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The Agora was the center of life in ancient Athens. It’s located northwest of the Acropolis and between the Monastiraki and Thiseio neighborhoods.
History of the Ancient Agora of Athens
The Agora was the city’s commercial and political center starting in the 6th century BC and was where the concept of democracy was first practiced. It was also the center of education, philosophy, and culture as well as a social gathering place. It reached its final form in the 2nd century during the Roman period.
The Agora was looted and destroyed several times, including by the Persians in 480 BC; the Romans under Sulla (138-78 BC) in 86 BC; and the Heruli in 267. It was abandoned after raids by the Slavs in 580 and repopulated in the 10th century. By the 19th century, it was buried under a densely populated neighborhood.
The first excavations took place from 1859 to 1908 under the Archaeological Society of Athens and the German Archaeological Institute from 1896 to 1897. Since 1931, excavations have been carried out under the American School of Classical Studies at Athens (ASCSA).
Visiting the Ancient Agora of Athens
The entrance to the Agora is along Adrianou in Monastiraki. From April 1 through October 31, admission is at the full rate of €10, and from November 1 through March 31, admission is at a 50% reduced rate of €5 (as of July 2024). Upon presentation of a passport or valid travel document: all visitors up to the age of 5 and EU citizens from age 6-25 are admitted free of charge; and EU seniors over age 65 and non-EU citizens from age 6-25 are admitted at the 50% reduced rate (summer months only). Check the official website for more info.
You can also visit on a combo ticket for €30 that gives access to several archaeological sites in Athens including the Acropolis (as of July 2024). The combo ticket is only worth buying during the summer season, however.
East Side of the Ancient Agora of Athens
I’ll cover everything in the Agora starting on the east side and work my way through the different sections of the site. At the end, I’ll cover monuments that are only visible from the streets outside the archaeological site. First of all, the east side of the ancient Agora of Athens is dominated by the Stoa of Attalos. There are a few other smaller monuments along the way.
Monopteros
Walking south from the entrance of the Agora towards the Stoa of Attalos, the first structure of note is the Monopteros. It was a small circular building 7.17 meters in diameter surrounded by a colonnade of eight green marble columns. It had a roof topped with Pentelic marble and was most likely used as a spring house. The Monopteros is dated to the middle of the 2nd century during the Roman period. It was destroyed either by the Heruli during the Sack of Athens in 267 or in the early 4th century. It was first excavated in 1936 and again in 1951.
Bema
A few steps away is the Bema, or Speaker’s Platform, which was constructed sometime in the mid to late 2nd century BC. It was used by orators to address citizens of Athens. The Bema measured 5.6 × 8.35 meters and contained stairways on each side to provide access to the top.
The most famous speech at the Bema took place in 88 BC, when Peripatetic philosopher Athenion urged the Athenians to side against Rome in the First Mithridatic War. This eventually led to the sacking of the city by Sulla in 86 BC. The Bema was excavated in 1937 and only the foundations exist today.
Donor’s Monument
The Donor’s Monument is a pedestal that sits in front of the Stoa of Attalos. It dates to around 150 BC and was dedicated by the people of Athens to King Attalus II of Pergamon, the builder of the Stoa of Attalos. It once held brass statue of Attalus II driving a chariot. In 14 AD, the monument was rededicated to Roman Emperor Tiberius, who was very popular in Athens at the time.
The Donor’s Monument, which was destroyed in the 3rd century, was thought to have been a tall structure, much like the Monument of Agrippa on the Acropolis. Fragments containing honorary inscriptions were incorporated into the Late Roman Wall (see below), allowing archaeologists to identify the monument.
Stoa of Attalos
The Stoa of Attalos was one of the most important buildings in the Agora of ancient Athens.
Peristyle Court
Before the Stoa of Attalos, the site was occupied by the Peristyle Court, which is dated to the 3rd quarter of the 4th century BC. It was a walled square building that housed one of the city’s law courts. It featured an inner Doric colonnaded peristyle. Each side was 38.75 meters long and each colonnade was 8.6 meters long. The Peristyle Court was demolished to make way for the Stoa of Attalos. Parts of the building were used to construct the South Stoa II.
History of the Stoa of Attalos
The Stoa of Attalos was built around 150 BC by King Attalus II of Pergamon. It was a gift to the city of Athens in return for the education he received there under ancient Greek philosopher Carneades (214-129 BC). Attalus’ father and older brother had previously made significant contributions to Athens.
The Stoa of Attalos was an important place for Athenians to meet and conduct business until it was destroyed by the Heruli during the Sack of Athens in 267. It was completely destroyed in the late 3rd century when the Late Roman Wall was constructed to deter future raids. Three of the towers on the wall were built on the entrance of the stoa’s shops.
Excavations
Parts of the Stoa of Attalos, particularly the northern end, remained visible into the 19th century. At that time, scholars believed the ruins belonged to either the Painted Stoa or the Gymnasium of Ptolemy. Excavations in 1859 under the Archaeological Society of Athens shifted course towards the Stoa of Attalos. This theory was proven correct in 1861 with the construction of the Metropolitan Railway, when an inscription naming King Attalos II as the donor was unearthed. The American School of Classical Studies at Athens excavated the stoa between 1949 and 1953.
Reconstruction
In 1948, Canadian archaeologist Homer Thompson (1906-2000) proposed the reconstruction of the Stoa of Attalos. He envisioned the building serving as a museum for archaeological finds from the Agora. The Greek government accepted the proposal, and the construction was financially supported by American donors including John D. Rockefeller Jr. (1874-1960).
The stoa was rebuilt starting in June 1953 using plans drawn by Greek architect Ioannis Travlos (1908-1985). The original foundations were used and the building incorporated as much of the original materials as possible. This included Pentelic marble, limestone from Piraeus, and clay roof tiles from Attica. The materials and attention to detail made the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos as faithful a replica of the original building as possible. It was formally dedicated on September 3, 1956.
Architecture
The Stoa of Attalos is 115 meters wide by 20 meters deep. It has two floors with two aisles separated by an interior row of columns. The exterior columns on the ground floor are of the Doric order and fluted, while the interior columns are of the Ionic order and smooth. On the upper floor, the exterior columns are Ionic and the interior columns are Pergamene.
The original building had space for 21 shops on both floors. Stairways lead up to the upper floor on both ends of the building.
Museum of the Ancient Agora
As per Homer Thompson’s vision, the Museum of the Ancient Agora is housed in the Stoa of Attalos.
Ground Floor
On the ground floor of the stoa, just outside the shops, are large statues and architectural pieces. This includes the statue of Hadrian once used as a cover for the Great Drain and the cult statue of Apollo Patroos by Euphranor.
Among the architectural pieces are parts of the stage front of the Odeon of Agrippa as well as a 5th century BC Ionic column capital with traces of painted decoration.
circa 15 BC
Other impressive pieces include a pair of statues that probably stood at the Library of Pantainos, a statue believed to be Themis that stood in front of the Stoa Basileios, and a detailed votive relief. According to the description, the relief “depicts Hermes handing over the infant Dionysos to the Nymphs in the Cave of Pan” and was dedicated by Neoptolemos from the deme of Melite.
Shops
Of the 21 shops on the ground floor, ten have been unified to form a continuous museum gallery. Protruding display cases as well as unpolished marble floor tiles mark the position of the walls that once separated the shops.
The gallery in the shops is presented in chronological order from the Late Neolithic period through the Roman and Byzantine periods. It features some of the most impressive small finds from the Ancient Agora of Athens and its environs.
Artifacts on display include pottery, weapons, statues, busts, coins, and inscriptions as well as glass and bronze objects. Items of special importance are typically housed in the glass cases in the center of the gallery.
Bronze Items
Some of the items that caught my eye were the items made of bronze. One is a bronze Spartan shield taken as loot in the Battle of Pylos during the Peloponnesian War.
Another display contains fragments attributed to a bronze equestrian statue honoring Demetrios Poliorketes (337-283 BC). It’s dated to 300 BC. Poliorketes “liberated Athens from the tyrant Demetrios Phalereos (c. 350 – c. 280 BC) and reestablished democracy in the city”.
Upper Floor
The upper floor of the Stoa of Attalos contains hermae and sculptures as well as historic images of ancient sites in Athens.
The south end of the upper floor displays models of important ancient sites in Athens. They include the Agora, Acropolis, and the Pnyx.
Views
In addition to the exhibitions, the upper floor of the Stoa of Attalos is a great place for views over the entire Agora. The most spectacular sight is the Temple of Hephaestus on the west side.
Late Roman Wall
On the south end of the Stoa of Attalos, parts of the Late Roman Wall, also known as the Post-Herulian Wall, come into view. The Late Roman Wall was built shortly after the raid by the Heruli in 267. It began at the Beulé Gate of the Acropolis and followed the path of the Panathenaic Way. The wall incorporated the ruins of the Stoa of Attalos and Hadrian’s Library, and likely swung back around to the northeast corner of the Acropolis. This left the Agora outside the city’s fortifications.
The Late Roman Wall, which was used until the 17th century, included defensive towers and gates for the city’s main traffic arteries. One of the gates was on the street that led from the Agora to the Roman Agora past the Library of Pantainos.
The Late Roman Wall was made entirely of fragments and architectural pieces taken from ruined structures. These fragments sometimes include inscriptions that have given archaeologists priceless information about the history of Athens as well as help in identifying ancient buildings.
Panathenaic Way
Finally, it should be noted that the path along the east side of the Agora follows the Panathenaic Way, which passed diagonally through the central square of the Agora. It stretched from the Dipylos Gate of Kerameikos all the way to the Acropolis. It had a length of 1,050 meters and a width of between 10 and 20 meters. The road was built in the 6th century BC and maintained through the Roman period.
The Panathenaic Way was mostly gravel but a small stretch was paved with stone in the 2nd century. Those paving blocks can be found along part of the Late Roman Wall.
The Panathenaic Way was one of the most important roads in Athens, passing significant temples, government offices, and commercial areas. The Panathenaea Festival followed the road, during which foot races and chariot races were held.
South Side of the Ancient Agora of Athens
Next, I’ll work my way from east to west along the south side of the ancient Agora of Athens into the southwest corner.
Church of the Holy Apostles
Next, working from east to west along the south side of the ancient Agora of Athens, is the Church of the Holy Apostles (Άγιοι Απόστολοι Σολάκη). It’s a small Byzantine church dating to the late 10th century and partially built over the Nymphaeum (see below). The church is the most prominent structure on the south side of the Agora.
The Church of the Holy Apostles was built on a cross-in-square plan with apses on each side and a narthex to the west. Four columns support the dome, and the altar and floor were originally marble. A few 17th century frescoes survive on the walls.
The Church of the Holy Apostles, along with the Temple of Hephaestus, are the only two structures from the Agora to remain completely intact since their construction. It was also the first Middle Byzantine period church in Athens. The church was restored to its original form between 1954 and 1957.
Nymphaeum
The Nymphaeum was a large semicircular fountain that supplied drinking water to the city. It was built by Roman Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century and wasn’t completed until 140, two years after his death. The Nymphaeum was adorned with sculptures received its water supply from a Hadrianic aqueduct also completed in 140. The structure is in very poor condition as it’s mostly covered by the Church of the Holy Apostles. Very little can be seen above ground.
Southeast Temple
The Southeast Temple was built atop the northern half of the Mint and discovered in 1959. It measured 20.6 meters wide by 12.1 meters deep. The Southeast Temple was relocated to the Agora from a different part of Attica, most likely during the reign of Roman Emperor Augustus in the late 1st century BC. Much of its material was incorporated into the Late Roman Wall.
Mint
The Mint was a large building measuring 27.2 meters from north to south and 28.9 meters from east to west. It was constructed in the last decade of the 5th century BC. It functioned as a mint during the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC and had an unknown use before that. The building was probably demolished in the 1st century BC and was later covered by other structures. The north end lies under the Church of the Holy Apostles, the Southeast Temple, and the Nymphaeum.
The Mint was excavated in 1952 and 1953 by American archaeologist Margaret Crosby (1902-1972). Homer Thompson carried out further excavations in 1959, followed by minor investigations by American archaeologist John Camp in 1978. The Mint was identified by coins and unminted metal discs found at the site as well as bronze smelting furnaces and water basins.
Southeast Fountain House
A few steps to the west is the Southeast Fountain House. It was built between 530 and 520 BC and is the best preserved ancient Greek structure on the south side of the Agora. It originally featured three rooms. Athenians would visit the fountain for drinking water. It measured 18.2 meters wide by 6.8 meters deep and its layout was modified over the centuries. The Southeast Fountain probably fell into disuse long before the Sack of Athens by the Heruli in 267.
South Stoa I
Next to the Southeast Fountain House is South Stoa I, which was built around 430 BC for hosting symposiums and official dinners. The stoa was used for commercial purposes before it was demolished around 150 BC and replaced by South Stoa II on the newly-formed South Square.
South Stoa I had 15 rooms of which 12 survive in fairly good condition. It measured 80.47 meters long and 14.89 meters deep. There were 45 unfluted outer columns and 22 inner columns, probably of the Ionic order. At some point, a staircase was built to provide access to the street behind the building and a possible upper floor. Only two stairs survive today.
South Stoa Ι was discovered in 1936 by American archaeologist Eugene Vanderpool (1906-1989) of the American School of Classical Studies at Athens. It was excavated by Margaret Crosby from 1952 to 1953 and John Camp from 1966 to 1967.
Aiakeion
Further along was an open-air sanctuary called the Aiakeion. It’s dated to 507 or 506 BC. That year, the Athenians received an oracle telling them to gain favor with the mythological hero Aeacus. If they did so, they would win the war against their neighbors: the Euboeans, Boeotians and Peloponnesians.
The Aiakeion was a square enclosure measuring 26.5 meters on its north and south sides, and 31 meters on its east and west sides. The walls were made of limestone from the island of Aegina, where Aeacus was from. The height of the walls is unknown, but they were most likely taller than the average person during antiquity. A peristyle was added to the interior of the Aiakeion in the 2nd century BC when it was incorporated into the South Square. The structure was thought to be at least partially roofed and there was most likely an altar inside.
The Aiakeion was mostly destroyed during the Roman siege in 86 BC. Marble workers, potters, and ironworkers used the ruins to build their workshops, which were cleared out in the early 2nd century. The city stored its grain supply there in the 4th century.
The structure was excavated in 1953 by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens and was originally identified as the courthouse of the Heliaia. An inscription dated 374 regarding the grain supply stored at the Aiakeion changed this perspective.
Water Clock
A water clock was added to the north wall of the Aiakeion at the end of the 4th century BC. It was the official clock of Athens until the Tower of the Winds was built in the 2nd century BC. The plug was pulled out at dawn each day and it took 17 hours to empty. A flotation device would record the hours as the water level fell.
In the 3rd century BC, the water clock was modified using technology from Alexandria. Auxiliary tanks and valves were added to provide constant water pressure. The tank became more accurate with water gradually filling it rather than emptying out. It would then be emptied at the end of the day.
Southwest Fountain House
On the west side of South Stoa I and past the Aiakion was the Southwest Fountain House. It was built in the 3rd quarter of the 4th century BC when Greece was experiencing a devastating drought. Due to its location and size, it was the most important public fountain of Athens at that time.
The Southwest Fountain House was L-shaped and had an internal row of columns separating the porch from the basin. It was about 17 meters long and 10.5 meters wide. The structure was enlarged in the late 4th century BC and modified in the 2nd century BC with the creation of the South Square. It was completely destroyed during the siege by Roman general Sulla in 86 BC and subsequently demolished. Excavations took place in 1934 and 1954, and the remains are in poor condition.
Roman Bath
On the terrace just south of the Southwest Fountain House are the remains of a small Roman bath. There’s no information about it posted at the site.
Triangular Shrine
The Triangular Shrine, which is very easy to miss, is the first structure encountered on the path leading southwest from the Southwest Fountain House. It dates to the 7th century BC and is believed to be a shrine of Hecate. It’s probably related to the worship of the dead at a nearby cemetery. Each side of the shrine was 8.67 meters long, and a Byzantine church was built on the site in the 11th or 12th century.
NE Bath
A bit further down the path is a bathhouse. There’s no information available, but a stone marker at the site labels it as the NE Bath with dates spanning the 2nd century BC to the 6th century AD.
State Prison
Next to the NE Bath is the State Prison, which was built around 450 BC. It had two rows of square rooms separated by a corridor, with five on one side and three on the other. There was a courtyard on the south side.
The discovery of a small statue of Socrates (c. 470 – 399 BC) as well as 13 small terracotta bottles used to store drugs led archaeologists to believe the structure was the State Prison. If so, Socrates was held there for a month as he awaited his execution. Popular belief falsely claims he was held in a small cave on the nearby Hill of the Muses (Philopappos Hill).
Ancient Streets
The State Prison sits along two ancient streets. To the west is the Street of the Marble Workers and to the north is the Road to Piraeus.
Roman Homes
On the next block west of the State Prison bordered by the Street of the Marble Workers and the Road to Piraeus are homes from the Roman period.
The South Roman House is protected by a canopy and a simple mosaic floor can be seen at the corner of the block. No information is listed at the site.
In addition to the Roman homes, if you explore the area north of the Road to Piraeus, you might spot the remains of a couple more simple mosaic floors.
South Square
The so-called South Square sat immediately north of the south side of the Agora. It was an enclosed space developed in the middle of the 2nd century BC and used as a commercial market. It was bound by the Middle Stoa to the north, South Stoa II to the south, and the East Building to the east. The west side was enclosed by the much older Aiakeion. There was also a small temple in the middle of the square. In the 5th century, the Palace of the Giants was built over the ruins of a large area of the South Square.
Middle Stoa
The Middle Stoa dominated the south side of the Agora. It opened to the center of the Agora, sitting perpendicular to the south end of the Stoa of Attalos. It was completed around 180 BC as a gift from Pharnaces I of Pontus. Several buildings south of the Tholos were demolished to accommodate the construction of the stoa.
The largest building of the Agora, the Middle Stoa measured 147 meters long by 17.5 meters wide. It had 160 Doric columns around its perimeter and 23 interior Ionic columns.
The Middle Stoa was built of poros stone and had a frieze containing marble metopes. It sits atop a foundation of red conglomerate stone, which can be seen on its west side.
The Middle Stoa was damaged during the siege by Roman general Sulla in 86 BC. It was completely destroyed by fire during the Sack of Athens by the Heruli in 267. The stoa was excavated between 1936 and 1951.
South Stoa II
South Stoa II sat parallel to the Middle Stoa. It was completed around 150 BC and built over the ruins of South Stoa I at a slightly different orientation. It had a mostly administrative function.
South Stoa II was built from recycled material from the Peristyle Court which was demolished to make way for the Stoa of Atttalos. The stoa measured 93 meters long by 8.5 meters deep and has only an exterior colonnade with no rooms behind it. There were 30 Doric columns on its north side spaced out every three meters and a small fountain on the south wall.
South Stoa II was destroyed during the Roman siege in 86 BC. Marble workers, potters, and ironworkers used the ruins to build their workshops. These shops were removed and the site was cleaned in the early 2nd century during the reign of Hadrian. The stoa was excavated in 1936, 1952 and 1953, and again in 1959.
East Building
Connecting South Stoa II and the Middle Stoa on the east side of the South Square was the East Building. It was likely a commercial and administrative building that also opened onto the Panathenaic Way to the east. The building measured 39.8 meters wide by 13.8 meters deep.
The east wing of the East Building consisted of a single room with a marble chip mosaic floor. It originally had 12 marble base blocks with cuttings for the feet of tables. Only four of those blocks survive today. The tables may have been used by bankers and moneychangers. The seat of the moneychangers at the Ancient Agora of Athens was the South Stoa starting in 430 BC and later the East Building starting in the middle of the 2nd century BC.
The floor level of the west wing of the building was 1.7 meters lower than the east wing. It had five square rooms with the central room containing a staircase joining the two levels.
The East Building was badly damaged during the Roman siege in 86 BC. It was rebuilt in the 2nd century. Excavation began in 1952, and archaeologists originally believed it was a stoa. Research continued until 1967.
Socrates and Confucius
Finally, in the middle of the South Square during my visit to the Agora in June 2023 was Socrates and Confucius: An Encounter. This sculpture was created by Chinese artist Wu Weishan in 2021. It catches the two philosophers from different cultures in an “impossible dialogue”
Agoraios Kolonos
Next, I’ll work my way up the Agoraios Kolonos, a small hill bordering the west side of the ancient Agora of Athens. The hill was a meeting place for ancient Athenian craftsmen. Aside from this, the Agoraios Kolonos has spectacular views of the Acropolis and overlooks the entire Agora.
Geometric Cemetery
On the path up the Agoraios Kolonos from the south is a Geometric period cemetery. There’s no relevant information at the site other than a label.
Strategeion
Just past the cemetery is the Strategeion, which was a trapezoidal chamber built atop two ancient graves. In the late 6th century BC, each of the ten tribes of Athens began to elect a Strategos to serve one-year terms as experts on military affairs, foreign policy, and security. The ten Strategoi would meet at the Strategeion. Strategos came to mean “general” in the Greek language, and the English word “strategy” derives from this word as well.
Temple of Hephaestus
At the top of the hill is the Temple of Hephaestus, which is one of the best preserved temples of the ancient Greek world.
The Temple of Hephaestus, or Hephaestion, was built between 446 and 442 BC by an unknown architect. It was dedicated to Hephaestus, the patron god of metalworking, carpenters, sculpture, artisans, craftsmanship, and fire; and Athena Ergane, the patron goddess of potters, weaving, and craft in general. Its location on the Agoraios Kolonos, the meeting place of ancient Athenian craftsmen, is fitting of its dedication.
In modern times, before it was identified as the Temple of Hephaestus, it was mistakenly called the Theseion as it was thought to have held the remains of Theseus.
Architecture
The Temple of Hephaestus measures 13.71 meters on its east and west sides and 31.78 meters on its north and south sides. The entire building was made of Pentelic marble, while architectural sculptures were created with marble from the island of Paros. The temple consists of a pronaos, cella, and an opisthodomos (back room).
The peristyle features 6 Doric columns on the short sides and 13 on the long sides, counting the corner columns twice. Two additional columns on the east and west sides stand at the entrance to the pronaos and opisthodomos.
The cella contains an inner Doric colonnade on the east and west sides consisting of five columns each and three columns on the west side, counting the corner columns twice. According to Greek traveler Pausanias (c. 110 – c. 180), the cella housed a pedestal containing bronze statues of Hephaestus and Athena. It originally had a wooden roof.
The roof around the peristyle of the temple is made of interlocking marble beams and coffered slabs. It’s a very intricate design and one of the most complex examples of its type. Each coffer was individually carved and the sunken part could only interlock with its own coffer.
Metopes
Metopes decorate the east, north, and south sides of the Temple of Hephaestus. They were probably added after 421 BC. Of the 68 metopes, 18 were sculpted and the rest were probably painted. The metopes are in a poor state of preservation due to their destruction by Christians.
The 10 metopes on the east side depicts the Labours of Hercules. The Labours of Theseus are depicted on the easternmost sections of the north and south sides, with four on each side.
Friezes
Continuous friezes decorate the pronaos and opisthodomos. The frieze of the pronaos depicts a scene of Theseus battling the Pallantides. The frieze of the opisthodomos depicts the battle between the Centaurs and Lapiths.
Garden
A garden was planted around the structure in the 3rd century BC, becoming an attraction in itself. It featured large clay flowerpots spaced out at regular intervals in two rows on the north and south sides and three rows on the west side. They contained pomegranate, myrtle, and laurel trees. Pomegranates and myrtles are planted there today, and the flowerpots are kept in the museum at the Stoa of Attalos.
Survival through the Years
The Temple of Hephaestus has had a long and storied history. It’s one of the very few structures to have escaped damage during the Sack of Athens by the Heruli in 267 and a raid by the Goths in the late 4th century. Its later conversion to a church helped preserve the structure throughout the centuries but also brought about the destruction of the metopes.
The Temple as the Church of Saint George
In the late 7th century, the temple was converted to a church dedicated to Saint George. This included many structural changes, including shifting the main entrance to the opisthodomos and replacing the pronaos with an apse. The wooden roof was replaced by a stone roof and a copula was placed over the cella. Two entrances were opened to the cella, one each on the north and south sides of the building. The north entrance has been closed up.
During the Ottoman occupation, the church was only used once a year. In the late 18th and early 19th centuries, it became an important burial place for non-Orthodox Christians. Among those interred were English traveler and archaeologist John Tweddel (1769-1799) as well as many who gave their lives for the cause of Greek independence from the Ottoman Empire between 1821 and 1829. The last Divine Liturgy celebrated at the church was on February 21, 1833, during the events surrounding the arrival of King Otto in Greece.
Post-Church and Excavation
In 1834, the church was converted to a museum holding archaeological finds from all around Athens. it functioned as such until 1937, when the antiquities were moved to another site and excavations around the temple began. The interior was excavated and studied in 1950.
Arsenal
Finally, just north of the Temple of Hephaestus is the so-called Arsenal. It was built sometime between 290 and 260 BC and was believed to be a storage room for weapons and military equipment. It was probably destroyed during the siege by Roman general Sulla in 86 BC and never replaced. Its remains were plundered for building material. The Arsenal was excavated in 1936 by American archaeologist Dorothy Thompson (1900-2001), and in 1937 by her husband Homer Thompson. Only the southeast and northwest cornerstones survive.
West Side of the Ancient Agora of Athens
Next, I’ll walk down the Agoraios Kolonos and cover the west side of the ancient Agora of Athens.
Temple of Zeus Phratrios and Athena Phratria
First, is the small Temple of Zeus Phratrios and Athena Phratria. It dates to the 2nd quarter of the 4th century BC and survived until the Roman period. The temple had one door on its east side and a propylon was added in the 2nd century BC. The Romans likely installed marble slabs on the floor. The Archaeological Society of Athens excavated the temple in the early 20th century followed by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens in 1934.
Temple of Apollo Patroos
The Temple of Apollo Patroos was a small Ionic temple built atop an earlier building sometime between 338 and 326 BC. It’s 10 meters wide and 16.5 meters deep and had six columns along its façade. It was made up of a pronaos, a cella, and a small room to the north of the cella.
Inside the cella was a cult statue of Apollo made by Greek sculptor Euphranor. It’s on display in the museum at the Stoa of Attalos. Two more statues of Apollo likely stood in the pronaos. One was made by Leochares in the 1st half of the 4th century BC. The other was the statue of Apollo Alexikakos, meaning “Apollo, averter of evil”, by Calamis. Apollo Alexikakos was dedicated after the end of the Plague of Athens, which ravaged the city from 429 to 426 BC.
The Temple of Apollo Patroos may have been in use until the 390s, when Roman Emperor Theodosius I ordered the closing of pagan temples. It was first excavated from 1895 to 1896 by the German Archaeological Institute. In 1907, the Archaeological Society of Athens resumed excavations and discovered the statue by Euphranor. The American School of Classical Studies at Athens completed excavations from 1931 to 1935 and successfully identified the building based on descriptions by Pausanias.
Benches
Built into the hill next to the Temple of Apollo Patroos are a set of benches, also known as the Synedrion. They date to the 2nd half of the 5th century BC and was where the early Boule (Council) or judicial bodies would meet.
Old Bouleuterion
A few steps to the south are the Old Bouleuterion, which was built in the late 6th century or early 5th century BC. It housed the first democratically elected Boule of ancient Athens. It was a simple building measuring 23.3 meters on the east and west sides and 23.8 meters on the north and south sides. There were two entrances on the south side.
The Old Bouleuterion consisted of an antechamber leading to a large chamber where the 500-member Boule would meet daily. The Boule was made up of 50 citizens from each of the ten tribes of Athens. They prepared legislative bills that were voted on by the Assembly of the People (Ekklisia of the Demos). The large chamber contained wooden benches arranged in a Π shape and five interior columns arranged on a Π shape as well. The building was in use until about 410 BC when it was replaced by the New Bouleuterion. After that, it housed public records and the cult statue of the Mother of the Gods (Meter).
Metroon
Around 150 BC, the Old Bouleuterion was demolished and replaced by the Metroon. It consisted of four rooms and had mostly the same function as the Old Bouleterion: housing public records, law codes, financial records, and legal documents. The second room from the south contained the cult statue of the Mother of the Gods, from which the name of the building was derived.
The Metroon was destroyed during the Sack of Athens by the Heruli in 267. During the Byzantine period, parts of the building were probably used as a tavern, synagogue, and oil press. The German Archaeological Institute surveyed the ruins from 1895 to 1896 followed by the Archaeological Society of Athens from 1907 to 1908. It was excavated and properly identified from 1934 to 1935 by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens. Only the foundations and very little of the superstructure survive.
New Bouleuterion
The New Bouleuterion was built directly to the west of the Old Bouleuterion before 412/411 BC. It measured 22.5 meters on the north and south sides and 17.5 meters on the east and west sides. The roof was supported by four interior columns and there were 12 rows of seats in a semicircular arrangement. Like the Old Bouleuterion, there were initially wooden benches but they were later replaced by marble seats.
In the 2nd half of the 4th century BC, a monumental propylon was built at the entrance, which was the southeast corner of the Old Bouleuterion. The building was destroyed by the Heruli in 267 and rebuilt, although its later function is uncertain. It was excavated by the Archaeological Society of Athens from 1907 to 1908 and again by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens from 1934 to 1935.
Tholos
The Tholos, or Skias, sitting to the south, was one of the most important public buildings in the Agora. It was built between 470 and 460 BC and was a circular building 18.32 meters in diameter. A propylon was added to the east in the 1st century BC and the floor was paved with marble slabs in the 2nd century during the Roman period.
The Tholos was the headquarters of the Prtyaneia, or executive committee of the Boule. The Prytaneia was held by one of the ten tribes of Athens on a rotating basis for 35 or 36 days, allowing each of the ten tribes to have a turn by the end of the year. 50 prytaneis, or chairmen of the presiding tribe, would stay in the Tholos until the end of their turn. ⅓ of the members stayed overnight so there would always be officials on hand. Small rooms to the north and west served as a kitchen and storeroom for catering to the prytaneis, and the expenses were covered by the state.
In addition to the prytaneis, the Tholos also housed secretaries and other officials as well as the city’s standards of measurement. It was used until the end of the 4th century or early 5th century. Excavations took place in 1933 and 1934 while further research was carried out in 1936 and 1937.
North Side of the Ancient Agora of Athens
Next, I’ll walk back to the north side of the Agora near the tourist entrance before finishing in the center of the archaeological site.
Container for Offerings for the Dead
First, just inside the entrance to the Agora is a container for offerings for the dead. It was built in the 5th century BC. There’s no other information posted.
Altar of the Twelve Gods
Walking west along the path on the north side of the Agora is a small corner that remains of the Altar of the Twelve Gods. It was an important structure from which all distances in Attica were measured. The altar was considered the heart of Athens and the Agora and was a popular place of asylum. Nearly 90% of the structure lies under Line 1 of the Athens Metro.
According to ancient Greek historian Thucydides (c. 460 – c. 400 BC), the Altar of the Twelve Gods was dedicated by Peisistratos the Younger, in 522/521 BC. He was the son of Hippias (c. 570 – 490 BC) and grandson of Peisistratos (c. 600 – 527 BC). The actual altar sat at the center of an enclosure with a paved floor measuring 9.85 meters on the north and south sides and 9.35 meters on the east and west sides. The structure was destroyed in the 3rd century.
The altar was excavated in 1891 during construction of the Metropolitan Railway. German archaeologist Wilhelm Dörpfeld (1853-1940) initially identified it as the Leokoreion. Further excavation by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens in 1934 correctly identified it as the Altar of the Twelve Gods thanks to an inscription on a marble statue base found nearby. The statue was dedicated to Leagros, an Athenian general killed in 461 BC. A further examination was carried out in 1946.
Late Roman House
Near the Altar of the Twelve Gods are the remains of a Late Roman period house. It was constructed in the 5th century and consisted of rooms arranged around three sides of a peristyle courtyard. The main entrance was on the east side of the house. It may have had a connection with the Palace of the Giants.
Altar of Zeus
The Altar of Zeus sits to the west of the Late Roman house. It may date to the 6th century BC and was replaced with a larger structure in the late 1st century BC or early 1st century AD. The only surviving part is the foundation, which measures 13.25 meters by 7.2 meters. The altar was probably related to the worship of Zeus Eleftherios.
Stoa of Zeus Eleftherios
West of the altar is the Stoa of Zeus Eleftherios, which is one of the oldest monumental religious buildings in the ancient Agora of Athens. This stoa was built sometime between 430 and 420 BC atop a 6th century BC structure, possibly an earlier shrine of Zeus Eleftherios. Apart from housing the cult of Zeus Eleftherios, it was also a popular meeting place. Socrates was a frequent visitor.
The Stoa of Zeus Eleftherios was a Π shaped building. There was an exterior colonnade of 25 Doric columns and a double interior colonnade of seven Ionic columns. All of the columns were made of Pentelic marble. According to Pausanias, the interior contained wall paintings by 4th century BC artist Euphranor.
In the 2nd century BC, a small rectangular building was added to the rear of the stoa. In the late 1st century BC or early 1st century AD, the Romans added two more rooms to the west. They cut into the hill to allow for construction of the rooms. At the same time, the stoa’s floor was paved with marble slabs. They were removed in the 5th century after the building was destroyed.
The northern section of the Stoa of Zeus Eleftherios was excavated in 1891 during construction of the Metropolitan Railway and remains covered by the tracks. In 1931, it was the first building exposed by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens.
Center of the Ancient Agora of Athens
The last section I’ll cover within the archaeological site itself is the center of the ancient Agora of Athens.
Temple of Ares
First, near the entrance to the ancient Agora of Athens is an empty space that once held the Temple of Ares. It was built between 436 and 432 BC in another location, most likely the Mesogeia region of Attica. Sometime during the reign of Roman Emperor Augustus, possibly around 2 AD, it was dismantled and relocated to the Agora. The Temple of Ares was almost identical to the Temple of Hephaestus.
The temple was destroyed during the Sack of Athens by the Heruli in 267. Pieces of it were incorporated into the Late Roman Wall. According to 15th century Byzantine author Georgios Kodinos, it’s also highly likely that reliefs of elephants on the Golden Gate of the Theodosian Walls of Constantinople (now Istanbul) are also from the temple. The Temple of Ares was excavated in 1937 and is in very poor condition. Only a few architectural fragments were found.
Altar of Ares
The Altar of Ares sits about 10 meters east of the Temple of Ares and north of the Odeon of Agrippa. It measures 8.9 meters by 6.8 meters and the foundation is all that remains. The altar was transferred to the Agora with the temple and dates to the 2nd half of the 4th century BC.
Odeon of Agrippa
The Odeon of Agrippa was one of the most prominent buildings in the ancient Agora of Athens. It was built by Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa (63 BC – 12 BC), a Roman general and the son-in-law of Roman Emperor Augustus, as a gift to the people of Athens in 15 BC.
The Odeon of Agrippa was situated just north of the so-called South Square. Its construction transformed the center of the Agora from a commercial center to a cultural and artistic center. Agrippa was later honored with the Monument of Agrippa on the Acropolis.
First Phase
The Odeon of Agrippa was originally a two-story amphitheatre with 19 rows of seating and a capacity of 1,000 people. It was 51.38 meters long on the north and south sides and 43.2 meters long on the east and west sides. The east, west, and south sides contained two-story stoas. There were entrances on both sides of the building. The main entrance was on the south side with access to the Middle Stoa, while the VIP entrance was on the north side via a monumental propylon.
The hall was approximately 25 meters long and was covered by a pitched roof with no interior support. The stage building was decorated with sculptures while bronze statues stood in niches along the walls.
Second Phase
The roof collapsed around 150 and the building was immediately rebuilt on a new design. The amphitheatre was divided into two rooms, halving the seating capacity in the process. The north wall was completely removed and replaced with an open-air stoa resting on sculptures of Giants and Tritons.
Destruction and Excavation
The building continued to be used as an odeon until around 174, when the Odeon of Herodes Atticus was completed on the south slope of the Acropolis. After that, it was mostly used for lectures until it burned down during the Sack of Athens by the Heruli in 267.
The Odeon of Agrippa was excavated by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens from 1934 to 1936. Further research was done in 1937 and 1940.
Palace of the Giants
The so-called Palace of the Giants was built on the site of the Odeon of Agrippa around 410 and stood until around 530. It covered much of the central and south side of the Agora, including parts of the Middle Stoa and South Stoa II.
The Palace of the Giants contained a bath complex, two colonnaded courtyards, and a large garden to the south. A monumental entrance facing the Panathenaic Way incorporated sculptures of the Giants and Tritons from the Odeon placed on pillars. In all, the palace occupied a space of about 13,500 square meters.
The palace was originally identified as a gymnasium, but may have been the palace of a high-ranking official. It’s quite possible it was the residence of the family of Aelia Eudocia (c. 401-460), the Athenian wife of Roman Emperor Theodosius II.
Altar of Zeus Agoraios
A short walk south of the Temple of Ares is the Altar of Zeus Agoraios, which dates to the 4th century BC. It was made of white marble and measured 9 meters wide by 5.5 meters deep. It was one of the first objects discovered in the Agora during excavations by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens in 1931.
The altar was relocated to the Agora around the same time as the Temple of Ares. Its original location is uncertain, but it’s quite possible it originally stood on the Pnyx.
Monument of the Eponymous Heroes
Next to the Altar of Zeus Agoraios is the Monument of the Eponymous Heroes, which was a 16 meter long marble pedestal topped with statues of the heroes of the tribes of Athens. It dates to the 3rd quarter of the 4th century BC and originally sat at the west end of the Middle Stoa. Wooden boards hung on the sides of the monument with announcements for proposed legislation, legal decrees, army conscriptions, lawsuits, honorary distinctions, and more.
Archaeologists have identified five building phases of the monument. Each phase consisted of modifications accounting for the expansion or contraction of the number of tribes. In the initial phase, the monument was topped with ten bronze statues: Erechtheus, Aegeus, Pandion, Leos, Acamas, Oeneus, Cecrops II, Hippothoon, Ajax, and Antiochus.
The second phase, in 307 BC or shortly after, saw Macedonian King Antigonus I (382-301 BC) and his son, Demetrius Poliorketes (337-283 BC) added to the monument. They were removed in 200 BC and replaced with Attalus I of Pergamon. In the third phase, which took place in 223 BC, Ptolemy III Euergetes of Egypt was added.
The monument was destroyed during the siege by Roman general Sulla in 86 BC and subsequently rebuilt, marking the fourth phase. A statue of Eponymous Archon Demetrius was added in 50/49 BC and stood for several years.
Finally, during the fifth phase, the Romans rebuilt the fence with marble posts. The Athenians added a statue honoring Roman Emperor Hadrian in 124/125. The Monument of the Eponymous Heroes was excavated in 1931 and 1932 by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens. It was partially rebuilt in 1951 and further investigations were conducted in 1967.
Great Drain
Running west of the monument is the best visible example of the Great Drain. It was constructed to flush waste from the Agora and rainwater from the surrounding hills out to the Eridanos River. The drain is one meter wide and one meter deep. It crosses the west side of the Agora from south to north.
At the beginning of the 4th century BC, branches were added to the southwest and southeast to bring waste and rainwater from other sections of the Agora into the main channel.
In late antiquity, a statue of Hadrian was used as a cover slab for the drain. A replica of the statue is situated near the north side of the drain within the archaeological site while the original is in the museum.
Civic Offices
South of the Monument of the Eponymous Heroes are the remains of civic offices. The building consisted of two wings separated by a colonnade. The east wing had one room while the west wing had four. In front of the structure are two marble official standards regarding the manufacture of terracotta roof tiles. Only the west wing is pictured here. On my next trip to Athens, I’ll take photos of the colonnade and east wing if possible.
House of Simon
Just west of the civic offices was the House of Simon, which was originally built in the late 6th century BC. It was rebuilt sometime after the Persian sack of Athens in 479 BC. The house contained two rooms and a courtyard with a well and cistern. The area was cleared in the 2nd century BC to make way for the Middle Stoa, but the house had likely been demolished long before.
The House of Simon was excavated in 1953 and identified thanks to a cup with “Simon” inscribed on its stem. Items common to shoemaking were also unearthed. While the house is not important, its connection to Socrates is. Simon the Cobbler was a friend of the famous philosopher, who frequented his workshop and often lectured inside. Simon and Socrates’ students wrote down these dialogues and later compiled 33 of them into a book.
Southwest Temple
Finally, just north of the civic offices was the Southwest Temple. It measures 20.5 meters on the north and south sides and 10.5 meters on the east and west sides.
The temple was relocated to the Agora during the reign of Augustus, sometime between 15 BC and the early 1st century, and may have originally stood in the deme of Thoricus. It was excavated in 1933 and 1934, and again in 1951. Not much of the temple remains, but some fragments were used to construct the Late Roman Wall.
Monuments Outside the Archaeological Site
There are a few monuments that are only visible from outside the boundaries of the archaeological site of the ancient Agora of Athens.
Basilica
First, from Adrianou Street just east of the entrance to the archaeological site and just north of the railway tracks are the remains of a Roman basilica. It was constructed in the 2nd century during the reign Hadrian. It functioned as an administrative building and was arranged in three aisles.
The basilica was badly damaged during the Sack of Athens by the Heruli in 267 and was never rebuilt. Athenians used its remains as material for other buildings, mostly private residences, through the 5th century. Much of the basilica was destroyed in 1891 during construction of the Metropolitan Railway, but Wilhelm Dörpfeld was able to plot its foundation. The majority lies underneath modern homes to the north, and what was left exposed was excavated in 1970.
Homes and Shops
To the east of the basilica are the remains of Roman homes and shops from the Classical and Hellenistic periods.
Stoa Basileios
West of the entrance to the ancient Agora of Athens and north of the tracks are the remains of the Stoa Basileios, or Royal Stoa. It was the seat of the Archon Basileus, who was responsible for the Eleusinian Mysteries and the Lenaia as well as some juridical duties. Socrates appeared there to answer charges brought forth by his accuser Meletus.
The Stoa Basileios was constructed after 480 BC. It had a colonnade of eight Doric columns. It measured 17.72 meters wide by 7.57 meters deep. Around 410 BC, a wing was added, and ten years later, another wing was added to the south. The stoa was damaged by fire during the siege by Roman general Sulla in 86 BC. It was destroyed by the Heruli in 267 and subsequently rebuilt, remaining in use until it was abandoned in the early 6th century.
The Stoa Basileios was excavated in June 1970 and again from 1982 to 1983. The south end lies under the tracks of the Metropolitan Railway, otherwise it’s in fairly good condition.
Painted Stoa
Just north of Adrianou is a lot containing the remains of the Painted Stoa, or Stoa Poikile. It was built sometime between 475 and 465 BC and was one of the most important buildings in the Agora. It was a popular meeting place and the preferred classroom of Greek philosopher Zeno (c. 334 – c. 262 BC), who founded the Stoic school of philosophy. People initiated into the Eleusinian Mysteries were recorded there, and law courts met there under extraordinary circumstances.
The name of the Painted Stoa comes from the wooden panel paintings that adorned it. They were created by the best artists of Classical Greece: Polygnotus, Micon, and Panaenus. According to Pausanias, the paintings depicted both mythological and historical Athenian military victories, the most celebrated being the Battle of Marathon by Panaenus. Shortly before 396, the paintings were removed by the Roman proconsul and did not survive.
Just west of the Painted Stoa is a commercial building constructed around 420 BC. It was used until the 5th century. Both the stoa and shops were abandoned by the 6th century, and material from the stoa was used to construct a wall. Excavations began in 1981 and continue today.
Library of Pantainos
Just south of the Stoa of Attalos is the Library of Pantainos. Only partially excavated, it consisted of a large square room to the east and a paved open air courtyard to the west. It was surrounded by three stoas with shops behind their colonnades. The ruins are best seen from outside the archaeological site on Pikilis Street.
The Library of Pantainos was built sometime between 98 and 102 AD by Titus Flavius Pantainos and his children. It was dedicated to Athena Archegetis, Emperor Trajan, and the people of Athens. Statues of Trajan found in the ruins indicated he may have been worshipped there. Some scholars also believe the library functioned as an important philosophical school. It was destroyed by the Heruli during the Sack of Athens in 267.
The library was discovered in 1935 during excavations of the Late Roman Wall that began two years earlier. The eastern part of the building was excavated in 1971. An inscription found there states “No book is to be taken out since we have sworn an oath. The library is to be open from the first hour until the sixth.”
Eleusinion
Outside the southeast corner of the ancient Agora of Athens was the Eleusinion, which held all the sacred object associated with the Eleusinian Mysteries. The first structure was built in the second quarter of the 5th century BC, although worship had already started in the area in the 6th century BC in an open-air shrine.
The temple measured approximately 11 x 18 meters and contained statues of Demeter, Kore, and Iakkhos. A propylon and colonnade were built south of the temple in the 2nd century BC. The complex was closed in the 4th century and very few excavations have been carried out. The site was not open to the public at the time of my visit.
