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Kayaköy is a Greek ghost town near the resort city of Fethiye, Turkey. It was evacuated in 1923 and is now an open-air museum.
History of Kayaköy
Kayaköy was originally the ancient Greek city of Karmylessos (Καρμυλησσός). Its history can be traced back to the 3rd millennium BC but the oldest finds date to the 4th century BC.
Karmylessos was later renamed Levessos (Λεβέσσος) and by modern times it was called Livissi (Λειβίσσι). Throughout history, the inhabitants were Greek. They became Christianized during Late Antiquity.
The town began to thrive after nearby Makri (now Fethiye) was destroyed in an earthquake in 1856 and a major fire in 1885. The population grew to over 6,500.
In its heyday, the town had 2 large churches and almost 20 more small churches and chapels. There was a thriving leather industry, local newspapers, and two schools.
The Ottoman government began persecuting the locals in 1914. In 1915, Ottoman troops massacred several residents, and forced deportations took place in 1916, 1917, and 1918. Entire families were made to march to Denizli, around 220 kilometers away. When they arrived, many were tortured and even killed.
Livissi was almost completely empty by the population exchange in 1923, when the few remaining residents were sent to Greece. Many settled in Athens and founded Nea Makri.
Turks and Muslims from Greece were brought in to repopulate the village but refused. They believed rumors that the ghosts of the locals massacred in 1915 haunted the town.
Today, Livissi is known as Kayaköy and is protected as an open-air museum. It mostly caters to visitors traveling between Fethiye and Ölüdeniz, with a handful of restaurants, boutique hotels and resorts, and souvenir shops outside the ruins. Around 500 ruined houses remain plus one house left exactly as it was in 1923. Apparently, there are plans to develop or rebuild parts of the ruins.
Visiting Kayaköy
Kayaköy is open daily and admission for foreigners is €3 (as of May 2024). There are two entrances. One is on the east downhill from the Taxiarchis Church and the other is on the west next to Panagia Pyrgiotissa. Visit the official website for more info.
The paths through Kayaköy are mostly cobblestone or unpaved. The surface is uneven, so watch your step and be careful not to twist an ankle. It can get steep at some points but it’s not unmanageable. There are a few signs pointing towards major landmarks, but for the most part nothing is labeled and there’s no information. Finally, be aware there are no facilities within the ruins themselves. It’s a good idea to wear good walking shoes, take water, and wear sunscreen or a hat.
Walking Through Kayaköy
Kayaköy is easily one of the eeriest places I’ve ever visited. I had always been interested in seeing it for myself because of my own personal history as a descendent of Anatolian Greeks. It brought up lots of emotions, especially as I tried to imagine the sights and sounds of the past, and what life was like in the once thriving town. Being alone for 95% of my visit, there were even times I swear I could feel the presence of the former inhabitants.
As I mentioned earlier, there are about 500 ruined houses and a few important buildings. They mostly date to the late 19th century. Everything of value has been removed and all that’s left are the shells of the buildings. There are traces of original paint in some of them, and you can easily make out the more luxurious homes based on their size.
I took my time walking through Kayaköy, spending over two hours traversing every path possible. I followed the main paths until they were overgrown or there was nothing left to see. Below I’ll talk about some of the landmarks other than the houses.
Chapel Near the East Entrance
The first structure I visited is a small chapel just inside the east entrance. It has an apse and an entrance and window on the north wall.
Taxiarchis Church
Further into the ruins, the path winds uphill to Taxiarchis Church. It’s in bad condition and closed for safety reasons, but it’s possible to get inside. As much as I would like to have seen it up close, I wasn’t going to hurt myself by attempting to climb over any high walls.
The church has entrances via a narthex on the west side and a door on the south side. There are traces of paint in the narthex, which features three arches.
Five arched windows line the north and south sides of the roof, and there are windows along the ground level as well. The atrium of the church has a beautiful mosaic floor made of black and white pebbles.
Boys School
Atop a hill in the center of the town, just above Taxiarchis Church, you’ll find the Boys School. There’s no information about it, but it provides a great vantage point over the rest of the town.
Central Chapel
Downhill west of Taxiarchis Church is another chapel. It features four steps up to the entrance, which is flanked by reliefs of crosses. The nave is narrow with a small window on the north side and a large arched window on the south side.
Central Church
A few steps further west is a small church. It has a yard on the south side and two entrances along the south wall. There are some ornamental stone reliefs embedded in the south wall.
The nave of the church is long and narrow. There are traces of paint on the walls, most noticeably in the apse. The mosaic floor depicts geometric patterns made of black and white pebbles.
Original Kayaköy House
Next to the church is the last house in Kayaköy as it was left by its Greek inhabitants. It’s open to the public as a privately owned museum and admission is free (as of May 2024).
The house is the only one in town featuring original woodwork, including floors, the ceiling, doors, shelves, benches, and cabinets. One room has a fireplace, and there are traces of paint on the walls.
Inside one of the rooms, you’ll find original photos hung on the wall. There are also photos of scenes from the movie The Water Diviner, which was partially shot in Kayaköy and in the house as well.
Fountain
Along the main road passing Kayaköy is a 17th century fountain. The north and west sides feature an arched portico supported by five pillars. The roof contains terra cotta tiles.
Panagia Pyrgiotissa
Next to the west entrance to Kayaköy is the Church of Panagia Pyrgiotissa, which was built in 1888. It’s the best preserved structure in town due to its use as a mosque from 1923 to 1960. The church is closed to the public for safety reasons, but you can peek over the wall to get a decent look.
Watchtower Chapel
Finally, on top of a hill on the southwest corner of Kayaköy is a small chapel known as the Watchtower Chapel. A steep path leads up to the chapel, and it’s worth heading up for the views alone. To the south you can see the Mediterranean Sea.
There’s no information about the chapel itself. It’s a simple structure with a bare interior. The entrance is on the west side and there’s an apse on the east side.
