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Dalyan is a small resort town in the Mediterranean region of Turkey. It’s a great place to base yourself for a relaxing holiday.
Introduction to Dalyan
Dalyan wasn’t on the map until 1987, when developers wanted to build a huge 1,800-bed luxury hotel on nearby Iztuzu Beach. As an important breeding ground for the endangered loggerhead turtle, international conservationists came together to protest against the project. They were successful and the beach became a protected area in 1988.
Today, Dalyan is a tourist destination both for Iztuzu Beach and the ancient city of Kaunos. It’s also popular for cruises along the Dalyan River, mud baths, and hot springs.
Getting to Dalyan
The easiest way to get to Dalyan is to fly to Dalaman Airport (Dalaman Havalimanı) and take a taxi or private transfer. Seasonal and charter flights from all over Europe fly into the airport. Domestically, there are frequent flights from both airports in Istanbul as well as flights to Ankara. It’s about a 40-minute drive from Dalyan.
Getting Around Dalyan
You don’t need a car while you’re in Dalyan. It’s easy to get around town on foot. From town, it’s possible to reach Iztuzu Beach via dolmuş or on a river cruise. You can get to the ruins of Kaunos by taking a ferry across the river and walking.
Where to Stay in Dalyan
There are loads of small budget and mid-range hotels, private rentals, and campgrounds in the area as well as a handful of upscale hotels.
Kilim Hotel
I stayed one night at the Kilim Hotel, which is a very friendly place a short walk from the town center. It’s run by a Turkish-English couple who go out of their way to make you feel at home.
The hotel hosts BBQ parties, live music nights, and staff members are happy to book activities and excursions for you. There’s also a pool if you want to cool down after a long hot day. Best of all, rates are fair.
Rooms are comfortable and spacious with good air conditioning. I got a great night of sleep before exploring the area the next morning. A nice breakfast is included in the rate as well. I’d be happy to stay there again.
Where to Eat in Dalyan
You won’t have a problem finding a decent meal in Dalyan. The entire town is dotted with restaurants and cafés with all different types of food.
Lime Restaurant
Lime Restaurant is south of the town center. They have a rooftop terrace and a menu featuring steaks, seafood, and other specialties. I had a steak with a creamy mushroom sauce and it was delicious. I also liked the presentation. Prices are a little high but service is excellent.
Coffee Shop on the Way to Iztuzu Beach
I saw a sign for iced coffee while driving to Iztuzu Beach. On my way back from the beach, I couldn’t resist and made a quick stop. The coffee is decent but the setting is even better. There’s a nice patio to sit and relax, and service is friendly. Unfortunately, I never caught the name of the coffee shop.
What to See in the Town of Dalyan
To be fair, there’s not much to do in town. The streets are full of shops, restaurants, bars, and cafés geared towards tourists. It’s pleasant to walk through the town but there’s not much substance. The streets start to look the same after a while.
Riverwalk in Dalyan
My favorite thing about Dalyan is the riverwalk. It runs along the Dalyan River through most of town and provides a great place to view the rock-cut tombs of Kaunos across the river.
At the south end of the riverwalk is a small park and platform from where to view the tombs. There’s also a memorial to June Haimoff (1922-2022), an English environmentalist who championed the cause against the hotel at Iztuzu Beach. She lived in Dalyan from 1984 until her death and was affectionately known by locals as Captain June.
Town Square
About halfway down the riverwalk is the town square. It features a small mosque as well as a statue of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938), the founder of the Turkish Republic.
DALKO
It’s definitely not a tourist attraction, but I stumbled upon DALKO on my way to see the ancient city of Kaunos. DALKO (Dalyan Fisheries Cooperative) is a fishery providing fish and seafood from the area to Turkey and other countries.
One of the workers gave me a ride across the river on his boat. I had a few minutes to walk around while waiting to get back across. It’s not exactly exciting, but I was able to see a few tanks with blue crabs as well as a good view of the rock-cut tombs.
Iztuzu Beach
Iztuzu Beach (İztuzu Plajı) is a thin strip of land separating the Dalyan River from the Mediterranean Sea. In my opinion the most beautiful beach in Turkey. It’s by far the cleanest beach I’ve seen in the country. The sand is powdery and soft while the water is calm and warm. With its status as a protected area, you’re guaranteed a wonderful experience.
There are two access points at Iztuzu Beach. You can reach the east end of the beach by road. If you have your own car, there’s a paid parking lot. If not, you can take a dolmuş or taxi from Dalyan. The other access point is via the Dalyan River to the west end of the beach. There are several touristic cruises making their way down the river offering a couple hours of free time on the beach.
Facilities at Iztuzu Beach include a snack bar, umbrella and chair rentals, and changing rooms. Access to the beach is forbidden from 8pm to 8am from May through October. In most sections you’re not allowed to dig holes or lie on towels. Cages mark areas where turtles have laid eggs, warning people to avoid these areas.
Most people congregate near the parking lot where the umbrellas and chairs are available. The further west you walk down the beach, the fewer crowds you’ll have to deal with.
Sea Turtle Research, Rescue and Rehabilitation Center
Behind the parking lot is the Sea Turtle Research, Rescue and Rehabilitation Center (Deniz Kaplumbağaları Araştırma, Kurtarma ve Rehabilitasyon Merkezi), or DEKAMER for short. It’s run by Pamukkale University and admission is free (as of April 2024).
The center contains a museum detailing the life cycles of sea turtles, conservation efforts, and the history of their work at Iztuzu Beach. Volunteers are on hand to answer questions.
Students and volunteers from the center monitor nests during breeding season by placing cages on them. This protects them from predators and sunbathers. Injured turtles found on the beach or in the river are also brought in for treatment and rehabilitation. They’re kept in tanks until they’re healthy enough to be released. The center has been operating since May 2009.
Kaptan June Sea Turtle Conservation Foundation
Nearby is the Kaptan June Sea Turtle Conservation Foundation. It was founded in February 2011 and named for June Haimoff (1922-2022), an English environmentalist who helped bring international recognition to the sea turtle issue at Iztuzu Beach. Her old beach hut has been converted to a small museum. Admission is free (as of April 2024), but unfortunately it was closed during my visit.
Radar Hill
If you want to get one of the most spectacular views you’ll ever see in your life, head up to the top of Radar Hill (Radar Tepesi). It overlooks Iztuzu Beach and the entire Dalyan River delta.
First of all, you’ll need to book a 4×4 tour or have your own car. The road is a little rough to get up there, but if you have anything bigger than a compact car, you should be ok. I took my tiny Kia as far up as I could go then walked the last 200 meters or so. Once at the overlook, you’ll have an incredible view of the entire river delta and Iztuzu Beach.
I was lucky to have the view to myself for a good 20 minutes until a couple jeep tours rolled up. It’s incredibly peaceful.
Dalyan River Cruise
One of the best activities in Dalyan is to take a cruise along the Dalyan River. They last about a half day and give time to relax on Iztuzu Beach. It’s easy to find a tour company offering these cruises in town or by booking through your accommodation. Day trips are also available from most tour companies located in Marmaris or Bodrum and prices vary.
I did the cruise on a day trip from Bodrum and I’ve sent my tour groups on day trips from Marmaris. I’ll tell you about my experience below.
Mud Bath
I arrived in Dalyan after an early morning pickup and long drive from Bodrum. My tour started by boarding a boat and crossing the river to a mud bath. The mud on the banks of the river is said to have healing properties because of all the minerals.
After changing and leaving my things with the guide, I jumped into the mud pit and covered my body in the mud. Then it was time to stand in the sun like a fool and let the mud dry. That took a good 15 minutes because I had it caked on really thick. When it was dry, I took a shower and removed all the mud from my body. Did my skin feel different? Not really, but it’s always fun rolling around in the mud!
Cruising the Dalyan River Delta
From the mud baths, our faithful boat captain, Dilo, who also happens to be single and available, took us to a small restaurant across the river for lunch. My group ate from a large buffet and then got back into the boat for an hour long cruise through the river delta. The scenery is stunning.
Along the way, we passed by the ruins of Kaunos, an ancient city of Caria known for its rock-cut tombs. The tombs are inaccessible and the best way to see them is from the town or on a boat.
Near the mouth of the delta we stopped to see the endangered loggerhead turtles (Caretta Caretta). They feed on blue crab that live in the river. We pulled up to another boat that had a stash of blue crabs. They put the crabs on a string to draw the turtles near the surface for the tourists to see them.
Relaxing on Iztuzu Beach
From there, it was a short ride to Iztuzu Beach where we were given a couple hours to relax. One side of the beach faces the Mediterranean Sea while the other side touches the Dalyan River. Offshore is a small islet where yachts and sailboats like to stop. It’s also a nesting ground for the loggerhead turtles.
After our beach time was up, we got back on the boats and cruised to Dalyan where I got on a bus and was transferred to Bodrum. It was a very long drive to and from Dalyan, but I’m glad I went and got to experience the beach.
