Last updated on .
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Ναός του Παναγίου Τάφου / Ecclesia Sancti Sepulchri / כנסיית הקבר / كنيسة القيامة) contains the two holiest sites in Christianity: Golgotha where Jesus was crucified, and the empty tomb where he was buried and resurrected. It also contains the last five stations of the Via Dolorosa and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listed Old City of Jerusalem. It’s located in the city’s Christian Quarter.
History of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre was commissioned by Constantine the Great and built between 326 and 335. It sits on the site his mother Helen determined as the crucifixion and tomb of Christ. The church was destroyed by fire in May 614 during an invasion by the Sassanids. It was rebuilt in 630 by Byzantine Emperor Heraclius.
When the Muslims took control of Jerusalem in 637, Caliph Omar ibn al-Khattab promised protection of the city’s Christian sites and prohibited their destruction. On October 18, 1009, Fatimid Caliph Al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah ordered the destruction of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and other Christian sites in Palestine and Egypt, an event later used as motivation for the Crusades.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre was rebuilt between 1028 and 1048 after negotiations between the Fatimids and the Byzantine Empire. It remained intact as Jerusalem changed hands between the Crusaders, Saladin, Latins, Khwarazmians, and the Ottomans. In 1555, the Franciscans carried out renovations. After that, control of the church bounced between the Orthodox and the Franciscans, depending on who could muster favor with the Ottoman government.
Status Quo
In 1757, Ottoman Sultan Osman III instituted the Status Quo, preserving the division of ownership and responsibilities of Christian holy sites as they were. The Status Quo was further strengthened in decrees issued by Sultan Abdülmecid I in 1852 and 1853, meaning no changes could be made without the consensus of all six Christian communities.
The majority of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is shared by the Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic, and Armenian Apostolic churches. In the 19th century, the Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox, and Ethiopian Orthodox churches were given smaller spaces and lesser responsibilities.
Visiting the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The best time to visit the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is early in the morning before the crowds arrive or late in the afternoon. During several visits, we there by 8:30am and queues were forming by 9am.
Courtyard of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The courtyard of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is known as the parvis. It’s entered from either the west or east. The entrance from the west is through a doorway and down several steps. The entrance from the east is at street level near the Muristan complex. The courtyard measures about 20 meters on each side. In the past, it functioned as a market.
Bell Tower of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The courtyard is surrounded by several structures and points of interest on each side. First of all, the bell tower was built by the Crusaders in the 12th century. It was once much taller. In 1545, the upper level collapsed, and in 1719, two more stories collapsed.
Entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
To the right of the bell tower is the entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Today there’s only one entrance portal. It used to consist of two large portals, but the one to the right was sealed in 1187. The portals are flanked by 11 marble pillars topped with Corinthian capitals.
The Muslim Nusaybah family have been the doorkeepers since the 7th century, appointed as an impartial party to the church’s different denominations. The key is made of iron and 30 centimeters (12 inches) long. A Greek Orthodox doorman is required to be present for the official opening and closing of the church.
Cracked Pillar
The middle pillar to the left of the entrance contains a large crack running down its length. in 1580, the Armenians successfully bribed the Ottoman authorities to block Greek Orthodox Patriarch Sophronios IV from entering the church to perform the ceremony of the Holy Light. The Armenian patriarch couldn’t get the Holy Light to shine within the tomb of Jesus or anywhere else in the church.
During these attempts, the pillar cracked open while Patriarch Sophronios IV stood next to it, and the Holy Light shined through the crack. The Armenian patriarch left the church in shame. When Ottoman Sultan Murad III heard about the miracle, he issued a decree recognizing the Greek Orthodox Patriarch’s exclusive right to receive the Holy Light.
Also, according to tradition, a Muslim guard of the church named Emir Tounom witnessed the miracle. He was so impressed by what he saw, he uttered the phrases “great is the faith of the Greeks” and “behold the true faith”. It’s believed that Emir Tounom converted to Christianity and was later burned alive by the Ottomans in order to silence him. His relics are kept in the Monastery of Megali Panagia.
Immovable Ladder
On the window above the entrance is the Immovable Ladder, which has been in place since at least 1728. It hasn’t been moved since Status Quo was established in 1757, except for two temporary occasions. The ladder was used by Armenian monks, who control the window, ladder, and ledge. They used the ledge as a balcony to get fresh air and sunshine.
Tomb of Philip d’Aubigny
Just right of the entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, is the tomb of Crusader Philip d’Aubigny (1166-1236). His ledger stone was discovered in 1925. It was placed below ground level and covered by a grate to protect it from future wear. I’ll try to get a better picture next time.
Chapel of the Franks
Continuing clockwise is the Catholic Chapel of the Franks, dedicated to Our Lady of Sorrows. It was built in the 12th century and used to give direct access to Golgotha. The chapel marks the 10th Station of the Cross where Jesus was stripped of His clothes. It’s possible to peek in from an interior window at Golgotha.
Chapel of St. Mary
A Greek Orthodox chapel dedicated to St. Mary of Egypt sits underneath the Chapel of the Franks. St. Mary arrived in Jerusalem at the age of 29 and converted to Christianity. According to tradition, the chapel marks the spot where she tried to enter the Church of Holy Sepulchre but was stopped by an invisible force.
On her third try, St. Mary realized it was her impurity and life of sin that prevented her from entering. After praying to the Virgin Mary and begging for forgiveness, she was finally allowed to enter. The door to the right is the entrance to an Ethiopian chapel. On my next visit to Jerusalem, I’ll try and get a better picture of the chapel.
East Side of the Courtyard of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
On the east side of the courtyard is the Greek Orthodox Monastery of Abraham; the Armenian Chapel of St. John; the Coptic Chapel of St. Michael; and the Coptic Chapel of the Four Living Creatures.
Deir es-Sultan
The east side of the courtyard provides access to the Coptic monastery of Deir es-Sultan, which sits on the rooftop of the Chapel of St. Helena. According to the Coptic Church, the space was granted to them by Umayyad caliph Abd al-Malik ibn Marwan (c. 647-705). It contains an olive tree that’s said to be 5,000 years old.
Convent of Gethsemane
On the south side, opposite the façade, is the small Greek Orthodox Convent of Gethsemane (Μετόχιον Γεθσημανῆς). Just in front are the bases of broken columns that once formed an arcade. They were destroyed by the Khwarazmians. Again, better pictures will come in the future.
West Side of the Courtyard of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
Finally, to the west of the courtyard are three Greek Orthodox chapels. They were once part of the baptistry complex of the church. The Chapel of St. James to the south was the vestibule, the Chapel of St. John the Baptist in the middle was the baptistery, and the Chapel of the 40 Martyrs of Sebaste, at the base of the bell tower, was the chrismation chamber. I don’t have to tell you I’ll take better photos on my next trip.
Golgotha (Calvary)
Golgotha (Γολγοθᾶ), or Calvary, sits just inside the entrance of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It was the area where Jesus was crucified. It sat immediately outside the city walls of Jerusalem at that time. Today, a set of stairs lead pilgrims up to the site.
Chapel of the Nailing of the Cross
Golgotha is split into two chapels, one belongs to the Roman Catholics and the other to the Greek Orthodox. The chapel immediately at the top of the stairs is the Franciscan Chapel of the Nailing of the Cross, which is the 11th Station of the Cross. It’s decorated with colorful mosaic images.
Chapel of the Crucifixion
Just north is the Greek Orthodox Chapel of the Crucifixion. Under the altar is a hole where pilgrims can touch the rock where the crucifixion took place. This marks the 12th Station of the Cross.
The rock of Golgotha sits under protective glass on either side of the altar. To the right of the altar and between the two chapels is a bust of the Virgin Mary, marking what many consider to be the 13th Station of the Cross.
The ceiling and arches of the Chapel of the Crucifixion are decorated with colorful frescoes, and the altar of the Catholicon is visible between the columns. The exit leads down to the main level. To the right is the ambulatory and to the left is the Stone of Unction and the way to the Rotunda.
Chapel of Adam
Directly underneath Golgotha is the Chapel of Adam, which dates back to the 11th century. According to Christian tradition, Jesus was crucified above the place where Adam’s skull was buried. Many believe the blood of Christ ran down the cross through the rocks and filled Adam’s skull.
A window in the apse of the chapel opens to a crack in the rock said to be caused by an earthquake immediately following Jesus’ death.
Greek Orthodox Treasury at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The door to the right of the Chapel of Adam is the Greek Orthodox Treasury. The first room is a small office containing several antique icons. The door on the east side of the office opens to the treasury.
The treasury contains the relics of several saints as well as an icon of Saints Constantine and Helen with a piece of the True Cross. The relics are displayed under glass cases and labeled in Greek.
Stone of Unction
The Stone of Unction sits just inside the entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It’s shared by the Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic, and Armenian Apostolic churches.
The Stone of Unction is a polished red stone on the spot where Christians believe Jesus’ body was placed after being removed from the cross. The body was then washed and anointed by Joseph of Arimathea, who was in charge of preparing the body for burial. The lamps hanging over the stone are contributed by the Greeks, Latins, Armenians, and Copts.
The Stone of Unction often bubbles with oil. Faithful Christians bring white cloths to collect the oil to take home. The current stone was added to the church during a reconstruction in 1810.
Wall Behind the Stone of Unction
The wall behind the stone was built by the Greek Orthodox, also during the reconstruction. It was meant to be a temporary addition to support the arch above it, which was damaged during a fire in 1808.
The wall sits atop what used to be the tombs of four 12th century Crusader kings, including Godfrey of Bouillon and Baldwin I. It has two balconies with beautiful blue and gold mosaics on their underside. The wall is not structurally necessary, but it blocks the view of the Rotunda and separates the entrance to the Catholicon.
A three part mosaic was added to the wall in 1990. It depicts from right to left the Descent from the Cross followed by the anointing of Jesus’ body and the Burial of Christ.
Rotunda of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The Rotunda is the area under the larger dome of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The original Rotunda was destroyed by fire in 1808. It was rebuilt between 1809 and 1810 by Greek architect Nikolaos Kalfa Komnenos of Mytilene. The underside of the dome is decorated with a starburst of light.
Edicule
In the center of the Rotunda is the Edicule, which is a small structure enclosing the Holy Sepulchre. The Edicule was also rebuilt in 1810 by Komnenos, and underwent restoration between May 2016 and March 2017 after the Israel Antiquities Authority declared it unsafe. The project cost US$4 million and was funded by the World Monuments Fund and King Abdullah II of Jordan.
The interior of the Edicule is divided into two chapels. The first is the Chapel of the Angel, which contains a fragment of the stone that sealed the tomb of Christ. The second is the Holy Sepulchre. The Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic, and Armenian Apostolic churches all have rights to the tomb and celebrate Divine Liturgy or Holy Mass there daily.
The entrance to the Edicule faces the Catholicon. Only a few people are allowed inside the tomb at one time, and a Greek Orthodox monk is there to regulate the time spent by each person. We were advised by a Greek Orthodox priest on our pilgrimage to spend only 15 or 20 seconds inside and we weren’t allowed to take photos.
Coptic Chapel
Behind the Edicule is the Coptic Chapel. It’s made of iron latticework and contains the altar used by the Coptic Orthodox. Some of the Coptic priests get upset when people take photos.
Chapel of St. Joseph of Arimathea
On the west side of the Rotunda, opposite the Coptic Chapel, is the Syriac Orthodox Chapel of St. Joseph of Arimathea and St. Nicodemus. It’s used by the Syriac Orthodox to celebrate Liturgy on Sundays and feast days. The chapel sits within the 4th century church walls.
At the far side of the chapel is the entrance to a 1st century Jewish tomb. Many people believe Joseph of Arimathea and St. Nicodemus were buried there. The presence of the tomb proves the Holy Sepulchre sat outside the city walls of Jerusalem at the time of the crucifixion.
Place of the Three Marys
On the south side of the Rotunda is the Place of the Three Marys, also known as the Place of the Holy Women. A stone canopy above a circular marble slab marks the location the Virgin Mary, Mary Magdalene, and Mary of Clopas watched the crucifixion, according to the Gospel of John. A large mosaic on the wall commemorates the event. Candles burning with the flame from the Holy Light are kept there. Pilgrims often light their own candles and quickly blow them out to take home.
The Place of the Three Marys belongs to the Armenians. The stairs lead to the Armenian monastery, which can be seen above the Stone of Unction.
Chapel of Mary Magdalene
On the north side of the Rotunda is the Chapel of Mary Magdalene. It marks the spot where Christ revealed himself to Mary Magdalene after the Resurrection. It belongs to the Franciscans.
Chapel of the Apparition
The doors at the rear of the Chapel of Mary Magdalene lead to the Chapel of the Apparition, which also belongs to the Franciscans. It’s believed to be the location where Jesus appeared to the Virgin Mary after the Resurrection. The chapel contains a fragment of the Pillar of Flagellation. Another fragment is located at the Church of St. George at the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople in Istanbul, Turkey, and a third in Rome.
Catholicon of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The Catholicon of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre sits on the east side of the Rotunda, opposite the entrance to the Edicule. It was once the choir of a Crusader church built in 1130. The official name is the Church of Resurrection and it now belongs to the Greek Orthodox. Paintings and icons line both sides.
Royal Arch
The entrance to the Catholicon is called the Royal Arch. The exterior belongs to the Franciscans and functions as their choir.
Thrones
There are two thrones in the Catholicon. The throne on the south belongs to the Greek Orthodox Patriarch of Jerusalem while the throne on the north is for an archbishop or bishop. They sit on either side of the iconostasis, which features icons covered in gold.
Altar
The Catholicon houses the main altar of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It sits on the east side behind the iconostasis and under the apse. The walls around the apse are covered with paintings and antique icons.
Dome
The dome of the Catholicon is 29 meters (95 feet) high and 19.8 meters (65 feet) in diameter. It’s decorated with Christ Pantocrator, several saints, and the Four Evangelists. The dome sits directly above the omphalos, which represents the center of the world for Orthodox Christians.
Greek Orthodox Liturgy at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
On November 13, 2022, I was invited to sit in the altar during the Greek Orthodox Divine Liturgy. Hearing the sounds and chants coming from different Christian denominations in other parts of the church was quite humbling. It was a unique and memorable experience.
Ambulatory of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
The ambulatory of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre runs in a semi-circle on the east side of the building along the vault of the Catholicon. It’s lined with several chapels.
Chapel of the Derision
From south to north, the first chapel after the exit to Golgotha is the Chapel of the Derision, also known as the Chapel of the Crown of Thorns. It belongs to the Greek Orthodox and commemorates the mocking of Christ. When Christ was in the Praetorium, Roman soldiers dressed him in a red robe and placed a crown of thorns on his head. The story is depicted in a three-paneled painting on the wall.
In the vault under the altar of the chapel is a granite pillar believed to be the one Christ sat on when the crown of thorns was placed on his head. It was originally located at the Praetorium. To the right of the altar is a container filled with the hardest thorns found in Palestine.
Chapel of St. Helena
Next, a vaulted corridor down 29 steps leads to the Chapel of St. Helena. On the way down the stairs look closely at the stones on the wall, where crosses carved by Crusaders and pilgrims are clearly visible.
The Chapel of St. Helena was built in the 12th century. According to our guide, it marks the location of St. Helen’s tent as she searched for the True Cross. The chapel once belonged to the Ethiopians but they had to sell it to the Armenians because of financial difficulties.
The altar on the right is dedicated to St. Gregory the Illuminator while the altar on the left is dedicated to the Penitent Thief, or St. Dismas. An iron gate on the left side leads to the Chapel of St. Vartan and the Armenian Martyrs, and is opened only with permission of the Armenians. It contains an archaeological site displaying walls from the 2nd century Hadrian’s Temple and a 4th century support for Constantine’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre. There’s also a First Temple period rock quarry and cistern.
The mosaic floor in the chapel was made in the 20th century by Israeli artist Hava Yofe. It depicts churches in historical Armenia. Above is a beautifully decorated dome and there are a few paintings along the walls.
Chapel of the Finding of the Cross
From the southern side of the Chapel of St. Helena, another 22 steps lead down to a cave containing the Chapel of the Finding of the Cross, which belongs to the Franciscans.
According to tradition, this is where St. Helen found the True Cross and the crosses of the thieves crucified with Jesus. The crosses were found on the south side and the nails on the north side. Glass walls on the south side protect 12th century frescoes.
On the south side of the cave is a plaque on the floor indicating the spot of the discovery of the cross. It was placed there by the Greek Orthodox in 1810. On the north side of the cave is a small altar with a statue of St. Helen with the cross.
Chapel of the Division of the Robes
Back up the stairs to the ambulatory is the Chapel of the Division of the Robes, also known as the Chapel of the Division of the Raiment. It belongs to the Armenians and commemorates the Roman soldiers dividing Christ’s clothes among them.
Chapel of St. Longinus
The next chapel is the Chapel of St. Longinus. He was the Roman Centurion who pierced Christ with a lance and then accepted him as the Son of God. The chapel belongs to the Greek Orthodox. The tip of the lance is kept at the Etchmiadzin Cathedral in Armenia.
Prison of Christ
Finally, on the north side of the ambulatory of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is the Prison of Christ. It’s a small three-room chapel belonging to the Greek Orthodox. It’s believed Christ and the two thieves were temporarily kept there before being led to the cross. Another tradition says it was the spot the Virgin Mary fainted upon seeing her only son on the cross.
