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The Kurşunlu Complex (Kurşunlu Külliyesi) is a historic mosque complex in Eskişehir, Turkey. It consists of several different buildings, many which are used as museums today.
Introduction to the Kurşunlu Complex
The complex was built between 1517 and 1525 by Çoban Mustafa Paşa (d. 1529), a vizier under Süleyman the Magnificent. The architect is unknown but was most likely Acem Ali. The complex is named for the lead-covered dome of the mosque and features a pleasant green space.
Kurşunlu Mosque
The Kurşunlu Mosque (Kurşunlu Camii) is the centerpiece of the Kurşunlu Complex. Its lead-covered dome gave the entire complex its name. The mosque, which was most likely finished in 1525, was constructed of cut stone and has a single dome on an octagonal rim.
The entrance is under a colonnaded portico topped with five small domes and supported by six marble columns. The underside of the domes are all decorated with hand-drawn designs. A minaret with a single balcony stands on the northwest corner.
The prayer hall of the Kurşunlu Mosque is quite simple. It’s decorated with hand-drawn designs along the walls and underneath the dome. The mihrab is made of stone while the minbar is made of marble. A cabinet sits on either side of the mihrab. There are a few windows although the lighting is quite dim. For a virtual tour of the mosque, click here.
Fountain
Just opposite the entrance is an octagonal ablutions fountain (şadırvan) made of marble. It’s covered by a dome and arches supported by eight columns. The original fountain built with the complex has been lost due to renovations. It was replaced with the current fountain in the 1960s.
Primary School of the Kurşunlu Complex
Starting to the east of the Kurşunlu Mosque and moving in a clockwise direction, the first building in the complex is the primary school (sıbyan mektebi). The primary school has a domed portico and one single domed room. If you look closely at the column, you’ll notice it was recycled from an ancient structure. Today, the primary school is used as a library.
Madrasa of the Kurşunlu Complex
Next is the madrasa (medrese), which is an L-shaped structure at the southeast corner of the Kurşunlu Complex. Stairs lead up to a large domed room, which was used as the classroom. Today, whirling dervishes use it as a Semahane to perform the Sema ritual. The rest of the building contained student cells, each with a flat arched door and small window. The cells measure 2.15 × 2.6 meters and contained a fireplace and cupboard.
Meerschaum Gallery
The section to the left of the classroom hosts the Meerschaum Gallery (Lületaşı Galerisi). On display are nearly 500 impressive works made of meerschaum, a soft white clay mineral found in abundance near Eskişehir. The gallery was established in 2008 as the only one of its kind in the world. It’s open daily except Mondays and there’s no admission (as of November 2023).
Most of the works in the gallery are made by local artists. The majority are tobacco pipes, which is one of the most common meerschaum products. The student cells opposite the displays function as shops selling meerschaum jewelry and other items.
Eskişehir Craft Bazaar
The cells to the right of the classroom are used as the Eskişehir Craft Bazaar (Eskişehir Sanatları Çarşısı). All sorts of souvenirs, jewelry, calligraphy, and other crafts are on sale.
Guesthouse of the Kurşunlu Complex
Continuing clockwise, the next building is the guesthouse (tabhane). It contains four identical domed rooms opening to a portico. A double-sided staircase leads up to the portico. Each room has a fireplace with a cupboard on either side.
Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery
Today, the guesthouse serves as the Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Photography Gallery (Osman Yaşar Tanaçan Fotoğraf Galerisi). The gallery opened to visitors in June 2017. It’s open daily except Mondays and admission is 5₺ (as of May 2022).
On display are over 350 models of cameras, photography equipment, photos, books, and magazines. They were all donated by local photographer Osman Yaşar Tanaçan and are spread out over the four rooms. The portico included an exhibition of local photographers.
Dining Hall of the Kurşunlu Complex
The dining hall (imarethane) sits immediately west of the guesthouse. It has a barrel vaulted ceiling and was once used as a wedding venue.
Hot Glass Blowing Studio
The dining hall now hosts a hot glass blowing studio. Just inside the entrance are impressive glass works made by both local and international artists.
Soup Kitchen of the Kurşunlu Complex
Right across from the dining hall is the soup kitchen (aşevi), which contains a chimney on the western wall. The chimney was used as a clock tower from the late 19th century to the 1960s.
Flameworking Studio
Today, the soup kitchen serves as a flameworking studio. We were able to see an artist in action creating glass jewelry. There are also several colorful glass items for sale.
Caravanserai of the Kurşunlu Complex
Finally, the large building north of the soup kitchen is the caravanserai (kervansaray), which was completed after 1529. Just inside the entrance is a scale model of the entire Kurşunlu Complex.
The building features two halls, each with a barrel vaulted ceiling supported by buttresses on both sides and six pillars in the middle. It was divided into 14 sections, each containing a fireplace.
Woodwork Gallery
The caravanserai houses the Woodwork Gallery (Ahşap Eserler Galerisi). It opened on May 25, 2016, and moved to its current location in May 2017. The gallery is open daily except Mondays and admission is 30₺ (as of May 2024).
On display are about 150 pieces of modern wooden art made by both Turkish and international sculptors. They were made for international woodworking festivals held at the gallery. Click here for a virtual tour of the caravanserai.
