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The UNESCO World Heritage listed Old Town of Cartagena is one of the most charming places to visit in Colombia. It sits behind Spanish defensive walls and is full of colorful colonial buildings.
Introduction to the Old Town of Cartagena
The Old Town of Cartagena and is divided into two neighborhoods, El Centro and San Diego. El Centro is the area that contained the government buildings, cathedral, and residences of the wealthy during the Spanish colonial period. Most buildings flaunt the wealth of the city’s colonial past, and there’s history around every corner.
San Diego was the neighborhood where middle class merchants and craftsmen lived. It features several beautiful colonial buildings like El Centro, but for the most part it’s quieter and much less crowded. Today, there are lots of upscale hotels and excellent restaurants scattered throughout the area.
For this tour of the Old Town of Cartagena, we’ll start outside the city walls at the Puerta del Reloj, which was the main gate during the Spanish colonial period. We’ll then walk around El Centro, dipping out of the walls at one point, and continue to San Diego. At the end, we’ll walk through a small section outside the walls of San Diego.
Colonial Buildings
The best thing to do in the Old Town of Cartagena is wander up and down the narrow streets of both El Centro and San Diego to admire the colonial architecture. Just about every street is beautiful. Many buildings have large balconies overflowing with flowers. In my opinion, the most beautiful streets in El Centro are Calle Baloco, Calle de los Estribos, Calle de la Factoría, Calle Estanco del Aguardiente, Calle de Santo Domingo, and Calle Ricaurte. In San Diego, I like Calle Tumbamuertos, Calle Cochera del Hobo, and Calle del Curato.
Door Knockers
Pay special attention to the elaborate door knockers and the metal knots on the doors. Apparently, they tell a lot about the wealth and social status of the former homeowners, although many are new and placed on buildings for show.
Puerta del Reloj
The Puerta del Reloj (Clock Tower Gate) is known locally as Boca del Puente. It linked the commercial, governmental, and wealthy area of the Old Town to the slave quarter of Getsemaní by a drawbridge over a moat. The bridge was made of wood and dated back to 1540.
The first gate was built in 1631 and was destroyed during the French Raid on Cartagena in 1697, led by Bernard Desjean, Baron de Pointis (1645-1707). It was rebuilt starting in 1704 by engineer Juan de Herrera y Sotomayor (d. 1732) with three bomb-proof vaults and stores to keep food and supplies. It also contained a spire to hold the city clock and bell.
The gate kept its form until 1888 when the clock tower was added by local architect Luis Felipe Jaspe Franco (1846-1918).
Plaza of the Martyrs
Plaza of the Martyrs (Plaza de Independencia), is a long plaza in front of the Puerta del Reloj. In the beginning of the 17th century, it became the location of the city’s slaughterhouse. The slaughterhouse moved when a public market later developed and the space became a plaza known to locals as Slaughterhouse Plaza (Plaza del Matadero).
On November 11, 1911, the plaza was officially named Centennial Plaza (Plaza del Centenario), and later Independence Plaza (Plaza de la Independencia). It takes its current name from the fact that nine Colombian revolutionaries were executed there on February 24, 1816, by Spanish military officer Pablo Morillo (1775-1837).
Pegasus Wharf
Along the plaza you’ll find the Pegasus Wharf (El Muelle de los Pegasos). It features two large statues of the mythical winged horses.
You can also get great views of some yachts and replica wooden ships moored nearby, as well as the city walls and the dome of the Church of San Pedro Claver. One of the ships is the Pirate Ship Museum (Museo Galeón Bucanero).
Cervantes Monument
On the Plaza of the Martyrs just opposite the Puerta del Reloj is a monument to Cervantes. It was dedicated in 2007 during a visit by the King of Spain. It features a bronze statue of the author sitting at a table. On the sides of the base are reliefs depicting different scenes from Don Quixote.
El Centro, Old Town of Cartagena
Once you pass through the Puerta del Reloj, you’ve entered the El Centro neighborhood of the Old Town of Cartagena.
Plaza de los Coches
Directly behind Puerta del Reloj is Plaza de los Coches (Carriage Square). It was originally used as a slave market, and by the end of the 16th century was full of merchants selling goods from Europe.
At the end of the 19th century, the city allowed carriages to park and wait on the side of the square, and locals began to call it Plaza de los Coches. The public gallows were located there until the 20th century, and executions occasionally took place. The statue in the center is of Pedro de Heredia (1505-1554), the founder of Cartagena.
Portal of the Sweets
The portal running along Plaza de los Coches is called the Portal of the Sweets (Portal de los Dulces). Not surprisingly, you can find a whole row of vendors selling delicious local sweets.
Plaza de la Aduana
Plaza de la Aduana (Customs Square) is a few steps south of Plaza de los Coches. It’s the largest square in the Old Town of Cartagena and takes up the southeast corner of El Centro. In 1790, during the Spanish colonial period, the offices for Customs Administration was installed there.
Royal Customs House
The Royal Customs House (Casa de la Aduana), which takes up the entire east side of the square, was responsible for inspecting all goods coming into port. It was originally built as the home of Pedro de Heredia (c. 1505-1554), the founder of Cartagena. Nowadays, it serves as City Hall (Alcaldía). Cartagena’s UNESCO plaque is located on a wall under the portal.
Casa del Marqués de Premio Real
On the west end of the square is the Casa del Marqués de Premio Real. It was built in the 18th century and served as the home of Domingo de Miranda y Llanos, the first Marquis de Premio Real. It was later converted to a warehouse and was also the home of French consul Adolfo Barrot.
Columbus Statue
A statue of Christopher Columbus sits at the east end of the square. It was erected on October 12, 1894, and is a replica of a statue in Genoa, Italy. An attempt by city officials to rename the square after Columbus shortly after failed miserably.
Plaza de San Pedro Claver
Around the corner from Plaza de la Aduana is Plaza de San Pedro Claver. There you can find the Church of San Pedro Claver, which is covered in another post, and several interesting iron sculptures by Colombian artist Edgardo Carmona. It’s also where visitors can get one of the most iconic photos of Cartagena.
At the south end of the plaza is a monument featuring San Pedro Claver helping a young slave boy.
Modern Art Museum of Cartagena
Opposite the Church of San Pedro Claver is the Modern Art Museum of Cartagena (Museo de Arte Moderno de Cartagena). I’m not typically a fan of modern art museums, but I enjoyed my short visit. Admission to the museum is COP$15,000 (as of March 2024). It’s open daily except Mondays from 11am to 6pm (5pm on Saturdays).
There are three galleries on the ground floor of the museum, which is housed in a refurbished 17th century building. The first gallery displayed works of art by Latin American artists.
The middle gallery was dedicated to works by Colombian artist Enrique Grau (1920-2004), including paintings and sculptures. It was his donation of 1,300 works of art that were used to establish the Modern Art Museum of Cartagena.
The third gallery held impressive paintings by Darío Ortiz, a self-taught Colombian artist born in Ibagué in 1968. This was by far my favorite gallery.
Upstairs, there was another gallery of sculptures and paintings by Latin American artists as well as a temporary exhibition about the history and culture of the Czech Republic.
In all, I spent about 20 minutes admiring the works. It was a nice escape from the heat and I was surprised that I actually enjoyed it as much as I did.
Parque de Bolívar
Walking a couple blocks north from Plaza de San Pedro Claver is Parque de Bolívar. It’s a small square with many trees and benches. There’s a fountain in the center and it’s surrounded by several important buildings. Street vendors usually sit outside selling drinks and snacks, and you’ll often see tourists feeding the pigeons and gawking at the iguanas.
The square was originally named Cathedral Square (Plaza de la Catedral) because the city’s cathedral is on the northeast corner. In 1610, it was renamed the Plaza of the Inquisition (Plaza de la Inquisición).
In 1890, bullfights were held in the square until a bull rammed a spectator. Later, on November 11, 1896, an equestrian monument to Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) was unveiled. At that point, the name changed from the Plaza of the Inquisition to Parque de Bolívar.
Palace of the Inquisition
The former Palace of the Inquisition (Palacio de la Inquisición), one of the most beautiful buildings in Cartagena, sits on the west side of the square. It was built between 1610 and 1770 and was home of the Punishment Tribunal of the Holy Office, where heretics were sentenced to death. The Tribunal was established in Cartagena on March 8, 1610, by royal decree of King Felipe III of Spain, and consisted of two inquisitors, a prosecutor, secretarial employees and sheriffs. The first sentence for heresy was ordered there on February 2, 1614.
On the side of the building is the Window of Denunciation (La Ventana de la Denuncia), where citizens would anonymously accuse others of being Jews, witches, devil worshippers, or non-Catholics. The Tribunal was suspended in 1811 only to be reinstated in 1815. It was completely abolished in 1821 after the city was liberated during the Colombian War of Independence.
Cartagena Historical Museum
Today, the building hosts the Cartagena Historical Museum (Museo Histórico de Cartagena), which I visited with Marisol. Adult admission is COP$24,000 (as of March 2024) and it’s open daily. While the building itself is beautiful, I wasn’t too impressed with the museum. There were some rooms displaying torture devices used during the Spanish Inquisition and a few rooms upstairs explaining the history of Cartagena. There were also some great views of Parque de Bolívar from balconies attached to those rooms.
Cathedral of Cartagena
The Cathedral of Cartagena (Catedral de Cartagena) sits on the northeast corner of the square. The full name is the Metropolitan Basilica Cathedral of St. Catherine of Alexandria (Catedral Basílica Metropolitana de Santa Catalina de Alejandría). The cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Cartagena de Indias, one of the oldest episcopal sees in the Americas.
The original cathedral was built between 1535 and 1537 of reeds with a thatched roof behind where the present cathedral stands. It burned down and was replaced by the second cathedral, which was a wooden structure built between 1563 and 1568.
The current Cathedral of Cartagena was designed by Simón González and inspired by cathedrals of Andalusia and the Canary Islands. It was built between 1577 and 1612. The dome and tower were refurbished by French architect Gaston Lelarge (1861-1934) in 1908, while the main portal and cornices are original to the Spanish colonial period.
If you look closely at the exterior of the cathedral on the side facing Parque de Bolívar, you’ll find a sundial. Behind the building is a statue of Pope John Paul II commemorating his visit to the city in 1986.
Cabildo
Across from the cathedral is the Cabildo, which was built in 1676. It sits on Proclamation Plaza (Plaza de la Proclamación) and has impressive arches. The Cabildo is where citizens gathered to endorse Cartagena’s Declaration of Independence from Spain on November 11, 1811. Today, it hosts various cultural events.
Zenú Gold Museum
Also on Parque de Bolívar is the Zenú Gold Museum (Museo del Oro Zenú), which tells the history of the indigenous people of the region. Admission is free (as of March 2024) and it’s open daily except Mondays from 9am to 5pm. I visited the museum in a temporary space a block to the west. It reopened in the original building on February 18, 2022. I’ll update this post when I have a chance to visit the original building.
Portal of the Queens
Finally, on the south end of Parque de Bolívar is the Portal of the Queens (Portal de las Reinas). It consists of tiles with the faces of each Miss Colombia.
Plaza de Santa Teresa
Back on the south end for a moment, Plaza de Santa Teresa is one of the most beautiful square in the Old Town of Cartagena. It’s a photogenic spot where you can stand atop the city walls and admire some beautiful colonial buildings. It’s also a great place to view the dome of the Church of San Pedro Claver. The east side of Plaza de Santa Teresa contains the Caribbean Naval Museum, which is covered in another post.
Convent of Santa Teresa
The cloister of the former Convent of Santa Teresa (Convento de Santa Teresa) is on the north side of the square. It was built in the early 17th century and served as a religious building until 1861. In the following years it served as a prison, hospital, police station, factory, and school, until it was finally converted into a luxury hotel. The former church is the hotel’s event center.
Promenade of the Naval Heroes
Alongside the Caribbean Naval Museum is the Promenade of the Naval Heroes (Paseo de los Héroes Navales). It’s situated between two sections of the city walls.
The promenade features a statue of Admiral José Padilla (1784-1828). There are also busts of naval heroes from other Latin American countries such as Irish-born Argentine Admiral William (Guillermo) Brown (1777-1857). The section against the Caribbean Naval Museum is lined with cannons.
Parque de la Marina
Just south of Plaza de Santa Teresa is Parque de la Marina, which sits outside the city walls. It’s one of the largest municipal parks in Cartagena.
Parque de la Marina was created by landfill as the city expanded. The park is divided into three parts: a monumental section, a large reflecting pool, and a natural area. It’s often used by the Colombian Navy for ceremonies.
A few different monuments can be found within the park. In front of the reflecting pool to the left is a monument dedicated to the naval infantry. In the center is a monument dedicated to Colombian sailors. Finally, to the right is a memorial dedicated to Colombian veterans of the Korean War. It was a gift to Colombia from South Korea. At the north end of the park is another monument.
Santander Monument
South of the park towards Bocagrande is a roundabout with a monument to Colombian independence hero and former president Francisco de Paula Santander (1792-1840).
Union of the Oceans Monument
West of Parque de la Marina is the Union of the Oceans Monument (Monumento Unión de los Océanos). The monument was erected in August 1998 and restored in 2015. It features an anchor from a Spanish ship and another from a Colombian ship. There’s also a text by Gabriel García Márquez (1927-2014).
Plaza de Santo Domingo
A couple blocks north is Plaza de Santo Domingo, which is surrounded by several small shops and restaurants. It’s a great place to sit and people watch. Gertrudis, a famous sculpture by Fernando Botero (1932-2023), is located there.
Church of Santo Domingo
The Church of Santo Domingo (Iglesia de Santo Domingo) sits on the west side of the square. It’s the oldest church in the Old Town of Cartagena, completed in 1559 by the Dominicans. Buttresses were added later to support the building.
The Church of Santo Domingo features a central nave lined with side chapels. The main altar was carved with Italian marble and designed by French architect Gaston Lelarge (1861-1934) in the early 20th century.
Convent of Santo Domingo
The former Convent of Santo Domingo (Convento de Santo Domingo) sits next door to the church. It was built in the 17th century and was used as a prison in the years after Colombian independence. Today, it houses the Spanish Consulate (Consulado de España) and there’s a small gallery inside.
When I visited, a room near the entrance featured photos of the negative effects of Colombian rebel groups, such as FARC and M-19, on Colombian society.
Calle de la Factoría
Running north of Plaza de Santo Domingo is Calle de la Factoría. In addition to being one of the more photogenic streets in the Old Town of Cartagena, it contains a couple historic buildings.
House of the Marquis of Valdehoyos
First is the House of the Marquis of Valdehoyos (Case del Marqués de Valdehoyos). It’s one of the most impressive mansions in the city. Today it’s a branch of the Colombian Chancellery and is used to house important guests visiting Cartagena.
The house was built in 1765 by the Marquis of Valdehoyos as a residence as well as a trade center. The Marquis willed the house to Josefa Tomasa, who used it as a flour and slave market. In 1825, the house was gifted to General Mariano Montilla (1782-1851) for the important role he played in Colombian independence. Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) stayed in the house in May 1830 on his way to Santa Marta, where he later died.
Montilla returned to his home in Venezuela in 1835, and the house was acquired by Pedro Maciá Doménech after a bitter lawsuit. It was sold to the government in 1969 and has been managed by different departments ever since.
Bolívar College
Next to the mansion is the Bolívar College (Colegio Mayor de Bolívar), which became the Major University Institution of Cartagena (Institución Universitaria Mayor de Cartagena) in 2020. The college was founded on March 22, 1947, to advance higher education for women in Cartagena.
House of Alejandro Obregón
At the north end of Calle de la Factoría is the house of Colombian artist Alejandro Obregón (1920-1992). He was born in Barcelona to a Colombian father and Catalan mother. His works have been featured in the collections of major modern art museums around the world. There has been discussion about turning the house into a museum.
Carmona Museum
Around the corner on Calle de la Artillería (Carrera 2), across from the city walls is the Carmona Museum (Museo Carmona). It’s a modern art museum displaying the works of Colombian artist and sculptor Edgardo Carmona. Some of his pieces are located in Plaza de San Pedro Claver in El Centro and Plazuela del Pozo in Getsemaní. Admission is free and there’s a café on the property. It was closed when I walked by and is apparently temporarily closed (as of March 2024).
Plaza de la Merced
Plaza de la Merced is a block east of the north end of Calle de la Factoría. It’s named for the Chapel of La Merced, which was built in 1625 and abandoned during the Colombian War of Independence.
Heredia Theatre
One of the most important landmarks in Cartagena is the stunning Heredia Theatre (Teatro Heredia), built between 1906 and 1911 by architect Luis Felipe Jaspe Franco. The theatre was built using the shell of the Chapel of La Merced. It’s officially named Adolfo Mejía Theatre (Teatro Adolfo Mejía) and opened on November 11, 1911.
The interior of the theatre features stairs made of white Carrara marble shipped from Italy. The mural on the ceiling, by Enrique Grau (1920-2004), represents the nine muses of the arts and sciences. It was added during a restoration that took place in 1988.
La Presentación
About a block and a half east on Calle Estanco del Aguardiente is La Presentación House Museum of Arts and Culture (La Presentación Casa Museo de Arte y Cultura). It’s an art gallery and café that also presents music, dance, theatre, and other performances. It’s housed in an aguardiente distillery that was later used as a high school. There’s also a small boutique hotel on site as well. I haven’t had a chance to visit yet.
Calle de la Universided
Calle de la Universidad is the location of the University of Cartagena (Universidad de Cartagena), which was founded on October 6, 1827. It’s housed in the Cloister of San Agustín.
Román Laboratories
Across the street from the university is Román Laboratories (Laboratorios Román). It was founded in 1835 by Manuel Román, an immigrant from Spain, as the first pharmaceutical company in Colombia.
Students Plaza
A few steps south is Students Plaza (Plaza de los Estudiantes). It’s a small yet attractive plaza across from the university. It’s surrounded by a hotel, restaurants, and cafés.
San Diego, Old Town of Cartagena
San Diego takes up the eastern ⅓ of the Old Town of Cartagena. It’s generally much quieter and with fewer points of interest, but is still full of beautiful architecture, boutique hotels, and restaurants.
Plaza Fernández de Madrid
Plaza Fernández de Madrid is pretty much the border between El Centro and San Diego. It’s one of the more popular squares in the Old Town of Cartagena. During colonial times, slaves and servants used to visit the square to fetch water from the wells located there. Today, it’s surrounded by several lively restaurants and bars.
Statue of José Fernández de Madrid
In the center is a statue of José Fernández de Madrid (1789-1830). He was twice the president of the United Provinces of New Granada, which was a country that seceded from Spain on July 20, 1810, and was reconquered on September 3, 1816. The borders were similar to those of modern Colombia.
Church of Santo Toribio
The Church of Santo Toribio (Iglesia de Santo Toribio de Mangrovejo), built between 1666 and 1732, is on the northwest corner of Plaza Fernández de Madrid. It was the last church built during the Spanish colonial period. Colombian race car driver Juan Pablo Montoya was married at the church in October 2002.
Plaza de San Diego
Plaza de San Diego is another popular square surrounded by restaurants and bars. It’s a block north of Plaza Férnandez de Madrid. It’s also full of (annoying) vendors selling crafts and other souvenirs.
Convent of San Diego
The red building on the east end of the square was once the Convent of San Diego (Convento de San Diego). It was designed by Simón González, who also designed the Cathedral of Cartagena, and built between 1611 and 1625. It now functions as the Bolívar University of Fine Arts and Sciences (Institución Universitaria Bellas Artes y Ciencias de Bolívar).
Gabo’s Home
Along the city walls you’ll find the private home of Colombian Nobel Prize winning novelist Gabriel García Márquez (1927-2014). It’s closed to the public.
Monument to the Albatrosses
On the other side of the walls across from Gabo’s home is the Monument to the Albatrosses (Monumento a los Alcatraces). It was made by Spanish sculptor Eladio Gil (1929-2011) and installed in 1974. The monument honors the poem The Albatross by Colombian author Daniel Lemaitre (1884-1961), and one of the birds most representative of the city.
La Serrezuela Mall
On the eastern end of San Diego is La Serrezuela Mall. It opened in 2019 and surrounds a historic bullring built in 1893. It’s one of the newest additions to the Old Town of Cartagena.
In the 1970s, the bullring was converted to a theatre, the Circo-teatro, which was declared a national monument in 1994. It fell into serious disrepair and it was impossible to save the original structure. The reconstruction is a beautiful wooden structure.
The mall contains several upscale shops as well as restaurants and cafés. Inside is a large sculpture, The Chronicler, by Colombian artist Alejandro Tobón Rojas. There’s also a fountain on the second level with great views of Castillo San Felipe and La Popa.
Monument to India Catalina
Just outside the walls to the east of San Diego is the Monument to India Catalina (Monumento a la India Catalina). It’s dedicated to India Catalina (1495-1538), an indigenous woman most likely from the Mokaná community.
Catalina was abducted in 1509 by Spanish conquistador Diego de Nicuesa (d. 1511). She was sent to Santo Domingo where she was educated as a Spaniard, learned Spanish, and adopted the Catholic faith. She later served as the translator of Pedro de Heredia (c. 1505-1554), the founder of Cartagena, during his conquests in Colombia. Catalina also served as Heredia’s concubine. Her real name is unknown.
The monument was designed by Spanish artist Eladio Gil (1929-2011) and was unveiled on March 9, 1974. Replicas of the statue are used as awards for the Cartagena International Film Festival (Festival Internacional de Cine de Cartagena de Indias).
Plaza Joe Arroyo
Finally, although not technically in the San Diego, is Plaza Joe Arroyo. It sits just south of San Diego across Avenida Venezuela in the neighborhood of La Matuna, which separates the Old Town of Cartagena from Getsemaní. The plaza contains a statue dedicated to Cartagena-born Colombian salsa legend Joe Arroyo (1955-2011).
Christmas in Old Town Cartagena
Christmas is a beautiful season to visit the Old Town of Cartagena. The entire area both inside and outside of Puerta del Reloj is decorated with lights as are some of the squares. On one visit, a floating Christmas tree that changes colors was just offshore from Pegasus Wharf.
