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The biggest attraction in Bodrum is Bodrum Castle. This huge walled structure sits at the entrance to the harbor in the center of the city.
Introduction to Bodrum Castle
The castle was built as the Castle of Saint Peter starting in 1404 by the Order of the Knights of Saint John. It was the second most important Crusader castle, fortified using bricks from the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus. The castle was handed over to the Ottomans in 1523 as terms of the Knights’ surrender in Rhodes. It later served as a prison in 1895 and an Italian garrison from the end of World War I until 1921.
Nowadays, different sections of the castle hold the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology (Bodrum Sualtı Arkeoloji Müzesi) which opened to the public in 1964. This museum highlights finds from shipwrecks in the Aegean Sea from the 14th century BC through the 16th century. There are several amphorae, pieces of jewelry, and cutaways of replica ships. For several different virtual tours of the castle, click here.
Towers of Bodrum Castle
There are five main towers that make up the castle and each has its own unique features. Each langue of the Order of the Knights of Saint John was responsible for the construction, maintenance, and defense of their own tower. The towers were built in the different styles of their langues. The German, Spanish, French, and Italian Towers surround the 2nd Courtyard. The English Tower is in the 3rd Courtyard at the southeast corner of the castle.
In addition to the towers, Bodrum Castle contains over 250 coats of arms placed by the Knights of Saint John throughout their time there.
Visiting Bodrum Castle
Admission to the castle and the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology is 450₺ (as of November 2023). It’s open daily and audioguides are available.
Exterior of Bodrum Castle
First, before entering Bodrum Castle, you’ll notice the high walls as well as a small theatre. There’s also a bust of Herodotus, who was an ancient Greek historian born in Halicarnassus in 484 BC. He’s referred to as the “Father of History” for being the first historian to systematically arrange his materials.
Entrance Ramp at Bodrum Castle
Once inside, you can follow a well-marked path that will allow you to visit the castle in its entirety. Along the way, you’ll notice etchings of prayers and the coat of arms of the Knights Hospitaller above doorways and passages as well as on the walls. The most important and interesting ones are labeled with information.
The first one I noticed was made between 1503 and 1512. It contains three coats of arms placed side by side on a rectangular marble slab. The one on the left belongs to the Order of the Knights of Saint John. In the center is the coat of arms of German knight Heinrich Schlegelholt, the architect of the castle, with a Maltese cross above it. To the right is the coat of arms of Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller Emery d’Amboise (1434-1512).
Further along is another coat of arms of Heinrich Schlegelholt sitting above a tunnel to another ramp. The ramp on the other side contains a few fragments including an etching of Saint Nicholas.
At the end of this ramp is an exhibition of cannons as well as some great views of boats in the harbor. You’ll also notice more coats of arms placed into the castle walls.
Gateway Tower
Another ramp connects the entrance ramp to the Gateway Tower, which is the official entrance to Bodrum Castle. Above the entrance to the tower is the tughra of an Ottoman sultan.
Inside the tower above another doorway is another coat of arms. It was made in 1454 or 1455 and contains three coats of arms placed side by side on a rectangular marble slab. The one on the left belongs to Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller Jacques de Milly (d. 1461). In the middle is the coat of arms of the Order of the Knights of Saint John. On the right is the coat of arms of castle commander Giacomo Geltru.
Ramp
Behind the tower is another ramp leading up into the castle. Yet another interesting coat of arms sits on the left wall. It was made in 1472 and features two coats of arms placed one atop the other. They’re each flanked by a figure on either side.
The one on top belongs to Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller Giambattista Orsini (d. 1503) united with the coat of arms of the Order of the Knights of Saint John, with the Virgin Mary to the left and Saint Peter to the right. The Virgin Mary is holding a haloed lamb and is touching the coat of arms while sitting in a throne. Saint Peter is holding a key in his left hand and touches the coat of arms with his right hand. The one on the bottom belongs to castle commander Francesco Boxolles united with the coat of arms of an unidentified knight. To the left is Saint Catherine and to the right is Mary Magdalene holding a bell.
Doorway with Coats of Arms
Further up the ramp is another doorway with one of the best preserved coats of arms at Bodrum Castle. It was made between 1508 and 1509 and features three coats of arms side by side on a rectangular marble slab.
The one on the left belongs to castle commander Jacques Aylmer de La Chevalerie and has a cross above it. The one in the middle is the largest and represents the Order of the Knights of Saint John and Grand Master Emery d’Amboise. To the right is another coat of arms of Jacques Aylmer de La Chevalerie with a tree figure and beam of light on top. An inscription above the coats of arms reads “Lord protect us in our sleep, save us when we wake, without your protection nobody can protect us”.
Southern Terrace of Bodrum Castle
The doorway opens to the southern terrace of Bodrum Castle. It contains the entrance to the 1st Courtyard, an exhibition, and – you guessed it – more well-preserved coats of arms.
Coats of Arms
First, beyond the doorway are two more slabs with coats of arms. The first contains three coats of arms side by side on a rectangular marble slab. To the left is the coat of arms of the Order of the Knights of Saint John. The one in the middle belongs to Jacques Aylmer de La Chevalerie and features a fleur-de-lis. To the right is the coat of arms of Emery d’Amboise.
The other was made between 1521 and 1523 and contains two coats of arms placed side by side on a rectangular marble slab. To the left is the coat of arms of an unidentified knight. To the right is the coat of arms of Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller Philippe Villiers de L’Isle-Adam (1464-1534).
On the south wall are coats of arms that were carved in 1496 and placed side by side on a rectangular marble slab. The ones to the left and right belong to Nicola da Incisa. The one in the middle belongs to Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller Pierre d’Aubusson (1423-1503) united with that of the Order of the Knights of Saint John.
Amphora Depot Exhibition
Hidden down a stairway to a small storeroom is the Amphora Depot Exhibition. It contains amphorae found in the Bozburun shipwreck, which was excavated between 1995 and 1998 by the Institute of Nautical Archaeology under Fred Hocker. The storeroom itself was used to store amphorae for many years and was closed to the public until it was repurposed for this exhibition.
The ship carried at least 974 amphorae, with 928 carrying wine. The others most likely carried provisions for the crew. The jugs date back to the Byzantine era. 35% of the ship survived and was recovered for inclusion in another room of the castle.
Commander’s Tower
The Commander’s Tower connects the Southern Terrace with the 1st Courtyard. Above the gate is a collection of three coats of arms made between 1470 and 1472. They’re placed in a “T” shape on a rectangular marble slab.
The one of the top left represents the Order of the Knights of Saint John. The one on the top right belongs to Giambattista Orsini. On the bottom is the coat of arms of Francesco Boxolles.
The Commander’s Tower, which sits above the gate, was rebuilt in 1999 after being destroyed during World War I. It was closed to the public during my later visits to the castle. On my first visit, it displayed the personal effects of İbrahim Nezihi, the last Ottoman commander who lived in the tower.
1st Courtyard of Bodrum Castle
Once inside the 1st Courtyard, there’s an exhibition of a few amphorae as well as several different types of cylindrical altars. The altars date back to the Hellenistic period. Behind the altars is a small café selling drinks and snacks to visitors.
Chapel/Mosque
Immediately to the right is a small chapel that was later converted to a mosque. The chapel was originally built in 1406 and rebuilt by Spanish knights between 1519 and 1520 in the Gothic style. Building materials recycled from ancient Hellenistic buildings, including the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, were used in its construction. The chapel consists of a vaulted nave and apse.
The Ottomans converted it to a mosque in 1523 after the knights surrendered Bodrum Castle. The mosque was known as the Süleymaniye Mosque (Süleymaniye Camii). On May 26, 1915, the minaret was destroyed by French naval shelling during World War I. It was rebuilt in 1997.
On the cornerstone of the north wall is an inscription in Arabic belonging to a small mosque destroyed by the Venetians in 1472. There are also inscriptions belonging to Spanish knights made in 1519 and 1520.
Inside the chapel is a glass floor looking down on ancient Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine foundations. They date back to the 4th century BC. The foundations were discovered in 1994 and excavated again in 2019. There were also three tombs containing several burials typical of the Byzantine style.
Serçe Harbor Glass Wreck Exhibition
Walking up towards the 2nd Courtyard are two museum galleries. The lower gallery to the left side is the Serçe Harbor Glass Wreck Exhibition (Serçe Limanı Cam Batığı Sergisi). It contains the remains of a Byzantine ship that sunk in 1026. Admission costs an extra is 130₺ (as of November 2023) in addition to the castle entrance.
The ship sunk to a depth of 33 meters due to an anchor failure. Mehmet Aşkın, a sponge diver from Bodrum, discovered the ship. It was excavated by the Institute of Nautical Archaeology between 1977 and 1979. Several important artifacts, including amphorae, glass items, and weapons were recovered.
Several items found in the shipwreck are on display in a two-level exhibition gallery. The amphorae are on the upper level while the lower level contains glazed bowls, glass, and weapons.
Yassıada Shipwrecks Hall
A few steps further up the path is another exhibition housed in the former kitchen of Bodrum Castle. Above the entrance is a rectangular marble panel with three coats of arms placed side by side.
They were made between 1503 and 1512. To the left is the coat of arms of Emery d’Amboise. The one in the middle belongs to the Order of the Knights of Saint John. To the right is the coat of arms of Heinrich Schlegelholt.
Inside are artifacts excavated from three shipwrecks off the island of Yassıada. One is a Late Roman period shipwreck found in waters between 36 and 42 meters deep. It dates to around 400 and was excavated between 1967 and 1969 and again in 1974 by the Institute of Nautical Archaeology under American archaeologist George Bass (1932-2021). It was 19 meters long and made mostly of cypress wood. Other shipwrecks are a 7th century Byzantine wreck and an Ottoman wreck.
Gravestone Exhibition
To the right of the former kitchen is an exhibition of gravestones dating back to the Hellenistic period. These grave stelae were produced in various shapes and sizes with inscriptions about the lives and professions of the deceased. Some contained decorative elements including facial profiles.
Byzantine Mosaic
Finally, just before the entrance to the 2nd Courtyard of Bodrum Castle, you’ll find a small Byzantine mosaic dating back to the 5th century.
2nd Courtyard of Bodrum Castle
The path up from the 1st Courtyard opens up to the 2nd Courtyard, which features an open area with broken statues and fragments of columns.
German Tower
The German Tower, one of the five main towers of Bodrum Castle, sits on the north side of the 2nd Courtyard. It was built between 1437 and 1440 on what was the main wall of the castle at the time. It has a semicircular plan with a domed roof and was also known as the Strong Tower. The outer wall of the castle was built in front of the tower between 1480 and 1522.
Inside the German Tower is an exhibition featuring items recovered from the Bozukkale shipwreck. The ship dates back to the Archaic period, near the end of the 7th century BC or the beginning of the 6th century BC. It was discovered in 2013 and excavated in 2017 by Dokuz Eylül University (Dokuz Eylül Üniversitesi) of Izmir. 13 whole and broken sculptures, most likely originating from Cyprus, were found at the site along with amphorae from Cyprus, Chios, Phoenicia, and Miletus.
Spanish Tower
A few steps away is the circular Spanish Tower, which is also known as the Serpentine Tower for the carving of a snake at the lower entrance. The basement of the Spanish Tower dates back to the Byzantine period and was used by the knights as a hospital.
Above the upper entrance are three coats of arms placed side by side. The one on the left belongs to Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller Philibert de Naillac (d. 1421). The one in the middle represents the Order of the Knights of Saint John. To the right is the coat of arms of Heinrich Schlegelholt.
Inside the upper level of the Spanish Tower is an exhibition featuring items recovered from the Tektaş Burnu shipwreck. It dates back to the 5th century BC during the Classical Greek period.
From the Spanish Tower, it’s possible to get a good look at the inner moat separating the German and Spanish Towers from the 2nd Courtyard as well as the outer walls and the town of Bodrum in the distance.
Prayer Niche
Finally, outside the entrance to the Italian and French Towers, which are covered in another entry, is a small prayer niche added by the Ottomans.
Dungeon at Bodrum Castle
During my first visit to Bodrum Castle, it was possible to walk down from the 2nd Courtyard to the dungeon on the outer walls. Unfortunately, it was closed to the public on my most recent visit in November 2023.
The dungeon was both the creepiest and cheesiest part of the castle at the same time. Visitors descended down a dark stairwell to be greeted by a ridiculous mannequin.
Latrines at Bodrum Castle
Another attraction closed during my most recent visit includes the latrines, which were situated on a walkway near the 2nd Courtyard.
Italian and French Towers
The Italian and French Towers occupy a structure at the highest point and the center of Bodrum Castle. You can access them from the 2nd and 3rd Courtyards.
Italian Tower
The Italian Tower was completed in 1436 by Italian architect and castle commander Angelo Mascettola. It has two levels and several coats of arms placed on the walls. The Italian Tower was also known as the Relief Tower.
On the north façade of the tower is a relief of Saint George slaying the dragon. It sits above three small coats of arms placed side by side. The coats of arms on the left and right belong to Angelo Mascettola, and the one in the center represents the Order of the Knights of Saint John.
On the east façade of the tower are two coats of arms belonging to Angelo Mascettola. They were made between 1431 and 1434. Both were carved on a fragment of an ancient column, and one has “Italia” inscribed above the coat of arms.
French Tower
The French Tower is thought to be the oldest tower at Bodrum Castle, dating back to the early 15th century. It sits just opposite the Italian Tower to the east and was also known as the Embroidery Tower.
On the west façade of the French Tower are three coats of arms placed side by side. They were made between 1431 and 1434. The one on the left belongs to Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller Anton Flavian de Ripa (d. 1437). The one in the middle represents the Order of the Knights of Saint John. To the right is the coat of arms of Angelo Mascettola.
Lower Level of the Italian and French Towers
The lower level of the Italian and French Towers are accessible via a doorway in the 2nd Courtyard. Above the doorway are three coats of arms placed in a “T” shape.
On the top left is the coat of arms of the Order of the Knights of Saint John merged with that of Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller Fabrizio del Carretto (1455-1521). The one on the top right represents the Order of the Knights of Saint John. On the bottom is the coat of arms of Cornelius Hambroeck merged with that of Wallaim Berges, both castle commanders. Above the coats of arms is an eagle wearing a crown.
Once inside the doorway there’s a vaulted ceiling. The door to the right leads to the lower level of the Italian Tower, while the door to the left leads to the lower level of the French Tower.
Exhibitions at the Italian and French Towers
There are a handful of exhibitions housed in the rooms of the Italian and French Towers. Three are in the lower level of the towers, one is outside, and one is at the upper level.
Early Bronze Age Necropolis Exhibition
On the lower level of the Italian Tower is the Early Bronze Age Necropolis Exhibition (Erken Tunç Çağı Nekropolleri Sergisi). It displays finds from an Early Bronze Age necropolis in the area, including ceramics, jewelry, and human remains.
Müsgebi Necropolis Exhibition
Across the hall in the lower level of the French Tower is the Müsgebi Necropolis Exhibition (Müsgebi Nekropolü Sergisi). It includes finds from the Müsgebi Necropolis, which contains Mycenaean period tombs. The tombs contained family burials spanning several generations. The exhibition is displayed in two rooms and features ceramics, weapons, and more.
Carian Princess Hall
Back through the corridor and outside the other doorway is an opening that leads to another room that now functions as the Carian Princess Hall.
First, above the entrance are three coats of arms placed side by side on a rectangular marble slab. They were made between 1494 and 1501. The one on the left belongs to Pierre d’Aubusson. In the middle is the coat of arms of the Order of the Knights of Saint John. The one of the right belongs to Francesco Boxolles.
Inside the room are finds from a tomb of a Carian princess. The tomb was unearthed during the construction of a new building in Bodrum. It dates back to the middle of the 4th century BC and ancient Halicarnassus. The high-quality items found with the skeleton indicated a royal burial. They include precious jewelry including a gold leaf crown.
The sarcophagus of the Carian princess is included in the exhibit. It still holds her skeleton. There’s also a recreation of how she may have looked based on her bone structure.
Pedasa Antique City Exhibition
A stairway leads up to a terrace between the upper levels of the Italian and French Towers. In the upper level of the French Tower is the Pedasa Antique City Exhibition (Pedasa Antik Kenti Sergisi). It includes findings from the ancient city of Pedasa, which is near modern Bodrum.
The exhibition includes several impressive finds such as jewelry, statues, tools, weapons, and more.
One of the most interesting pieces is a pair of eyes dating back to the 4th or 5th century BC. They were found in the Sanctuary of Athena and probably left as an offering. The eyelids are made of bronze while the scleras are made of marbelite. Blue glass was used for the pupils and green glass for the irises.
Views of Bodrum
Finally, back down the stairway there are great views of Bodrum from the platform. It’s a lovely scene with sailboats and it may even be possible to see a cruise ship.
3rd Courtyard of Bodrum Castle
The 3rd Courtyard of Bodrum Castle contains more exhibitions and views of Bodrum as well as another tower. It’s accessed via the 2nd Courtyard or the Italian and French Towers.
Coat of Arms
A doorway from the 2nd Courtyard leads directly to a building containing an exhibition (see below). On the building is a coat of arms on a rectangular marble slab. It was made in 1462 and depicts a haloed Saint Catherine holding the flag of the Order of the Knights of Saint John in her right hand. In her left hand is a nave. At the bottom left corner is the coat of arms of Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller Piero Raimondo Zacosta (1404-1467). At the bottom right corner is the coat of arms of castle commander Jean Cotet.
Late Bronze Age Shipwrecks Exhibition
The building houses the Late Bronze Age Shipwrecks Exhibition (Geç Tunç Çağı Batıkları Salonu). It features finds from two important shipwrecks, the Gelidonya shipwreck and the Uluburun shipwreck. The Gelidonya shipwreck occurred around 1200 BC at Cape Gelidonya at the western entrance to the bay of Antalya. It was the first ancient shipwreck to be excavated in its entirety on the sea floor. The Gelidonya shipwreck was excavated in 1960 by George Bass for the University of Pennsylvania. The ship is believed to have originated in the Near East.
The Uluburun shipwreck was discovered in 1982 by local sponge diver Mehmet Cakır at a depth of 44 to 61 meters. It was excavated between 1984 and 1994 by the Institute of Nautical Archaeology and Texas A&M University under George Bass and Cemal Pulak. Because divers were limited by the depth to dives of a maximum of 25 minutes, the excavation required more than 22,000 dives to complete. The Uluburun shipwreck is the oldest shipwreck ever to have been excavated, dating back to the end of the 14th century BC.
English Tower
The English Tower is one of the five main towers of Bodrum Castle. It sits at the southeast corner of the castle. It was built between 1399 and 1413 and stands three stories high. One door opens to the north into the castle and the other opens to the western ramparts. The English Tower is one of the most important and well-preserved medieval structures built by the English outside of England.
The western façade of the English Tower contains a carving of a lion dating to antiquity. This lion gives the tower its other name, the Lion Tower. Above the lion is the coat of arms of Henry IV.
Above the entrance on the northern façade is a larger coat of arms belonging to Henry IV with a roaring lion standing above. The coats of arms of nobles who supported the construction of the tower run to the left and right for nearly the entire width of the building.
Interior of the English Tower
Inside the English Tower is an exhibition on the history of the Order of the Knights of Saint John. It includes a suit of armor as well as the coats of arms of the Grand Masters of the Knights Hostpitaller who served at Bodrum Castle.
Along the walls are graffiti left by knights as well as a few coats of arms. One group in particular was made between 1437 and 1454 and features two coats of arms placed side by side on a marble slab. The one on the left belongs to an unidentified knight while the one on the right belongs to Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller Jean de Lastic (d. 1454).
On my first visit to Bodrum Castle, the English Tower was decorated much differently. It contained several flags and a long table as well as weapons and a model ship.
Eastern Rampart of Bodrum Castle
Walking north from the English Tower is the eastern rampart of Bodrum Castle. It runs all the way north to where the walls turn west towards the German Tower and the 2nd Courtyard.
Along the walls, there are great views of Bodrum and the Aegean. It’s possible to see several sailboats in the harbor and even a cruise ship. To the south you can see Karaada.
Bodrum Castle Exit
Once you’ve visited all the towers and exhibitions at Bodrum Castle, you walk back down towards the entrance to find the exit ramp. On the way to the castle exit are coats of arms placed into a wall. It was made between 1470 and 1472 and placed in a “T” shape. To the top left is the coat of arms of the Order of the Knights of Saint John. The one on the top right belongs to Giambattista Orsini. The one on the bottom belongs to Francesco Boxolles.
After passing through a doorway leading to a stairway down to ground level, if you turn around and look above the doorway you’ll see an impressive coat of arms. It was made between 1495 and 1499. The large coat of arms in the center belongs to Pierre d’Aubusson, with a cardinal’s cross placed above it. To the left is the coat of arms of the Order of the Garter, which is the third most prestigious order of knighthood in the British honor system. To the right is the coat of arms of castle commander Thomas Docwra (c. 1458-1527).
Above a window to the right of the doorway is another unmarked coat of arms.
Courtyard at the Exit
Once at ground level, you’ll find yourself in a small courtyard surrounded by a couple towers and the exit to the Castle of Saint Peter to the west.
All around the walls, it’s possible to spot several more coats of arms. Unfortunately, they weren’t labeled at the time of my visit.
