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Cihangir is a bohemian neighborhood south of Taksim Square in Istanbul, Turkey. It consists of several cafés scattered throughout its narrow streets.
Introduction to Cihangir
The neighborhood was a wooded hunting ground during the time of Süleyman the Magnificent. It didn’t become a significant settlement until the late 19th century when several Europeans purchased land there. Non-Muslim residents began leaving or were forced out in the 1930s and Cihangir became a neighborhood of migrants and workers.
In the 1970s, Cihangir began to attract artists, actors, and intellectuals. It continues to be a popular place for the intellectual community as well as expats. In 2013, it was a stronghold for Gezi Park protesters.
There’s not much to see in the neighborhood as a tourist, but it’s a great place to live. I lived there for seven months in 2011 and have very fond memories. At that time it was considered one of the best places to live in Istanbul. In 2012, it was also named as one of the top five places in the world to live.
Firuzağa Mosque
First, on the corner where Cihangir meets the antiques district of Çukurcuma, is the Firuzağa Mosque (Firuzağa Camii). It was originally built in 1491 by Firuz Ağa, the head treasurer of Sultan Bayezid II. It was destroyed by fire on March 11, 1823, and rebuilt by Mahmud II. The mosque sits atop retail space and there are several cafés and restaurants nearby.
Orhan Kemal Museum
A couple blocks south is the Orhan Kemal Museum (Orhan Kemal Müzesi). It’s dedicated to Turkish novelist Orhan Kemal (1914-1970), who lived in the house. On display are books, personal items, and photographs as well as his death mask. The museum is open daily except Sundays and admission is 80₺ (as of July 2024).
Cihangir Park
Winding through the streets a few blocks away is Cihangir Park (Cihangir Parkı). This tiny space is one of the only open-air refuges in the neighborhood.
Sadık Pasha Mansion
About a block south of Cihangir Park is the Sadık Pasha Mansion. This neoclassical wooden home was built in the mid 19th century by Michał Czajkowski (1804-1886), a Polish writer who was also known as Mehmet Sadık Pasha. He was sent to Constantinople to arrange political asylum for Polish and Hungarian refugees. Although it looks quite run down from the street, it occasionally hosts art exhibitions.
Cihangir Mosque
A few steps from the Sadık Pasha Mansion is the Cihangir Mosque (Cihangir Camii). It was originally a wooden mosque built in 1559 by Mimar Sinan (c. 1490-1588) and reconstructed in 1889.
The mosque was built to commemorate the death of Şehzade Cihangir (1531-1553), the son of Süleyman the Magnificent. The neighborhood takes its name from the mosque, which is usually open only for prayers.
Even if the mosque itself is closed, it’s worth popping into the courtyard for the fantastic views over the Bosporus.
Rainbow Stairs
Finally, you can walk down to Fındıklı or Tophane using the famous rainbow stairs near the mosque. They’re located on Salı Pazarı Yokuşu.
Where to Eat in Cihangir
The trendy neighborhood of Cihangir has a good selection of restaurants and cafés to choose from. It’s especially popular for breakfast seekers.
Van Kahvaltı Evi
A must for visitors to Istanbul is Van Kahvaltı Evi, which is popular with both locals and tourists alike. Bring an appetite because this breakfast spot serves an incredible feast typical of Van, which is in Eastern Anatolia.
Order their traditional Van breakfast and a waiter will bring several different small dishes with dips, cheeses, olives, eggs, tomato, cucumber, honey, and lots of bread. A bottomless glass of tea is included, but the fresh juices are also worth a try.
Limon Kahvaltı Evi
Tucked in an alley behind the Firuzağa Mosque is Limon Kahvaltı Evi. This inviting little place serves up full Turkish breakfasts as well as other morning specialties. I was alone so opted for a menemen, which was delicious. I hope to be back with a few others next time to try the Turkish breakfast.
Greecology (Permanently Closed)
While exploring Cihangir one afternoon, I stopped into Greecology. This Greek and Mediterranean restaurant has a very inviting and comfortable decor.
The menu has a good selection of souvlaki and other Greek specialties. I had a chicken souvlaki for lunch and finished off with a Greek coffee. Overall, the food was decent but not authentic, and the chicken was a bit dry.
Admira Café (Permanently Closed)
Near the Firuzağa Mosque is Admira Café. I stopped there with my friend Emrullah for a quick coffee. The menu looked decent and there was a good crowd inside.
