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Cağaloğlu is a neighborhood in the Fatih district of Istanbul. It’s located northwest of Sultanahmet and south of Sirkeci.
Introduction to Cağaloğlu
Cağaloğlu is named for Cağaloğlu Yusuf Sinan Pasha (1545-1605), a Grand Vizier under Mehmed III for 40 days in 1596 and Grand Admiral (Kaptan-ı Derya) of the Ottoman Navy. He was born to Genoese parents as Scipione Cicala, either in Genoa or Messina, and was captured during the Battle of Djerba. He was forced to convert to Islam, conscripted into the Ottoman army, and quickly rose through the ranks.
Cağaloğlu Hamam
If you walk west down Yerebatan Street from the Basilica Cistern, you’ll enter the Cağaloğlu neighborhood and eventually come to the Cağaloğlu Hamam (Cağaloğlu Hamamı). It was the last hamam built during the Ottoman Empire, opening in 1741. The bath was built to raise revenue for the Library of Sultan Mahmud I, which is located in Hagia Sophia. Its original name was the New Hamam (Yeni Hamam).
Although it can get quite expensive, Cağaloğlu Hamam is one of the best places in Istanbul to experience a traditional Turkish bath. Various packages are available for both men and women. I have been there several times myself and recommended it to family and friends visiting the city. Everyone has left satisfied with the service and experience. Reservations are highly recommended.
Hadım Hasan Pasha Madrasa
Across the street is the Hadım Hasan Pasha Madrasa (Hadım Hasan Paşa Medresesi). It was built in 1596 by Grand Vizier Hadım Hasan Pasha (d. 1598) and also contained a fountain and shops. The tomb belonging to Hadım Hasan Pasha has not survived. This is one of the rare examples of a madrasa without a courtyard. The architect was Davud Ağa (c. 1540-1599).
Iranian Consulate
At the next corner is the Consulate General of the Islamic Republic of Iran. It was built as the Iranian Embassy in 1866 by Ottoman Italian architect Giorgio Domenico Stampa. This was the very first diplomatic mission allowed in the old city.
Istanbul High School
Behind the consulate is Istanbul High School (İstanbul Lisesi). Originally the Istanbul Boys High School (İstanbul Erkek Lisesi), it’s one of the oldest and most prestigious high schools in Turkey. The building was built in 1882 by Ottoman French architect Alexander Vallaury (1850-1921) and Italian architect Raimondo D’Aronco (1857-1932) as the offices of Ottoman Public Debt Administration (Düyun-u Umumiye).
The high school moved in in 1933 and has been co-ed since 1964. The primary languages of instruction are Turkish and German, while English is a secondary language. Germany recognizes the school as a German International School (Deutsche Auslandsschule).
Rüstem Pasha Madrasa
A bit further downhill past the school is the Rüstem Pasha Madrasa (Rüstem Paşa Medresesi). It was commissioned by Grand Vizier Rüstem Pasha (c. 1505-1561) and completed by architect Mimar Sinan (1490-1588) in 1551. The madrasa provided religious education until 1869. It was restored between 2006 and 2011.
The madrasa features an octagonal courtyard with an ablutions fountain (şadırvan) in the center. It had 22 student rooms and classrooms covered by domes. Since 1987, the structure has hosted the Social Assistance and Solidarity Foundation of Eminönü. It also contains the Bediüzzaman Museum (Bediüzzaman Said Nursi ve Risale-i Nur Müzesi), which is dedicated to Kurdish Sunni Muslim theologian Said Nursî (1877-1960). The madrasa was closed when I walked by.
Istanbul Governorship
Back to the Iranian Consulate, if you head a block north down Ankara Street you’ll come to the Istanbul Governorship (İstanbul Valiliği). Built in 1756, it originally held the offices of the Grand Vizier and was part of the Sublime Porte until the foundation of the Turkish Republic. When the government moved to Ankara, it was converted into the offices of the Governor of the Istanbul Province.
Vilayet Mosque
To the left of the Governorship is the Vilayet Mosque (Vilayet Camii). Also known as the Nallı Masjid (Nallı Mescit) it was originally built by Imam Ali Efendi in the mid-15th century. It was once enclosed within the Sublime Porte complex but burned down in the mid-19th century. The mosque was rebuilt in 1869 and restored in 2013.
The original colors of the Vilayet Mosque were yellow and beige. It contains details most often seen in Indian and Iranian architecture. The mosque is quite small, at only 8.5 x 8.5 meters.
Hacı Beşir Ağa Mosque
Finally, walking back towards Sultanahmet past the Governorship is the Hacı Beşir Ağa Mosque (Hacı Beşir Ağa Camii). It was built in 1745 by Hacı Beşir Ağa (1654-1746), the Chief Black Eunuch of Topkapi Palace who also built a fountain in Sultanahmet.
The mosque contains a beautiful fountain on the eastern corner, now functioning as a canteen. The courtyard once featured a library but the books have been moved to the Süleymaniye Library at the Süleymaniye Mosque Complex. There was also a medical school.
The Hacı Beşir Ağa Mosque was restored in 2009. It’s considered to be a Baroque mosque although it’s very simple in design and decoration.
