Jerusalem is perhaps the most hotly contested city in the world, important to Jews, Muslims, and Christians. There’s an endless amount of things to see and do for all interests.
My Posts on Jerusalem
Old City:
Areas:
Attractions:
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- Church of the Holy Sepulchre (Christian Quarter)
- Greek Orthodox Patriarchate of Jerusalem (Christian Quarter)
- Ramparts Walk: Southern Route (Armenian and Jewish Quarters)
- Via Dolorosa (Muslim and Christian Quarters)
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Other Areas:
Introduction to Jerusalem
Jerusalem is a fascinating city with countless attractions for all interests and religious sites important to Jews, Christians, and Muslims. It could take a lifetime to discover everything and even longer to understand.
During the long history of Jerusalem, it has been under siege 23 times, captured and recaptured 44 times, and attacked 52 times. It’s the holiest city in Judaism and Christianity and the third holiest in Islam. It’s also at the heart of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, as both sides claim the city as their capital.
Yet between all the controversy and differences, there’s an incredible feeling being in this city with thousands of years of history. It’s a place that can often feel chaotic and full of tension but that shouldn’t put you off from visiting. Everyone should go there once in their lifetime if not just for the experience.
Getting to Jerusalem
If you aren’t on a tour or renting a car, there are a couple options on how to get to Jerusalem.
Ben Gurion Airport
Jerusalem is served by Ben Gurion Airport, about 50 kilometers (31 miles) on the way to Tel Aviv. The Tel Aviv-Jerusalem Railway provides direct access to the city from the airport.
Navon Railway Station
The main train station in Jerusalem is Jerusalem-Yitzhak Navon Railway Station. It’s located on Jaffa Road. As of May 2024, high speed trains run only to Ben Gurion Airport and on to Tel Aviv. Eventually, high speed trains will connect Jerusalem to northern Israel. It’s possible to connect to other cities on regular trains via Tel Aviv. Trains are operated by Israel Railways.
Jerusalem Central Bus Station
Jerusalem Central Bus Station is across the street from the railway station. It’s one of the busiest bus stations in the county, with service to cities such as Tel Aviv, Haifa, Tiberias, Be’er Sheva, Lod, and Petah Tikva.
Getting Around Jerusalem
Jerusalem is fairly easy to get around using public and private transportation. We mostly got around on foot since the majority of sites we visited were within the walls of the Old City. Anywhere outside the Old City, we usually had a tour bus previously arranged.
Jerusalem Light Rail
We used the Jerusalem Light Rail a couple times after our tour finished. The Red Line, which is currently the only line in operation, runs along Jaffa Road. The nearest stops to the Old City are City Hall and Damascus Gate. You can purchase a ticket from automatic Cfir kiosks at each station. Single rides cost ₪5.5 (as of May 2024). There are also unlimited daily and weekly passes. Tickets must be validated upon boarding the train.
The light rail is also convenient for visitors arriving in Jerusalem via train or bus, with the Central Station stop located between the train and bus stations.
Taxis in Jerusalem
We only took a few taxis. Once was to change hotels in the middle of the trip and the other times to get from the Old City to our hotel. It felt it was quite expensive.
Where to Stay in Jerusalem
Jerusalem has hotels catering to every budget and class. During my two trips to the city, I’ve stayed at three different places.
Grand Court Hotel
The best place I’ve stayed in Jerusalem is the Grand Court Hotel. We spent five nights there with a large pilgrimage group. The hotel is about a 20 minute walk from the Old City and is perfect for large groups.
The Grand Court Hotel has quiet and comfortable rooms, but some minor details could use upgrades. I was able to get a good night of sleep, the air conditioning was good, and I liked the water pressure in the shower.
The hotel has a huge dining room and buffet. I was a little worried about the food but it was delicious and there was a nice variety every night. The only thing I didn’t like was the dessert table. Everything looked good but most of them tasted like cardboard.
Prima Royale Hotel
On our first trip we spent five nights at the Prima Royale Hotel, which is about a 20 minute walk to the Jaffa Gate. It was not a good experience for us our the rest of our group. I can say with confidence it’s not worth staying there at all.
First of all, service was downright rude. When one group member realized there was no complimentary bottle of water in his room, he called the front desk who responded with “I don’t care”. That’s one of many incidents.
Next, the room was nothing like the photos. Everything looked nice on the surface but digging a little deeper it seemed like the room was falling apart. Most of our guests complained their room wasn’t properly cleaned and there were hairs on the fresh towels.
Finally, the food was inedible. Dinner and breakfast were included in our group package and it seemed the quality of food got worse every day. We would have been better off finding a restaurant, but during Yom Kippur and Sukkot, everything nearby was closed. The best thing about the hotel was the rooftop terrace. It was a great place to wind down, especially in the evenings, and there were nice views of the city.
NHE Machne Yehuda Apartments
After the Prima Royale, Marisol and I stayed three nights at NHE Machne Yehuda Apartments. It’s located on Jaffa Road between Davidka Square and the Mahane Yehuda Market.
It was a little difficult to check in because we didn’t have a cell phone to contact reception, but we eventually got in and the experience was fine from there. Staff was friendly and helpful, and we even got an upgraded room for one night because our original room was still occupied.
It wasn’t the cleanest place to stay, but for the price it was comfortable and the kitchenette came in handy. The fantastic location was a big plus, with a light rail station and a good selection of restaurants just a few steps away.
Where to Eat in Jerusalem
Jerusalem has plenty of restaurants for all tastes and budgets. Meals were included at our hotels during group tours, but we managed to try a few restaurants for lunch and on our extra days.
Armenian Tavern
The best meal we had in Jerusalem was at Armenian Tavern. It’s located in the Armenian Quarter of the Old City.
The restaurant is located in a Crusader-era building and has a great atmosphere, with lanterns hanging from the ceiling and all kinds of interesting decorations.
Marisol had a simple vegetable soup while I tried the khaghoghli derev (yogurt stew with minced lamb in grape leaves). I washed it down with a Taybeh beer and had choorch for dessert. The meal was reasonably priced for the quality.
Lebanese Restaurant
For our first lunch in Jerusalem, we tried Lebanese Restaurant. It’s located in the Christian Quarter of the Old City along the Via Dolorosa.
The owner gave us a good deal on a combo featuring shawarma, fries, and a Coke. Our fellow travelers ordered off the menu and got ripped off. The food is good, but make sure you agree to a price before you order.
Al Tanour
We had another shawarma at Al Tanour, which is just inside the Jaffa Gate in the Christian Quarter of the Old City. Prices were fair and the food was good, but on my first visit service wasn’t all that friendly. Things improved on another visit a few years later.
Karma
While visiting Ein Karem, we stopped into Karma. The menu has a great selection of pastas, pizzas, sandwiches, seafood, and salads. Service is friendly and efficient.
We shared a focaccia and each had a pasta dish. Our meals were very good and we were happy with everything. We’d definitely go back again.
Wok Market (Permanently Closed)
At the Mahane Yehuda Market, we had dinner at Wok Market. Service was decent although the restaurant was completely empty.
I had phad thai while Marisol had a soup. Both of our meals tasted great and prices were fair. We didn’t have a chance to try the sushi.
Aroma Espresso Bar
We stopped into a jam-packed Aroma Espresso Bar at the Mahane Yehuda Market for breakfast one morning. We had to wait a few minutes but it was worth it. Both of us had eggs on toast with a fresh salad and a smoothie. Aroma is an Israeli chain with branches all over Israel and several in the US, Ukraine, and Canada.
Avoiding Rip-Offs in Jerusalem
Jerusalem is an expensive city to begin with, but some vendors go out of their way to rip off tourists. We had bad experiences with simple tasks like buying a bottle of water or having lunch. One vendor charged a fair price for a bottle of water while the one next door wanted triple. A member of our group was charged double the price we paid for a salad and a falafel at the same restaurant. It’s best to confirm prices before you buy, and if something seems too expensive, shop around. While shopping at souvenir shops, don’t forget to bargain!
Tour Operators in Jerusalem
On our first trip, we tacked on a few extra days to explore the West Bank and Israel on some guided tours. We had a couple great experiences and one that wasn’t so good.
Abraham Tours
If you’re looking for a reputable tour operator, we highly recommend Abraham Tours. We took two thought-provoking tours into the West Bank, visiting Hebron on one day and Jenin and Nablus on another day. There are also walking tours of Jerusalem; day trips to other parts of Israel and Palestine, including the Dead Sea; and multi-day tours of Israel, Jordan, and Egypt. Their offices are at the Abraham Hostel on Davidka Square.
Tourist Israel & Bein Harim Tours – AVOID
We do NOT recommend Tourist Israel or Bein Harim Tours. This was a complete disaster and mass tourism at its worst. We were picked up from Jerusalem and transferred to Tel Aviv for a tour of Caesarea, Haifa, Rosh Hanikra, and Acre, and for the high price it was a complete waste of time and money.
Tourist Israel picked us up and had us change buses in a park in Tel Aviv, where Bein Harim Tours took over. The guide was an idiot, we literally had 15 minutes in both Haifa and Acre, and did nothing listed on the itinerary for Acre. The saving grace was Rosh Hanikra.
To top it off, we were supposed to be dropped off at our hotel in Tel Aviv, but the guide left us a kilometer away and pointed us in the wrong direction. Nobody we asked knew where to find the hotel. Thankfully, a friendly local saw us stranded with our bags, found the hotel on Google Maps, and drove us there in three minutes. Without him, we would have been completely lost.
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