Last updated on .

Magical Mompox is a town along the Magdalena River, seemingly stuck in time. It’s off the beaten path but well worth the effort to get to.

 

Introduction to Mompox

Mompox, officially Santa Cruz de Mompox, is a place that seems to jump off the pages of a Gabriel García Márquez novel. It’s a Colombian Heritage Town (Pueblo Patrimonio) as well as a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can see it in a day, but it’s best to stay for two or three to take your time and soak in the atmosphere. We spent a few nights in Mompox, giving us two full days to relax and take in the colonial town. It didn’t disappoint.

Mompox was founded on May 3, 1537, by Spanish conquistador Alonso de Heredia, brother of Pedro de Heredia (c. 1505-1554), the founder of Cartagena. The town prospered as a port for the transportation of gold and other goods up the Magdalena River. It later became one of the most important towns during the Colombian struggle for independence from Spain. Liberator Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) once said:

If to Caracas I owe my life, then to Mompox I owe my glory.


 

Getting to Mompox

Getting to Mompox is an adventure in itself. Although it’s not as difficult as some people make it seem, it IS time consuming and may take some extra planning.

 

Driving to Mompox

We drove from Coveñas, which would more or less follow the same route as someone coming from Cartagena or Barranquilla. This involved stopping in Magangué and taking a car ferry from Yatí to La Bodega across the Magdalena River before continuing along the road to Mompox. With two bridges over the river opening to traffic in March 2020, the journey has become much easier.

Magangué-Mompox ferry in Yatí, Colombia
Magangué-Mompox ferry

If coming from Santa MartaBogotá, or Bucaramanga, there are no ferry crossings, but the road as you approach Mompox is in an abysmal state. Potholes the size of swimming pools will take a toll on both passengers and drivers.

 

Buses to Mompox

Bus passengers from Cartagena or Barranquilla will take a similar route crossing the two bridges over the Magdalena River. In the past, at Magangué, you had to board a chalupa and continue by bus once arriving at La Bodega. Some buses crossed on the ferry, making the trip a lot easier.

Passengers filling up a chalupa in Magangué, Bolívar, Colombia
Passengers filling up a chalupa

There are a few direct bus services from Bogotá and Bucaramanga. Santa Marta seems a bit trickier, with locals telling me there’s a change to a taxi or minibus somewhere near Mompox.

 

Shared Car Service

There are shared car services from Cartagena, Barranquilla, and Santa Marta. They’ll pick you up at your hotel in those cities and drop you off at your hotel in Mompox. It’s best to ask at reception if they can book a reputable car service for you.

 

Getting Around Mompox

Getting around Mompox can be done on foot, but it can be several blocks between certain attractions. Furthermore, it’s so hot, you might want to hop on a tuk-tuk (motocarro) to get from Point A to Point B. The cost is reasonable and it saves you lots of energy from walking in the blazing heat.

Tuk-tuk
Tuk-tuk


 

Where to Stay in Mompox

Without any big hotel chains, you’ll choose between small boutique hotels and simpler accommodation.

 

Casa Amarilla

We stayed at Casa Amarilla, a beautiful boutique hotel in a colonial building. It’s located on La Albarrada, just steps from the Magdalena River and the Church of Santa Barbara.

Casa Amarilla
Casa Amarilla
Garden at Casa Amarilla in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Garden

They have an amazing staff that goes out of their way to make sure you have a comfortable stay. Breakfast is included in the rate, and there are some nice areas in the lobby to sit. Another advantage is that one of the best restaurants in town is located pretty much next door.

Sitting area at Casa Amarilla in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Sitting area
Sitting area at Casa Amarilla in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Sitting area

Our room was very clean and comfortable and the air conditioning was excellent. That’s definitely a plus in Mompox! We really enjoyed the peace and quiet of the room and slept wonderfully.

Our room at Casa Amarilla
Our room
Our room at Casa Amarilla in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Our room
Bathroom at Casa Amarilla
Bathroom

 

Where to Eat in Mompox

When we visited Mompox, we found the selection of good restaurants to be limited. However, we were generally very happy with where we ate.


 

El Fuerte

The best restaurant we tried by far was El Fuerte. Located in a historic colonial building, El Fuerte specializes in pizzas and pasta dishes and is owned by a man from Austria. It’s located just a few steps from our hotel along La Albarrada.

El Fuerte in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
El Fuerte
Dining room at El Fuerte
Dining room
Dining room at El Fuerte
Dining room

We ate there two nights in a row. On the first night, we started with bruschetta. We each ordered a pizza, which are cooked in a wood-fired brick oven. The bruschetta wasn’t that great but the pizzas were excellent. To finish our meal, we shared an apple strudel with ice cream.

Bruschetta at El Fuerte
Bruschetta
Pizza at El Fuerte
Pizza
Pizza at El Fuerte
Pizza
Apple strudel at El Fuerte
Apple strudel

On our second night, we shared a gazpacho, which was delicious. Marisol had a shrimp salad and I had ravioli. The meal was good, but it didn’t quite match the quality of the pizza the night before. I’d stick with the pizza.

Gazpacho at El Fuerte in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Gazpacho
Shrimp salad at El Fuerte
Shrimp salad
Ravioli at El Fuerte
Ravioli

One note: El Fuerte only accepts cash. They only told us when it was time to pay the bill. It’s one of the more expensive restaurants in town, so be prepared.

 

Ambrosia

Located on Plaza de la Libertad, we stopped into Ambrosia for lunch on our second day. They serve up Caribbean fusion, and have a wide variety of dishes on their menu. I had a chicken and eggplant parmesan dish while Marisol had a shrimp dish. Both were excellent.

Ambrosia in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Ambrosia
Dining room at Ambrosia
Dining room
Chicken and eggplant parmesan
Chicken and eggplant parmesan
Shrimp at Ambrosia
Shrimp

 

Taganga Cevichería (Permanently Closed)

Taganga Cevichería is located off Plaza Santa Bárbara. They offer “build your own ceviche”, where you choose the seafood, toppings, and sauces. It’s not the best ceviche but it was good.

Taganga Cevichería
Taganga Cevichería
Ceviche at Taganga Cevichería in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Ceviche

 

Rico y Rápido (Permanently Closed)

A block from our hotel on Calle del Medio, we ate our first dinner at Rico y Rápido. They have a good variety of fast food dishes and traditional Colombian favorites. We both had chicken and fries. It was cheap and exactly what we expected out of the meal – nothing special but it hit the spot.

Rico y Rápido
Rico y Rápido

 

La Isla (Permanently Closed)

Finally, if you’re into craft beer, visit La Isla. It’s a bar along La Albarrada serving brews from Santa Marta. It’s not the best beer I’ve ever had, but service is friendly and the atmosphere and decor is nice.

La Isla in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
La Isla
Dining room of La Isla in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Dining room
Bar at La Isla in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Bar


 

Local Specialties in Mompox

One of the best things about Mompox are the local specialties that can be found all around town. There are three in particular that are worth seeking out.

 

Filigree

The most important craft in Mompox is filigree (filigrana). This ancient jewelry technique has been performed in Mompox since colonial times, and stores can be found scattered throughout the historic town center.

A street vendor showing off his filigree jewelry in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
A street vendor showing off his filigree jewelry

Artists are happy to show you rings, earrings, pendants and other pieces they created using silver and gold. Many pieces have a strictly Colombian theme. Unfortunately, the artists we spoke to refused to show us how they made the filigree. They were afraid it would be copied.

Filigree jewelry in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Filigree jewelry
Filigree jewelry in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Filigree jewelry

 

Corozo Wine

Corozo wine is another specialty. It seemed like every single tourist in Mompox takes home a bottle of this sweet fruit liqueur. Corozo is a small red fruit common in Colombia. When eaten raw, it tastes sour, but when used in a juice or wine, it takes on a sweeter flavor.

Corozo wine
Corozo wine

You can find several stores in town selling corozo wine. Take a sample and I’m sure you’ll end up taking a bottle or two with you!

Corozo wine
Corozo wine

 

Queso de Capa

Finally, you can find queso de capa, a special cheese made by only a handful of families in Mompox. It consists of thin bands of cheese wrapped into several layers. The flavor is mild and reminded me of mozzarella. It’s easy to find street vendors walking around town selling queso de capa, both plain and stuffed with bocadillo (guava jam), packaged in small plastic bags. If you buy it on your travels, it will keep for a few days.


 

La Albarrada

La Albarrada is the street along the Magdalena River, and much of it pedestrianized. Other than being a pleasant walk, it’s lined with some of the town’s most important historic buildings. I’ll start from the very south and work my way north. The route covers about 1.5 kilometers and corresponds to Carrera 1.

Magdalena River
Magdalena River
La Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
La Albarrada
La Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
La Albarrada

 

Portals of the Bodega

At the very south of La Albarrada are the Portals of the Bodega (Portales de la Bodega), which was an old warehouse during the Spanish colonial period. It was used to store gunpowder, tobacco, and aguardiente.

Portals of the Bodega along the Albarrada
Portals of the Bodega

 

Parks and Homes

Continuing north for the next couple blocks, there are a few parks and green spaces as well as a football field. It’s a bit cooler in this area thanks to the trees. We also noticed a few locals setting up businesses with a table and chair, including a barber shop and lemonade stand.

La Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
La Albarrada
Football field along the La Albarrada
Football field
Colonial homes along La Albarrada
Colonial homes

During the time of our visit, the homes along this stretch weren’t refurbished like the ones running north from Plaza Santa Bárbara. Many were abandoned and some were for sale.

Run-down colonial home along La Albarrada
Run-down colonial home
A colonial home being restored along La Albarrada
A colonial home being restored
Run-down colonial home along La Albarrada
Run-down colonial home
Run-down colonial home along La Albarrada
Run-down colonial home


 

Fort San Anselmo

At the end of the block past the football field is Fort San Anselmo (Fuerte de San Anselmo). This old building wasn’t actually a fort but was used as a warehouse for merchandise. It has been converted to a restaurant, El Fuerte.

Fort San Anselmo in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Fort San Anselmo

 

Parque Santander

Next is Parque Santander, which is a small park with a bust of Francisco de Paula Santander (1792-1840). It’s a pleasant green space with nice landscaping and some flowers. After Parque Santander, the street becomes paved, narrower, and not as leafy.

Parque Santander in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Parque Santander
Parque Santander
Parque Santander
Bust of Santander
Bust of Santander

 

Plaza Santa Bárbara

Plaza Santa Bárbara is just past Parque Santander. It’s easily the most scenic plaza in Mompox and is surrounded by old colonial buildings, many of them containing restaurants and businesses.

Buildings on Plaza Santa Bárbara in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Buildings on Plaza Santa Bárbara
A section of Plaza Santa Bárbara
A section of Plaza Santa Bárbara

A popular place to meet or hang out, Plaza Santa Bárbara features wide lanes under tall shady trees. There are even some old cannons pointing towards the river situated along La Albarrada .

Path through Plaza Santa Bárbara in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Path through Plaza Santa Bárbara
Path through Plaza Santa Bárbara in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Path through Plaza Santa Bárbara
Men sitting by a cannon on Plaza Santa Bárbara
Men sitting by a cannon


 

Church of Santa Barbara

The centerpiece of the plaza is the most beautiful of all the churches in Mompox, the Church of Santa Barbara (Iglesia de Santa Bárbara). The original Church of Santa Barbara was completed in 1613 out of mud and straw. The current building, an architectural gem, was completed in 1733.

Church of Santa Barbara in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Church of Santa Barbara
Church of Santa Barbara in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Church of Santa Barbara
Detail on the façade of the Church of Santa Barbara
Detail on the façade

Among the most striking features are the Baroque bell tower. It’s decorated with moldings of crowns, flowers, lions, and palms. The tower was built with a balcony.

Bell tower of the Church of Santa Barbara
Bell tower
Decorations on the bell tower of the Church of Santa Barbara
Decorations on the bell tower

Inside the church, there are three golden altars. Each pew contains gorgeous woodwork on the ends. Near the main entrance to the church is what locals pointed out as the cross of Mompox.

Nave of the Church of Santa Barbara in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Nave
Altar of the Church of Santa Barbara
Altar
Pew of the Church of Santa Barbara
Pew
Cross of Mompox of the Church of Santa Barbara in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Cross of Mompox

For COP$3,000 (as of November 2023), it’s possible to climb the bell tower. It’s accessible through the church’s courtyard, which can be seen clearly from the first level of the tower. You can also see the façade of the church from the balcony as well, but at an extreme angle.

Courtyard of the Church of Santa Barbara
Courtyard
Courtyard of the Church of Santa Barbara
Courtyard
Looking down on the façade of the Church of Santa Barbara
Looking down on the façade

Once you reach the upper levels, you can get a good look at the bells and mechanics. One of the bells was cast in 1830.

Bells of the Church of Santa Barbara
Bells
Bell of the Church of Santa Barbara
Bell
Bell cast in 1830 at the Church of Santa Barbara
Bell cast in 1830
Mechanics in the bell tower
Mechanics in the bell tower

The views down to the plaza below as well as the surrounding area are wonderful. It’s easy to spot the bell towers of other colonial churches in Mompox. The terra cotta rooftops and small buildings show how the town really hasn’t changed over the centuries.

Looking down on the plaza from the Church of Santa Barbara in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Looking down on the plaza
Looking north from the bell tower of the Church of Santa Barbara in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Looking north
Buildings to the south of Church of Santa Barbara in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Buildings to the south
Looking north from the bell tower of the Church of Santa Barbara in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Looking north


 

Homes North of Plaza Santa Bárbara

Walking north from Plaza Santa Bárbara, we passed by several whitewashed and lightly colored colonial homes along La Albarrada. They all have a beautiful view facing the Magdalena River.

La Albarrada
La Albarrada
La Albarrada
La Albarrada
Colonial homes along La Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Colonial homes

 

Birthplace of Edith Cabrales Samudio

The first point of interest we came to after Plaza Santa Bárbara was the birthplace of Edith Cabrales Samudio (1929-1994). She inspired the iconic Caribbean song La Momposina by composer José Barros (1915-2007), who was enchanted by her beauty.

Home of Edith Cabrales Samudio
Home of Edith Cabrales Samudio

 

Portals of the Marquise

Next door is one of the most famous sets of buildings in Mompox, the Portals of the Marquise (Portales de la Marquesa). These buildings were constructed at the end of the 17th century and were once two mansions surrounding courtyards. In one lived the Marquise of Torre Hoyos and in the other the Marquis of Santa Coa.

Portals of the Marquise along the Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Portals of the Marquise
Portals of the Marquise
Portals of the Marquise

Today, the mansions have been split into four buildings. They’re characterized by their huge portals and windows. On the inside they contain high ceilings and beautiful patios.

Portals of the Marquise along the Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Portals of the Marquise
Portals of the Marquise along the Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Portals of the Marquise

 

Stone of Bolívar

After a few minutes, passing by several more colonial buildings and an unfriendly iguana, we came to the Stone of Bolívar (Piedra de Bolívar). It sits next to the river on a small plaza and indicates the dates of Simón Bolívar’s visits to Mompox.

Iguana along the Albarrada
Iguana
Stone of Bolívar
Stone of Bolívar
Stone of Bolívar along the Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Stone of Bolívar
Building north of the Stone of Bolívar
Building to the north


 

Plaza de la Concepción

A bit further along La Albarrada is the Plaza de la Concepción. It was originally called Plaza Mayor and is where the very first Spanish settlement of Mompox developed. Due to floods near the end of the 16th century and construction of homes and other buildings, the current plaza is only a fraction of the size.

Plaza de la Concepción along the Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Plaza de la Concepción

 

Church of the Immaculate Conception

There are two important buildings on Plaza de la Concepción. One is the Church of the Immaculate Conception (Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción), which was originally built with adobe in 1541 by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Heredia (c. 1505-1554).

Church of the Immaculate Conception in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Church of the Immaculate Conception
Church of the Immaculate Conception
Church of the Immaculate Conception

10 years later, the church was enlarged. Bricks replaced the adobe and tiles replaced the straw roof. The church was restored several times over the years, with the last restoration occurring in 1795.

Nave of the Church of the Immaculate Conception in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Nave
Nave of the Church of the Immaculate Conception
Nave

In 1839, provincial governor José Duque ordered the church’s demolition. A new one was built to replace it, with construction lasting from 1843 to 1931. It continues to be one of the most important churches in Mompox.

Altar of the Church of the Immaculate Conception
Altar
Side chapel of the Church of the Immaculate Conception
Side chapel
Chapel in the Church of the Immaculate Conception
Chapel

 

Market Building

Across the plaza is the historic market building. It was completed in 1910 and has one side facing the river. Currently, it’s filled with shops and a tourism office.

Market building along the Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Market building
Market building along the Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Market building
The market building from the Magdalena River in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
The building from the Magdalena River

 

Plaza del Moral

A block further north in the small Plaza del Moral, Simón Bolívar disembarked on December 25, 1812, and rounded up 300 men to fight the Spanish. It was also the location of a great reception for General Hermógenes Maza (1792-1847), a Colombian revolutionary hero who retired to private life in Mompox in 1826. During colonial times, the plaza functioned as Customs Square (Plaza de la Aduana) because the colonial customs offices were located there.

Plaza del Moral
Plaza del Moral


 

House of Candelario Obeso

Just past Plaza del Moral is the house of Candelario Obeso (1849-1884). Obeso was an important poet of mixed white and African descent. He died a tragic death in Bogotá after a gun he was handling discharged and left him with a bullet in the chest. It’s unknown if it was a suicide or an accident.

House of Candelario Obeso
House of Candelario Obeso

 

Casa Frank

A few steps later we came to one of the most interesting houses for me personally, Casa Frank. I was drawn to deep yellow color, the door, and the door knocker in the shape of a lizard. I don’t know if it’s historically significant but it really caught my eye.

Casa Frank
Casa Frank
Door knocker on Casa Frank
Door knocker

 

Plaza de San Francisco

Finally, we finished our walk down La Albarrada at Plaza de San Francisco. This wide open plaza is where you can catch touristic cruises of the Magdalena River and Ciénaga de Pijiño.

Plaza de San Francisco along the Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Plaza de San Francisco
Plaza de San Francisco along the Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Plaza de San Francisco
Magdalena River
Magdalena River
Saxophone sculpture on Plaza de San Francisco
Saxophone sculpture

 

Church of San Francisco

The focal point of the plaza is the Church of San Francisco (Iglesia de San Francisco). It was originally built in 1564, but the current building was constructed in 1966.

Church of San Francisco along the Albarrada in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Church of San Francisco
Church of San Francisco in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Church of San Francisco

 

Sacred Heart College

Next door is the Sacred Heart College (Colegio Sagrado Corazón). This school opened its doors on January 2, 1924, and was directed by the Franciscan Mothers. It’s housed in the former Convent of San Francisco (Convento de San Francisco), which was founded by Friar Francisco Gonzaga in 1580. The convent had been left in ruins but gradually restored by the nuns.

Sacred Heart College along the Albarrada
Sacred Heart College


 

Calle del Medio

Most of the points of interest inland from the Magdalena River lie along Calle del Medio, which is a block from La Albarrada. It’s a busy street that sees lots of action in a few parts. Motorcycles zoom by while locals go shopping. In other sections, it’s much quieter and more residential. I’ll start on the north end near Plaza de San Francisco and work my south.

Looking north down Calle del Medio in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Looking north down Calle del Medio
Calle del Medio in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Calle del Medio
A section of Calle del Medio in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
A section of Calle del Medio
Calle del Medio in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Calle del Medio

 

Church of San Juan de Dios

The first point of interest we passed was the Church of San Juan de Dios (Iglesia de San Juan de Dios). It was founded in 1550 and belonged to the hospital next door.

Church of San Juan de Dios in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Church of San Juan de Dios

 

Hospital San Juan de Dios

The Hospital San Juan de Dios was founded in 1550 along with the church. During the Spanish colonial period, it was funded by a tax on each boat that passed Mompox along the river. It’s considered to be the oldest hospital in the Americas still operating in its original building.

Hospital San Juan de Dios
Hospital San Juan de Dios

 

House of the Apostles

A few steps away is the House of the Apostles (Casa de los Apóstoles). It was once the mansion of a wealthy shipping family. Inside are images of the Twelve Apostles and Jesus at the Last Supper. The house was closed when we walked by.

House of the Apostles
House of the Apostles


 

Plaza de la Libertad

On the next block is Plaza de la Libertad. On August 6, 1810, citizens of Mompox met in the plaza to declare independence from Spain.

Plaza de la Libertad in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Plaza de la Libertad

In the center is a monument dedicated to the independence movement. It contains a quote by Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) on one side and is topped by a woman wielding a sword.

Plaza de la Libertad in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Plaza de la Libertad
Monument to Colombian independence in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Monument to Colombian independence

 

Palace of San Carlos

The large building on the west end of the plaza is the Palace of San Carlos (Palacio de San Carlos). It was completed in 1660 by the Jesuits and housed a convent as well as the town’s first secondary school. The Jesuits were expelled from the country on February 27, 1767, and the building ceased to be a convent and school. It now serves as the Municipal Palace (Palacio Municipal). Mompox’s UNESCO designation can be found on one of the outer walls.

Palace of San Carlos
Palace of San Carlos
UNESCO designation in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
UNESCO designation

 

Cabildo

Detouring a block east of Plaza de la Libertad towards the river is the Cabildo, or Ayuntamiento (Town Council). During the Spanish colonial period, it contained the mayor’s office, a notary office, a meeting room, and dungeons. On August 6, 1810, after the cry for independence in the plaza, town officials met there and signed the Act of Absolute Independence from Spain. The cry “be free or die” (“ser libres o morir”) was first heard there. The building is now known as the Municipality House (Casa de la Municipalidad).

Cabildo in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Cabildo

 

Parque de Bolívar

Continuing south down Calle del Medio for another block is Parque de Bolívar. It’s a lively square full of vendors selling street food, used books, and other goods. A statue of Bolívar sits in the center.

Parque de Bolívar in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Parque de Bolívar
Parque de Bolívar in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Parque de Bolívar
Statue of Simón Bolívar
Statue of Simón Bolívar


 

Casa de Te Deum

A half block away is the Casa de Te Deum, now functioning as Hostal Doña Manuela. It’s a 17th century mansion once owned by Pedro Martínez de Pinillos and his wife, Manuela Tomasa de Nájera. It contains a restaurant, hotel, swimming pool, and a beautiful interior garden. Above the door is an inscription in Latin: TE DEUM LAUDAMUS TE DOMINUM (We praise you our Lord). Apparently the hotel offers tours each afternoon, but we weren’t allowed to walk around on our own.

Hostal Doña Manuela in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Hostal Doña Manuela
Calle del Medio in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Calle del Medio

 

Palace of Justice

Next door is the Palace of Justice (Palacio de Justicia). I couldn’t find any useful information about it.

Palace of Justice
Palace of Justice

 

Cultural Museum of Religious Art

At the end of the block is the Cultural Museum of Religious Art (Museo Cultural de Arte Religioso), which was founded on July 30, 1990. It occupies the former home of the Gutiérrez de Piñeres family and is where Simón Bolívar stayed on five of his eight visits to Mompox. The museum displays gold and silver jewelry from the 16th to 18th centuries as well as 17th century oil paintings of the Holy Family and religious objects used during Holy Week. Admission is COP$10,000 per person (as of February 2024) and photography is forbidden inside. We decided not to visit.

Cultural Museum of Religious Art
Cultural Museum of Religious Art

 

Cultural Center

Another block south is the Cultural Center (Casa de la Cultura). The building was the birthplace of Juan del Corral (1778-1814), a governor of Antioquia. He proposed the freedom of child slaves, which was enacted a few weeks before his death. It now holds a small museum about the town’s history, and classrooms for art and music. We visited the Cultural Center and spent about a half hour there. Admission is COP$3,000 per person (as of January 2024).

Cultural Center in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Cultural Center


 

Building of the Cultural Center

When we entered the building, the first thing we noticed was antique furniture. There was also a fresco that had been whitewashed, and the paint was peeled back in a few spots to reveal how the building might have looked in the past. A beautiful courtyard sits in the center.

Antique furniture in the Cultural Center
Antique furniture
Fresco in the Cultural Center of Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Fresco
Cultural Center
Cultural Center
Courtyard of the Cultural Center of Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Courtyard

In a room at the back of the building, we saw an original tin ceiling, which reminded me of something out of the Wild West. We also saw the building’s antique bathroom. The tub was made of marble while the toilet was made of porcelain. In the rear courtyard, there’s a garden and former stables.

Tin ceiling in the Cultural Center
Tin ceiling
Original bathroom in the Cultural Center
Original bathroom
Marble bathtub in the Cultural Center
Marble bathtub
Toilet in the Cultural Center
Toilet
Rear courtyard of the Cultural Center
Rear courtyard

 

Museum at the Cultural Center

We started our visit to the museum portion of the building in what seemed to be a meeting room. Outside on the courtyard we admired a huge clay jug. These jugs carried wine and oil from Spain by ship during the colonial period.

Meeting room in the Cultural Center
Meeting room
Large clay jug from Spain in the Cultural Center
Large clay jug from Spain

Next, we saw an exhibit displaying artifacts found in archaeological digs throughout town, including pottery shards and bones. Several bodies were exhumed in the town plazas during renovations because churches, cloisters, and plazas were used for burials before the cemetery was built.

Archaeological exhibit in the Cultural Center
Archaeological exhibit

Next, we visited a room displaying the personal articles and portraits of important residents of Mompox and the region. Another room was set aside to honor Candelario Obeso (1849-1884), a famous Colombian poet from Mompox.

Historical exhibit in the Cultural Center of Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Historical exhibit
Room dedicated to Candelario Obeso in the Cultural Center
Room dedicated to Candelario Obeso

 

Church of San Agustín

Across the street from the Cultural Center is the Church of San Agustín (Iglesia de San Agustín). It’s officially named the Minor Basilica of the Most Holy Christ of Mompox (Basílica Menor del Santísimo Cristo de Mompox). The church and attached convent was founded in 1606 by the Barefoot Augustinian Hermits.

Church of San Agustín
Church of San Agustín
Convent and Church of San Agustín in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Convent and Church of San Agustín
Convent of San Agustín
Convent of San Agustín

Inside the church is a masterpiece, the Holy Christ Crucified, which sits behind the altar. There’s also a large golden sepulcher kept behind a glass case as well as a beautiful pulpit carved out of wood.

Nave of the Church of San Agustín in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Nave
Altar of the Church of San Agustín
Altar
Pulpit in the Church of San Agustín in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Pulpit
Sepulcher in the Church of San Agustín
Sepulcher

 

House of Remembrance

The final building on Calle del Medio we passed was the House of Remembrance (Casa del Recuerdo). It was built between 1806 and 1809 by Pantaleón Germán de Ribón y Segura, a hero of Colombian independence. He was executed in Cartagena on February 24, 1816. The house now functions as a nursing home.

House of Remembrance in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
House of Remembrance


 

Calle de Atrás

Wandering along the next street away from the river, Calle de Atrás, we noticed a few interesting murals. One was a mosaic and the other is a painting. Both are dedicated to the annual jazz festival that takes place in Mompox every October.

Mosaic mural
Mosaic mural
Mural
Mural

 

Church of Santo Domingo

Between the two murals is the Church of Santo Domingo (Iglesia de Santo Domingo), which was originally built in 1554 out of straw. It remained in its original state until it collapsed on August 19, 1845. The current building was completed in 1856. Next door to the original church was the Tribunal of the Holy Office of the Inquisition, which was destroyed during the time of Colombian independence from Spain. The church was closed when we walked by.

Church of Santo Domingo in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Church of Santo Domingo

 

Pinillos College

Across the street is a large school building, Pinillos College (Colegio Pinillos). It was founded at the Palace of San Carlos on August 29, 1809, by Pedro Martínez de Pinillos as the Universal School of St. Peter the Apostle. Pinillos was born in Torrecilla de los Cameros, Spain, on January 18, 1748, and arrived in Mompox in 1769.

Pinillos College
Pinillos College

Construction on the building began in 1794 and was completed in 1809. Classes in philosophy, Latin, theology, medicine, and painting were taught. Simón Bolívar stayed there on his final two visits to Mompox – August 14, 1827, and May 18, 1830. An ordinance on November 19, 1853, changed the name of the school to honor its founder.

Pinillos College
Pinillos College


 

Mompox Cemetery

The Mompox Cemetery (Cementerio de Mompox) is located about a block west of the Church of Santo Domingo. Originally, burials took place in the patios of churches and cloisters throughout town. Unfortunately, because the bodies were not properly buried, several epidemics broke out. Spanish priest and botanist José Celestino Mutis (1732-1808) suggested a new cemetery be built. The Mompox Cemetery opened in 1831.

Mompox Cemetery
Mompox Cemetery

The entrance to the cemetery is through a beautifully manicured park. To the right is a statue of the ancient Greek muse Euterpe. Above the gate to the cemetery is the phrase “Here confines life with eternity” (“Aquí confina la vida con la eternidad”).

Park in front of the cemetery in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Park in front of the cemetery
Statue of Euterpe
Statue of Euterpe
Gate to the cemetery
Gate to the cemetery

Inside the gates, there’s a brick path down the center. On either side appear to be the graves of the wealthier citizens of Mompox.

Mompox Cemetery in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Mompox Cemetery

Among the most important people buried in the cemetery are General Hermógenes Maza (1792-1847) and Candelario Obeso (1849-1884), both mentioned earlier in this post.

Grave of General Hermógenes Maza at the Mompox Cemetery in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Grave of General Hermógenes Maza
Gravestone for General Hermógenes Maza
Gravestone for General Hermógenes Maza
Grave of Candelario Obeso at the Mompox Cemetery in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Grave of Candelario Obeso
Grave of Candelario Obeso
Grave of Candelario Obeso

There are also a few other tombs that caught my eye. One belonged to a soldier who died in the Korean War in 1953. Another belonged to a local musician. There was also the grave of a German immigrant to Colombia.

Headstone of a man killed in the Korean War
Headstone of a man killed in the Korean War
Grave of a local musician
Grave of a local musician
Grave of a German immigrant
Grave of a German immigrant

At the end of the path is a chapel. It was consecrated in 1840 by the Bishop of Santa Marta, Luis José Serrano Díaz. The altar was made mostly of Carrara marble. Surrounding the chapel are simpler tombs.

Chapel at the Mompox Cemetery in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Chapel
Chapel at the Mompox Cemetery in Mompox, Bolívar, Colombia
Chapel

 

El Cuchubo Botanical Garden

Finally, a few blocks west of Plaza Santa Bárbara, we tried to visit the El Cuchubo Botanical Garden (Jardín Botánico El Cuchubo). The garden was founded by Carlos Pontón Rangel (1918-1991), a self-taught botanist who became a professor at the University of Córdoba in Montería. Apparently, there are over 1,000 species of plants in the garden collected from around world and it’s visited by university students from all over Colombia. When we arrived, we found the doors closed and no indication it was actually a botanical garden. We did manage to peek through the fence, however.

Entrance to the El Cuchubo Botanical Garden
Entrance
Peeking through the fence into the El Cuchubo Botanical Garden
Peeking through the fence

 

Map of Mompox

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

Write A Comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Jump To