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Oranjestad is the capital of Aruba and a bustling harbor city full of shops, restaurants, and cultural sites. It sits in the center of the island along the west coast.
Brief History of Oranjestad
The settlement at Paardenbaai (Horse Bay), which eventually became Oranjestad, was founded around 1796 as a center of trade and commerce. The settlement grew in 1824 after the discovery of gold on the island and it was renamed Oranjestad, literally “Orange City”, after the Dutch Royal Family. It remained a modest settlement until a boom in the 1920s spurred by the oil industry followed by the arrival of tourism. Today, it’s a major tourism hub dotted with colorful Dutch colonial buildings.
Getting Around Oranjestad
Oranjestad is easy to explore on foot, although there’s a tram leading from the cruise ship terminal into the city center. If you’re driving, there’s plenty of parking available in front of the harbor and along the streets. If you want to get further out of the center to the Aruba Aloe Factory to the north or Surfside Beach to the south, you’ll need transportation.
Oranjestad Harbor
The harbor is where most visitors to Oranjestad will start exploring the city. It’s connected to the cruise ship terminal and has plenty of tourist facilities around it, including shops and restaurants. At the harbor, you can see several private boats as well as massive cruise ships.
Government of Aruba
The center of government for Aruba sits directly across the street from the harbor. It consists of a complex housing the Government of Aruba (Gobierno di Aruba), Parliament of Aruba (Parlamento di Aruba), and Cabinet of the Governor (Gabinete di Gobernador).
Aruba is a constituent country within the Kingdom of the Netherlands. The governor is appointed by the monarch of the Netherlands and serves a six year term. Members of Parliament are elected to four year terms with the majority party leader usually becoming the Prime Minister. The Netherlands are responsible for defense, citizenship, and foreign affairs, while Aruba is responsible for customs, immigration, communication, and other internal affairs.
Plaza Henny Eman
On the eastern corner of the government complex is Plaza Henny Eman. It contains a statue of Henny Eman, who was the first Prime Minister of Aruba.
Plaza Padu
Behind the government complex is Plaza Padu. It features a fountain and sculpture dedicated to Padu Lampe (1920-2019), who wrote the lyrics to the national anthem of Aruba, Aruba Dushi Tera. One of the other men depicted in the sculpture is Rufo Wever (1917-1977), the anthem’s composer. The sculpture was made by Ciro Abath.
Fort Zoutman
Across the street to the east of the government complex is Fort Zoutman, a military outpost constructed in 1798 to protect the harbor from pirates and enemies. It’s named for Johan Arnold Zoutman (1724-1793), a Dutch naval officer. It’s the oldest surviving structure in Aruba and was restored from 1974 to 1980.
Fort Zoutman was constructed by African slaves with materials provided by indigenous people. It consisted of service buildings, waiting rooms, soldiers’ quarters, and a warehouse. The fort was armed with four cannons but wasn’t garrisoned until 1830. The concrete walls date back to 1936. Today, it’s possible to see the original kitchen and chimney, as well as a rainwater cistern.
Historical Museum of Aruba
Fort Zoutman hosts the Historical Museum of Aruba, which covers the history of the island and its inhabitants. It’s open Tuesday through Saturday and admission is US$5 (as of January 2024). The museum has a wonderful and knowledgable staff who can answer all of your questions about Aruba and its history.
The first gallery contains artifacts connected to the craft of weaving. The hat making industry was an important source of income after the decline of agriculture and the closing of the gold and phosphate mines in the early 20th century. During this period, several local men left the island for work, especially on sugar plantations in Cuba. Women supported their families by weaving hats.
The second gallery features display cases full of antique items used by locals as well as furniture and clothing. There are some impressive decorations that once adorned wealthy homes, handmade items, toys, and everyday objects.
The third and final gallery is air conditioned and contains more antiques. Among them are bottles produced by the local bottling industry and a beautiful wooden armoire.
Willem III Tower
The tower on the west side of Fort Zoutman, the Willem III Tower (Willem III Toren), was added in 1868 to function as a lighthouse and clock tower. It featured a bell that rung on the hour and during special occasions and emergencies. The lighthouse was put out of service in 1963. The Willem III Tower has also served as a courthouse, library, post office, tax office, watchtower, and police station.
Admission to the museum includes the opportunity to climb to the top of the Willem III Tower. There are five levels of the tower and spectacular views of Oranjestad at the top. The ladders are a little steep and you have to be careful, but this was more worth the price of admission than the museum, in my opinion.
Colonial History of Aruba on the First Level
On the first level of the tower is information about the colonial period of Aruba, which lasted from 1792 to 1924. At the end of the period, there were only 9,021 inhabitants. One panel discussed how Papiamento was introduced to Aruba from Curaçao in the late 19th century and quickly spread throughout the island. Education was strictly in Dutch, although most Aruban children didn’t understand it. Catholic and Protestant missions advocated for the recognition of Papiamento, but it wasn’t formally recognized until 1976 and wasn’t a national language until 2003.
Another panel covered the slave trade. I found it fascinating to learn that a mild form of slavery was more or less practiced on the island. Slaves “were protected by laws covering food, care, and punishment”. Corporal punishment was prohibited, work hours were limited, and children were not allowed to work until the age of 14. Slaves were also free to form relationships with anyone, including free Arubans. Slavery was abolished in Aruba on July 1, 1863, with 486 slaves emancipated.
Second through Fourth Levels
The second and third levels of the tower were empty, but the fourth level contains the functioning parts of the clock. There were also profiles of local Arubans.
Top of the Willem III Tower
At the top of the Willem III Tower, you’re greeted by the bell. You can then enjoy great views of Oranjestad in every direction. It’s possible to spot several landmarks, such as the government complex across the street, the harbor and cruise ship terminal, the Protestant Church, and more.
City Hall / Dr. Eloy Arends House
Along Wilhelminastraat is City Hall (Stadhuis). It was originally the home of Dr. Eloy Arends and was built between 1922 and 1925. The architect was Chibi Wever.
After Arends died in 1960, the house passed to his son, Jesus Eloy Arends. It was then used as a dentist’s office and later a restaurant. The house was abandoned in 1980 and fell into disrepair. It was sold to the government in 1988 but wasn’t restored until 1997. It now houses the civil registration office and is a popular place for tourists to get married.
Old Protestant Church
A few steps to the west is the Old Protestant Church, which is the oldest church building on the island. It was constructed in 1845 and consecrated on February 15, 1846, by Reverend A.J.K. Meyer from Curaçao. The bell tower was added in 1867 and designed by Lieutenant Governor J.H. Ferguson. The congregation dates back to 1822 and the Old Protestant Church held services until 1950. It was restored between 1988 and 1994.
Protestant Church
On the same corner is the much larger Protestant Church. It was built between 1950 and 1951 to accommodate Oranjestad’s growing Protestant community. The church was consecrated on May 28, 1950. It sits on the site of the residence of Dr. Horacio Eulogio Oduber, which was used as a government guesthouse (Pasanggrahan).
Ambrosio
Across the street from the church we noticed a blue horse sculpture made by Osaira Muyale. This is Ambrosio, who is one of many horse sculptures around town. He represents the horse breeding that took place on Aruba when it was under the rule of the Dutch West India Company (Westindische Compagnie) from 1636-1792. It was the main economic activity on the island during that period.
French and English pirates would often raid the island to acquire horses. Among these pirates was Sir Henry Morgan (c. 1635-1688), better known as Captain Morgan, in 1668. Peter Stuyvesant (1610-1672) also visited Aruba in 1642, using it as a stopover between raids on Spanish lands in South America.
Shopping Zone
The point at which Wilhelminastraat becomes Havenstraat is where you’ll find the heart of the shopping zone in Oranjestad. I’ll write about that below.
Anyway, in the small square where the streets meet, there’s another blue horse as well as a bust of Daniel Ignacio Leo (1938-1989). He was instrumental in the development of the agricultural and tourism industries in Aruba.
Ecury Complex
A short walk away is the Ecury Complex. It consists of a few buildings constructed using different architectural styles. Schelpstraat 44 is the oldest building of the complex, which was built by Louis Rosenberg around 1867.
Schelpstraat 42 was built in 1870 in the traditional cunucu style. The green mansion was added to the building in 1929 and was possibly designed by Dada Picus. It was the family home of Segundo Nicasio Ecury.
Schelpstraat 40 was built in 1911 with a second floor added in 1917. It was the birthplace of World War II hero Segundo Jorge Adelberto (Boy) Ecury (1922-1944). He took part in the Resistance Council while studying in the Netherlands and was shot by German soldiers.
National Archaeological Museum of Aruba
The Ecury Complex houses the National Archaeological Museum of Aruba, which opened in July 2009. It’s open weekdays and admission is free with a voluntary donation (as of January 2024). The museum is small but has an excellent exhibit on indigenous cultures of Aruba.
Ground Floor of the National Archaeological Museum
The ground floor of the museum contains information and artifacts on the lives of the indigenous inhabitants of Aruba. This includes a replica hut as well as utensils for cooking, eating, and drinking. There are plenty of interpretive panels about the lives of natives before and after the arrival of European settlers in 1754.
Further along is a section explaining how archaeologists perform field work. On display are several artifacts discovered in digs, both indigenous and from modern times. There’s also a large vessel used as an example of how archaeologists reconstruct their findings.
Finally, next to the staircase to the upper floor is a cistern discovered during construction of the new museum building. It dates back to about 1900 and could hold about 55,000 liters of water. This would sustain an entire family for up to five months. Unfortunately, it was closed during our visit and we weren’t able to enter.
Upper Floor of the National Archaeological Museum
The upper floor contains information on the Pre-ceramic people of Aruba, who disappeared around 1000, as well as the Caquetio people. There are interactive exhibits with information about the Caquetio and Papiamento languages and species introduced to Aruba. Also included is the dramatic turning point the island took in 1513, when the Spanish declared Aruba a “useless island”. Two years later, the 600 to 800 inhabitants were forcefully removed and taken to work as slaves in the mines of Hispaniola.
On the other side of the upper floor are some of the most important archaeological finds from around the island. They date from the Pre-ceramic period to the Historic period.
Among the most interesting items are two reconstructed burials discovered at Malmok. One is from the Pre-ceramic period featuring a skeleton buried in the fetal position. The other is a collection of bones in a ceramic vessel dating from the Ceramic period.
Henriquez Building
The Henriquez Building sits next to the Ecury Complex. It was built in the traditional cunucu style of architecture around by Abelardo Henriquez, a tailor, shipowner, and merchant. Locals referred to the house as La Casa de la Municipalidad (Town Hall), because Henriquez was known for his contributions to the community. Today, the building houses the Office of Monuments of Aruba.
Wilhelmina Park
A short walk south of the harbor is Wilhelmina Park. It’s named for Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands (1880-1962), who reigned from 1890 to 1948.
The park features broad walking paths shaded by palms and other trees as well as grassy areas and manicured shrubs. At the south end is a good view of the shoreline towards Surfside Beach.
In the center of the park is a raised platform with a statue of Wilhelmina. It was created by Florentine sculptor Angelo Lualdi, who based it on official 1938 portraits of the Queen. The statue is made of Carrara marble and natural stone.
While models of the statue were approved in 1948, it took seven years to select the location and build the park. The statue was unveiled in 1955 by her daughter, Queen Juliana (1909-2004).
In addition to the statue of Queen Wilhelmina, there’s a small statue of Anne Frank (1929-1945). The base is inscribed with a quote by Frank on three sides in English, Dutch, and Papiamento.
Surfside Beach
Surfside Beach is further south of the city center near the airport. It’s a nice beach with powdery white sand and calm water. There are great views of Oranjestad and the cruise ship terminal from the beach. We visited twice and found it to be less crowded than other more popular beaches.
While it was nice to lay on the beach and get in the water, Surfside Beach is also a great place to watch planes landing at the airport. We saw about six or seven planes coming in, mostly from the US.
Aruba Aloe Factory
North of Oranjestad you’ll find the Aruba Aloe Factory Museum and Store. It’s a popular stop for tour groups and a great place to buy products made of aloe, such as gels, soaps, creams, and more.
Staff members are very helpful and are happy to point you in the right direction for the type of product you’re looking for. You can even sample some of the items for sale. Of course, prices are geared towards tourists so expect to overpay.
Aloe Museum and Factory Tour
A small museum on the showroom floor of the Aruba Aloe Factory gives visitors a brief history of the aloe vera industry in Aruba. It also points out several facts about aloe vera as well as documented uses throughout history.
Upstairs, visitors can take a guide or self-guided tour of the factory. We didn’t want to stick around and wait for a tour so we took a walk around the factory on our own. There are a few interpretive panels along the way, but you’ll definitely get more out of it by waiting for a guided tour.
Windows down to the factory floor allow you to look at some of the equipment used to process aloe vera. You might be able to spot workers packaging some of the products and you can peek into the research lab.
Where to Eat in Oranjestad
Since we usually at near our hotel in the Noord district, we didn’t have too many meals in Oranjestad. Our choices were hit or miss.
Santos Coffee
We visited Santos Coffee twice. It’s a nice coffee shop behind the government complex. They have a decent menu and service is friendly and efficient.
On our first visit, we had coffee and a very light breakfast. We both tried lattes and shared a croissant and muffin. On our second visit, we both had an americano. Both types of coffee were excellent, and were the best we had during our trip to Aruba. Unfortunately, we didn’t have a chance to go back and have lunch. The sandwiches and salads on the menu look great.
Kalin’s Mexican Food
For lunch, we stopped into Kalin’s Mexican Food. It’s located at the Renaissance Marketplace and is definitely geared towards tourists. Kalin’s is probably one of the worst Mexican restaurants I’ve been to and not a good experience overall. Service was slow, first of all, and prices are high related to the quality of the food. I also think it’s the only Mexican restaurant I’ve ever been to without complimentary tortilla chips and salsa.
I had chicken fajitas, which came with zero sauces or sides. Marisol had a tortilla soup and our little one had the chicken soup. Overall, the food is mediocre at best, lacking the flavor Mexican food is supposed to have. Please keep walking and find something else.
Reflexions Beach Bar
For our last lunch in Aruba before catching our flight home, we visited Reflexions Beach Bar. It sits right on Surfside Beach and has reasonable chair and umbrella rental options as well.
I had a grouper sandwich while Marisol had the seafood trio, which is shrimp, calamari, and grouper served in a white wine sauce. Both meals were delicious. Reflexions also makes very good mixed drinks and service is excellent.
Renaissance Marketplace
The aforementioned Renaissance Marketplace is a diverse collection of restaurants next to the harbor. While we made a mistake with Kalin’s Mexican Food, there are plenty of other options to choose from, such as Italian, Cuban, Chinese, Dutch, steak, and more. There are also a few shops, a casino, and movie theatre.
Where to Shop in Oranjestad
Shopping is one of the highlights of visiting Oranjestad. There are a couple shopping malls as well as traditional shopping streets.
Shopping Zone in Oranjestad
There are plenty of stores in the city center at the point where Havenstraat, Wilhelminastraat, and Kazernestraat meet. They seem to be mostly shoe stores, clothing stores, and a few souvenir shops. We found some great deals on shoes at Skechers.
Main Street
Main Street is a scenic palm-lined street with even more stores. Again, it’s mostly shoes and clothing, with a few electronics and specialty shops mixed in. Although it’s nice to walk down the street, we didn’t have much luck finding what we need.
Renaissance Mall
The huge Renaissance Mall sits between Havenstraat and the harbor. It’s full of luxury shops and features a casino, spa, and a few upscale restaurants. The mall is connected to the Renaissance Wind Creek Aruba Resort.
