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Santa Marta is a city on the Caribbean coast of Colombia. It’s one of the oldest cities in the Western Hemisphere and a great base to visit some of the country’s natural wonders.
Introduction to Santa Marta
Santa Marta is the second oldest surviving European city in South America, founded in 1525. It’s also the place where the liberator Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) died, at La Quinta de San Pedro. With that kind of history, you would think it would have a lot to show for. It doesn’t have any star attractions to see, but it’s enjoyable enough to visit for at least a day.
Santa Marta sits on the Caribbean Sea and enjoys a milder climate than Cartagena. It’s relatively safe and the people are mostly friendly. It’s also a great base for trips to nearby Tayrona National Park and the base for many trips into La Guajira and Ciudad Perdida.
In my personal experience over several trips to Santa Marta, the historic city center has really changed for the better since my first visit in 2014. It’s a nice place to explore for a few hours.
Getting to Santa Marta
You have a few options on how to get to Santa Marta.
Simón Bolívar International Airport (SMR)
Simón Bolívar International Airport (Aeropuerto Internacional Simón Bolívar) is a good 25 minute drive from the city center. It’s a very small airport with only a few gates. Most flights are to Bogotá, but it’s possible to get direct flights to cities like Medellín, Cali, Pereira, and Panama City (as of September 2024).
MarSol Transfer Service
MarSol is a decent transfer service running shuttles from Cartagena or Barranquilla to Santa Marta. It’s a very easy door-to-door service that can be booked in advance by your hotel. The trip takes just over four hours from Cartagena and about two hours from Barranquilla. It costs about COP$70,000 to get to Cartagena and COP$35,000 to get to Barranquilla (as of April 2024). It’s not the most comfortable ride but it’s convenient.
Getting Around Santa Marta
The city center is very flat, compact, and easy to get around on foot. Everything you really need to see is between the blocks of Calle 12 and Calle 22 from north to south, and from the seaside to Carrera 5 from west to east. It’s not a very big area at all, and there’s not much to see much outside that area. If you want to get to La Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino or El Rodadero, you can take a taxi.
Beaches in Santa Marta
There’s a beach in the bay of Santa Marta but I wouldn’t swim there. There was a lot of garbage that had washed up and the port is very close. It’s better to go to the beach in the suburb of El Rodadero.
Where to Stay in Santa Marta
Santa Marta has a good selection of hotels for all budgets. I’ve stayed at a few of the hotels in the historic city center on my trips to the city. Many people also choose to stay at the upscale beach suburb of El Rodadero or the backpacker haven of Taganga.
Casa Mía
A decent place I’ve stayed at is Casa Mía, just off Parque de Los Novios. This small boutique hotel has cozy and spacious rooms with high ceilings and good air conditioning.
My room was perfect. The bed was very comfortable and it was very quiet at night. I loved the large bathroom and the shower was great.
The rooftop pool was nice to have. It was very clean and it helped me to relax in the afternoon after a long day of work.
Casa de Isabella
A short walk from Parque de Los Novios is Casa de Isabella. We had actually booked at its sister hotel, Casa de Leda, but were transferred there the day of our arrival because of construction at Casa de Leda.
The hotel has a great staff and pleasant common areas along with a small pool. A decent breakfast is served every morning.
My room was very comfortable, but my guests were put in a suite which stole the show. The suite came complete with a private stairway to a small terrace that had a pool.
Casa Carolina
A great place to stay is Casa Carolina. It’s located a little further from the entertainment zone and restaurants but still only a short walk away. This boutique hotel has done a wonderful job restoring a crumbling old building and turning it into a beautiful property.
The rooms surround a gorgeous patio with a swimming pool. A restaurant where a buffet breakfast is served sits just inside the entrance. On the top floor is a jacuzzi. The only negatives are that it lacks an elevator, so we were a little lazy to leave our fourth floor room. It’s also located on a street that hasn’t quite improved like other streets in Santa Marta. Still, it’s a great choice.
Our double room was comfortable, spacious, and quiet. It had a powerful air conditioning unit and was a nice place just to hang out and relax.
La Casa del Piano (Permanently Closed)
On my second trip with Marisol, we stayed at La Casa del Piano. It was great and had an excellent location. The rooms were very comfortable and the staff was great. It had a rooftop pool and terrace. A personalized breakfast was included every morning. It’s definitely worth the price of the room.
Hotel del Parque (Permanently Closed)
For my first trip we had booked a room at the Hotel Miami, but on arrival, they informed us that they had given our room away. They transferred us nearby to the Hotel del Parque, a small budget hotel with just a few rooms. It turned out to be for the better.
The host, Felipe, was very helpful and went out of his way to make sure we were comfortable. He speaks excellent English and was also able to help us with advice on tours and taxis.
Also, Hotel Miami sent breakfast to us every morning because it was included in their room rate while Hotel del Parque did not offer breakfast. We really appreciated that. (Note: Hotel Miami is also permanently closed).
Where to Eat in Santa Marta
There are several very good restaurants in the historic city center of Santa Marta to choose from. On each of my trips there, I’ve had a hard time deciding where to eat, whether to stick with favorites or to try new places. There are many choices such as traditional Colombian food, seafood, burgers, Mediterranean, pizza, and pasta.
La Canoa
One of my favorite places to eat is at a French bakery called La Canoa. It’s set inside a house with interesting photography on the walls.
For starters, we like bruschetta del mar (bruschetta with shrimp and guacamole). I usually get the panini cyrano (chicken, cheese, tomato, and avocado) and a mixed mango and maracuyá juice. The ceviche is also decent. Too bad I never have room to try some of the fresh pastries!
Ouzo
A Greek and Mediterranean restaurant called Ouzo is located at Parque de Los Novios. The interior is decorated with whitewashed walls and flower boxes giving a visitor the feeling of being on a Greek island. There’s also outdoor seating.
The service is good and the food is delicious, but many of the menu items marked as authentic Greek specialties are not authentic at all. However, the menu is full of creative dishes that are worth a try. Also, if you’re looking to drink ouzo, it’s surprisingly not on the menu.
We had the midia saganaki (mussels) as a starter and the keftedes (meatballs – the closest authentic Greek dish on the menu) as a main course. Marisol had the gyros, which was good but definitely a different style than what I’m used to.
On another visit, I tried the grilled octopus starter and the Mediterranean salmon as my main dish. Both were excellent.
Donde Chucho
If you’re looking for a good fish and seafood restaurant, you can head to a place on Parque de Los Novios called Donde Chucho, which also has a branch in El Rodadero. We sat outside on the park and really enjoyed every minute of our meal. If you try one seafood restaurant in Santa Marta, make sure it’s Donde Chucho.
On my first visit, I started off with French onion soup and had salmón al ajillo (garlic salmon) as my main course. Anna had the róbalo (whitefish). Both of our meals were phenomenal.
On my second trip with Marisol, I had the lobster and she had the cazuela de mariscos. The lobster was a bit disappointing, so I would stick to the fish.
Lulo
Lulo is a restaurant that specializes in a unique twist on the Colombian staple, the arepa. Marisol and I started with a ceviche dish and each had an arepa. I had lula marina arepa (ceviche, mango, and avocado) while she had the lulita arepa (chicken filet and tropical salad). We each had a smoothie. The food was excellent and reasonably priced. It’s well worth a visit. In addition to arepas, there are several paninis and wraps on the menu.
Gnam Gelateria
To satisfy your sweet tooth, head to Gnam Gelateria, which is located next door to Lulo. They have a good variety of flavors including many tropical Colombian fruits.
Mi Oficina
For an early and cheap breakfast, we ate at Mi Oficina, just a block from the park. Scrambled eggs and orange juice were very reasonably priced. They also have great milkshakes. I tried the maracuyá (passionfruit) while my cousin Anna had the Oreo milkshake. They make decent mojitos as well.
Pame Na Fame (Permanently Closed)
This small Greek restaurant is located just a block from Parque de Los Novios, a bit away from where the tourists linger, but it’s worth seeking out. (Note: another branch in El Rodadero is open.)
They serve very authentic favorites such as souvlaki, gyros, moussaka, Greek salad, and baklava. I had an amazing platter featuring three different souvlaki skewers, fries, salad, and tzatziki. The next day I came back for a Greek salad.
The restaurant is owned by Petros, one of the partners from Grecia Café y Suvlaki in Cartagena, which is now permanently closed, but still has the same delicious flavor. Petros is from Thessaloniki.
Absurdo (Permanently Closed)
I took a tour group to Absurdo, which is located a half block from Parque de Los Novios. They serve grilled meats and fish, salads, and a couple sandwiches. I had a pulled pork sandwich while my guests had salmon and chicken. The food was delicious and not heavy at all.
Hemingway (Permanently Closed)
Hemingway is a restaurant with a rooftop terrace overlooking Parque de Los Novios. While the setting and service were nice, the food was disappointing. We started with the tomates caprese (tomato, mozzarella, and basil) and ceviche pescado (Fish Ceviche). Those were good, but it was downhill from there.
My main meal, camarones a la diabla (spicy shrimp served over a bed of mashed potatoes) came out cold and lacked the flavor I had expected. Anna had a pasta with pesto sauce. The pasta was a little overcooked. Maybe they were having an off night, but at the very least the terrace is a great place to enjoy some drinks.
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Malecón of Santa Marta
The malecón is a great place to start exploring Santa Marta. It’s a seaside promenade that runs for about 10 blocks in a north-south direction. There’s a small but dirty beach and several street vendors along the way. All along the promenade are statues of the indigenous Tairona people.
Marina
First, at the southern end of the malecón is the marina. If you walk along the marina, there’s another small beach. There’s also a pier extending along the marina with a few restaurants.
Quinta Campo Serrano
Across from the marina is the Quinta Campo Serrano. This historic mansion was built around 1920 by Santa Marta mayor Manuel Julián de Mier Aldama. Its design was based on French castles and it was originally called El Castillo. In 1936, the governor of the department of Magdalena, Joaquín Campo Serrano Riascos, purchased the house and gave it its current name. The house has hosted important visitors to the city and has also been used for commercial purposes.
Hospital San Juan de Dios
On Carrera 1, facing the southern end of the malecón, is the former Hospital San Juan de Dios. It was founded in 1746 and remained a hospital until 1813. Between 1813 and 1880, it was used as a barracks and later a medical school. In 1880, it became a charity hospital until it was abandoned in 1991, when the new Santa Marta hospital opened. It currently holds the department of Magdalena’s culture and tourism office, historical archives, and a passport office.
Chapel of San Juan de Dios
Just east of the former hospital, along Calle 22, is the Chapel of San Juan de Dios (Capilla San Juan de Dios). This small chapel was built in 1746 at the same time as the hospital. Friends and family of the sick who were taken to the hospital would come to pray in the chapel.
Rodrigo de Bastidas Monument
At the northern end of the malecón, where Parque de Bolívar meets the sea, is a monument dedicated to Rodrigo de Bastidas (c. 1465-1527). He was a Spanish conquistador and the founder of Santa Marta, and is buried in the Santa Marta Cathedral.
Parque de Bolívar
Parque de Bolívar is the main plaza in the historic city center of Santa Marta. When it was originally built in the late 18th century, it was known as Plaza de Armas and served a military function.
Today, Parque de Bolívar is a long stretch of trees and shrubs followed by a large open space. It’s surrounded by some important buildings as well.
In the center is a statue of liberator Simón Bolívar (1783-1830), sculpted in 1953 by Italian artist Leone Tommasi. It was a gift to Colombia from Venezuela.
The fountain near the east end of the park was unveiled in 1848 and is the oldest fountain in Santa Marta. It’s called the Fountain of the Four Faces (Fuente de Las Cuatro Caras) and features Persephone on the upper part. The four masks represent the four cardinal directions.
A statue of Colombian Nobel Prize winning author Gabriel García Márquez (1927-2014) was relocated to the park temporarily in March 2021. It was made by Óscar Noriega, an artist from Cartagena, and was originally displayed in the author’s hometown of Aracataca.
Santa Marta City Hall
First, on the northeast side of the square, is the Santa Marta City Hall (Alcaldía). It was originally built in the 17th century and served as the Consistorial House for the Spanish government. A prison made up the ground floor and once held Antonio Nariño (1765-1823), a hero of Colombian independence.
Customs House
Just west of City Hall is the historic Customs House (Casa de la Aduana), which was originally built in the 16th century. Brothers Domingo and Nicolás Jimeno added the second floor in 1730. In 1819, the customs office moved into the building, giving it its current name. In December 1830, Simón Bolívar was a guest in the building shortly before he passed away at La Quinta de San Pedro. His wake was held there.
Tairona Gold Museum
The Tairona Gold Museum (Museo del Oro Tairona) has occupied the Customs House since December 17, 1980. It’s a great museum and admission is free (as of September 2024). It’s open daily except Mondays.
Inside is a good explanation of the history of Santa Marta, a timeline of the life of Simón Bolívar, and an ethnographic section about the people of the region. You can also see authentic pieces of gold forged by the indigenous people as well as other artifacts.
Parque Venezuela
Between the Customs House and City Hall is a small park called Parque Venezuela. A house that once sat on the site was owned by Carlos Soublette (1789-1870), a three-time president of Venezuela. There are also cafés located there.
Library of the Bank of the Republic
On the northwest side of the square is the Santa Marta branch of the Library of the Bank of the Republic (Biblioteca Banco de la República). It opened in 2001.
Casa de los Alzamora
Finally, on the south side of the square directly opposite the Customs House is the Casa de los Alzamora. It was built near the end of the 17th century by Manuel Epalza de Hoyos. Politician Manuel Murillo Toro (1816-1880), who served as president of Colombia, installed a printing press in the building in 1847 to publish La Gaceta Mercantil, the country’s first economic newspaper. The building currently houses the city’s waterworks and sewer offices.
House of the Viceroys
Detouring a block north of Parque de Bolívar on Calle 12 is the House of the Viceroys (Casa de Los Virreyes). It was built in 1799 by Royal Treasurer Francisco Xavier de Ainzuriza and is one of the oldest homes remaining in the city from the Spanish colonial period.
Casa Goenaga
A few steps east is Casa Goenaga. It was built in 1916 by the governor of the department of Magdalena, Florentino Goenaga Gómez. It later served as the San Pedro Alejandrino Library (Biblioteca San Pedro Alejandrino), a Colombian law library with over 10,000 volumes; the French Alliance (Alianza Francesa), which operated an art gallery, French language academy, and cultural center; and the Santa Marta town hall administrative offices.
Plaza de San Francisco
About a block east of Parque de Bolívar is the Plaza de San Francisco, which once served as the city’s public market.
Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi (Iglesia de San Francisco de Asís) sits on the plaza. It was originally built in 1597. In 1676, Welsh pirate Sir Henry Morgan (c. 1635-1688) occupied the temple and converted it to a prison. The church was partially destroyed in an earthquake in 1834 and rebuilt in 1860.
Cathedral Plaza
A few blocks south down Carrera 4 is Cathedral Plaza (Plaza de la Catedral). It dates back to the late 18th century and contains some of the most beautiful buildings in the city.
Santa Marta Cathedral
The Santa Marta Cathedral (Catedral de Santa Marta) was built between 1766 and 1794. The remains of liberator Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) were kept there from December 1830 to November 1842, when they were moved to his birthplace, Caracas, Venezuela.
Inside the entrance to the cathedral are the remains of Rodrigo de Bastidas (c. 1465-1527), founder of Santa Marta. He sailed with Christopher Columbus on his second voyage to the New World in 1493. In 1499, he was the first European to visit Panama and also named the Magdalena River in 1501.
District Council Building
On the north side of the plaza is a beautiful building built in 1914 as the District Council Building (Edificio del Consejo Distrital). Other municipal offices are now housed in the building.
Casa Corazza Hermanos
On the northwest side is the Casa Corazzo Hermanos. It’s a late colonial era house that has since been converted into the Republican style. In 1853, Colombian poet and politician José Eusebio Caro Ibáñez died in the house. In 1884, Gregorio Castañeda Aragón, another Colombian poet and author, was born there.
Episcopal Palace
On the southwest side of the plaza is the Episcopal Palace (Palacio Episcopal), built in 1745. It was the home of the bishop of Santa Marta and has also served as the governor’s house as well as a private residence.
Casa Campo Serrano
On the south side of the plaza is Casa Campo Serrano. It’s quite run down and needs a lot of work, but it’s still a fantastic building. Built in the second half of the 18th century, it was the birthplace of José María Campo Serrano (1832-1915), the only native of Santa Marta to ever serve as Colombia’s president (1886-87). It currently holds the offices for the country’s national park service.
Casa de Madame Augustine
Finally, on the southwest corner of the plaza is the Casa de Madame Augustine. It’s older than the Santa Marta Cathedral and is very important to the city architecturally. The building is named after Joseline Henríquez (aka Madame Augustine), the French wife of a Swiss entrepreneur, Marcelo Mathieu, who settled in Santa Marta and purchased the house in 1825.
Post Office
Heading west down Calle 16 is the well-preserved former Post Office (Casa del Correo). It was built in the middle of the 18th century and is now used for commercial purposes.
House of the Marquis of Santa Coa
A block further west of the Post Office is the House of the Marquis of Santa Coa (Casa del Marqués de Santa Coa). It was the home of one of the richest families in the city, the Mier y Benítez family, who owned many estates, businesses, and buildings in Santa Marta. It was built around 1800 by Gabriel Díaz Granados and sold to the Mier y Benítez family who gave the house its name. Recently, it has hosted commercial space.
Royal Conciliar Seminary of San Juan Nepomuceno
A block south along Carrera 2 is the Royal Conciliar Seminary of San Juan Nepomuceno (Real Seminario Conciliar San Juan Nepomuceno), which was one of the most important religious centers during colonial times. Construction started in 1671 and wasn’t completed until 1811. It was given its current name in 1842, and has housed several different educational institutions as well as government offices. Since 2001, it has been the home of the Magdalena University (Universidad del Magdalena) cultural center, art museum, and ethnography museum.
Casa Ujueta
On the opposite corner is Casa Ujueta, which is in terrible condition. The owner of this house, which was built in the 18th century, was Manuel Ujueta y Bisais, a friend of Simón Bolívar. In 1837, when he heard Bolívar’s tomb was damaged, he spared no expense to repair it. Ujueta also held the liberator’s remains in his house for three days to protect them from his enemies, who had planned to steal them and dump them into the sea. The remains were later taken to the Santa Marta Cathedral.
Casa Noguera
Just east of Casa Ujueta, along Calle 17, is Casa Noguera, which was built in the 18th century and is very well preserved. It was owned for several years by the Noguera family. In 1882, there was a store selling fruits that were grown on the property. Nowadays, it serves as the city’s public registration office.
Parque de Los Novios
A couple blocks south down Carrera 3 you’ll find Parque de Los Novios. It’s a very popular place to visit in Santa Marta, with the main attraction being the restaurants with outdoor seating. It has some monuments in the middle and is surrounded by a few important buildings.
The park has served many functions throughout history. There was a military fortification there in the early 19th century followed by butcher shops and a public market from 1834 to 1881. It received its current name in the early 20th century because lovers would gather there every evening to listen to the bands that played in the square. The park was officially named Parque Santander in 1960 after a monument to Francisco de Paula Santander (1792-1840) was erected in the center.
While the daytime is relatively sleepy, the park and surrounding streets come alive at night. The atmosphere completely changes after sunset.
Palace of Justice
The Palace of Justice (Palacio de Justicia) sits on the southern end of the park. It was completed in 1926.
School #4
On the west end of the square is a building which once housed School #4 (Escuela Cuarta). This school, which opened in 1928 as the San Luis Gonzaga Public School for Girls (Escuela Pública Para Niñas de San Luis Gonzaga), had a capacity of 600 students. In 1940, it became School #4. It was restored in 2008 and is now used as part of the city’s judicial complex.
Streets Off Parque de Los Novios
A pedestrianized section of Carrera 3 runs between Parque de Los Novios and Parque de Bolívar. The street is full of restaurants with outdoor seating, street vendors, and sometimes musicians adding to the atmosphere. During my very first visit in 2014, it was a quiet street with not much going on. What a difference a few years makes! The photos below show the exact same scene on a typical day about 5 years apart.
Calle 19 is similar to Carrera 3, but it’s wider and has more hotels along it. There are also restaurants, bars, and cafés with outdoor seating.
Artisan Center
If you’re into shopping, there is the Artisan Center (Centro Artesenal) where you can find all kinds of arts, handmade crafts, jewelry, and souvenirs of Colombia. It’s located a couple blocks west of Parque de Los Novios.
Murals in Santa Marta
Wandering around the historic center of Santa Marta, you’ll be able to spot some interesting and impressive street art. There are murals on most streets in the city.
El Pibe Monument
One of the highlights of Santa Marta is paying a quick visit to the Carlos “El Pibe” Valderrama monument, which is located a short drive east of the historic city center. It’s the most visited monument in the city.
Carlos Valderrama was one of the greatest Colombian and South American footballers of all time. Born in Santa Marta, his signature hairstyle and playmaking ability quickly endeared him to Colombian fans. He’s often referred to by his nickname, El Pibe (The Kid). Valderrama played for several teams during his career, including teams in Colombia, France, Spain, and the United States.
The statue was erected in 2002 after he retired from his illustrious 22 year career, which included 14 years as a member of the Colombian national team. It was created by Colombian artist Amilkar Ariza and stands outside Estadio Eduardo Santos. The monument is 22 feet (6.7 meters) high.
The stadium was built in 1951 and closed permanently in 2013 due to structural concerns. It was the home of Unión Magdalena, which was Valderrama’s very first team from 1981 to 1984. Unión Magdalena now play in Estadio Sierra Nevada, which opened on November 11, 2017, for the Bolivarian Games.
La Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino
La Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino is one of the most important attractions in Santa Marta. It’s located about a 15 minute drive from the city center. It’s a peaceful green area tucked away within the sprawl of the modern city, but you wouldn’t know it by being there.
La Quinta de San Pedro not only has the city’s botanical gardens, but it is also historically significant to nearly all of Latin America. The 17th century home on the grounds is where Simón Bolívar (1783-1830), liberator of Colombia, Panama, Venezuela, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia, died in 1830.
La Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino is open at 9AM daily. Admission is COP$25,000 for foreigners over 13, COP$17,000 for kids age 6-12, and free for kids under 6 (as of September 2024). Guided tours are offered in English and Spanish for tips. Check the official website (in Spanish) for more information. A taxi is the easiest way to get there.
Botanical Garden
After entering, the first things you will see are the many trees and plants on the grounds and a small bridge that Bolívar crossed when he arrived at the house. Many of the trees are labeled in Spanish and English with their origin.
The most impressive is a giant fig tree from Asia. Its branches sprawl across the footpaths and strangle other trees to make them all look like one giant tree with several trunks.
Historic Buildings
Next, you’ll come to the mill and the distillery. They don’t leave much to the imagination and are not in great condition.
The actual home where Bolívar died is next to the mill. It has a beautifully manicured courtyard with palm trees and plants.
The interior contains rooms with authentic furniture, including the bed where Bolívar died. Some of the rooms contain art and artifacts about the life of El Libertador. One room contains a life sized mold of him lying in state, constructed using his death mask. It’s forbidden to take photos inside the rooms.
Mural
A large mural by Peruvian artist Mauro Rodriguez sits on the grounds. It explains the life and death of Bolívar and the struggle for independence. It was created in 1988.
Altar of the Fatherland
The most prominent building on the site is the Altar of the Fatherland (Altar de la Patria), built in 1930. It’s a pantheon that pays tribute to Bolívar. The path leading up to the building is the Plaza of the Flags (Plaza de las Banderas). It’s flanked by flags from every country in the Americas, making for a dramatic scene.
The exterior panel features a relief from the scene of Bolívar’s deathbed. Inside is an incredible monument depicting him in a godlike manner with two angels at either side.
Bolivarian Museum
The Bolivarian Museum (Museo Bolivariano) is near the Altar of the Fatherland. It contains several works of modern art and sculpture, along with the Joaquín de Mier y Benítez Theatre (Teatro Joaquín de Mier y Benítez), an outdoor amphitheater, .
Map of La Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino
