if it’s raining. It can get very slippery. I wiped out on a sidewalk even when watching my step.

A street in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
A street in Aguadas

 

Where to Stay in Aguadas

We’ve stayed overnight in Aguadas a couple times at the same hotel.

 

Hotel Sueño Dorado

We stayed at the Hotel Sueño Dorado. It’s a decent hotel with clean rooms and lukewarm water but not so good WiFi. There are two locations. The main location is a half block from Plaza de Bolívar. The other location is another two blocks down a steep hill in an unmarked building. There are no differences in the rooms in either location.

Hotel Sueño Dorado in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Hotel Sueño Dorado
Hotel Sueño Dorado in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Hotel Sueño Dorado

 

Where to Eat in Aguadas

Options are limited on where to eat in Aguadas.

 

Piononos Trukky

Let’s start with dessert! As I mentioned earlier, Aguadas is known for making the best piononos in Colombia, and Piononos Trukky is preferred by locals. They have a store and café at the corner of Calle 8 and Carrera 6, just a block downhill from Plaza de Bolívar. Pop in to grab a slice of pionono with a good cup of coffee or take a full roll to go!

Piononos Trukky in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Piononos Trukky
Piononos Trukky in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Piononos Trukky
Slice of pionono at Piononos Trukky
Slice of pionono

 

Milagros

We ate twice at Milagros, a fun restaurant with lots of choices and good food. It’s just off Plaza de Bolívar. They have steaks, sandwiches, salads, fast food, arepas, patacones, and more.

Milagros Restaurant in Aguadas, Caldas Colombia
Milagros

 

Venecia

Venecia is on the corner of Plaza de Bolívar to the left of the church. They offer traditional Colombian dishes at fair prices. Sit outside on the balcony to take advantage of the views. We shared a bandeja paisa. It was good other than the ground beef, which was like eating sand.

Restaurante Venecia in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Restaurante Venecia
Restaurante Venecia
Restaurante Venecia
Bandeja paisa at Restaurante Venecia in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Bandeja paisa

 

Café del Parque

If you’re looking for a good cup of coffee, head to Café del Parque. It’s right on Plaza de Bolívar. They also have a food menu and some desserts.

Café del Parque
Café del Parque
Café del Parque in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Café del Parque

 

Restaurante María C.

We had a quick lunch at Restaurante María C. The service was friendly and food was reasonably priced, but we weren’t too impressed with the quality.


 

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Traditions in Aguadas

As previously mentioned, Aguadas is known for several local traditions.

 

Sombrero Aguadeño

The sombrero aguadeño is the typical hat of the Paisa region. It’s not much different from the more famous Panama hat and is made from a palm straw called iraca. Although these hats are sold everywhere in Colombia, the finest come from Aguadas. In any case, a visitor to Aguadas should always come home with an authentic sombrero aguadeño.

 

Sombreros Pipintá

To buy our authentic hats, the locals recommended Sombreros Pipintá, which are considered the finest in town. They’re all handmade by Jorge Valencia López, a friendly man who creates hats ranging from basic yet durable to the finest quality stitching.

Sombreros Pipintá
Sombreros Pipintá

Sombreros Pipintá is located in a house a few blocks from the square. Knock on the door and you’ll be escorted through the house into the small showroom to choose your hat. Prices depend on the quality. It’s important to know that hats sold in stores around town will cost almost double.

Hats in the showroom at Sombreros Pipintá in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Hats in the showroom

Ask Jorge for a tour of his workshop and he’ll happily show you to the back of the house. There you’ll see the molds and presses where he makes the hats and the sewing machines where he puts on the finishing touches.

Unfinished sombreros at Sombreros Pipintá
Unfinished sombreros
Molds at Sombreros Pipintá
Molds
Presses at Sombreros Pipintá
Presses
Sewing machines at Sombreros Pipintá
Sewing machines

 

Pionono

The pionono is a popular pastry all over South America, but in Aguadas you’ll find Colombia’s best. Many street vendors at bus stations and small souvenir shops all over the country will sell piononos. They’re all filled with arequipe and some have raisins or guava or some kind of fruit mixed in. None compare to the quality of the pionono aguadeño. The moist bread is filled with arequipe and has figs and guava mixed in. They’re absolutely delicious.

Pionono in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Pionono

Piononos are sold all over town but we were sent to Piononos Trukky for what many locals consider the best. They’re boxed nicely and sold in full rolls, half rolls, and individual portions.

Piononos Trukky
Piononos Trukky

 

Pasillo Music

Pasillo music is also a tradition of Aguadas. The National Festival of Colombian Pasillo (Fiesta Nacional del Pasillo Colombiano) takes place every August in the town attracting people from all over the country. There are parades, parties, concerts, competitions and more. The video below is of the winning vocalist of the 23rd annual festival in 2014.


 

Plaza de Bolívar in Aguadas

In the heart of the town is the bustling Plaza de Bolívar. It’s surrounded by a few historic buildings filled by businesses, shops, cafés, and restaurants.

Plaza de Bolívar in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Plaza de Bolívar
Plaza de Bolívar in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Plaza de Bolívar
Fountain and church in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Fountain and church
Plaza de Bolívar
Plaza de Bolívar
Street along Plaza de Bolívar
Street along Plaza de Bolívar

 

Fountain

The fountain in the center of Plaza de Bolívar was brought to Aguadas by Faustino and Nicolás Estrada in 1891. It was manufactured in New York and transported through Colombia by mules and oxen. Once it reached Aguadas, it was assembled and unveiled on August 7 of that year. The fountain is surrounded by eight light posts with embedded lion heads.

Fountain in Plaza de Bolívar in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Fountain
Fountain in Plaza de Bolívar
Fountain

 

Church of the Immaculate Conception

The Church of the Immaculate Conception (Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción) is on the northwest side of Plaza de Bolívar. Construction began on December 7, 1858, under Father Domingo Antonio Angarita and it was inaugurated on December 10, 1883. The land on which the church sits was donated by Lucio Estrada, the son of the founder of Aguadas.

Church of the Immaculate Conception in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Church of the Immaculate Conception
Church of the Immaculate Conception
Church of the Immaculate Conception

The Church of the Immaculate Conception has a three-aisled nave separated by 12 arched columns. The underside of the dome contains figures of the Four Evangelists. On the right aisle near the entrance is a figure of the Fallen and Flagellated Lord. It was donated to the parish in 1877.

Nave of the Church of the Immaculate Conception in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Nave
Main altar of the Church of the Immaculate Conception in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Main altar
The Fallen and Flagellated Lord at the Church of the Immaculate Conception
The Fallen and Flagellated Lord
The Fallen and Flagellated Lord at the Church of the Immaculate Conception
The Fallen and Flagellated Lord

Above the entrance is an original Opus 75 tubular organ, built in 1928 by a firm from Bilbao, Spain. It has 1304 wooden and tin flutes and was inaugurated on July 29, 1933.

Organ of the Church of the Immaculate Conception
Organ


 

Cultural Center

Two blocks uphill from Plaza de Bolívar and across the street from the police station is the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center (Casa de la Cultura Francisco Giraldo). It was founded in July 1969 to honor writer Francisco Giraldo (1884-1926), who was born in Aguadas.

Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center

The cultural center contains two museums accessible on a guided tour. Tours leave roughly every hour and admission is free (as of March 2024). Please note that the cultural center is not always open. It took us until our third trip to Aguadas to finally have a chance to visit.

View from the balcony of the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center
View from the balcony

 

National Museum of Hats

The cultural center’s biggest draw is the National Museum of Hats (Museo Nacional del Sombrero), which pays homage to the different traditional hats worn in Colombia and around the world. There are over 300 different hats on display.

National Museum of Hats at the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
National Museum of Hats
National Museum of Hats at the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
National Museum of Hats
Corridor at the National Museum of Hats
Corridor

 

Hats from Around the World

The first two rooms contain hats from other countries. In the first room, the guide explains the origin of hats and their evolution as a form of protection to a symbol of status or authority.

First room at the National Museum of Hats
First room
Oldest examples of hats in the museum at the National Museum of Hats at the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Oldest examples of hats in the museum
Police officer's hat at the National Museum of Hats at the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Police officer’s hat
Hats from around the world at the National Museum of Hats
Hats from around the world

The second room covers hats in popular culture, literature, and art. A handful of interesting hats from around the world are also on display.

Second room at the National Museum of Hats at the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Second room
Second room at the National Museum of Hats
Second room
Hats from around the world at the National Museum of Hats
Hats from around the world


 

Colombian Hats

The next four rooms focus on the traditional hats found in different departments of Colombia. It starts with a map of Colombia and a description of the materials used to make hats in each department. In this room are hats from Antioquia, Quindío, Boyacá, Santander, Cundinamarca, Caldas, and Cauca.

Colombian hats at the National Museum of Hats at the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Colombian hats
Colombian hats at the National Museum of Hats at the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Colombian hats
Hats from Qundío and Antioquia at the National Museum of Hats
Hats from Qundío and Antioquia

The following room displays hats from Valle del Cauca, La Guajira, Chocó, Huila, Córdoba, and Tolima. Some examples from the Caribbean region include the sombrero vueltiao from Córdoba, which is the most representative hat of Colombia on an international level, and the colorful sombrero wayuu, worn by the indigenous Wayúu people in La Guajira. Another interesting hat is the tall sombrero tolimense.

Colombian hats at the National Museum of Hats
Colombian hats
Sombrero vueltiao (left) and sombrero wayuu (right) at the National Museum of Hats at the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Sombrero vueltiao (left) and sombrero wayuu (right)
Sombrero tolimense at the National Museum of Hats
Sombrero tolimense

The final two rooms in the National Museum of Hats focuses on the sombrero aguadeño, which is from Aguadas. One room contains the largest sombrero aguadeño in the world. It was handmade by Alba Cecilia Arcila
Garcia and has a diameter of 40 centimeters. The other room contains examples of different styles and qualities of the sombrero aguadeño and the tools used to make them.

The world's largest sombrero aguadeño at the National Museum of Hats at the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
The world’s largest sombrero aguadeño
Sombrero aguadeño at the National Museum of Hats at the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Sombrero aguadeño
The making of a sombrero aguadeño at the National Museum of Hats
The making of a sombrero aguadeño

 

Museum of Aguadas Traditions

The other museum at the cultural center is the Museum of Aguadas Traditions (Museo de Tradiciones Aguadeñas). It consists of five rooms, starting with the Antiques Exhibit (Sala de Antigüedades) displaying objects from different periods.

Antiques Exhibit
Antiques Exhibit
Antiques Exhibit
Antiques Exhibit

The Eugenio Lotero Hall (Sala Eugenio Lotero) contains wood carvings of important figures from Aguadas and Colombia as well as photographs of historic buildings and doors in the town.

Photos of doors and buildings at the Museum of Aguadas Traditions
Photos of doors and buildings

The Historic Documents Exhibit (Sala de Documentos Antiguos) features “articles, decrees, minutes, and manuscripts of significant historical value for the people of Aguadas”.

Historic Documents Exhibit
Historic Documents Exhibit

The Indigenous Exhibit (Sala Indígena) displays artifacts related to the indigenous tribes of the region, including tools, weapons, and skulls.

Indigenous Exhibit
Indigenous Exhibit
Artifacts in the Indigenous Exhibit
Artifacts
Skulls in the Indigenous Exhibit
Skulls

The fifth and final room in the Museum of Aguadas Traditions is La Fonda de Manuela. It’s a recreation of an inn owned by a woman named Manuela, who’s believed to be the town’s first settler. She was originally from Sonsón.

La Fonda de Manuela at the Museum of Aguadas Traditions at the Francisco Giraldo Cultural Center in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
La Fonda de Manuela
La Fonda de Manuela
La Fonda de Manuela


 

Architecture in Aguadas

The rest of the town is fairly sleepy but wandering around might be rewarding for lovers of colonial architecture. I’ll leave you with a few photos of some buildings and other interesting shots I took around town.

Building at Carrera 3 and Calle 7 in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Building at Carrera 3 and Calle 7
Building at Carrera 3 and Calle 7 in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Building at Carrera 3 and Calle 7
Mural at Carrera 3 and Calle 7 in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Mural at Carrera 3 and Calle 7
Fountain at Calle 3 and Carrera 5 in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Fountain at Calle 3 and Carrera 5
Door on Carrera 4 between Calles 5 and 6
Door on Carrera 4 between Calles 5 and 6
Calle 8
Calle 8
Building at Carrera 6 and Calle 8
Building at Carrera 6 and Calle 8
Stairs at the end of Calle 8
Stairs at the end of Calle 8
Building at Carrera 5 and Calle 5
Building at Carrera 5 and Calle 5
A street in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
A street in Aguadas

 

Pueblito Viejo

On the southern end of town is Pueblito Viejo, a small replica village of what Aguadas used to look like. You’ll find small homes and offices filled with antique furniture, tools, and items along with a café. It’s a bit out of the way but a nice place to visit.

Pueblito Viejo in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Pueblito Viejo
Pueblito Viejo in Aguadas, Caldas, Colombia
Pueblito Viejo
Doctor's office at Pueblito Viejo
Doctor’s office
Chapel at Pueblito Viejo
Chapel

 

Map of Aguadas

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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