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The Kurşunlu Complex (Kurşunlu Külliyesi) is a historic mosque complex in Eskişehir, Turkey. It consists of several different buildings, many which are used as museums today.

Entrance to the Kurşunlu Complex

 

Introduction to the Kurşunlu Complex

The complex was built between 1517 and 1525 by Çoban Mustafa Paşa (d. 1529), a vizier under Süleyman the Magnificent. The architect is unknown but was most likely Acem Ali. The complex is named for the lead-covered dome of the mosque and features a pleasant green space.

Kurşunlu Complex
Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Kurşunlu Complex

 

Kurşunlu Mosque

The Kurşunlu Mosque (Kurşunlu Camii) is the centerpiece of the Kurşunlu Complex. Its lead-covered dome gave the entire complex its name. The mosque, which was most likely finished in 1525, was constructed of cut stone and has a single dome on an octagonal rim.

Kurşunlu Mosque
Kurşunlu Mosque
Lead-covered dome of the Kurşunlu Mosque in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Lead-covered dome

The entrance is under a colonnaded portico topped with five small domes and supported by six marble columns. The underside of the domes are all decorated with hand-drawn designs. A minaret with a single balcony stands on the northwest corner.

Colonnaded entrance portico of the Kurşunlu Mosque
Colonnaded entrance portico
Minaret of the Kurşunlu Mosque
Minaret

The prayer hall of the Kurşunlu Mosque is quite simple. It’s decorated with hand-drawn designs along the walls and underneath the dome. The mihrab is made of stone while the minbar is made of marble. A cabinet sits on either side of the mihrab. There are a few windows although the lighting is quite dim. For a virtual tour of the mosque, click here.

Inscription above the entrance of the Kurşunlu Mosque in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Inscription above the entrance
Prayer hall of the Kurşunlu Mosque in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Prayer hall

 

Fountain

Just opposite the entrance is an octagonal ablutions fountain (şadırvan) made of marble. It’s covered by a dome and arches supported by eight columns. The original fountain built with the complex has been lost due to renovations. It was replaced with the current fountain in the 1960s.

Ablutions fountain of the Kurşunlu Mosque in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Ablutions fountain
Ablutions fountain of the Kurşunlu Mosque
Ablutions fountain

 

Primary School of the Kurşunlu Complex

Starting to the east of the Kurşunlu Mosque and moving in a clockwise direction, the first building in the complex is the primary school (sıbyan mektebi). The primary school has a domed portico and one single domed room. If you look closely at the column, you’ll notice it was recycled from an ancient structure. Today, the primary school is used as a library.

Primary school at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Primary school
Primary school at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Primary school
Ancient column capital on the primary school at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Ancient column capital

 

Madrasa of the Kurşunlu Complex

Next is the madrasa (medrese), which is an L-shaped structure at the southeast corner of the Kurşunlu Complex. Stairs lead up to a large domed room, which was used as the classroom. Today, whirling dervishes use it as a Semahane to perform the Sema ritual. The rest of the building contained student cells, each with a flat arched door and small window. The cells measure 2.15 × 2.6 meters and contained a fireplace and cupboard.

Madrasa at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Madrasa
Classroom of the madrasa at the Kurşunlu Complex
Classroom

 

Meerschaum Gallery

The section to the left of the classroom hosts the Meerschaum Gallery (Lületaşı Galerisi). On display are nearly 500 impressive works made of meerschaum, a soft white clay mineral found in abundance near Eskişehir. The gallery was established in 2008 as the only one of its kind in the world. It’s open daily except Mondays and there’s no admission (as of November 2023).

Meerschaum Gallery at the Kurşunlu Complex
Meerschaum Gallery
Meerschaum Gallery at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Meerschaum Gallery

Most of the works in the gallery are made by local artists. The majority are tobacco pipes, which is one of the most common meerschaum products. The student cells opposite the displays function as shops selling meerschaum jewelry and other items.

Meerschaum pipes at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Meerschaum pipes
Meerschaum pipe at the Kurşunlu Complex
Meerschaum pipe
Chess pieces made of meerschaum at the Kurşunlu Complex
Chess pieces made of meerschaum

 

Eskişehir Craft Bazaar

The cells to the right of the classroom are used as the Eskişehir Craft Bazaar (Eskişehir Sanatları Çarşısı). All sorts of souvenirs, jewelry, calligraphy, and other crafts are on sale.

Craft Bazaar at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Craft Bazaar

 

Guesthouse of the Kurşunlu Complex

Continuing clockwise, the next building is the guesthouse (tabhane). It contains four identical domed rooms opening to a portico. A double-sided staircase leads up to the portico. Each room has a fireplace with a cupboard on either side.

Guesthouse from outside the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Guesthouse from outside the complex
Guesthouse at the Kurşunlu Complex
Guesthouse

 

Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery

Today, the guesthouse serves as the Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery (Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Fotoğraf Galerisi). The gallery opened to visitors in June 2017. It’s open daily except Mondays and admission is 5₺ (as of May 2022).

Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery at the Kurşunlu Complex
Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery
Classic camera models at the Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery at the Kurşunlu Complex
Classic camera models
Classic camera models at the Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery at the Kurşunlu Complex
Classic camera models
Polaroid cameras at the Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery at the Kurşunlu Complex
Polaroid cameras

On display are over 350 models of cameras, photography equipment, photos, books, and magazines. They were all donated by local photographer Osman Yaşar Tanaçan and are spread out over the four rooms. The portico included an exhibition of local photographers.

Room dedicated to Osman Yaşar Tanaçan at the Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery at the Kurşunlu Complex
Room dedicated to Osman Yaşar Tanaçan
Photo studio at the Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery at the Kurşunlu Complex
Photo studio
Photo studio at the Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery at the Kurşunlu Complex
Photo studio
Exhibition in the portico at the Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery at the Kurşunlu Complex
Exhibition in the portico

 

Dining Hall of the Kurşunlu Complex

The dining hall (imarethane) sits immediately west of the guesthouse. It has a barrel vaulted ceiling and was once used as a wedding venue.

Entrance to the dining hall at the Kurşunlu Complex
Entrance to the dining hall

 

Hot Glass Blowing Studio

The dining hall now hosts a hot glass blowing studio. Just inside the entrance are impressive glass works made by both local and international artists.

Hot glass blowing studio at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Hot glass blowing studio
Display featuring glass works
Display featuring glass works
Glass sculpture
Glass sculpture
Glass sculpture
Glass sculpture

 

Soup Kitchen of the Kurşunlu Complex

Right across from the dining hall is the soup kitchen (aşevi), which contains a chimney on the western wall. The chimney was used as a clock tower from the late 19th century to the 1960s.

Soup kitchen at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Soup kitchen
Soup kitchen at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Soup kitchen

 

Flameworking Studio

Today, the soup kitchen serves as a flameworking studio. We were able to see an artist in action creating glass jewelry. There are also several colorful glass items for sale.

Flameworking studio at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Flameworking studio
Glass jewelry and other items
Glass jewelry and other items
Glass items
Glass items

 

Caravanserai of the Kurşunlu Complex

Finally, the large building north of the soup kitchen is the caravanserai (kervansaray), which was completed after 1529. Just inside the entrance is a scale model of the entire Kurşunlu Complex.

Caravanserai at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Caravanserai
Scale model of the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Scale model of the Kurşunlu Complex

The building features two halls, each with a barrel vaulted ceiling supported by buttresses on both sides and six pillars in the middle. It was divided into 14 sections, each containing a fireplace.

Caravanserai
Caravanserai
Caravanserai at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Caravanserai

 

Woodwork Gallery

The caravanserai houses the Woodwork Gallery (Ahşap Eserler Galerisi). It opened on May 25, 2016, and moved to its current location in May 2017. The gallery is open daily except Mondays and admission is 30₺ (as of May 2024).

Wood sculpture by a Turkish artist
Wood sculpture by a Turkish artist
Wood sculpture by an artist from Ghana at the Woodwork Gallery at the Kurşunlu Complex in Odunpazarı, Eskişehir, Turkey
Wood sculpture by an artist from Ghana
Item in the Woodwork Gallery
Item in the Woodwork Gallery

On display are about 150 pieces of modern wooden art made by both Turkish and international sculptors. They were made for international woodworking festivals held at the gallery. Click here for a virtual tour of the caravanserai.

Wood sculpture by an artist from Colombia
Wood sculpture by an artist from Colombia
Sculpture of an octopus by a Turkish artist
Sculpture of an octopus by a Turkish artist

 

Map Containing the Kurşunlu Complex

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Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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