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Santa Cruz de Lorica is a town in the Caribbean region of Colombia. It’s a unique place that seems stuck in time.

 

Introduction to Lorica

Lorica was founded on the banks of the Sinú River as Santa Cruz de Gaita on November 24, 1776, by Juan de Torrezar Díaz Pimienta, the Governor of Cartagena. The name later changed to Santa Cruz de Lorica to honor a local indigenous chief.

Sinú River in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Sinú River

Lorica was an important economic center and a melting pot of local and foreign cultures from the mid-19th through early 20th centuries. The architecture was heavily influenced by Syrian and Lebanese immigrants, and the rich natural resources attracted people from France, Belgium, England, Italy, and the United States.

Interesting building
Interesting building

Today, Lorica is a Colombian Heritage Town (Pueblo Patrimonio) full of architectural gems and an interesting local gastronomy. It’s off the beaten path, but worth the trek if you’ve got the time.


 

Getting to Lorica

The nearest airport to Lorica is Los Garzones Airport in Montería, which is a little over an hour away. There are regularly scheduled flights from Bogotá, Medellín, and Barranquilla (as of August 2024). You can also catch a bus from Montería or Cartagena.

Locals riding a motorcycle
Locals riding a motorcycle

 

Lorica Riverwalk

One of the best ways to see Lorica is to stroll along the riverwalk (malecón) on the Sinú River. There, you’ll get the best views of town.

Riverwalk in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Riverwalk

The riverwalk runs for about six blocks. It contains a few trees and benches as well as a bike path. As we continued towards the historic center of town, the views of the buildings got better and better.

Riverwalk
Riverwalk
Buildings along the river in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Buildings along the river
Buildings along the river in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Buildings along the river

 

Plaza Eva y María

At about the midpoint of the riverwalk, across the street is Plaza Eva y María. There’s a statue of what I assume is Eve on her knees in front of the Virgin Mary.

Plaza Eva y María
Plaza Eva y María
Plaza Eva y María
Plaza Eva y María


 

Mural of Lorica

At the east end, there’s an amazing mural plastered on the side of a building. It was created by Adriano Ríos Sossa, an artist born in Lorica.

Mural
Mural

The mural is a mosaic made of 1,200 pieces and depicts life in the town in the 1950s. In that era, Lorica was the most important commercial hub along the Sinú River. You can see the influence of immigrants from Syria and Lebanon, Germany, and Italy, as well as Afro-Colombians and indigenous peoples.

Scene depicting life in the 1950s on the mural in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Scene depicting life in the 1950s
Indigenous people on a mural
Indigenous people

The mural vividly captures Lorica in its heyday and helped me travel back in time to understand how the town must have appeared to travelers.

Scene depicting life in the 1950s on the mural in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Scene depicting life in the 1950s
Mural of children playing
Children playing

 

Gastrobar Saudita

Continuing east along the river, we passed the Gastrobar Saudita, which opened in 1958. This shows some of the Arab influence in Lorica.

Gastrobar Saudita
Gastrobar Saudita

 

Parque Simón Bolívar

A short walk east of the riverwalk is Parque Simón Bolívar, which is the main plaza in Lorica. It’s surrounded by some of the most important buildings in town.

Parque Simón Bolívar in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Parque Simón Bolívar
Looking east from Parque Simón Bolívar
Looking east from Parque Simón Bolívar


 

Cathedral of Santa Cruz de Lorica

On the north end is the Cathedral of Santa Cruz de Lorica (Catedral de Santa Cruz de Lorica). This colonial church was built in 1700 and looks larger than it is. When you look at it from the side, you notice it’s only one story high.

Cathedral of Santa Cruz de Lorica in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Cathedral of Santa Cruz de Lorica

The incredible façade is a combination of the various cultures in Lorica. The clock was donated by the Lebanese and Syrian community and imported from Italy in 1920, while the bells were cast in Lisbon, Portugal. The bronze statues were made in France.

Façade of the Cathedral of Santa Cruz de Lorica in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Façade
Bronze statue on the façade of the Cathedral of Santa Cruz de Lorica in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Bronze statue on the façade

 

Parque Lácides Bersal

Next to the cathedral is Parque Lácides Bersal. It was originally called Parque La Fraternidad but renamed in honor of Lácides Bersal (1865-1947), an important Catholic priest, in the 1960s. Bersal was instrumental in the renovation of the cathedral and the construction of the Public Market. In the center is a statue of the priest.

Parque Lácides Bersal
Parque Lácides Bersal
Statue of Lácides Bersal
Statue of Lácides Bersal

 

González Building

Across the plaza is the González Building (Edificio González), which is one of the most elegant buildings in town. It was built in 1929 by José Bravo and was originally known as the Martínez building. Since 2005, it has served as the town hall and contains a tourist info center.

González Building in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
González Building
González Building
González Building

 

Antioquian Commercial Bank

In a building to the right of the González Building, we found what was once the night deposit box at the former Antioquian Commercial Bank (Banco Comercial Antioqueño).

Night deposit box from the Antioquian Commercial Bank in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Night deposit box from the Antioquian Commercial Bank


 

La Isla Building

On the east side of the plaza is the La Isla Building (Edificio La Isla). It was completed around 1919 and has always been used for commercial activities. It was designed in the Neoclassical style and is surrounded by columns on all four sides.

La Isla Building in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
La Isla Building

 

Public Market of Lorica

The Public Market (Mercado Público), known locally as El Ranchón, is the most iconic building in Lorica. It’s a beautiful structure located east of Parque Simón Bolívar with a façade along the Sinú River.

Public Market in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Public Market
Public Market in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Public Market

The Public Market opened in 1929 and was designed by French architect Gastón Lelarge (1861-1934). It’s a blend of the Neoclassical and Republican styles with Arabic influences. Columns surround all four sides of the building.

Public Market in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Public Market
Street side of the Public Market
Street side of the building
River side of the Public Market
River side of the building

Inside, you can find all kinds of goods including locally made crafts, spices, household goods, and much more. It’s a great place to buy an authentic sombrero vueltiao, a national symbol of Colombia.

Shops in the Public Market in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Shops
Spice shop at the Public Market in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Spice shop
Sombrero vueltiao shop
Sombrero vueltiao shop

If you want to get a taste of Lorica, visit one of the food stalls. They’re set up on the river side of the building. We noticed several women preparing local specialties for lunch. It was too early to eat so we didn’t have a chance to try anything on our visit.

Food stalls at the Public Market
Food stalls
Woman preparing lunch at the Public Market
Woman preparing lunch


 

Observing Local Life at the Public Market

The Public Market is the best place to spend time in Lorica, especially if you want to observe local life that seems as if has been unchanged for decades. On the side facing the street, there’s plenty of life. Street vendors set up shop next to and across the street from the market while locals walk by greeting each other.

Street side of the Public Market
Street side of the market

On the side facing the Sinú River, we noticed men preparing fishing nets, a man collecting bottles floating downriver, and three men collecting silt in a boat just offshore.

Sinú River
Sinú River
Man preparing his fishing net at the Public Market
Man preparing his fishing net
A man gathering plastic bottles from the river
A man gathering plastic bottles from the river
Men collecting silt from the river
Men collecting silt from the river
A local man reading the newspaper
A local man reading the newspaper

 

Afife Matuk Building

Just east of the Public Market, we admired another Arab contribution, the Afife Matuk Building (Edificio Afife Matuk). It was completed in 1929 for Checri Fallad and designed by Pedro Barrios.

Afife Matuk Building
Afife Matuk Building
Afife Matuk Building in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Afife Matuk Building
Seal on the Afife Matuk Building in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Seal on the building

 

Herons

East of the Afife Matuk Building is a narrow path along the Sinú River. We stopped to admire some of the white herons that stood along the river’s edge.

East of the Afife Matuk Building
East of the Afife Matuk Building
White herons
White herons
White herons in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
White herons


 

Caraballo Building

A block north of the Public Market is the Dolores de Caraballo Building (Edificio Dolores de Caraballo). It was built in 1936 by José Bravo and was used as a meeting and recreational space for members of the Club Unión. It has also been a meeting place for members of the Syrian and Lebanese community of Lorica.

Caraballo Building
Caraballo Building
Caraballo Building in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Caraballo Building

 

Plaza de La Concordia

Further north is Plaza de La Concordia, which contains a large outdoor public market. This seemed to be where the majority of locals do their shopping. The shops contained mostly household goods, shoes, and clothing.

Plaza de La Concordia
Plaza de La Concordia
Plaza de La Concordia in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Plaza de La Concordia
Looking south from Plaza de La Concordia
Looking south from Plaza de La Concordia

 

Plaza de la Cruz

A block north is Plaza de la Cruz, which contains a large cross in the center. There are two important buildings on the plaza.

Plaza de la Cruz
Plaza de la Cruz

 

Ana Gabriela Martínez Martelo House

On the east end is the Ana Gabriela Martínez Martelo House (Casa de Ana Gabriela Martínez Martelo). It was completed in 1929 and originally functioned as a clinic. Built in the Neoclassical style with Spanish colonial and African elements, it has since been turned into a private residence.

Ana Gabriela Martínez Martelo House
Ana Gabriela Martínez Martelo House

 

Lorica Social Club

On the north end is the Lorica Social Club (Club Lorica). It was built in 1950 and is still active. Although it’s quite simple in style, it’s considered one of the most beautiful and elegant buildings in the city.

Lorica Social Club
Lorica Social Club


 

Palace of the 13 Columns

A block north is the Palace of the 13 Columns (Palacio de las 13 Columnas), which functions as the Municipal Council (Concejo Municipal). Construction began in 1880 under Mayor Juan Burgos Villadiego and was completed in 1915 under Mayor Joaquín Lubo. It has housed the town hall, a jail, and police station.

Palace of the 13 Columns in Lorica, Córdoba, Colombia
Palace of the 13 Columns

 

Monument to the Father of the Fatherland

Finally, a couple blocks east is a plaza with the Monument to the Father of the Fatherland (Monumento al Padre de la Patria), which is dedicated to Admiral José Padilla (1784-1828). It sits in the center of the plaza where Padilla liberated Lorica from Spain in 1821. The monument is seven meters high and consists of an obelisk with an eagle at the top. The plaza was once known as Hermitage Plaza (Plaza de la Ermita) due to a small hermitage nearby. It was laid out in 1930 and completed in 1939.

Monument to the Father of the Fatherland
Monument to the Father of the Fatherland
Monument to the Father of the Fatherland
Monument to the Father of the Fatherland

 

Map of Lorica

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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