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Şehzadebaşı is a neighborhood in the Fatih district of Istanbul. It’s included in the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Historic Areas of Istanbul, under the Suleymaniye Mosque and its Associated Component Area.
Vezneciler Square
The Vezneciler metro station, which also serves Beyazıt Square, Laleli, Saraçhane, Vefa, and Süleymaniye, opens onto the small Vezneciler Square (Vezneciler Meydanı). An important event in the history of Turkish independence took place there. On March 16, 1920, British troops occupying Constantinople came to Şehzadebaşı early in the morning and raided the 10th Division Police Headquarters. Their goal was to try and quash a Turkish national movement.
They first killed a security guard and an officer who had run towards the door, then entered the barracks and killed four soldiers. 15 soldiers were also wounded in the event, which in turn triggered sympathy for the Turkish national struggle. A historic marker in the square commemorates the event.
Byzantine Church Ruins
Also near the metro station are the ruins of a Byzantine church. It was first discovered in 1971-72 during an excavation for the addition of a building for Istanbul University (İstanbul Üniversitesi). The ruins were transported to their current location in 2015 during construction of the Vezneciler metro station.
The church may date back to the 6th century and its dedication is unknown. Only a portion of the narthex and the complete eastern section of the apse survive. A set of interpretive panels at the site give detailed information on the ruin’s discovery and transfer to its current location.
Kuyucu Murad Pasha Madrasa
East of the church ruins on Vezneciler Avenue is the Kuyucu Murad Pasha Madrasa (Kuyucu Murad Paşa Medresesi). It was built in 1610 by Kuyucu Murad Pasha (1535-1611) as part of a larger complex. The madrasa had 14 cells and contains the tomb of Kuyucu Murad Pasha, who served as Grand Vizier under Sultan Ahmed I. The architect is unknown.
Kalenderhane Mosque
The Kalenderhane Mosque (Kalenderhane Camii) is a short walk north of Vezneciler Square. It’s one of the lesser-known Byzantine structures in the city that’s been converted to a mosque.
The mosque is typically open to the public after 11am. On my most recent visit, I arrived after 10am and it was closed. I went around the corner, had a coffee, came back after 11am, and it was open.
Origins as a Church
The Kalenderhane Mosque was originally built as a Byzantine church and was most likely dedicated to the Theotokos Kyriotissa (Θεοτόκου Κυριώτισσας). The church may date to between 1197 and 1204. Before the church, the first building on the site was a Roman bath followed by a 6th century church and a larger 7th century church.
During the Latin occupation of Constantinople, it was used by Crusaders as a Catholic church administered by Franciscan priests. The church was surrounded by a monastery complex, but those buildings disappeared during the Ottoman period.
Ottoman Uses
After the Fall of Constantinople in 1453, the church was personally assigned to the Qalandari dervish sect by Mehmed the Conqueror. They used it as a monastery and soup kitchen, making it the first dervish lodge in the city.
In 1746, Hacı Beşir Ağa, the Chief Black Eunuch (kızlar ağası) of Topkapi Palace, built a minbar and mihrab in the building and officially converted it into the Kalenderhane Mosque. The mosque was restored after fires and earthquakes in 1855 and again between 1880 and 1890. It was abandoned in the 1930s after lighting destroyed the minaret.
Restoration
From 1966 to 1975, the building was restored to its 12th century appearance and studied by Cecil L. Striker and Doğan Kuban (1926-2021). During the restoration, frescoes were discovered over the main entrance to the narthex and in a chapel. After this period, the mosque reopened to worship.
A large pre-iconoclastic Byzantine mosaic and a cycle of 13th century Catholic frescoes depicting St. Francis of Assisi have been removed and are on display at the Istanbul Archaeology Museums. They’re the oldest known representation of the saint.
The building is on a Greek cross plan. Several original Byzantine features can be seen, including marble panels on the walls, icon frames, and columns.
Outside the mosque, to the left of the entrance is a small yard with fragments of columns and other architectural elements. What seem to be the foundations of other buildings that were once attached to it are also visible.
Damat Ibrahim Pasha Complex
Heading west down Şehzadebaşı Avenue is the Damat Ibrahim Pasha Complex (Damat İbrahim Paşa Külliyesi). It contained a madrasa, mosque, library, fountain, and shops.
The Damat Ibrahim Pasha Complex was built in 1720 by Nevşehirli Damat Ibrahim Pasha (1666-1730), a Grand Vizier under Sultan Ahmed III and the husband of Ahmed III’s daughter, Fatma Sultan (1704-1733). The tomb of Nevşehirli Damat Ibrahim Pasha sits in front of the mosque on Şehzadebaşı Avenue.
It’s possible to peek into the courtyard of the complex along Dede Efendi Street. An octagonal fountain sits in the center of the courtyard.
Center of Constantinople
Across the street from the Damat Ibrahim Pasha Complex is a green marble pillar that once indicated the old center of Constantinople. It’s built into the corner wall of the Şehzade Mosque cemetery.
According to one story, Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan (1490-1588) wanted to build the Şehzade Mosque, which is covered in another post, in the exact center of the city. Once he finished measuring the area surrounded by the city walls, he placed the pillar on the spot he determined to be the center. Another story says the Byzantines had a sign on the same spot indicating the center of Constantinople, and Mimar Sinan simply replaced the old sign with the pillar.
Şehzadebaşı Water Level
A few steps further down the road is the Şehzadebaşı Water Level (Şehzadebaşı Su Terazisi). It’s one of the rare examples of an Ottoman water level that has survived in good condition. This particular water level was built in 1755 to relieve pressure on the water system. It sits atop the walls of the Şehzade Mosque complex.
Ottoman Buildings at Şehzadebaşı
Finally, wandering around Şehzadebaşı is rewarding for lovers of Ottoman architecture. There are a handful of run-down and restored Ottoman buildings to spot throughout the neighborhood, especially along a short stretch of Süleymaniye Street near the Vezneciler metro entrance.
Süleymaniye Çikolatacısı
Finally, if you’re looking to satisfy your sweet tooth, check out Süleymaniye Çikolatacısı. It’s a few steps from the Vezneciler metro stop and around the corner from the Kalenderhane Mosque.
Situated in a historic Ottoman building, Süleymaniye Çikolatacısı has a good selection of handmade chocolates to take home, but they also have a full menu of ice creams, coffees, and other treats.
My favorites are the cold chocolate drink and the ferahfezâ, which is a refreshing mixture of strawberry, lemon, and orange juice.
