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La Candelaria is the historic city center and oldest part of Bogotá. In fact, the city was founded there on August 6, 1538.

A street in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
A street in La Candelaria

 

Introduction to La Candelaria

La Candelaria is an excellent place to start exploring Bogotá, set dramatically at the foot of a lush green mountain. It contains the headquarters of Colombia’s national government and some of the best museums in town.

Colorful buildings in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Colorful buildings in La Candelaria

The neighborhood has been undergoing an extensive rebirth in recent years and is full of colorful refurbished colonial homes and buildings as well as many churches. Several good restaurants have been popping up, especially walking uphill to the east of Plaza de Bolívar.

A street in La Candelaria
A street in La Candelaria
A street in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
A street in La Candelaria

Other than the cultural and historical attractions, one of the best things about La Candelaria is just wandering the streets. The neighborhood is full of colorful and attractive colonial buildings.

A street in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
A street in La Candelaria
La Candelaria at night in Bogotá, Colombia
La Candelaria at night


 

Organization of This Post

I’ll start with Plaza de Bolívar, which is the most important square in Bogotá, and work my way down each street in La Candelaria. I’ll point out the most important historic sites along the way and pop into some museums. The only attraction covered in a separate post is the Santa Clara Museum, which preserves the former Church of Santa Clara.

 

Plaza de Bolívar

Plaza de Bolívar is the best place to start exploring La Candelaria. It’s the focal point of the neighborhood and is the center of Colombia’s government.

Plaza de Bolívar, La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Plaza de Bolívar

Plaza de Bolívar, which was originally named Plaza Mayor, has gone through a long and often tumultuous history, even witnessing a devastating guerrilla attack. It originated as a market square after the founding of Bogotá in 1538. Public punishments were also held there.

In 1821, the plaza was renamed Constitution Square (Plaza de la Constitución). It was renamed Plaza de Bolívar in 1846 after a statue of liberator Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) was placed in the center. The statue was the first public monument in Bogotá and was made by Italian sculptor Pietro Tenerani (1789-1869).

Simón Bolívar statue in Plaza de Bolívar, La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Simón Bolívar statue
Plaque on the base of the Simón Bolívar statue
Plaque on the base of the statue


 

Cathedral of Bogotá

The Cathedral of Bogotá is the most important church in the city. It’s the biggest church in Colombia and one of the biggest in South America. The cathedral is located on the east side of Plaza de Bolívar in La Candelaria.

Cathedral on Plaza de Bolívar, La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Cathedral

The cathedral is the fourth church in this location. The official name is the Sacred Holy Church Primatial Metropolitan Basilica Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception of Mary in Bogotá (Sacro Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada Basílica Metropolitana de la Inmaculada Concepción de María en Bogotá).

Wooden door to the Cathedral of Bogotá
Wooden door
Door knockers on the Cathedral of Bogotá
Door knockers

 

History of the Cathedral of Bogotá

The first church was a small thatched chapel built by Dominican missionary Friar Domingo de las Casas (d. 1539). It was used to celebrate mass on August 6, 1538, for the founding of Bogotá. It was originally called Our Lady of Hope (Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza).

Cathedral of Bogotá in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Cathedral of Bogotá
Aisle in the Cathedral of Bogotá
Aisle

The second church was built between 1553 and 1560, but the roof collapsed on the eve of its inauguration. The third church was built between 1572 and 1590. It was heavily damaged in an earthquake on July 12, 1785, and the decision was made to demolish it in 1805.

Main altar in the Cathedral of Bogotá
Main altar
Main altar in the Cathedral of Bogotá
Main altar

The current cathedral was built between 1807 and 1823. It covers a space of 5,300 square meters. It was designed by Spanish Friar Domingo de Petrés (1759-1811), who also designed the cathedrals of Santa Fe de Antioquia and Zipaquirá.

Dome in the Cathedral of Bogotá
Dome

 

Chapels in the Cathedral of Bogotá

The Cathedral of Bogotá contains several chapels along both aisles and one behind the main altar. The founder of Bogotá, Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada (1496-1579), is entombed in the Chapel of St. Elizabeth of Hungary. His tomb was sculpted by Colombian artist Luis Alberto Acuña (1904-1993). There’s also a monument dedicated to Colombian revolutionary hero Antonio Nariño (1765-1824).

Chapel of St. Elizabeth of Hungary in the Cathedral of Bogotá
Chapel of St. Elizabeth of Hungary
Tomb of Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada in the Cathedral of Bogotá, Colombia
Tomb of Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada
Tomb of Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada in the Cathedral of Bogotá, Colombia
Tomb of Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada
Monument to Antonio Nariño in the Cathedral of Bogotá
Monument to Antonio Nariño

The Chapel of the Immaculate Conception contains the tomb of Bernardo Herrera Restrepo (1844-1928), the first Archbishop of Bogotá from 1891 to his death in 1928.

Chapel of the Immaculate Conception in the Cathedral of Bogotá
Chapel of the Immaculate Conception
Tomb of Bernardo Herrera Restrepo
Tomb of Bernardo Herrera Restrepo

Behind the main altar is the Chapel of Our Lady of El Topo, which contains an altarpiece dating back to 1610. The chapel also holds the tomb of Aurelio París Sanz de Santamaría (1829-1899), a Colombian businessman.

Chapel of Our Lady of El Topo in the Cathedral of Bogotá in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Chapel of Our Lady of El Topo

 

Organ of the Cathedral of Bogotá

The organ was completed in 1890 by Spanish organ builder Aquilino Amezua (1847-1912). It was removed from its original location on the eastern end of the central nave for a restoration between 1960 and 1968, in anticipation of the visit of Pope Paul VI. It now sits on the south end of the cathedral.

Organ in the Cathedral of Bogotá
Organ
Organ in the Cathedral of Bogotá, Colombia
Organ


 

Chapel of the Tabernacle

Moving clockwise from the cathedral, next door is the Chapel of the Tabernacle (Capilla del Sagrario). It was built between 1660 and 1700 and is filled with beautiful works of art. The Cardinal’s Palace (Palacio Cardenalicio), which is the former Archbishop’s Palace (Palacio Arzobispal), sits to the right of the chapel.

Chapel of the Tabernacle (left) and Cardinal's Palace (right) on Plaza de Bolívar, La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Chapel of the Tabernacle (left) and Cardinal’s Palace (right)

The chapel was built on a Latin cross plan with one nave. It was commissioned by Gabriel Gómez de Sandoval y Arratia, a sergeant major of the Spanish Royal army. It predates the cathedral by well over 100 years, and Gómez de Sandoval oversaw the entire project. He died shortly after it was consecrated in 1700.

Chapel of the Tabernacle in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Chapel of the Tabernacle
Altar of the Chapel of the Tabernacle
Altar
Dome in the Chapel of the Tabernacle
Dome

 

Features of the Chapel of the Tabernacle

The first thing a visitor sees when entering the chapel is a wooden screen carved with reliefs related to the Blessed Sacrament. It’s topped by four angels holding symbols of the Eucharist.

Screen in the Chapel of the Tabernacle
Screen
Angels on top of the screen in the Chapel of the Tabernacle
Angels on top of the screen
Angel on top of the screen in the Chapel of the Tabernacle in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Angel on top of the screen
Looking back towards the screen in the Chapel of the Tabernacle
Looking back towards the screen

The wooden ceiling is a barrel vault in the Mudéjar style and is painted red. It’s decorated with golden flowers bordered by octagons and crosses.

Ceiling in the Chapel of the Tabernacle in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Ceiling

The Chapel of the Tabernacle contains 36 of over 50 original paintings by Colombian painter Gregorio Vásquez (1638-1711). Marco Suárez, a local sculptor, carved the pulpit.

Paintings by Gregorio Vásquez in the Chapel of the Tabernacle
Paintings by Gregorio Vásquez
Painting by Gregorio Vásquez in the Chapel of the Tabernacle in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Painting by Gregorio Vásquez
Pulpit
Pulpit


 

San Bartolomé College

On the corner to the right of the Cardinal’s Palace is San Bartolomé College (Colegio Mayor de San Bartolomé), founded in 1604 by Archbishop Bartolomé Lobo Guerrero (1546-1622). To this day it’s a very prestigious school, with alumni including many important politicians and figures in Colombian history.

San Bartolomé College on Plaza de Bolívar, La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
San Bartolomé College

 

National Capitol

On the south end of the plaza sits the National Capitol (Capitolio Nacional), home of the Congress of Colombia. Construction started in 1847 but it wasn’t completed until 1926. It was designed by Danish architect Thomas Reed (1817-1878).

National Capitol on Plaza de Bolívar, La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
National Capitol

 

Liévano Palace

The west end of Plaza de Bolívar contains the Liévano Palace (Palacio Liévano). It replaced the Arrubla Galleries (Galerías Arrubla), built between 1843 and 1848 and destroyed by fire in 1900. The Líevano Palace was built between 1903 and 1907 and was designed by French architect Gaston Lelarge (1861-1934). The building was once home to shops and business but has been home to the Bogotá City Hall (Alcaldía) since 1974.

Liévano Palace on Plaza de Bolívar, La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Liévano Palace


 

Palace of Justice

On the east end is the Palace of Justice (Palacio de Justicia), which holds the Supreme Court of Colombia. The Supreme Court has seen its share of tragedy. The original building was built a block away in 1921 but was burned down in 1948 during El Bogotazo. The next building was built on the current site in 1960 but destroyed by M-19 guerillas in a 1985 fight against the Colombian army. Almost 100 people were killed, including 11 Supreme Court justices, and seven people disappeared. The building is officially named after Alfonso Reyes Echandía (1932-1985), the President of the Supreme Court killed during the siege.

Palace of Justice on Plaza de Bolívar, La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Palace of Justice

 

Independence Museum

Finally, in the northeast corner of Plaza de Bolívar is the Casa del Florero Independence Museum (Museo de La Independencia Casa del Florero). It focuses on the independence of Colombia. Adult admission for foreigners is terribly unfair at US$10 with an optional additional donation of US$1 (as of April 2024). For Colombian citizens and residents, it’s only COP$6,000 with an optional additional donation of COP$2,000 (as of April 2024). Admission is free every Wednesday from 3pm to 5pm and on the last Sunday of each month. The museum is open daily except Mondays.

Independence Museum
Independence Museum
Independence Museum on Plaza de Bolívar, La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Independence Museum

The museum is set in the 16th century home where a broken vase started a fistfight, leading to an eventual rebellion against Spanish rule. There are some interesting interactive displays.

Sculpture of the fistfight at the Independence Museum
Sculpture of the fistfight
An exhibit at the Independence Museum
An exhibit at the Independence Museum


 

Carrera 7

Carrera 7 is a major street in Bogotá. One of the best stretches is a pedestrianized section, also known as Calle Real, running north from Plaza de Bolívar in La Candelaria to Parque Santander in Santa Fe. The few blocks in La Candelaria are lined with tall buildings and shops on the ground floor, including a craft market selling all kinds of Colombian souvenirs at decent prices.

Looking north down Carrera 7 in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Looking north down Carrera 7
Looking towards Plaza de Bolívar on Carrera 7 in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Looking towards Plaza de Bolívar on Carrera 7
Carrera 7 in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Carrera 7
Craft market on Carrera 7
Craft market

I really enjoy the atmosphere of the street. It contains several street performers and vendors, with cyclists, businesspeople rushing by while tourists admire the scene. I’ve even watched several men playing intense games of chess outdoors at a long table.

Men playing chess on Carrera 7 in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Men playing chess

On my very first visit in July 2014, the street was blocked off and fully pedestrianized on a Sunday. Other times it was open to traffic. The street was permanently pedestrianized sometimes after that first visit.

Carrera 7 in July 2014
Carrera 7 in July 2014

 

Jorge Eliécer Gaitán Assassination Site

After walking about three blocks from Plaza de Bolívar, you’ll come to the spot where Jorge Eliécer Gaitán (1903-1948) was assassinated on April 9, 1948. Gaitán was an extremely popular politician who was on the path to being elected president. His assassination triggered massive riots called El Bogotazo, which partially destroyed Bogotá. It also directly led to a period of extreme violence that facilitated the rise of Communist guerrilla groups. More than 200,000 people died in the aftermath of Gaitán’s death in a period of 15 years. The assassin, Juan Roa Sierra (1921-1948), was chased down and killed by an angry mob.

Jorge Eliecer Gaitán assassination site on Carrera 7 in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Jorge Eliecer Gaitán assassination site

 

El Tiempo Building

The El Tiempo Building is located on the corner of Carrera 7 and Avenida Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada. It was designed by Italian architect Bruno Violi (1909-1971) in honor of the 50th anniversary of the founding of El Tiempo, the country’s most widely circulated newspaper. The building was finished in 1958 and is now the headquarters of Citytv Bogotá, which is owned by the newspaper.

El Tiempo on Carrera 7 in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
El Tiempo


 

Chorro de Quevedo

Chorro de Quevedo is a small plaza on the east side of La Candelaria. Many people claim Bogotá was founded there. The plaza and its connecting alleys are surrounded by restaurants and bars and some decent street art. Nighttime transforms the plaza into a gathering place for young people and street artists. It has a unique and fun atmosphere that’s hard to match anywhere in Bogotá. There are also some hostels and a few boutique hotels.

Chorro de Quevedo in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Chorro de Quevedo

Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada (1509-1579) founded a military garrison on the site of today’s Chorro de Quevedo before founding Bogotá in 1538. According to historical records, the Zipa (ruler) of the indigenous Muisca people would observe the entire savannah of Bacatá from the same spot.

Chorro de Quevedo in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Chorro de Quevedo

 

Hermitage of San Miguel del Príncipe

Hermitage of San Miguel de Príncipe (Ermita de San Miguel del Príncipe) is a small church on the plaza. It’s a replica of an older chapel and was built in 1969.

Hermitage of San Miguel de Príncipe in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Hermitage of San Miguel de Príncipe

 

Callejón del Embudo

Callejón del Embudo, a narrow alley running north of Chorro de Quevedo. It often has some of the best graffiti and street art in Bogotá.

Callejón del Embudo in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Callejón del Embudo
Callejón del Embudo in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Callejón del Embudo
Street art on Callejón del Embudo
Street art

At the end of the alley is a small park usually filled with murals as well as good views of Monserrate and some of the city’s skyscrapers.

A mural that has since disappeared near Chorro de Quevedo in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
A mural that has since disappeared
A plaza near Chorro de Quevedo now hosting a small market
A plaza nearby – now hosting a small market
A street near Chorro de Quevedo
A street near the plaza

 

La Candelaria Theatre

About a block south on Calle 12 is the La Candelaria Theatre (Teatro La Candelaria). It was formed in 1966 by a group of local artists.

La Candelaria Theatre
La Candelaria Theatre


 

Calle 11 in La Candelaria

Next, we’ll walk down Calle 11 towards Plaza de Bolívar.

 

Calle del Sol Residential Complex

From La Candelaria Theatre, turn left down Carrera 3 and you’ll see the Calle del Sol Residential Complex. It’s one of the most interesting buildings in La Candelaria. It was built in 1917 as a seminary and later converted to the offices for the Colombian Intelligence Services (Servicio de Inteligencia Colombiana). During that time, it was used for torture and imprisonment. The building sat abandoned for several years until 1987, when it was renovated as a residential complex. It reopened in 1992.

Calle del Sol Residential Complex in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Calle del Sol Residential Complex
Calle del Sol Residential Complex

 

Our Lady of La Candelaria

A block west on Calle 11 at Carrera 4 is Our Lady of La Candelaria (Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria), built between 1686 and 1703. Once part of the Convent of Saint Nicholas of the Augustinian Recollects (Convento de San Nicolás de los Agustinos Recoletos), it houses an important collection of colonial religious art.

Our Lady of La Candelaria in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Our Lady of La Candelaria

The church’s nave is split into three aisles separated by semicircular arches on pillars. The spectacular altarpiece dates back to the 18th century. It’s made of carved wood and is gilded in gold leaf, and consists of three rows with five niches each.

Nave of Our Lady of la Candelaria in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Nave
Altarpiece of Our Lady of La Candelaria in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Altarpiece

Pay special attention to the ceiling, where you can spot La Muerte de San José, a painting by Colombian artist Pedro Alcántara Quijano Montero (1878-1953) representing the death of Saint Joseph.

La Muerte de San José on the ceiling of the nave at Our Lady of La Candelaria in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
La Muerte de San José on the ceiling of the nave


 

Miguel Urrutia Art Museum (MAMU)

Across the street is the Miguel Urrutia Art Museum (Museo de Arte Miguel Urrutia), or MAMU, which houses the art collection of the Bank of the Republic. Over 800 pieces of the 6,000 piece collection is on display at any one time. Admission is free and it’s open daily except Tuesdays (as of April 2024).

 

Botero Museum

The Botero Museum (Museo de Botero) next door is a popular museum featuring several works of art by Colombian artist Fernando Botero (1932-2023). On display are over 100 sculptures, paintings, and drawings donated by the artist, including some of his most important works. Admission is free (as of April 2024) and it’s open daily except Tuesdays.

Botero Museum
Botero Museum

The museum is comprised of several galleries on two floors with a beautiful flowered courtyard in the center. Some of the galleries contain works by artists other than Botero.

Courtyard of the Botero Museum in Bogotá, Colombia
Courtyard
Relief sculpture at the Botero Museum
Relief sculpture
Sculpture at the Botero Museum
Sculpture

Botero created his subjects using exaggerated volume, whether they were humans, animals, or objects. The works often evoke either laughter or sadness, or criticism, and many are politically motivated. The other major gallery he donated his works to is the Antioquia Museum in Medellín.

A drawing of Christ by Botero at the Botero Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
A drawing of Christ
Painting of a skeleton at the Botero Museum
Painting of a skeleton
Painting of a woman at the Botero Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Painting of a woman
Bathroom scene at the Botero Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Bathroom scene

My personal favorites in the museum were the Mona Lisa and the sleeping politician.

Botero's Mona Lisa at the Botero Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Botero’s Mona Lisa
Sleeping politician painting at the Botero Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Sleeping politician


 

Casa de Moneda

The Botero Museum is connected by a courtyard to the Casa de Moneda, which served as a mint from 1621 to 1987. The mint was founded by Spaniard Alonso Turrillo de Yebra, who was sent by royal decree under Felipe III of Spain to the Kingdom of New Granada and arrived in 1621. Coin production moved to the city of Ibagué in 1987.

Casa de Moneda
Casa de Moneda
Casa de Moneda in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Casa de Moneda

The Casa de Moneda was declared a national monument of Colombia on August 11, 1975. Today, it holds the numismatic collection of the Bank of the Republic (Banco de la Republica) as well as several impressive works of art. The Mint Museum (Museo Casa de la Moneda) is open daily except Tuesdays and admission is free (as of April 2024).

Entrance to the Casa de Moneda
Entrance
Courtyard of Casa de Moneda in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Courtyard
Casa de Moneda in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Casa de Moneda

 

Gabriel García Márquez Cultural Center

The Gabriel García Márquez Cultural Center (Centro Cultural Gabriel García Márquez), named after Colombia’s greatest author, is located on the next block at Carrera 6. It features a bookstore and art gallery with temporary exhibits. It was designed in 2003 by French-Colombian architect Rogelio Salmona (1929-2007) and opened in 2008.

Gabriel García Márquez Cultural Center in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Gabriel García Márquez Cultural Center
Another look at the Gabriel García Márquez Cultural Center
Gabriel García Márquez Cultural Center
Gabriel García Márquez Cultural Center


 

La Candelaria Restaurant Zone

If you get hungry while wandering around La Candelaria, head straight to the first block of Calle 11 between Carrera 7 and Carrera 6. This block is full of restaurants facing the north wall of the Cathedral of Bogotá. They all serve traditional Colombian food. The specialty you should try is ajiaco.

Restaurant zone

 

Calle 10 in La Candelaria

From the Calle 11, we’ll cross Plaza de Bolívar and walk down Calle 10. We’ll start at Carrera 9 and walk uphill to Carrera 4.

Calle 10 between Carrera 10 and Carrera 9 in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Calle 10 between Carrera 10 and Carrera 9

 

Our Lady of the Conception

First, just west of Plaza de Bolívar between Carrera 10 and Carrera 9 is the Church of Our Lady of the Conception (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción). It was built between 1583 and 1595 as part of a convent established by local grocer Luis López Ortiz in 1583. The woodwork was done by Juan Sánchez García. The roof, made by artists and materials from Sevilla, was donated by Juan Díaz Jaramillo after he rescued it from his home destroyed by flooding from the Bogotá River in 1581.

Church of Our Lady of the Conception in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Church of Our Lady of the Conception


 

National Police History Museum

Veering a block off Calle 10 to Calle 9 is the National Police History Museum (Museo Histórico de la Policia Nacional), which is one of the most interesting museums in Bogotá. It’s housed in the former police headquarters, a beautiful building which was built in 1923. Admission is free and it’s open daily except Mondays (as of March 2024). The friendly police officers on duty are more than happy to answer any questions, and many speak English.

National Police History Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
National Police History Museum
National Police History Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
National Police History Museum
Inside the building of the National Police History Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Inside the building

The galleries in the museum cover all aspects of police work, including communication methods, uniforms, combatting the illegal drug trade, and special forces. Some of the larger items on display include a bomb disposal robot and a historic police wagon.

Police uniforms at the National Police History Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Police uniforms
Illegal drugs at the National Police History Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Illegal drugs
Bomb disposal robot at the National Police History Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Bomb disposal robot
Historic police wagon at the National Police History Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Historic police wagon

Highlights of the museum include several items from the Pablo Escobar manhunt, complete with a piece of blood-stained roof tile from the spot he was killed. There’s also a few personal items owned by Escobar and a money counter used by the Medellín Cartel, capable of counting 1,200 bills per minute.

Pablo Escobar wanted poster at the National Police History Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Pablo Escobar wanted poster
Roof tile stained with Pablo Escobar's blood at the National Police History Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Roof tile stained with Pablo Escobar’s blood
Pablo Escobar's personal items at the National Police History Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Pablo Escobar’s personal items
Medellín Cartel money counter at the National Police History Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Medellín Cartel money counter

The weapons collection is very impressive. On display are countless handguns, rifles, clubs, and other weapons from all over the world.

Weapons gallery at the National Police History Museum
Weapons gallery
Weapons gallery at the National Police History Museum
Weapons gallery

Don’t miss the mural on the ground floor and the views from the rooftop!

Mural at the National Police History Museum
Mural
View from the rooftop of the National Police History Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
View from the rooftop


 

Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola

Back on Calle 10, just east of Plaza de Bolívar is the Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola (Iglesia de San Ignacio de Loyola), built between 1610 and 1691. It was originally administered by the Jesuits until they were expelled from the country between 1767 and 1891. During those years, it was renamed to the Church of San Carlos (Iglesia de San Carlos), in honor of Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI (who was also King Carlos III of Spain). Today, it’s administered by the Jesuits once again along with San Bartolomé College.

Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola
Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola

 

House of the Rights of Man

Directly across from the church is Plazuela Rufino Cuervo. On this small plaza is the House of the Rights of Man (Casa de los Derechos del Hombre), where Colombian revolutionary hero Antonio Nariño (1765-1823) translated the Declaration of the Rights of Man from French to Spanish.

Plazuela Rufino Cuervo in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Plazuela Rufino Cuervo

Nariño made copies from his personal press and began to distribute them to politically like-minded friends.  This act started spinning the wheels of revolution in South America. For his role in distribution of the pamphlet, Nariño was sentenced to 10 years of prison in Africa and exiled from South America. He escaped from imprisonment in Spain (twice!) in order to aid the revolution. A pair of plaques with the Rights of Man in Spanish sit on the building.

House of the Rights of Man in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
House of the Rights of Man

 

Home of Manuelita Sáenz

Next to the plazuela is the former home of Manuelita Sáenz (1797-1856), the mistress of revolutionary hero Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) and a revolutionary heroine herself. The home now hosts the Museum of Regional Costumes (Museo de Trajes Regionales). Admission is COP$4,000 (as of April) and it’s open daily except Sundays and holidays.

Home of Manuelita Sáenz in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Home of Manuelita Sáenz
Home of Manuelita Sáenz

On the ground floor are representations of traditional clothing in different regions of Colombia. On the upper floor are exhibits of indigenous clothing as well as handicrafts such as weaving and needlepoint.

Museum of Regional Costumes
Museum of Regional Costumes
Indigenous clothing


 

Colonial Museum

On the next corner a few steps down Carrera 6 is the Colonial Museum (Museo Colonial). The Colonial Museum charges an admission of US$10 for foreigners and COP$8,000 for Colombian citizens and residents (as of December 2023). The price for foreigners is terribly unfair. (Note: I was able to visit in October 2023. I’ll update with pictures and info when I have a chance).

Colonial Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Colonial Museum

 

Palace of San Carlos

On the right side about a half block further up Calle 10 is the Palace of San Carlos (Palacio de San Carlos). It was built by Archdeacon Francisco Porras Mejía and completed around 1585. In 1605, it was sold to Archbishop Bartolomé Lobo Guerrero (1546-1622) who converted it to the San Bartolomé Seminary College (Colegio Seminario de San Bartolomé), a Jesuit seminary.  In 1767, after the Jesuits were expelled from New Granada, it became the Royal Library of Santa Fe (Biblioteca Real de Santafé).

Palace of San Carlos in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Palace of San Carlos

From 1827 to 1908, and again from 1954 to 1980, the Palace of San Carlos was the official residence of the President of Colombia. Since December 1993, it has housed the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. A small plaque on the building, written in Latin, tells of Simón Bolívar’s escape from an assassination attempt there in 1828.

Plaque on the Palace of San Carlos in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Plaque

 

Colón Theatre

Across the street is the Colón Theatre (Teatro de Cristóbal Colón). It was designed in 1885 by Italian architect Pietro Cantini who modeled it after the Palais Garnier in Paris. It opened on October 27, 1892, has a capacity of 785 seats.

Colón Theatre in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Colón Theatre

The theatre, which serves as the national theatre of Colombia, has had a long and colorful history. On November 24, 2016, it witnessed the signing of the modified peace agreement between the Colombian government, led by President Juan Manuel Santos, and the FARC, commanded by Rodrigo Londoño.

 

Military Museum

Finally, just past Carrera 5B is the Military Museum (Museo Militar), which was closed when I tried to visit. It’s closed on Mondays and admission is free (as of April 2024).

Military Museum Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Military Museum


 

Carrera 5 in La Candelaria

Turning south from the Military Museum down Carrera 5 are a few more points of interest.

 

Camarín del Carmen

First, at the corner of Carrera 5 and Calle 9 is the Camarín del Carmen. It has served several different purposes over the years. The building was originally built in 1655 for religious purposes and later functioned as a military and educational building. It’s currently used as a theatre that seats 500 and is owned by the Salesian College of Leo XIII (Colegio Salesiano de León XIII), which is located next door.

Camarín del Carmen in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Camarín del Carmen

 

Our Lady of Mount Carmel

A few steps south is Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Nuestra Señora del Carmen). It was designed by Italian-Colombian architect and priest Giovanni Buscaglione (1874-1941) and built between 1926 and 1938. The church was designed in the Florentine Gothic style with Byzantine and Arabic influences. It has a Latin cross plan and the nave is divided into three sections. I finally had a chance to visit in October 2023, and I’ll add photos soon.

Our Lady of Mount Carmel in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Entrance to Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Entrance


 

Calle 7 in La Candelaria

Calle 7 is a very heavily guarded zone in La Candelaria due to it passing in front of the Nariño Palace and several government buildings. You’ll have to ask permission to pass through checkpoints to visit some points of interest.

 

Archaeological Museum of Bogotá

First, a few steps down Carrera 6 is the Archaeological Museum of Bogotá (Museo Arqueológico Bogotá), or MUSA Bogotá. It’s hosted in the House of the Marquis of San Jorge (Casa del Marqués de San Jorge), which was built in the late 18th century and features a beautiful central courtyard. Admission for foreigners is COP$10,000 (as of April 2024).

House of the Marquis of San Jorge (Archaeological Museum of Bogotá) in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
House of the Marquis of San Jorge (Archaeological Museum of Bogotá)
Courtyard
Courtyard

The house was purchased in 1972 by Banco Popular. They converted it to the Archaeological Museum, which features a collection of 13,000 pieces of pre-Columbian art, including the largest collection of pre-Columbian ceramics in Colombia.

Archaeological Museum of Bogotá in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Archaeological Museum of Bogotá
Archaeological Museum of Bogotá
Archaeological Museum of Bogotá

 

Church of San Agustín

Across the street from Nariño Palace at Carrera 7 is the Church of San Agustín (Iglesia de San Agustín). It was built between 1642 and 1668 and was once part of a convent. On November 14, 1817, Colombian revolutionary Policarpa Salavarrieta (1795-1817) was executed at the church by firing squad and buried there.

Church of San Agustín in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Church of San Agustín

The church was confiscated by the government in 1862 and converted to a military barracks. It remained as such until 1938, and starting in 1954 the building was returned to its original purpose as a church. Restorations took place between 1954 and 1963, and again from 1980 to 1986.

Nave of the Church of San Agustín in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Nave
Paintings in the central nave of the Church of San Agustín
Paintings in the central nave

The Church of San Agustín has a nave that’s divided into three sections. Its Baroque altar is covered in gold leaf, and there are numerous paintings and wooden statues.

Main altar of the Church of San Agustín in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Main altar
Chapel at the Church of San Agustín
Chapel


 

Nariño Palace

The large building taking up the block between Carrera 7 and Carrera 8 is the Nariño Palace (Palacio de Nariño), the official residence and office of the President of Colombia. It was built between 1906 and 1908 on the site of the house where Colombian revolutionary Antonio Nariño (1765-1823) was born. It was designed by French architect Gaston Lelarge (1861-1934) and Colombian architect Julián Lombana (1839-1916).

Nariño Palace in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Nariño Palace

Among the exterior features are the Plaza de Armas, where foreign guests are received with honors, and the National Astronomical Observatory (Observatorio Astronómico Nacional). The National Astronomical Observatory was designed and built by Spanish architect and Capuchin friar Domingo de Petrés (1759-1811) between 1802 and 1803. It was the first observatory built in the Americas and its first director was Spanish priest and botanist José Celestino Mutis (1732-1808). The first steps towards Colombian independence were planned there.

Plaza de Armas and National Astronomical Observatory
Plaza de Armas and National Astronomical Observatory

Free tours of the Nariño Palace are available via a reservation form on the official website (as of April 2024). They last about an hour, and visitors are not allowed to bring bags, cameras, or phones. It’s best to leave them in your hotel or you may be denied entry. Wearing shorts or flip flops is not allowed.

Nariño Palace from Calle 7
Nariño Palace from Calle 7

Naturally, there’s a heavy security presence from the south of Plaza de Bolívar all the way to Calle 7, down both Carrera 8 and Carrera 7. You can pass through the security checkpoints by letting the police search your bags.

 

Cloister of Saint Augustine

Next, at the corner of Carrera 8 and Calle 7 is the Cloister of Saint Augustine (Claustro de San Agustín). It was built in the 18th century as part of a monastery and is a good example of ecclesiastical architecture in Bogotá. The cloister is unique in religious terms because it lacks its own church.

Cloister of Saint Augustine in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Cloister of Saint Augustine

Since its construction, the cloister has been used as a university, a military garrison, and a museum. On November 23, 1809, Antonio Nariño was arrested in the courtyard and taken to Cartagena the next day. The building is now owned by the National University of Colombia (Universidad Nacional de Colombia). They use it mainly for exhibitions and cultural events. Popping in only takes a minute and it’s free.

 

Francisco José de Caldas House Museum

Finally, tucked away on Carrera 8 south of Calle 7 is the Francisco José de Caldas House Museum (Casa Museo Francisco José de Caldas). It features exhibits on the life and work of Colombian military hero, naturalist, inventor, and mathematician Francisco José de Caldas (1768-1816). Admission is free (as of April 2024) and it’s open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4pm.

Francisco José de Caldas House Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Francisco José de Caldas House Museum
Francisco José de Caldas House Museum
Francisco José de Caldas House Museum

The house was built around 1770 and Caldas rented it in 1810. The museum opened in 1985. While the museum is very nicely done, it lacks any information in English and only enthusiasts of Colombian history will find it interesting enough to visit.

Francisco José de Caldas House Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Francisco José de Caldas House Museum
Francisco José de Caldas House Museum in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Francisco José de Caldas House Museum


 

Quinta de Bolívar

Behind the University of Los Andes and in the shadow of Monserrate is the Quinta de Bolívar. This mansion, built in 1800, was given to liberator Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) in 1820. He spent over 400 days there between 1820 and 1829.

Quinta de Bolívar in Bogotá, Colombia
Quinta de Bolívar

Adult admission for foreigners is US$10 paid in the equivalent in pesos (as of April 2024) while Colombian citizens and residents pay COP$6,000. Admission is free Wednesdays from 3pm to 5pm and the last Sunday of each month. It’s open daily except Mondays from 9am to 5pm. (Note: Foreigners used to be charged the same as Colombians. It’s ridiculous to try and suck US$10 out of their pockets while Colombians pay a little under US$2. The government should be embarrassed for treating foreigners like an ATM. There’s no way it’s worth visiting for that price.)

Quinta de Bolívar in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Quinta de Bolívar

There are several rooms are decorated with period furniture and other artifacts. One room displays the liberator’s bedroom and some personal effects, including his sword.

Office at Quinta de Bolívar in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Office
Dining room at Quinta de Bolívar in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Dining room
Bolívar's bedroom at Quinta de Bolívar in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Bolívar’s bedroom
Bolívar's bedroom at Quinta de Bolívar in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Bolívar’s bedroom

The home is surrounded by the Bolivarian Garden (Jardín Bolivariano), a beautiful botanical garden. In the garden is a monument to Bolívar with the flags of each country he liberated. The flags are placed in front of the shields of each country. When I visited, a wreath with a Korean sash had been placed in front of the bust of Bolívar.

Bolivarian Garden at Quinta de Bolívar in La Candelaria, Bogotá, Colombia
Bolivarian Garden
Monument to Bolívar at Quinta de Bolívar
Monument to Bolívar
Shield of Peru at Quinta de Bolívar
Shield of Peru

As you exit the mansion, there are several bronze cannons on display. Each one is labeled with more information about it, including the year it was made.

Cannons at Quinta de Bolívar
Cannons

 

Map of La Candelaria, Bogotá

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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