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In the heart of Colombia’s Coffee Region is the small town of Circasia. It lies on the road between the cities of Pereira and Armenia and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listed Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia.
Introduction to Circasia
Circasia was founded on August 10, 1884, by Javier Arias. At that time, it was part of Filandia. It became its own municipality on December 8, 1906. The town is named for Circassia, a historic region in the North Caucasus now part of Russia. Today, Circasia is in the heart of the Coffee Region and is an important producer of coffee and other agricultural goods. It’s also near several tourist and natural attractions.
On my very first visit to Circasia in February 2015, there really wasn’t much to see but I enjoyed our quick stop there. On my next visit in October 2021, things had dramatically improved and it was much livelier and had more to see and do. Lots of decent restaurants have popped up as well. I’ve been back several times since.
Getting to Circasia
Buses regularly run through Circasia from Pereira and Armenia. There’s no bus terminal so you will have to ask the driver to let you off in Circasia. The buses run along one way streets just a block or two from the plaza.
It’s easier to get to and from Circasia via Armenia. There are several companies to choose from for that route. From Pereira’s bus terminal, we went with Flota Occidental, which is the only company that runs buses from Pereira directly into Circasia.
Parque Bolívar
The plaza is very large with tall shady trees. In the center is a small fountain. Next to it is a statue of Simón Bolívar (1783-1830).
The plaza is surrounded by a handful of colorful colonial-style buildings. They’re filled with shops, restaurants, cafés, and government buildings.
Future Church
Unlike most main plazas in Colombia, there’s no church – at least not yet. During my visits, Circasia has been in the process of building a new church. Some of the walls were constructed and there was a large banner in front asking for donations to support the construction process. Services were being held in a small makeshift structure inside the skeleton of the new church. Over the six years that had passed between visits, it was nice to see a roof had been built.
Carrera 15
The block running west of Parque Bolívar down Carrera 15 contains a few colonial-style buildings that are worth checking out.
Mirador Alto de la Cruz
A couple blocks from the plaza is a lookout tower called Mirador Alto de la Cruz. After climbing a staircase, we entered a small café and went up to the top of the tower. Admission to climb to the top is COP$1,500 per person (as of March 2022). There are nice views of the town and surrounding areas.
San José College
About a block south of the plaza is San José College (Colegio San José). It’s a historic school that’s among the most important educational institutions in town. It was originally founded in 1904 as a school for girls.
Cipriano Echeverri House Museum
Finally, about five blocks west of the plaza down Carrera 15 is the Cipriano Echeverri House Museum (Casa Museo Cipriano Echeverri). This small historic house is the oldest in Circasia, built in the early 20th century. It’s very well preserved and contains the original walls, floors, ceilings, and doors. Admission is free (as of March 2022).
A very friendly and knowledgeable caretaker opened the house for us and explained its history and significance to the town of Circasia. On display during our visit were paintings and sculptures by a local artist who lived into his 90s as well as original artifacts made by the Quimbaya people.
Where to Eat in Circasia
We’ve usually stopped in Circasia for coffee only, but have eaten at one restaurant as well.
La Ruana Café Tertulia
The absolute highlight of our trips to Circasia has always been La Ruana Café Tertulia. They serve some of the best coffee I’ve found in Colombia. It’s located in an old home a block from the plaza. Besides outdoor seating in the garden, there are a few rooms all decorated with antiques.
On our first visit, Marisol and I each had a cappuccino flavored with liquor and shared a café campesino (coffee with aguapanela). On our second visit, I had a cappuccino and Marisol had a mojito, which they also do very well.
Café del Guadual
Café del Guadual is another good coffee place in Circasia. It sits in a historic building along Carrera 15 around the corner from La Ruana.
We really enjoyed sitting in the outdoor patio in the back. The coffee is good and service is friendly and efficient. We also recommend trying one of their cakes.
La Patasola
Finally, if you have a big appetite and are looking for good traditional Colombian cuisine, head to La Patasola. This restaurant took over the former location of La Ruana Café Tertulia and is located a half block from the plaza.
They serve up huge portions of meat, fish, and chicken dishes as well as good starters. I was satisfied with my Caribbean seafood rice while Marisol really enjoyed her salmon in a cheese sauce.
