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Mustafapaşa is located in the Cappadocia region of Turkey. This town with Greek origins has transformed itself into a touristic destination.
History of Mustafapaşa
Mustafapaşa was originally known by its Greek name, Sinasos (Σινασός). Its residents were predominantly Greeks and Karamanlides (Turkish-speaking Greek Orthodox Christians). The earliest reference to the town can be traced back to Ottoman records in 1476.
Sinasos thrived and became prosperous during the 19th century. Many residents were merchants who became rich shipping goods between Constantinople (now Istanbul), Russia, and Europe. Most schoolteachers were from Athens. Patriarch Gregory V (1746-1821) founded a seminary there a few weeks before his hanging in 1821. By the early 20th century, the population was roughly 3,000 Greeks and 500 Turks.
In 1924, the population exchange between Greece and Turkey was enforced on Sinasos. The original Greek inhabitants moved to Nea Sinasos on the island of Evia (Euboia). They were replaced by Turks from Kastoria and Macedonian Muslims. Although the Turkish government officially changed the name of the town to Mustafapaşa, many modern residents still refer to it as Sinasos.
Where to Stay in Mustafapaşa
I’ve only stayed at one hotel within the town. I’ve also stayed about 10 minutes away in a small village.
Sinasos Evleri
Sinasos Evleri is a boutique hotel situated in Beyaz Konak, a restored stone mansion built in the early 19th century. It’s one of the most beautiful buildings in the Lulas Quarter, which was the oldest and most distinguished neighborhood of Sinasos.
The six rooms of the hotel are named after their former functions: the Cellar Room was a cellar where grapes were pressed, wines and pickles were produced, and cheeses were stored; the Hanging Room has a gazebo that was used in summer; the Master Room hosted guests; and the Tandır Room was a typical winter kitchen with a tandoor oven. There are also two large rooms on the second floor with an open living space used in summer.
As far as decorations, the façade and interior walls contain oyster, cypress, flower, and sun motifs. They symbolize a healthy and long life. The carpets are semi-antique pieces from Cappadocia.
I stayed in the Master Room, which is a junior suite measuring 40 square meters. In addition to the bedroom, there’s a sitting area with a fireplace and a sofa with a pull-out bed. The room is extremely comfortable and quiet at night, and staff is wonderful. The rate includes a delicious traditional Turkish breakfast at Gorgoli, a restaurant across the street.
Gamirasu Cave Hotel
On my very first visit to Cappacodia, I spent the night at Gamirasu Cave Hotel. It’s about 10 minutes south of Mustafapaşa in the village of Ayvalı. It’s not far out of the way at all and is actually centrally located in relation to other lesser-known attractions worth visiting. It was a great experience overall.
Gamirasu Cave Hotel has several rooms situated inside a rock-cut Byzantine period monastery. My room was a standard room. It was very comfortable and had all the modern amenities. The bathroom was a little outdated at the time of my stay but that wasn’t a problem at all.
The hotel has a wonderful staff that go out of their way to make you feel at home. There’s a restaurant with a great buffet breakfast included in the morning. Lunch and dinner service is a la carte.
The property has a small garden and it’s possible to see cave houses across the street. There’s a decent WiFi connection throughout the hotel, bike rental, and 24-hour reception and room service. If you need to get to Ürgüp, there’s a shuttle running from 9am to 10pm.
Where to Eat in Mustafapaşa
There are some decent restaurants in town.
Old Greek House Restaurant
The Old Greek House Restaurant, which is in a historic mansion you’ll read about below, serves excellent Turkish cuisine at reasonable prices. I’ve visited three times.
To start, I’ve shared several meze dishes with groups I was leading through Turkey. The haydari (mint yogurt) and yaprak sarma (stuffed grape leaves) are both delicious as is the börek. The cheese and olive plate is also a good way to start your meal.
As a main course, I’ve had the mantı and güveç. Both are excellent, and I especially enjoyed the güveç coming out sizzling on a clay dish. All the food is prepared by the owner’s wife.
Gorgoli
Gorgoli is a restaurant across the street from Sinasos Evleri. While we had our complimentary Turkish breakfast there in the morning, we also had one very light dinner. I had a sandwich and a bowl of fruit.
SS Constantine and Helen Church
The SS Constantine and Helen Church (Konstantin ve Helena Kilisesi) once served the Greek Orthodox community of Sinasos. It’s located in the center of Mustafapaşa.
The church was built in 1729 replacing an older smaller church that needed to be renovated. At that time, the Ottomans only allowed Christians 80 days to build their churches, and the entrances needed to be below street level. The community mobilized, demolished the old church, and built the new one in less than 80 days.
The church was repaired in 1850 by the local community. It was used not only for religious services, but also for school events, welcome ceremonies, and prayers for the health of the Sultan and success of the Ottoman military.
The SS Constantine and Helen Church functions today as a historical museum. It’s also used at least once annually for church services led by the Ecumenical Patriarch of Constantinople. Tickets are 50₺ (as of August 2025) and include admission to the St. Nicholas Monastery.
Façade of the SS Constantine and Helen Church
The upper part of the façade above the entrance has three windows. The central window is decorated with reliefs of two dragons facing each other. Their heads are pointed towards the sky. To the left is a six-winged Seraph and to the right is the double-headed eagle. Other bricks contain inscriptions in Greek.
Under the façade is a space with a low ceiling. It functions as a narthex and contains the entrance to the church. The narthex is supported by four columns and three arches.
The columns and arches are decorated with paint that has faded over the years. To the left of the main door is another smaller door. Reliefs of two angels and a cross sit above. They’re all painted blue.
Entrance Portal of the SS Constantine and Helen Church
The entrance portal is one of the most stunning in Cappadocia. It features yellow and dark blue plant and grape motifs around it.
An inscription in Greek above the door translates to:
I am a church of the most august royal couple Constantine and Helen. In the times of Sultan Ahmed III was entirely built. In the times of Abdülmecid I was adorned as befits me. And in the era when the renowned Paisios was bishop through efforts and expenses by the public of Sinasos. Erected from its foundations in 1829. Repaired in 1850.
Nave of the SS Constantine and Helen Church
The SS Constantine and Helen Church consists of a central nave with two aisles. Sadly, it’s not in the best condition, but it’s easy to see it was once brilliantly decorated.
Some of the columns contain remnants of blue and red paint. One of them has a sketch of an angel, but I’m not sure if it was traced over an original drawing.
In the apse where the altar once stood is an icon of the Holy Trinity. It hangs from a nail attached to the rear wall.
Near the entrance to the church is an icon of SS Constantine and Helen as well as a small area displaying artifacts and a few tombstones. There’s also a space for visitors to light candles and a bit of information about the history of the church.
It’s possible to climb the stairs up to the loft above the entrance. From there, you can get a great view of the nave and the aisles.
Finally, you might notice some niches carved into the side of church. They appear to have been used to store jugs of some sort.
Caves
Outside to the left of the church is what looks to be cave dwellings. There’s faded paint on part of it. The cave may have been used by the church somehow.
Houses in Mustafapaşa
One of the best things about walking around Mustafapaşa are all the historic 19th century mansions built by the former Greek inhabitants. There are about 30 prominent mansions still standing in town. Some have been converted into public buildings, museums, or hotels. Others are privately owned.
Old Greek House
The Old Greek House is a mansion in Mustafapaşa that doubles as one of the most well-known restaurants in Cappadocia. It’s a two-story mansion made of stone, with wood and iron materials used in some parts. It has an arched entrance door made of double-winged wood.
The Old Greek House was built in 1879 by a Greek artist, Yorha Vasil. In 1924, during the population exchange between Turkey and Greece, it was given to a Turkish family from Thessaloniki.
The Öztürk family, who came to Mustafapaşa as teachers, purchased it in 1938. They named it the Temel Öztürk Mansion and lived there until 1992. Since then, the descendants of the Öztürks have operated a restaurant and hotel out of the mansion. It has 15 rooms and 32 beds along with 2 terraces.
The Old Greek House also featured on the Turkish series Asmalı Konak from March 2002 to June 2003. This boosted its fame and attracted more visitors.
Balcony
The balcony above the entrance is supported by eight columns. Rosette, star, and clover motifs decorate the space between the columns. The ceiling of the balcony is colorfully painted. On my first visit in October 2010, the gutter heads were in the shape of a dragon.
Ground Floor
The ground floor of the mansion functions as the restaurant. It features arches painted with different bands of colors, a fireplace, and a wooden ceiling.
First Floor
The rooms on the first floor of the mansion are decorated in a late 19th to early 20th century style. The central hall is the most brilliant, containing a wall painting and a brightly colored ceiling.
The wall painting, by Georgios Iordanidis, is dated 1887. It features a male and female figure sitting on a swing hanging from a tree.
In the room to the left of the hall is another wall painting above the window dated 1879. It depicts two human figures with a medallion between them. Inside the medallion is the phrase “Everything is empty, it’s possible to be happy, fate offers people things in common.” On the opposite wall is a niche with a painting of two soldiers riding horses and carrying a flag.
The room to the right of the hall has bare walls with seating around the perimeter of the room. There’s a central niche flanked by two niches covered with wooden doors. The niche is filled with antique glass items.
Seraphim Mansion
Next to the Old Greek House is the gate to the Seraphim Mansion. It was built in 1853 by Nikolaki Rizos. He was the grandfather of Seraphim Rizos (1882-1969), who photographed the town after the population exchange decision and published the photos in a book. The mansion now serves as a hotel.
The gate contains yellow lion and star reliefs on either side of the door. An inscription in Greek sits above the arch on a marble slab. It roughly translates to:
Man! If you are a friend, leave in happiness. If you are an enemy who threatens, keep away from this gate. 1853.
Cave House
My guide on my first trip, Fatih, pointed out a cave dwelling with black soot stains above a chimney carved between two windows. He told me the story of an old Greek lady who used to live there. A teenager at the time of the population exchange, she was able to hide her true identity and avoided deportation to Greece. She died around 2007 at almost 100 years old.
Hill above Mustafapaşa
A path near the Old Greek House leads up a hill overlooking Mustafapaşa. There are wonderful views of the town and countryside from the top. There are also a few cave dwellings at the bottom of the hill.
Monastery Valley Open-Air Museum
Monastery Valley Open-Air Museum (Manastır Vadisi Açık Hava Müzesi) sits along a road running south of Mustafapaşa. You’ll find three churches, a small monastery, and some fairy chimneys characteristic of Cappadocia.
Church of St. Stephen
At the beginning of the road is the rock-carved Church of St. Stephen (Aziz Stefanos Kilisesi). It was closed and under restoration when we drove by.
St. Nicholas Monastery
Next is St. Nicholas Monastery (Aziz Nikola Manastırı), which is the most impressive site in Monastery Valley. Tickets are 50₺ (as of August 2025) and include admission to the SS Constantine and Helen Church in town.
The complex was built shortly after 1856 but the monastery existed since at least the early 18th century. It was restored in 2012 using original photos taken at the beginning of the 20th century. A stone gate built into the walls serves as the entrance. On the other side, a series of steps lead down a small courtyard.
Church at St. Nicholas Monastery
The church is entered through a narthex fronted by three arches. On the wall of the narthex is a plaque placed there on May 27, 2012, by the descendants of the Greeks of Sinasos. After being deported, the refugees founded Nea Sinasos in Greece.
The rock-cut church is divided into a few different sections. The nave is decorated with icons brought from Greece. You’ll also notice some original frescoes on the walls as well as in the dome.
Other Features of St. Nicholas Monastery
Stairs inside the church lead down into a wine press. You’ll see the niches carved out for the grape juice to flow into a vat. Back upstairs, you can see the original stairs into the wine press, which have collapsed.
Also attached to the church are the monk’s cells. They’re simple rock-cut rooms with niches and windows. There’s also a chapel and small common area.
Above the church, you’ll find a ladder leading up to a pigeon house. At the top are spectacular views of Monastery Valley.
Opposite the church is a small cemetery, which was also renovated as part of the project in 2012. It contains original tombstones written in Greek.
According to the caretaker during our visit, the building in the corner of the courtyard served as a guesthouse. On the ground floor were two rooms used for confession. You can peek inside to see the simple rooms.
Church of St. John the Baptist
The Church of St. John the Baptist (Aziz Yuhannis Prodromos Kilisesi) is the third site along the road. At the top of the stairs from the road is a small courtyard. There was no information posted at the site during my visit.
The door to the right opens to the church. You’ll find the remains of a few frescoes, a candle stand on the left side, and an inscription in Greek. There are some niches carved into the wall on the right side.
The door to the left opens to another room attached to the church. Its purpose is unknown.
Scenic Overlook at Monastery Valley
Near the Church of St. John is a short trail to a scenic overlook of Monastery Valley. You can climb the concrete steps up to the top of a plateau for spectacular views of the Cappadocian landscape. There are also other trails up there.
From the top, you can spot the Church of St. John, the St. Nicholas Monastery, and a fairy chimney with rock-cut homes and dovecotes carved into it.
Church of St. Barbara
At the end of the road is a cul-de-sac where you’ll find the tiny rock-cut Church of St. Barbara (Aziz Barbara Kilisesi). There’s also some nice scenery.
