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The walls of Cartagena (Las Murallas) are one of the most striking features of this UNESCO World Heritage listed city. They enclose the Old Town districts of El Centro and San Diego and continue around Getsemaní.
Introduction to the Walls of Cartagena
Construction on the walls of Cartagena started in 1586 after an attack by Sir Francis Drake (1540-1596) and they were completed in 1796. The walls were designed by Italian architect Battista Antonelli (1547-1616). These thick stone walls even have cannons placed along them to recreate the authentic feeling of the old Spanish colony.
The walls used to be right up against the Caribbean Sea but modern necessities called for changes. The area on the outside of the walls was filled in, a road around the old town was built, and a sea of grass now lays where the waves used to crash into the walls.
It’s a great experience to walk the perimeter of the city along the walls, and on top of them whenever possible. They offer a fantastic glimpse into the past and give a unique perspective of the city. For this post, I’ll follow the walls of Cartagena in a clockwise direction from the Puerta del Reloj all the way around to Getsemaní. I’ll provide details of each bastion and several photos. Visit the official website for more info.
Puerta del Reloj
We’ll start our tour of the walls of Cartagena with the Puerta del Reloj (Clock Tower Gate). It’s the main gate to the old town of Cartagena and is known by locals as Boca del Puente. It linked the commercial, governmental, and wealthy residential area of El Centro to the slave quarter of Getsemaní by a drawbridge over a moat. The bridge was made of wood and was first built in 1540. It was the only access from Getsemaní to the old town and opens onto Carriage Plaza (Plaza de los Coches).
The first gate was built in 1631 and was destroyed during the French Raid on Cartagena in 1697, led by Bernard Desjean, Baron de Pointis (1645-1707). It was rebuilt starting in 1704 by engineer Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor (d. 1732) with three bomb-proof vaults and stores to keep food and supplies. It also contained a spire to hold the city clock and bell. The gate kept its form until 1888 when the clock tower was added by local architect Luis Felipe Jaspe Franco (1846-1918).
The gate was once protected to the right by the Bastion of Apostle Saint Peter (Baluarte San Pedro Apóstol) and to the left by the Bastion of Saint John the Evangelist. The former has since disappeared from the walls of Cartagena.
Bastion of Saint John the Evangelist
Moving to the left of the Clock Tower Gate is the Bastion of Saint John the Evangelist (Baluarte San Juan Evangelista). It was also known as the Bastion of Accountancy (Baluarte de la Contaduría); the Bastion of Saint John the Baptist (Baluarte San Juan Bautista); the Bastion of Saint Anthony of Padua (Baluarte San Antonio de Padua); and the Bridge Bastion (Baluarte del Puente).
The Bastion of Saint John the Evangelist was built around 1617 by Italian engineer Cristóbal de Roda (1560-1631) and was originally a thin wall. It was strengthened in 1630 by Spanish governor and engineer Francisco de Murga (c. 1570-1636).
Bastion of Saint Ignatius
Continuing south is the Bastion of Saint Ignatius of Loyola (Baluarte San Ignacio de Loyola). Formerly the Bastion of the Moors (Baluarte de los Moros), it was completed around 1630 under Francisco de Murga continuing the work originally begun by Cristóbal de Roda on a plan designed by de Roda’s uncle, Battista Antonelli (1547-1616). The name was changed to honor Saint Ignatius of Loyola (1491-1556), a co-founder of the Jesuit order, due to its proximity to a Jesuit complex.
The first wall was built on Jesuit land, and the Jesuits ended up building their school and cloister on top, which invalidated its defensive purpose. After a dispute that lasted 30 years, it was decided to move the wall further outside by creating a street between the school and the future wall. The Jesuits agreed to pay for the new construction. It’s easy to spot the first wall making up the foundation of the buildings across the street from the current wall, and there are nice views of the Church of San Pedro Claver and its cloister.
The current wall was designed by Spanish engineer Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor (d. 1732) in 1730. He gave it an access ramp and a wide floor with an irregular floorplan. The Bastion of Saint Ignatius was refurbished at the end of the 18th century by Spanish engineer Antonio de Arévalo (1715-1800), and again in 1969 by the Colombian Ministry of Public Works (Ministerio de Obras Públicas).
Bastion of Saint Francis Xavier
Heading west along the walls of Cartagena is the Bastion of Saint Francis Xavier (Baluarte San Francisco Javier). It was completed around 1630 under Francisco de Murga continuing work originally begun by Cristóbal de Roda.
The Bastion of Saint Francis Xavier was first known as the Basket Bastion (Baluarte de los Cestones) because of the large baskets used in the construction of its foundations. The name was changed to honor Saint Francis Xavier (1506-1552), a co-founder of the Jesuit order, due to its proximity to the Jesuit complex.
The bastion was severely damaged during the French Raid on Cartagena in 1697, led by Bernard Desjean, Baron de Pointis (1645-1707). It was rebuilt with a modified plan between 1720 and 1730 by Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor.
Oldest Sections of the Walls of Cartagena
The Bastions of Saint James, Saint Dominic, and the Holy Cross were the first sections of the walls of Cartagena ever built. They protected the most exposed area of the city, which was the strip of sand that joined it with Bocagrande. They were originally proposed by Italian architect Battista Antonelli (1547-1616) in 1595. Construction on all three bastions started in 1614 under Spanish governor Diego de Acuña and was led by Antonelli’s nephew, Italian engineer Cristóbal de Roda (1560-1631).
Bastion of Saint James
The Bastion of Apostle Saint James (Baluarte Santiago Apóstol) was designed by Cristóbal de Roda, who used the original project drawn up by his uncle as a guide.
The bastion was damaged during the French Raid on Cartagena in 1697, led by Bernard Desjean, Baron de Pointis (1645-1707). Spanish engineer Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor (d. 1732) repaired the damage between 1714 and 1719. It’s completely intact except for a section cut away to allow for traffic to flow out of the old town.
Bastion of Saint Dominic
Just a bit north is the Bastion of Saint Dominic (Baluarte Santo Domingo). It contained a cistern and a space to shelter soldiers. Today, the bastion is a popular place for visitors, complete with a café, cannons, and excellent views.
The very first stone on the walls of Cartagena was laid at the Bastion of Saint Dominic on September 8, 1614, in the same spot where Sir Francis Drake (1540-1596) attacked the city on February 9-11, 1586. It was completed around 1625 under the governorship of Diego Escobar. The bastion was damaged during the French Raid on Cartagena in 1697 and was repaired by Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor between 1714 and 1718.
The Bastion of Saint Dominic was also known as the Bastion of Saint Mary (Baluarte Santa María) and the Bastion of Saint Philip (Baluarte San Felipe). The name was later changed to honor Saint Dominic (1170-1221), due to its proximity to a Dominican convent nearby.
Gate of Saint Dominic
A few steps past the Bastion of Saint Dominic is the Gate of Saint Dominic (Puerta de Santo Domingo. It was opened by Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor in the early 18th century after the walls were damaged during the French Raid on Cartagena in 1697.
Bastion of the Holy Cross
Finally, the Bastion of the Holy Cross (Baluarte La Santa Cruz), sits further to the north. It was mostly destroyed during the French Raid on Cartagena in 1697.
Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor started repairs on the bastion at the beginning of the 18th century, but two separate storms in 1713 and 1714 caused it to collapse in several places. He later reinforced the Bastion of the Holy Cross with three bomb-proof vaults and added a store for gunpowder and supplies.
Marine Wall
After the Bastion of the Holy Cross, there’s a section of the walls of Cartagena stretching all the way to Las Bóvedas and the Bastion of Saint Catherine (Baluarte Santa Catalina). It’s known as the Marine Wall (Muralla de la Marina). Over a period of 150 years, it was destroyed several times both by the sea and by enemy attacks, causing the need for constant reconstruction.
Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor (d. 1732) rebuilt the Marine Wall section in the early 18th century and proposed a breakwater for further protection. This wasn’t realized until 1765, when Spanish engineer Antonio de Arévalo (1715-1800) began work to improve Herrera’s system. The problem was finally solved in 1771 with the completion of the project.
Crossbows Platform
The first major section along the Marine Wall heading in a clockwise direction is the Crossbows Platform (Plataforma de las Ballestas). It was built between 1614 and 1619 by Italian engineer Cristóbal de Roda (1560-1631). The Crossbows Platform was originally a bastion named Saint Charles (Baluarte San Carlos), and was consistently damaged by storms.
Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor and another Spanish engineer, Alberto Mienson, rebuilt the platform starting in 1721. Antonio de Arévalo modified its appearance during further restoration between 1764 and 1769.
Mercy Bastion
Next is the Mercy Bastion (Baluarte La Merced), which was completed around 1617 by Cristóbal de Roda and destroyed by a “northerner” in 1618. A reconstruction ordered by Spanish governor and engineer Francisco de Murga (c. 1570-1636) was completed between 1629 and 1630.
The bastion was constantly battered by the sea and was always need of repairs during the 17th and 18th centuries. Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor restored it between 1721 and 1733. He gave it its current form to mitigate the impact of the sea.
The Mercy Bastion was named for its neighbor, the Convent of Our Lady of Mercy (Nuestra Señora de La Merced). The Heredia Theatre now occupies the site.
Bastion of Saint Clare
Finally, the last bastion on the Marine Wall before Las Bóvedas is the Bastion of Saint Clare (Baluarte Santa Clara). It was built by Cristóbal de Roda between 1617 and 1630, while Francisco de Murga coated the escarpment from 1625 to 1630.
Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor carried out repairs on the bastion between 1714 and 1719. It was later destroyed by a series of storms and strengthened in 1742 by Spanish engineer Juan Bautista Mac Evan (d. 1752). The bastion was not fully repaired until 1761, when Antonio de Arévalo modified its appearance by destroying the right flank and connecting it to what later became Las Bóvedas with a ramp.
The Bastion of Saint Clare was named for the nearby Convent of Saint Clare of Assisi (Convento de Santa Clara de Asís).
Las Bóvedas
After the Marine Wall, the walls of Cartagena continue with Las Bóvedas. The building is attached to the Bastion of Saint Clare to the south via a ramp and the Bastion of Saint Catherine to the north via the rooftop. Las Bóvedas contains 23 bomb-proof vaults and was built on a plan designed by Spanish engineer Antonio de Arévalo (1715-1800). The arched portal was completed in 1798.
Las Bóvedas was originally built as a garrison and storehouse between 1789 and 1795. In the 19th century, it was used as a dungeon. During high tide, prisoners found themselves up to their knees in seawater.
Today, Las Bóvedas is one of the most visited buildings in Cartagena. Its stalls are now used as a souvenir and craft market. You can find just about any Colombian souvenir here, but don’t forget to bargain!
Bastion of Saint Catherine
The Bastion of Saint Catherine (Baluarte Santa Catalina) sits at the northernmost section of the walls of Cartagena. It was designed in 1595 by Italian architect Battista Antonelli (1547-1616). Construction began around 1625 under Antonelli’s nephew, Italian engineer Cristóbal de Roda (1560-1631), who modified the design by increasing its size.
Spanish governor and engineer Francisco de Murga (c. 1570-1636) wasn’t happy with the design. He took over construction in 1631 and oversaw it until his death in 1636. He extended the fortification with moats and ravelins. The bastion was completed in 1638.
Like the rest of the Marine Wall, the Bastion of Saint Catherine was plagued by damage from storms and repairs were constant. It was also damaged during the French Raid on Cartagena in 1697, led by Bernard Desjean, Baron de Pointis (1645-1707).
Spanish engineer Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor (d. 1732) repaired the damage starting in 1719. He also built a spur to act as a sea wall, protecting the bastion and the entire Marine Wall from the force of the sea. Antonio de Arévalo enhanced the repairs around the 1760s. Most of the bastion is intact, with only a small section being demolished at the end of the 19th century.
Storage Vaults
Before arriving at the Bastion of Saint Luke from the Bastion of Saint Catherine, there are two doors leading to storage vaults. The first was used to store gunpowder and the second is listed as Vault #1 (Bóveda #1).
Bastion of Saint Luke
Just past the doors is the ramp leading up to the Bastion of Saint Luke (Baluarte San Lucas). It was used together with the Bastion of Saint Catherine to defend the city from the northwest.
The Bastion of Saint Luke was designed in 1595 by Italian architect Battista Antonelli (1547-1616). Construction began around 1617 under Antonelli’s nephew, Italian engineer Cristóbal de Roda (1560-1631), who modified the design by increasing its size.
Spanish governor and engineer Francisco de Murga (c. 1570-1636) wasn’t happy with the design and believed the Italian ideas were obsolete. He took over construction in 1631 and oversaw it until his death in 1636. The bastion was completed in 1638 and a pincer was added in 1645.
The Bastion of Saint Luke was damaged during the French Raid on Cartagena in 1697, led by Bernard Desjean, Baron de Pointis (1645-1707). Spanish engineer Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor (d. 1732) repaired the damage starting in 1719, and Spanish engineer Antonio de Arévalo (1715-1800) carried out further restoration around the 1760s.
Bastion of Saint Peter Martyr
Walking south along the walls is the Bastion of Saint Peter Martyr (Baluarte San Pedro Mártir). Construction began under Cristóbal de Roda and Francisco de Murga around 1630. It wasn’t completed until 1683 by Spanish engineer Juan de Pando y Estrada. He joined it to the Bastion of Saint Michael of Chambacú on the walls of Getsemaní via a stockade.
Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor reconstructed the bastion between 1721 and 1730. It was partially destroyed at the beginning of the 20th century as well as the entire section of the city walls of Cartagena leading back to the Puerta del Reloj. Also destroyed were the Bastion of Saint Andrew (Baluarte San Andrés), the Bastion of Saint Paul (Baluarte San Pablo), and the Bastion of Apostle Saint Peter (Baluarte San Pedro Apóstol).
Walls of Getsemaní
The walls of Getsemaní protected the Getsemaní district. All five bastions on the walls were built starting in 1631 by Spanish governor and engineer Francisco de Murga (c. 1570-1636). They were initially detached from the rest of the walls of Cartagena.
Parque San Miguel de Chambacú
Parque San Miguel de Chambacú is a pleasant little space with some grassy areas, flowers, and trees running along a channel. This is the space between the Bastion of Saint Peter Martyr and the Bastion of Saint Michael of Chambacú on the walls of Getsemaní.
Bastion of Saint Michael of Chambacú
First, at the northern end of the walls of Getsemaní is the Bastion of Saint Michael of Chambacú (Baluarte San Miguel de Chambacú). It was completed in 1632 and was also known as the Bastion of Saint Michael of Gamboa (Baluarte San Miguel de Gamboa).
In 1683, Spanish engineer Juan de Pando y Estrada joined the Bastion of Saint Michael of Chambacú to the Bastion of Saint Peter Martyr on the main walls of Cartagena by building a stockade. It had an access door allowing small boats to enter a canal.
During restoration in 1731, Spanish engineer Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor (d. 1732) went back to the original plan but enlarged the bastion’s proportions. Around 1893, the Bastion of Saint Michael of Chambacú was partially destroyed to allow for the passage of a railway line.
Bastion of Saint Teresa
Heading south is the Bastion of Saint Teresa (Baluarte Santa Teresa). It was completed in 1633 with the help of master builder Lucas Báez (b. 1560). The bastion protected the left flank of the Half Moon Gate (Puerta de la Media Luna), which provided the only land access to the entire city. It’s curved and has a Dutch-inspired design.
The Bastion of Santa Teresa was damaged during the French Raid on Cartagena in 1697, led by Bernard Desjean, Baron de Pointis (1645-1707). Spanish engineer Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor (d. 1732) repaired the damage in 1732 and added terracing.
Bastion of Saint Barbara
The Bastion of Saint Barbara (Baluarte Santa Bárbara) protected the right flank of the Half Moon Gate. Like the Bastion of Saint Teresa, it was completed in 1633 with the help of Lucas Báez and also has a Dutch-inspired design.
The Bastion of Saint Barbara was damaged during the French Raid in 1697 and was repaired in 1732 by Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor. It provides great views of Castillo San Felipe and La Popa.
Bastion of Saint Joseph
Next is the Bastion of Saint Joseph (Baluarte San José), which has a Dutch-inspired design. It was repaired in 1732 by Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor.
Spanish engineer Lorenzo de Solís (1693-1761) assessed the bastion in 1753 and reported it was in poor condition. Another Spanish engineer, Antonio de Arévalo (1715-1800), carried out repairs that were completed around 1770.
Redoubt Bastion
Finally, on the southern end of the walls of Getsemaní is the Redoubt Bastion (Baluarte El Reducto), which was completed by Lucas Báez in 1633. Its purpose was to protect the entrance to the port and reinforce the defenses of Fort San Sebastian of Pastelillo (Fuerte San Sebastián del Pastelillo). Francisco de Murga wanted it built not only for defensive purposes, but also to prevent contraband and undeclared merchandise from entering the city.
The Redoubt Bastion was built based on a design by Italian engineer Cristóbal de Roda (1560-1631) and is similar to a medieval tower. It was separated from the rest of the walls when the Román Bridge (Puente Román) was built in the early 20th century. The Redoubt Bastion was also known as the Bastion of Saint Lazarus (Baluarte San Lázaro) and the Bastion of Saint Lawrence (Baluarte San Lorenzo).
