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Magical Mompox, officially Santa Cruz de Mompox, is a place that seems to jump off the pages of a Gabriel García Márquez novel. It’s off the beaten path but well worth the effort to get to.
We spent a few nights in Mompox, giving us two full days to take in the colonial town’s relaxed atmosphere. This UNESCO World Heritage site and Colombian Heritage Town (Pueblo Patrimonio) didn’t disappoint.
History
Mompox was founded on May 3, 1537, by Spanish conquistador Alonso de Heredia, brother of Pedro de Heredia, the founder of Cartagena. The town prospered as a port for the transportation of gold and other goods up the Magdalena River. It later became one of the most important towns during the Colombian struggle for independence from Spain. Liberator Simón Bolívar once said:
If to Caracas I owe my life, then to Mompox I owe my glory.
Getting There
Getting there is an adventure in itself. Although it’s not as difficult as some people make it seem, it is time consuming and may take some extra planning.
Driving
We drove from Coveñas, which would more or less take the same route as someone coming from Cartagena or Barranquilla. This involved stopping in Magangué and taking a car ferry from Yatí to La Bodega across the Magdalena River before continuing along the road to Mompox. With the construction of two bridges over the river, the journey will become much easier in the future. (Note: The bridges opened to traffic in March 2020.)
If coming from Santa Marta, Bogotá, or Bucaramanga, there are no ferry crossings, but the road as you approach Mompox is in an abysmal state. Potholes the size of swimming pools will take a toll on both passengers and drivers.
Bus
Bus passengers from Cartagena or Barranquilla will take a similar route. At Magangué, you have to board a chalupa and continue by bus once arriving at La Bodega. Some buses will cross on the ferry, making the trip a lot easier.
There are a few direct bus services from Bogotá and Bucaramanga. Santa Marta seems a bit trickier, with locals telling me there’s a change to a taxi or minibus somewhere near Mompox.
Shared car service
There are shared car services from Cartagena, Barranquilla, and Santa Marta. They’ll pick you up at your hotel in those cities and drop you off at your hotel in Mompox, all without a ferry crossing. It’s best to ask at the front desk if they can book a reputable car service for you.
Casa Amarilla
We stayed at Casa Amarilla, a beautiful boutique hotel in a colonial building. It’s located on the Albarrada, just steps from the Magdalena River and the Church of Santa Bárbara in the historic town center.
They have an amazing staff that goes out of their way to make sure you have a comfortable stay. Breakfast is included in the rate, and there are some nice areas in the lobby to sit. Another advantage is that one of the best restaurants in town is located pretty much next door.
Our room was very clean and comfortable and the air conditioning was excellent. That’s definitely a plus in Mompox! We really enjoyed the peace and quiet of the room and slept wonderfully.
Getting Around
Getting around Mompox can be done on foot, but it can be several blocks between certain attractions. Furthermore, it’s so hot, you might want to hop on a tuk-tuk (motocarro) to get from Point A to Point B. This only costs a few thousand pesos and saves lots of energy from walking in the blazing heat.
