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Istiklal Street (İstiklal Caddesi) is a pedestrianized street in the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul. It’s one of the most popular places in the city for both tourists and locals.
Introduction to Istiklal Street
Istiklal street runs for 1.4 kilometers from Taksim Square to Tünel and is lined with shops, restaurants, cafés, museums, theatres, cinemas, libraries, churches, and consulates. Several of the buildings were constructed in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
In this post, I’ll cover several of the historic buildings and points of interest along Istiklal Street starting at its north end at Taksim Square and working my way south to Tünel. Anything on the side streets and back streets I’ll cover in my post about the Taksim area.
History of Istiklal Street
Istiklal translates to Independence in English. In the late 19th century, Istiklal Street was the European district of old Constantinople and was called Grand Avenue in several different languages. In Turkish, it was called Cadde-i Kebir, while in French it was Grande Rue de Péra. The Greeks called it Megali Odos tou Peran (Μεγάλη Οδός του Πέραν).
On September 6 and 7, 1955, Istiklal Street witnessed the anti-Greek Istanbul pogrom. Greek-owned shops and churches were pillaged, tombs were vandalized, women were raped, and cars were wrecked all over the city, but the epicenter was on Istiklal Street. The riots were secretly organized by the Turkish government, who falsely claimed that a Greek had bombed the Turkish consulate in Thessaloniki, Greece, which also happened to be the birthplace of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938). It was a dark period in Turkish history and accelerated the emigration of ethnic Greeks from Turkey.
In the 1970s and 1980s, many of the street’s original inhabitants left. Migrants from rural areas of Anatolia took their place and it became a seedy area full of bars and bordellos.
In the late 1980s and early 1990s, Istiklal Street was renovated and completely pedestrianized. Several historic buildings were restored and new restaurants and shops opened. Its charm and popularity returned and it became a lively destination once again.
French Consulate
Starting at the north end of Istiklal Street, the first building of interest is the French Consulate. Unlike other consulates in Istanbul, this building didn’t serve as an embassy during the Ottoman period. It was built in 1868 by French architect M. Carre on the site of what was originally the French Plague Hospital. The French Embassy was located a bit further away at the French Palace in Tomtom.
The French Consulate has a nice café inside with extra seating in the courtyard. You can enter on the side of the building by going through security and leaving your ID with the guard. (Note: the café has been closed since 2020.)
Taxim Palace
Across the street is Taxim Palace Apartment (Taksim Palas Apartmanı). It was built in the early 20th century by architect Victor Adamandidis (Adaman). The building combines the Neoclassical and Art Nouveau styles.
Old Greek Building
Continuing down Istiklal Street is a remnant of the street’s cosmopolitan past. This building contains a sign above the entrance with the name N. Papadakis in faded Greek. It used to house a Starbucks, but that moved next door. The sign has also changed a bit with the building renovations.
Ragıp Pasha Apartment
Further down Istiklal Street is another interesting building that has always caught my eye. The Ragıp Pasha Apartment (Ragıp Paşa Apartmanı) was built in 1900 by Ragıp Sarıca Pasha in the Art Nouveau style. The architect was Aram Karakaş. It sits on the corner of colorful Imam Adnan Street.
Rumeli Han
On the next block is Rumeli Han. It was built between 1895 and 1900 for Ragıp Sarıca Pasha and is one of the most beautiful buildings on the entire street. It’s a mixed retail, office, and residential building but is currently being converted to a hotel (as of October 2024). The architect is unknown.
Gorgeous stone carvings adorn the entrance to Rumeli Han. Directly above the entrance is an inscription in Ottoman Turkish with the construction date. The building’s name is etched in French on the left (Cité Roumelie) and in Greek (Αγορά Ρωμυλίας) on the right.
Tunnel and Terrace of Rumeli Han
For US$5 (as of October 2023), it’s possible to get a short guided tour of the tunnel under Rumeli Han as well as the terrace. The entrance to the tunnel is at the end of the arcade.
The tunnel was discovered in 2017 while workers excavated to secure the building’s foundation. Several years of debris and garbage were removed to reveal a marble floor and a handful of rooms. The function of the rooms, one which features a tile floor, is unknown, but it’s most likely they were used for storage. There’s a total of 1,400 square meters of space in the tunnels and rooms.
The guide led me to the elevator and also showed me the terrace, which was under construction as part of the hotel project. I was able to see the cupola atop the building as well as some of the ornamental stonework. There are also some great views.
Hüseyin Ağa Mosque
Next to Rumeli Han is the Hüseyin Ağa Mosque (Hüseyin Ağa Camii). It was built in 1594 when the land around it was open countryside. Imagine looking around in every direction and seeing nothing but the mosque and some trees.
If you’re walking by, it’s worth popping inside this small mosque to see the beautiful tiles and stained glass windows. It’s the only mosque found along the entire length of Istiklal Street.
Istiklal Mall
Walking south, the first building on the right after the Hüseyin Ağa Mosque is Istiklal Mall. The building dates back to the beginning of the 20th century and was gutted by a fire in the 1950s. It was completely rebuilt into an office building and passage, and it was purchased by Demirören Holding in 1980. The Palace Cinema operated there from 1996 to 2005. The building was later refurbished from 2006 to 2011 in a controversial project to develop the mall, which many believed corrupted the historic integrity of Istiklal Street.
Alkazar Hall
Across the street is Alkazar Hall. I can’t find any information about the narrow building, but the caryatids at the entrance caught my eye. It currently hosts Hope Alkazar, a creative space sponsored by Nike.
Grand Pera Mall
Next is Grand Pera Mall. The building opened in 1883 and the architect was Alexander Vallaury (1850-1921). As the largest building on Istiklal Street, it hosted one of the first social clubs of the Ottoman Empire, the Cercle d’Orient. A fire gutted the building in 1983 and it sat for years in a dilapidated state. The famous İnci Pastanesi, founded by Lukas Zigoritis in 1944, was once on the ground floor.
The building was refurbished starting May 20, 2013, and reopened as the mall in 2016. Madame Tussauds Istanbul is also located there. İnci Pastanesi relocated a few blocks away.
Greek Consulate
Next to Grand Pera is the Greek Consulate, located in the Sismanoglio Megaro. The building dates back to the late 19th century and was donated to the Greek government by Konstantinos Sismanoglou in 1939. Due to political differences, the consulate wasn’t established in the building until 2003. Several cultural events are scheduled there throughout the year, including art exhibitions, film screenings, and conferences. Consular activities are performed at the Siniosoglou Mansion, which is nearby on Turnacıbaşı Street.
Aleppo Passage
Aleppo Passage (Halep Pasajı) is an arcade next door to the Greek Consulate. It was built in 1885 by M. Haccas from Aleppo, Syria. The arcade features a cinema and shops selling several different goods and souvenirs. It was also known as Cité d’Alep in French, and has an inscription in French and Ottoman Turkish above the entrance.
Anadolu Han
Across the street from the Greek Consulate is Anadolu Han. It was built in 1890 by Ragıp Sarıca Pasha. The ground floor used to contain a passage but it has since been converted into one large retail space.
Atlas Passage
Next door is Atlas Passage (Atlas Pasajı). It was built by Ottoman Armenian businessman Agop Köçeyan in 1870 as his personal residence. Köçeyan donated the building to the Vosgeperan Armenian Catholic Church before his death. During the occupation of Constantinople, the building served as a court for British forces from 1918 to 1922 and later as a post office.
Atlas Passage was renovated in 1932 and became an art center. In 1948, it was renovated once again and reopened as the Atlas Cinema (Atlas Sineması), which still operates. The building underwent a major restoration between 2019 and 2021. Several stores occupy the arcade along with the Istanbul Cinema Museum.
Tokatlıyan Business Center
The next interesting building on Istiklal Street is Tokatlıyan Business Center (Tokatlıyan İş Hanı). It opened in 1909 as the Tokatlıyan Hotel (Tokatlıyan Oteli) by Ottoman Armenian restaurateur Mıgırdıç Tokatlıyan. The hotel was the biggest rival to the luxurious Pera Palace Hotel nearby and hosted several celebrities throughout the years, including Leon Trotsky and Josephine Baker. It had 160 rooms along with an elevator and central heating. In 1947, the hotel changed hands and became the Konak Hotel, which led to a drop in its popularity. In 1958, it was converted into a business and retail center.
Örs Touristic Business Center
Across the street is the Örs Touristic Business Center (Örs Turistik İş Merkezi), which was built by the Ottoman Armenian Esayan family in the late 19th century. With its beautiful stonework on the façade, it’s one of the most attractive buildings on Istiklal Street.
Güney Palace
Next door is the Güney Palace (Güney Palas). It opened in December 1900 and was sold to Ottoman Grand Vizier Mehmet Said Pasha (1838-1914). It changed ownership a few times over the years and was famous for the glamorous parties held by its residents. The ground floor is retail space while the upper floors are occupied by Mr. CAS Hotel. There’s a lounge and restaurant on the top floor.
Flower Passage (Çiçek Pasajı)
Directly across from Güney Palace is Flower Passage (Çiçek Pasajı), which is one of the most iconic arcades in Istanbul.
Flower Passage was built on the site once occupied by the Naum Theatre, which was built in 1844 and destroyed by fire in 1870. The theatre was frequented by Sultans Abdülaziz and Abdülhamid II. It hosted Il Trovatore by Giuseppe Verdi (1813-1901) long before the opera houses of Paris, and featured operas composed mostly by Gaetano Donizetti (1797-1848), Gioachino Rossini (1792-1868), and Vincenzo Bellini.
Ottoman Greek banker Christakis Zografos (1820-1898) purchased the charred building after the fire. He constructed the current building, which opened in 1876, with architect Kleanthis Zannos.
The building featured 24 shops designed in a Parisian style as well as 18 luxury apartments. The arcade containing the shops was called Hristaki Passage (Hristaki Pasajı) while the apartments above were called Cité de Péra.
In 1908, Ottoman Grand Vizier Mehmet Said Pasha (1838-1914) purchased the building and renamed it Said Pasha Passage (Sait Paşa Pasajı). After the Russian Revolution in 1917, noble Russian women fleeing their country began to sell flowers in the building, giving it its present name.
By the 1940s, Flower Passage was occupied mostly by pubs. It was renovated in 1988 and again in 2005, and today is full of pubs and restaurants. It also connects with the Beyoğlu Fish Market on Sahne Street.
Galatasaray Square
Galatasaray Square (Galatasaray Meydanı) sits at the midpoint of Istiklal Street between Taksim Square and Tünel. There are a few interesting buildings on the square.
Galatasaray High School
The most important building on Galatasaray Square is Galatasaray High School (Galatasaray Lisesi), which sits behind tall iron gates. The second oldest educational institution and the oldest high school in the country, it was founded in 1481 by Sultan Bayezid II. It’s one of the most prestigious schools in Turkey. Galatasaray sports club was founded at and named after the school.
Although the school has operated on the site since its foundation, the buildings took their present shape in 1868 during the reign of Abdülaziz. Galatasaray High School was originally male-only and didn’t become co-ed until 1965. The curriculum is mostly in French and the academic program takes five years to complete.
Galatasaray Post Office
Across the street is the former Galatasaray Post Office (Galatasaray Postanesi). It was built in 1875 by Ottoman Armenian architect Theodor Sıvacıyan and purchased by the Post Office and Telegram Ministry in 1907. For a short time, BBC, German Telegraph Companies, and Istanbul Radio occupied the building.
The post office completely burned down in 1977 and the building was restored in 1998. The ground floor contains a small philatelic museum and a history of the building in Turkish.
Galatasaray Museum
On the upper floors is the Galatasaray Museum (Galatasaray Müzesi), where you can learn about the Galatasaray Sports Club (Galatasaray Spor Kulübü) and Galatasaray High School. The museum is open daily except Mondays from 10am to 6pm. Admission is free (as of October 2024), but everything is in Turkish.
Galatasaray Sports Club
The Galatasaray Museum begins on the second floor, where visitors learn about the history of the sports club. The club was founded on October 30, 1905, by Ali Sami Yen (1886-1951) and other students of the high school.
On display are trophies, photos, and artifacts related to all sports practiced at the club. Wax figures of Yen and Turkish football legend Metin Oktay (1936-1991) are among the most prominent items.
Galatasaray High School
Moving down to the first floor, there are a few rooms chronicling the history of the high school. On display are old diplomas, paintings, documents, and other items of interest.
A small section includes the influence of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk on the school. Of particular interest is an unwashed coffee cup used by Atatürk during his second visit to the school on December 28, 1932.
I was personally interested to see documents from the school in Greek and Armenian as well as in Ottoman Turkish and French. Diplomas were once granted in French and Ottoman Turkish.
Beyoğlu Han
To the right of the old post office is Beyoğlu Han, which I can’t find any information about. There used to be a café on the upper floors I always enjoyed visiting with friends. It features impressive stonework on the façade.
Yapı Kredi Cultural Center
Finally, across Yeni Çarşı Street is the Yapı Kredi Cultural Center (Yapı Kredi Kültür Sanat). The cultural center presents over 250 cultural events throughout the year as well as various temporary exhibitions ranging from photography to archaeology. There are also workshops and discussions. It’s open daily and admission is free (as of October 2024).
Bookstore
The ground floor contains an attractive Turkish bookstore. To get to the upper floors, you need to pass through security to the left of the bookstore.
Exhibition Space
On the first through third levels of the Yapı Kredi Cultural Center, you’ll find temporary exhibition space. During my visit, on the first level there was a timeline of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk’s visits to Istanbul. It was filled with photos, newspaper clippings, and information of Atatürk’s activities during the visits.
The second and third level contained creative sculptures by Turkish artist Halil Altındere, who’s originally from Mardin. The entertaining exhibit featured mostly stationary wax figures, but there were also mechanical pieces as well.
Akdeniz
Walking up the stairs to the upper floors, there’s a great view of Galatasaray Square as well as a sculpture, Akdeniz, by Turkish sculptor İlhan Koman (1921-1986). The sculpture was made of iron between 1978 and 1980.
Aznavur Passage
The first building of interest walking south past Galatasaray Square is Aznavur Passage (Aznavur Pasajı), which was built by the Ottoman Armenian Aznavur family in the early 20th century. In the past, the Aznavur family lived on the upper floors. Today, several small shops occupy the arcade selling accessories, jewelry, clothing, and other goods.
Hazzopulo Passage
A couple doors down is Hazzopulo Passage (Hazzopulo Pasajı). It was built between the 1850s and 1871 but nobody is sure exactly who built it. Prominent Greeks named Hatzopoulos included a trader, a tailor, and two bankers. Armenian-Turkish photographer Ara Güler’s (1928-2018) father owned a pharmacy in the passage.
The entrance from Istiklal Street is a narrow passage lined with shops, many selling jewelry and accessories. It opens to a nice courtyard full of cafés.
Panagia Isodion Church
An alley off Hazzopulo Passage leads to Panagia Isodion Church (Meryem Ana Kilisesi). This Greek Orthodox church was built in 1804.
Visiting hours posted on the property state that it’s open daily from 8:30am to 6pm, but it has never been open the numerous times I’ve passed by. I’ve only been able to visit the narthex to light a candle.
If you do get into the narthex and the church isn’t open, take a peek through the keyhole. You’ll see the beautiful nave with a gold iconostasis.
Egypt Apartment (Mısır Apartmanı)
Further down Istiklal Street towards Tünel is the Egypt Apartment (Mısır Apartmanı), which is one of the most beautiful buildings in the city. It was built between 1905 and 1910 by Ottoman Armenian architect Hovsep Aznavur (1854-1935) and is one of the best examples of Art Nouveau architecture in Istanbul.
The building served as the winter home of Abbas II (1874-1944), the last Khedive of Egypt, and was later converted into several private apartments. Mehmet Akif Ersoy (1873-1936), poet and author of the Turkish National Anthem (İstiklal Marşı), lived the last six months of his life there. He died in the Egypt Apartment on December 27, 1936. Today, it hosts art galleries, a museum, and a restaurant on the top floor.
Mehmet Akif Ersoy Memorial House
The Mehmet Akif Ersoy Memorial House (Mehmet Akif Ersoy Hatıra Evi) occupies the 3rd floor apartment in which the poet lived. It’s open daily and admission is free (as of October 2024).
Almost all of the information in the museum is in Turkish, but there are several artifacts on display that can tell Ersoy’s story without words. The main hall starts with a timeline of his life. On either side of the hall are two theaters. One projects a biography of Ersoy while another contains his poetry.
The museum continues with the first room on the left detailing Ersoy’s youth and years up until the Turkish War of Independence. It contains personal letters, photographs, and a detailed biography.
The room is connected to a small room displaying the Turkish National Anthem in both Ottoman Turkish and modern Turkish script, and the anthem playing on a loop.
The second room deals with Ersoy’s final years and legacy. On display are personal items such as his glasses and pocket watch, books he wrote, and more. There’s also a brief history of the Egypt Apartment on one wall.
In the center of the second room is a glass display case with paper bills and coins minted in Ersoy’s honor. Stamps containing his likeness are also included.
St. Antoine Church
The Egypt Apartment sits next to the entrance to St. Antoine Church (Sent Antuan Kilisesi / Basilica di Sant’Antonio di Padova), which is the largest Catholic church in the city. The church is run by Italian priests and is open daily to visitors. Mass is held in Italian, Turkish, English, and Polish.
St. Antoine Church was built between 1906 and 1912 in the Venetian style by Italian architect Giulio Mongeri. It mostly served the Italian community of the city, which numbered around 40,000 at the beginning of the 20th century. They were of mostly Genoese and Venetian descent. The original church on the site was built in 1725.
Pope John XXIII served at St. Antoine Church from 1934 to 1944 before being elected pope in 1958. He was the Vatican ambassador to Turkey and spoke fluent Turkish. A statue of the pope dedicated in 2006 sits near the entrance.
Features of St. Antoine Church
Above the entrance is a lunette depicting the Madonna between Saints Francis of Assisi and Anthony of Padua.
The nave of the church has a Latin cross plan. The nave is illuminated by stained glass windows. The altar is made of marble and has wooden stalls behind it.
An organ constructed in 1947 sits above the entrance. In the aisles are a few chapels.
St. Antoine Apartments
The apartments facing Istiklal Street were built at the same time as the church in order to generate income. The proceeds of the St. Antoine Apartments (St. Antoine Apartmanları) contributed to the upkeep of the church.
They consist of two identical six story blocks connected by passages on the ground and second level. The apartments were the first reinforced concrete buildings in Beyoğlu.
Alhambra Han
Across from the church is Alhambra Han (Elhamra Han). It was built by Şerif Adapazarlı between 1920 and 1922 and the architect is unknown. The building contains Ottoman, Seljuk, and Greek architectural elements. In the past, the Crystal Theatre (Kristal Tiyatro) stood on the site.
SALT Beyoğlu
A bit further down across the street is SALT Beyoğlu, the sister branch of SALT Galata. It contains modern art exhibitions related to critical contemporary issues. It’s open daily except Mondays and admission is free (as of October 2024).
The building was built between 1850 and 1860 as the Siniossoglou Apartment. It was a residential building with retail space on the ground floor until the 1950s. After that, it was used mostly for retail, political, and artistic purposes.
Odakule
The stretch of elegant historic buildings on Istiklal Street is broken by Odakule, which looks completely out of place. This 23-story glass office building was built in 1976 and was the fourth tallest building in Istanbul upon completion. The architects were Kaya Tecimen and Ali Taner. It also faces Meşrutiyet Street in Tepebaşı.
Beyoğlu Anatolian High School
Directly across from Odakule is the Beyoğlu Anatolian High School (Beyoğlu Anadolu Lisesi), which was built in 1901. It was originally the home of the Viscount Stratford de Redcliffe School, which was founded in 1858 to provide education for children of the British Embassy staff. The old building was donated to the school by Sultan Abdülmecid I. The school was closed for six years when the Ottoman-Russian War began in 1877, and again during World War I. It became the Beyoğlu Anatolian High School in 1979.
Baudouy Apartment
Back across the street is the attractive Baudouy Apartment, also known as the Bodvi Apartment (Bodvi Apartmanı). It was built between 1905 and 1909 and served as a residential and office building. Between 1953 and 2016, it was the Beyoğlu branch of İş Bank. The building currently hosts the İş Bank Painting and Sculpture Museum (Türkiye İş Bankası Resim Heykel Müzesi). It’s open daily except Mondays and admission for foreign adults is 100₺, 40₺ for foreigners over 65, and free for kids under 12 (as of October 2024). I’ll update with more info as soon as I have a chance to visit.
Surp Yerrortutyun Armenian Catholic Church
Out of plain sight in an alley between Odakule and the Baudouy Apartment is Surp Yerrortutyun Armenian Catholic Church (Surp Yerrortutyun Ermeni Katolik Kilisesi). It was originally built in the beginning of the 18th century by four Austrian priests. The church served as the city’s Latin Catholic cathedral from 1802 to 1854. It burned down in 1762 and 1831 and was rebuilt both times. It was purchased by Armenian Catholics on May 25, 1857.
Casa Garibaldi
Hidden behind the entrance to the Armenian church is Casa Garibaldi, which was built in 1884 by French-Ottoman architect Alexander Vallaury (1850-1921). It became the home of the Italian Workers Society of Mutual Aid in Constantinople (Societa Operaia Italiana di Mutuo Soccorso in Costantinopoli), which was founded in 1863. This Italian building underwent an extensive renovation and reopened as a cultural venue in late 2018.
Casa Garibaldi is typically open from Thursday to Sunday. When I attempted to enter, I was rudely shooed away by a woman working there who told me “there’s nothing to see”.
Netherlands Palace
The next interesting building is the Netherlands Palace (Hollanda Sarayı), which houses the Dutch Consulate. Dutch diplomatic representation has been located on the site since 1714. The current building was built in 1859 by Italian architect Giovanni Battista Barborini as the Dutch Embassy. The complex is behind a huge iron gate and hidden by other buildings. It also contains a chapel used by the Union Church of Istanbul.
Ravouna Building
Nearby at 201 Istiklal Street is the Ravouna Building (Ravouna Βinası), which is a narrow building built as a residence for the Italian Ravouna family. It’s considered one of the two best preserved Art Nouveau buildings along the entire street.
The Ravouna Building was designed in 1894 by Ottoman Greek architect Constantinos P. Kyriakides (1881-1942) and constructed between 1901 and 1906 by the Italian entrepreneurs G. & Alf. Michelini. Alexandre D. Yenidunia, another Ottoman Greek architect, designed the wooden interior. It underwent an extensive restoration in 2011. The building now hosts a boutique hotel, the Ravouna 1906 Suites, as well as a coffee bar.
Esen Apartment
Attached to the Ravouna Building is the Esen Apartment (Esen Apartmanı). The building was constructed at the end of the 19th century. It appears on maps in 1906 as the Kutukian Apartment (Kutukian Apartmanı). The name changed to the Izzet Bey Apartment (İzzet Bey Apartmanı) around 1932 and then Başak Han. The façade features arched and circular stained glass windows, ornamental ironwork, and a French balcony.
156 Istiklal Street
A bit further down is 156 Istiklal Street, which is one of a handful of buildings along this stretch of the street for which I don’t have any information.
Istanbul Bar Association
Attached to the 156 Istiklal Street is a building that hosts the Istanbul Bar Association (İstanbul Barosu). It’s a Neoclassical building that was demolished and rebuilt to make it more resistant to earthquakes. I can’t find any information on the original building.
Meşher
Across the street is 211 Istiklal Street, which hosts art exhibition space Meşher. The building was once known as the Friedmann Apartments and later Meymaret Han. The architect may have been Petraki Mimaridis, but the construction date is unknown.
The entrance to Meşher is just down Postacılar Street, which leads down to Tomtom Kaptan Street. Admission is free (as of October 2024) and it’s open daily except Mondays from 11am to 7pm. Arter, a modern art museum, occupied the building from 2010 to 2018 until it moved to a much larger modern building in Dolapdere in September 2019.
Istanbul as Far as the Eye Can See
On my first visit to Meşher, the exhibition was Istanbul as Far as the Eye Can See: Views Across Five Centuries. It ran from September 20, 2023, to September 29, 2024 and featured over 100 rare works from the Ömer Koç Collection showing Istanbul through Western eyes.
The collection spanned 500 years from the 15th century through the 1st quarter of the 20th century. It included paintings, engravings, maps, books, photographs, souvenirs, and other works. The artists came from diverse backgrounds such as ambassadors, travelers, ship captains, writers, architects, and soldiers. Quotes on the walls accompanied the works.
According to the official website, “Rather than being yet another ode to the city, the exhibition encourages reflection on the diversity of its narratives and the differences in its many depictions”.
Selected Works from the Exhibition
![A Series of Eight Views, forming a Panorama of the Celebrated City of Constantinople, And its Environs, taken from the town [i.e. Tower] of Galata; London: Thomas Palser and Henry Aston Barker, 1813, first edition; Henry Aston Barker (1774-1856); 8 plates etched by C. Tomkins and aquatinted by F.C. & G. Lewis after drawings by Barker in Istanbul as Far as the Eye Can See at Meşher](data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciIHZpZXdCb3g9IjAgMCAxNjAwIDExNjkiIHdpZHRoPSIxNjAwIiBoZWlnaHQ9IjExNjkiIGRhdGEtdT0iaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZub21hZGljbmlrby5jb20lMkZ3cC1jb250ZW50JTJGdXBsb2FkcyUyRjIwMTglMkYxMCUyRklNR18yNDM3LTIuanBlZyIgZGF0YS13PSIxNjAwIiBkYXRhLWg9IjExNjkiIGRhdGEtYmlwPSIiPjwvc3ZnPg==)
![Combined image of A Series of Eight Views, forming a Panorama of the Celebrated City of Constantinople, And its Environs, taken from the town [i.e. Tower] of Galata; London: Thomas Palser and Henry Aston Barker, 1813, first edition; Henry Aston Barker (1774-1856); 8 plates etched by C. Tomkins and aquatinted by F.C. & G. Lewis after drawings by Barker in Istanbul as Far as the Eye Can See at Meşher](data:image/svg+xml;base64,PHN2ZyB4bWxucz0iaHR0cDovL3d3dy53My5vcmcvMjAwMC9zdmciIHZpZXdCb3g9IjAgMCAxNjAwIDQ1NiIgd2lkdGg9IjE2MDAiIGhlaWdodD0iNDU2IiBkYXRhLXU9Imh0dHBzJTNBJTJGJTJGbm9tYWRpY25pa28uY29tJTJGd3AtY29udGVudCUyRnVwbG9hZHMlMkYyMDE4JTJGMTAlMkZJTUdfMjQzNS0xLmpwZWciIGRhdGEtdz0iMTYwMCIgZGF0YS1oPSI0NTYiIGRhdGEtYmlwPSIiPjwvc3ZnPg==)
Union Church of Istanbul
A few steps further down Postacılar Street is the entrance to the Dutch Chapel, which is used by the Union Church of Istanbul. The chapel was built in 1711 and has been used by the Union Church since 1857. Interdenominational services are held every Sunday at 9:30am and 11am.
Santa Maria Draperis Church
Back up to Istiklal Street, a few steps from Meşher is the entrance to Santa Maria Draperis Church (Meryem Ana Draperis Latin Katolik Kilisesi), which has a fascinating history. The church was founded by Venetian merchants a few months before the Fall of Constantinople in 1453. It was called the Church of St. Anthony of the Cypresses (Sant’Antonio dei Cipressi) and stood in what is now the Sirkeci area. Franciscan friars had just completed the building but were forced to abandon it.
In 1584, Clara Maria Draperis endowed them a house with a chapel in Galata. It contained a wooden icon of the Virgin Mary. The chapel burned down in 1660, and the friars built another church. Unfortunately, it lacked the permission of the sultan, and it was demolished in 1663.
The friars received permission to build a new church on what is now Istiklal Street, completing it in 1678. That church burned down in 1697, was rebuilt, destroyed by an earthquake in 1727, rebuilt again, and burned down again in 1767. Each time the church was destroyed, the wooden icon was rescued and adorned the altar of the next church. You can see the icon atop the altar of the current church, which was built in 1769.
Mass is celebrated every Sunday at various times throughout the day and in several different languages including English, Spanish, Korean, and Italian. Stop into the church for the most up-to-date schedule.
Features of Santa Maria Draperis Church
The entrance to the complex can be easy to miss. It has a niche decorated with a statue of the Virgin. A flight of steps leads down to the church.
The nave of Santa Maria Draperis was decorated in 1874. The altar is made of pink Carrara marble and dates back to 1772. The wooden icon rescued from the previous churches adorns the altar. Two stained glass windows in the apse depict St. Francis and St. Clare of Assisi.
There are several inscriptions dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. They’re mostly dedicated to wealthy Italian families and church benefactors.
Borusan Sanat
Across the street is Borusan Sanat. It contains a concert hall and exhibition space, focusing on music and visual arts. Information about event tickets is available on the website.
Syria Passage
A few steps down the street is Syria Passage (Suriye Pasajı). It was built between 1901 and 1908 by Ottoman Greek architect Dimitri Vassiliadis as three separate buildings that were later connected. The lower floors are used for retail while the upper floors are apartments. Above the entrance is an inscription of the building’s name in French, Cité de Syrie.
The local Greek newspaper, Apoyevmatini (Απογευματινή), was published in the building from July 1925 to October 2014. The French newspaper, Stamboul, was printed there between 1875 and 1964. It also held a cinema, Cine Central (Santral Sineması), starting in 1911.
Russian Consulate
A few steps away are the gates of the Russian Consulate. It was built between 1838 and 1845 as the Russian Embassy. The Fossati brothers were sent to Constantinople by Tsar Nicholas I as the architects of the building. Their success led to more projects in the city, and they were eventually appointed by Sultan Abdülmecid I to renovate Hagia Sophia in 1847.
Oriental Passage
Opposite the Russian Consulate is Oriental Passage (Passage Oriental), which was originally built in 1840 and was one of the most elegant arcades on Istiklal Street. It was also known as the Marquise Passage (Markiz Pasajı).
The building was once home to elegant pastry shops Lebon Pastanesi from the 1850s to 1940, and Markiz Pastanesi from 1940 to 1970. If you peek inside the window, you can still see some of the grandeur of the old Markiz Pastanesi. Lebon has since relocated a few doors away.
Hidivyal Palace
On the next corner across the street is the Hidivyal Palace (Hidivyal Palas), which was built in the early 1900s. It stands on the site of the former Hotel d’Anglaterre, which first opened in 1841. It was the first traditional hotel in the Ottoman Empire. The Hotel d’Anglaterre was the best hotel in Constantinople for over 50 years until the Pera Palace and Grand Hotel de Londres opened. It ceased operations in 1897 and the building was demolished.
Casa Botter
Nearby is Casa Botter, which was commissioned in 1901 by Jean Botter, the Dutch personal tailor to Sultan Abdülhamid II. It’s a stunning Art Nouveau building by Italian architect Raimondo D’Aronco (1857-1932).
Botter used the building as his winter home and workshop and he had a summer home in Kalamış. The building was the second in Constantinople to feature an elevator, after the Pera Palace Hotel.
Casa Botter was in a dilapidated state for a long time, but the building underwent an extensive renovation and finally opened its doors to the public on April 14, 2023.
The ground floor now hosts an exhibition hall while the first floor is a public workspace run by the city. It’s open daily except Mondays from 10am to 7pm and admission is free (as of October 2024).
Swedish Palace
The Swedish Consulate sits in the Swedish Palace (İsveç Sarayı), just past Casa Botter and behind a fence. It was built in 1870 by Austrian architect Domenico Pulgher as the Swedish Embassy. The land was purchased in 1757 and is Sweden’s oldest state property abroad. The upper floor is used as the private residence of the Consul General. A Protestant chapel built in 1858 is also on the grounds.
Narmanlı Han
Finally, opposite the Swedish Palace is Narmanlı Han. It was built in 1831 to house the Russian Embassy and then a Russian prison until 1914. In the center is a large courtyard.
When I first moved to Istanbul in 2010, the building was in terrible condition. It was renovated between February 2016 and September 2017, and the work was heavily criticized.
The courtyard of Narmanlı Han contains a Starbucks and the Museum of Illusions as well as other retail space and restaurants. A fountain now sits in the middle as well.
Museum of Illusions
The Museum of Illusions is a tourist trap but it can be a fun place to kill time and take some trick photos. Admission to the museum is 590₺ for adults, 490₺ for kids age 5-18, and free for kids under 5 (as of October 2024). It’s open daily.
There are a several optical illusions along the walls but the trick photo scenes are the real attractions. It’s best to go in a group of more than two, but friendly staff members are on hand to take photos if necessary.
Tarik Zafer Tunaya Cultural Center
A few steps down the street next to the Swedish Palace is the Tarik Zafer Tunaya Cultural Center (Tarık Zafer Tunaya Kültür Merkezi). It’s housed in the former marriage office, which functioned there until 1993 and served as a cultural center from 1993 to 2017. The Tarik Zafer Tunaya Cultural Center contains exhibition halls, a theatre, and film screening room. It’s typically open daily.
Tünel Passage Office Building
The Tünel Passage Office Building (Tünel Geçidi İş Hanı), which contains a beautiful arcade lined with restaurants, sits opposite Tünel. The exact construction date of the building is unknown, but it’s through to have been built between 1883 and 1885.
3 Galip Dede Street
The final building of note faces Istiklal Street but has an address on Galip Dede Street. I can’t find any information about it other than the fact it was built in 1882. It sits to the left of Tünel.
Around the South End of Istiklal Street
At the south end of Istiklal Street is Tünel. The Galata Mevlevi Lodge Museum is just past the end of Istiklal Street on the left and Galata Tower is further downhill in Galata. Şişhane is downhill to the west.
