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Edirne has a very compact historic city center with lots to see. It makes for a great day trip from Istanbul.
Introduction to the Edirne Historic City Center
The historic city center of Edirne is full of historic mosques, markets, and museums. It’s easily walkable and all the highlights can be seen in a day. With extra time, you can reward yourself with some lesser-known attractions outside the historic core.
Selimiye Square
First of all, the space in front of the Selimiye Mosque is Selimiye Square (Selimiye Meydanı). There’s an “Edirne” sign and two monuments, and the mosque acts as a beautiful backdrop. The monument to the left depicts Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan (c. 1490-1588). He designed the Selimiye Mosque and other structures in Edirne as well as several more in Istanbul.
The monument to the right depicts Mehmed the Conqueror on horseback flanked by two Ottoman cannons. He was born in Edirne and went on to conquer Constantinople in 1453.
Yemiş Kapanı Han
In the center of Selimiye Square is an archaeological site containing the foundations of Yemiş Kapanı Han (Yemiş Kapanı Hanı). It was a fruit and vegetable market commissioned by Sultan Selim II and Mimar Sinan on March 17, 1573. Construction didn’t begin until October 19, 1588, under architects Davud Ağa (c. 1540-1599) and Hüseyin Çavuş.
The building had 100 rooms and covered a space measuring 4,000 square meters. It was destroyed during an earthquake on July 30, 1752, and collapsed in 1937. A park was built over the ruins in 1967.
Excavations were carried out between 2014 and 2016, revealing water channels built by Mimar Sinan in 1570 as well as a grave dating to the Roman period.
Edirne Municipality Building
The historic Edirne Municipality Building (Edirne Belediye Binası) sits on the northwest side of the square. It was built between 1898 and 1900 by local engineer Nazif Akanlar, who also developed the plan for the Kaleiçi district.
Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938), the founder of the Turkish Republic, stayed in the building when he visited Edirne from December 21-25, 1930. It also hosted Sultan Mehmed V in 1910; King Ferdinand I of Bulgaria during Bulgarian occupation (1913); and King Alexander of Greece during Greek occupation (1920-1922).
Old Mosque
The Old Mosque (Eski Cami) is the oldest mosque in the city. It sits west of Selimiye Square and is one of the architectural highlights of the historic city center of Edirne.
The Old Mosque was built between 1402 and 1414. It was commissioned by Emir Süleyman (1377-1411), the son of Sultan Bayezid I and one of the claimants to the throne during the Ottoman Interregnum. The mosque was finished by his brother, Sultan Mehmed I.
Minarets of the Old Mosque
Two minarets stand outside the mosque. There was originally just one minaret but a second taller minaret was added by Sultan Murad II in the first half of the 15th century.
Portico of the Old Mosque
The entrance to the mosque is under an arched portico. An inscription sits above the entrance to the portico. There’s an ablutions fountain just outside the entrance to the portico on the left.
The portico features some of the beautiful calligraphy the mosque is known for. The calligraphy to the right of the entrance spells Allah and to the left spells Muhammad.
Prayer Hall of the Old Mosque
The prayer hall is very spacious and features several arches and large columns supporting the domes. The column bases are decorated with calligraphy.
The mosque has nine intricately decorated domes. All of the domes are painted with unique patterns and colors and contain windows to let in natural light.
The mosque is best known for the incredible calligraphy on the walls. Some of it nearly stretches the entire wall from floor to the ceiling.
Click here for a virtual tour. Here are a few more photos of the prayer hall of the Old Mosque:
Bedesten
Across from the Old Mosque sits the Bedesten (Bedesten Çarşısı). Built in 1418 by Sultan Mehmed I, it’s the oldest covered market in Edirne. It served as a source of income for the maintenance of the Old Mosque.
The architect of the Bedesten was Mimar Alaeddin, who used red and white ashlar stone in its construction. There are 2 long corridors inside the building with a total of 36 rooms for merchants. More shops surround the outside of the building.
14 domes cover the Bedesten, arranged in 2 rows of 7 domes. During Ottoman times, the most valuable goods available in the city were sold there. This included jewelry, carpets, and weapons. Other items from all corners of the empire were also available.
Tea Garden
Outside the northwest entrance of the Bedesten is a small tea garden with a pleasant setting. In the tea garden is a fountain with a statue of two wrestlers. Every year since 1360, Edirne has hosted the Kırkpınar oil wrestling tournament. Visitors walking to Edirne Palace can see the grounds where the tournament takes place.
Rüstem Pasha Caravanserai
The Rüstem Pasha Caravanserai (Rüstem Paşa Kervansarayı) is southeast of the Bedesten. It was built in 1561 by Rüstem Pasha (c. 1505-1561), a Grand Vizier under Süleyman the Magnificent. The architect was Mimar Sinan.
The Rüstem Pasha Caravanserai has two floors and consists of two sections – Big Han (Büyük Han) and Little Han (Küçük Han). There are 39 rooms on the first floor and 41 on the second floor. 21 shops line the front of the building.
Today, the Rüstem Pasha Caravanserai serves as a hotel. Of particular interest are the large doors opening to the courtyard. Ornamental chandeliers hang in front of them. A small park separates the Bedesten from the Rüstem Pasha Caravanserai.
Mosque with Three Balconies
The Mosque with Three Balconies (Üç Şerefeli Camii), located on Hükümet Street, is one of the most unique mosques in Turkey. It was commissioned by Sultan Murad II and built between 1438 and 1447. At that time, it was the largest mosque in the Ottoman Empire and was the greatest Ottoman architectural achievement to date. Unfortunately, the name of the architect has been lost to history.
The Mosque with Three Balconies was built as part of a larger complex including a soup kitchen, two madrasas, and a Quranic school. Only the two madrasas exist today. The mosque was damaged by fire in 1732 and by an earthquake in 1748, but was later repaired by Ottoman architect Hacı Ahmed under the orders of Sultan Mustafa III. The next major renovation took place in 1930.
Minarets of the Mosque with Three Balconies
This mosque has four minarets, all with different architectural designs and heights. They sit at the four corners of the building.
The tallest minaret is in the southern corner. It has the three balconies that give the mosque its name. Each of the three balconies is reached by a different staircase. The northern minaret has two balconies while the other two have just one balcony each.
The southern minaret stands 67 meters (220 feet) high and was the tallest minaret in the Ottoman Empire when it was built.
Courtyard of the Mosque with Three Balconies
The courtyard of the mosque has an area half as large as the prayer hall. In the center is an octagonal ablutions fountain (şadırvan). Four channels from the fountain to the corners of the courtyard are used to handle overspill.
Arched porticoes covered by domes surround all four sides of the courtyard. Underneath the domes are beautiful decorations consisting of geometric patterns and calligraphy. Some are original designs repaired in the 18th century while others are later additions.
Prayer Hall of the Mosque with Three Balconies
The spacious prayer hall is not as ornately decorated as other mosques in Edirne. Most of the walls are bare, and some of the calligraphy written on the arches has disappeared.
The most impressive decorations are on the wall surrounding the mihrab. It’s painted in geometric patterns of circles and stars. Furthermore, two blue and turquoise tile panels in the tympana may have been painted by the same tile makers who decorated the Green Mosque in Bursa.
Dome of the Mosque with Three Balconies
The central dome is 24 meters (79 feet) in diameter. When it was built, it was the largest dome in any Ottoman building. The dome rests on a dodecagonal drum with 12 windows and is supported by 6 massive pillars. It’s flanked by two pairs of smaller domes. Click here for a virtual tour of the Mosque with Three Balconies.
Sokullu Mehmed Pasha Hamam
Across the street from the Mosque with Three Balconies is the Sokullu Mehmed Pasha Hamam (Sokullu Mehmed Paşa Hamamı). It’s a Turkish bath built between 1568 and 1569 by Sokullu Mehmed Pasha (1506-1579), a Grand Vizier under Sultans Süleyman the Magnificent, Selim II, and Murad III.
The bath was designed by Mimar Sinan and is one of the largest of its kind in Turkey. It was meant to provide income for the maintenance of the Mosque with the Three Balconies. The façade was partially destroyed during road construction in the 1960s. The bath is still in service today, and there are separate entrances and bathing times for men and women.
Edirne Fortress
Tucked away behind a few buildings near the hamam, you’ll find the last surviving ruins of Edirne Fortress. The fortress was built by the Romans after the foundation of Hadrianopolis.
Edirne Fortress was demolished between 1866 and 1870. The stones were used to build a hospital, school, government buildings, and barracks. The ruins of a 10th century Byzantine church is mixed in with the ruins.
Macedonian Tower
Next to the ruins is the Macedonian Tower (Makedonya Kulesi). It was originally one of the four corner towers of Edirne Fortress. After the fortress was demolished, Ottoman governor Hacı İzzet Pasha (1798-1876) commissioned the construction of a wooden clock tower atop the bastion. A clock produced in France was added in 1886. The wooden tower burned down and the current tower was built out of stone in 1894. It was partially destroyed by an earthquake in 1953 and later with dynamite by local authorities who believed it was an eyesore. Restoration began in 2021 and is expected to be complete in 2025 (as of July 2024), when it will open as a museum.
Saraçlar Street
The heartbeat of the historic city center of Edirne is the pedestrianized Saraçlar Street (Saraçlar Caddesi). It’s across the street from the south end of Hükümet Street and runs north to south. On the north end is a small square with a statue of Atatürk.
Saraçlar Street is where many locals come to unwind, shop, and grab a cup of coffee. It also attracts shoppers coming over the border from Greece and Bulgaria.
There are a few historic buildings along the street, and plenty of trees and benches to sit and relax. A couple of fountains add to the atmosphere, and about halfway down the street is a three-sided mosaic featuring Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938), the founder of the Turkish Republic.
On one of my overnight stays, the street was beautifully lit with several different lights. On other overnight stays, it wasn’t lit up but just as enjoyable.
Ali Pasha Bazaar
Running along the north side of Saraçlar Street is the Ali Pasha Bazaar (Ali Paşa Çarşısı). This long covered market was built between 1560 and 1565 by Semiz Ali Pasha (d. 1565), a Grand Vizier under Süleyman the Magnificent. The architect was Mimar Sinan (1490-1588).
The Ali Pasha Bazaar is 300 meters long and has 6 gates. There are 110 shops inside. It’s packed with souvenirs, spices, and clothing shops. You can also find plenty of Edirne’s famous fruit scented soaps and badem ezmesi (marzipan).
Kaleiçi
Kaleiçi is a neighborhood taking up the southwest quadrant of the historic city center of Edirne. It’s bordered by Saraçlar Street to the east and Talat Pasha Avenue to the north.
Kaleiçi literally translates to Inside the Castle. It was the only settlement in the city when it was conquered by the Ottomans around 1369. At that time, it was populated by about 15,000 Byzantine Greeks, Genoese, and Jews. Several Byzantine churches and a palace were located there. Armenians and Bulgarians arrived during Ottoman the Ottoman period and added their cultures to the area.
Kaleiçi used to contain several wooden homes with gardens built mostly by Greeks, Bulgarians, and Jews, but many were lost to fires in 1903 and 1912. Several churches, mosques, and synagogues were also destroyed. The fires allowed for redevelopment of the area, which was laid out by French experts along with local engineer Nazif Akanlar.
The area is still popular with tourists looking to admire the remaining Ottoman homes. They date back to the 18th, 19th, and early 20th centuries. Some have been beautifully restored while others are in disrepair. A few function as boutique hotels.
Kırkpınar House
One of the most impressive Ottoman homes is the Kırkpınar House (Kırkpınar Evi). It was built in the 19th century and now contains a museum dedicated to the Kırkpınar oil wrestling tournament. There’s also a tea garden in back.
Italian Church
A block west of the Kırkpınar House is the Italian Church (İtalyan Kilisesi), which was built in 1852. It was used as an additional building for a nearby school from 2006 to 2017. An inscription in Latin sits above the door.
Fish Market
The Fish Market (Balık Pazarı) runs along a street just south of the Ali Pasha Bazaar from Saraçlar Street. Along with a few fishmongers is a fish fountain in the middle of the street.
Grand Synagogue of Edirne
The Grand Synagogue of Edirne (Edirne Büyük Sinagogu) is a historic Sephardic synagogue in Kaleiçi that’s well worth a visit. It’s also known as the Adrianople Synagogue or Kal Kadoş ha Gadol.
The Grand Synagogue of Edirne is open to the public daily except Mondays from 9am to 5pm. Admission is free (as of July 2024). It’s located on Maarif Street.
History of the Grand Synagogue of Edirne
On September 2, 1905, the Great Fire of Adrianople destroyed over 1,500 homes and all 13 of the city’s synagogues. The Jewish community numbered 20,000 at that time, and petitioned Sultan Abdülhamid II to replace all 13 synagogues by building one large synagogue.
The Grand Synagogue of Edirne was built between 1906 and 1909. It was designed by French architect France Depré, who modeled it after the Leopoldstädter Tempel of Vienna.
The synagogue opened to worship in April 1909 and could accommodate 1,200 worshippers. It was the third largest synagogue in Europe and the largest in Turkey.
Over time, most of the Jewish community of Edirne left the city for Istanbul, Israel, Europe, or North America. The synagogue was abandoned in 1983 and fell into ruins after years of neglect.
In 1995, the property passed into the hands of the Turkish government. They invested over 5,750,000₺ in a restoration project that started on August 3, 2010, and finished on September 28, 2014.
The Grand Synagogue of Edirne reopened to the public on March 26, 2015, with a prayer service led by Rabbi David Azuz, who also led the prayer for its closing 36 years earlier.
The synagogue now serves the remaining local Jewish community, which numbers in the single digits. In 2016, it celebrated its first wedding in 41 years.
Inside, there are photos of the synagogue before and during restoration. There’s also a banner telling visitors about the history of the building and the scope of the restoration work.
Administration Center
Behind the synagogue is the administration center, which was also included in the restoration. It’s a two-story brick building with a basement. On the ground floor is space for local artisans to display their crafts while a temporary exhibition space is on the upper floor.
During a visit in October 2019, there was an exhibition about the life of Anne Frank. Another visit in May 2022 featured an exhibit about the daily lives of Turkish Jews.
Outbuilding
Just outside the entrance to the synagogue is a small outbuilding. I’m not sure of its function but there’s an inscription in Hebrew above the entrance.
Merzifonlu Kara Mustafa Pasha Fountain
Back towards the Selimiye Mosque is the Merzifonlu Kara Mustafa Pasha Fountain (Merzifonlu Kara Mustafa Paşa Çeşmesi). It was built in 1667 by Merzifonlu Kara Mustafa Pasha (1635-1683), nine years before he became Grand Vizier under Sultan Mehmed IV. It’s the largest fountain in Edirne.
The street in front of the fountain is full of a few touristy shops and cafés. It leads to the Edirne City Museum.
Edirne City Museum
The Edirne City Museum (Edirne Kent Müzesi) is an excellent museum with a wealth of information about the city. It opened on May 5, 2017, and is housed in the Hafızağa Mansion (Hafızağa Konağı), a historic 19th century Ottoman home.
Visiting the Edirne City Museum
The Edirne City Museum is open Tuesday through Saturday from 9am to 6pm. Adult admission is 10₺ (as of July 2024) and includes an audio application in five different languages. Only credit cards are accepted.
Unfortunately, when we visited, all of the information was in Turkish. The person at the front desk told me they were working on accommodating non-Turkish speakers at that time. Thankfully, I knew enough Turkish to understand most of the exhibits and translate for my wife.
Geography and Nature Exhibits
The museum is spread out over three floors, starting in the basement. The first exhibits are about the geography of Edirne as well as flora and fauna. There are sections providing information about the city’s transportation history and the major rivers that pass through.
History Exhibit
The ground floor is all about the history of Edirne. It starts with a timeline of the history of the city from prehistoric times until the Ottoman era, then continues with information about Ottoman Edirne.
There are wax figures of the Ottoman sultans who ruled from Edirne while it was the capital of the Ottoman Empire. They start with Sultan Murad I, who conquered Adrianople and renamed it Edirne. In 1363 he moved the Ottoman capital from Bursa to Edirne.
The next section includes information about important architecture in the city, including the Selimiye Mosque designed by Mimar Sinan (1490-1588). One room is dedicated to historic buildings in Edirne, complete with an interactive display where visitors can look up details or see photos of different types of buildings.
The ground floor exhibits of the Edirne City Museum end with information about the different occupations of Edirne by Russia, Bulgaria, and Greece.
Culture Exhibit
The top floor is the most interesting section of the museum for me. It includes several different cultural exhibits, starting with migration to Edirne and demographics. Next is a section about the city government with photos of past mayors.
An exhibit on the economy of Edirne follows, focusing mostly on agriculture. There’s also a special display about local crafts, including saddles, brooms, tiles, marbling, and fruit soaps as well as Edirnekârî arts.
An entire room is dedicated to local sports, with an emphasis on the Kırkpınar wrestling tournament that has taken place in Edirne since 1360. One display talks about Edirnespor, the local football team founded in 1966.
The next sections focus on health, education, and the press in Edirne. The city has been an important health center since the 15th century with the foundation of the Bayezid II Complex.
The final exhibits are about culture, including traditions with weddings and children, local cuisine, folk dances, and more. One room allows visitors to listen to the oral histories of local citizens.
My Thoughts on the Edirne City Museum
Overall, the Edirne City Museum is a fantastic place to learn about the history and culture of Edirne. I hope in the future there’s more content in English and other languages because it would be a shame for non-Turkish speakers to miss out on such a good museum.
Ottoman Tombstone Exhibition
In a small park across the street to the east of the Selimiye Mosque is an Ottoman tombstone exhibition. It contains several fine examples of Ottoman tombstones.
Ottoman tombstones give lots of information about the person buried in the tomb. They indicate occupation, gender, age, and social status, sometimes without using written language. The tombstones are also considered important works of art.
Edirne Archaeology and Ethnography Museum
Finally, across the street from the tombstone exhibition is the Edirne Archaeology and Ethnography Museum (Edirne Arkeoloji ve Etnografya Müzesi). It’s one of the most important museums in the city.
The Edirne Archaeology and Ethnography Museum was founded in 1924 on the orders of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938), the founder of the Turkish Republic. It was the first museum in Edirne and was originally housed in the former Hadith School at the Selimiye Mosque (now the Edirne Turkish and Islamic Art Museum). The current building opened to the public on June 13, 1971.
Visiting the Edirne Archaeology and Ethnography Museum
The museum is open daily. Admission for foreigners is €3 (as of July 2024). Check the official website for more info. It’s a small museum that features some interesting pieces and doesn’t take long to go through.
Ethnographic Section
The first section is the ethnographic section. It features locally made items used in everyday life, including carpets, embroidery, pottery, wooden chests, and calligraphy plates. An interpretive panel also explains the history and process of making Edirne’s famous fruit soaps.
Traditional regional clothing worn by 19th century brides and grooms is showcased along with bridal dresses from the small town of Kofçaz.
Other displays exhibit Ottoman coffee culture and traditional items used in Turkish hamams. A replica writing room with original wooden furniture, writing utensils, and books is also featured along with an Ottoman mansion.
Archaeological Section
The archaeological section continues in the next room, with prehistoric items, a Thracian funerary stele, and items excavated from the Taşlıcabayır Tumulus outside Kırklareli. A mock archaeological site displays artifacts excavated from Edirne Fortress and around the Macedonian Tower.
The following room focuses on ancient Greek cultures in and around Edirne. Pottery dating back to the 6th and 7th centuries BC excavated from Ainos (modern Enez), as well as sarcophagi, fragments of statues, and column capitals are all exhibited.
A long corridor leading to the exit features more grave steles and stone carved items, including an inscription from the Adrianople Metropolitan Church and a relief of St. George.
The glass displays contain jewelry and other small items as well as Christian artifacts. Crosses, icons, and representation of the Last Supper made with mother-of-pearl caught my eye.
Garden
The garden exhibits large items such as column capitals, sarcophagi, and Ottoman tombstones. There’s also a dolmen, which was a monumental stone structure used as a burial chamber.
