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Elmadağ is a small neighborhood in the district of Şişli, Istanbul, Turkey. It sits very near to Taksim Square and the hotel zone of Talimhane. There’s not much to see in Elmadağ unless you’re into architecture.
Elmadağ Street
Most points of interests are pretty much along the first few blocks of Elmadağ Street walking downhill from Cumhuriyet Street.
Surp Agop Hospital
First, on the corner of Elmadağ Street and Cumhuriyet Street is Surp Agop Hospital (Surp Agop Hastanesi). Founded in 1837, it’s a private hospital run by the Armenian Catholic community. It owned the rights to the Pangaltı Armenian Cemetery, which was destroyed in the 1930s to develop Taksim Square, Gezi Park, and other buildings to the north. The cemetery was the largest non-Muslim cemetery in Istanbul history.
Elmadağ Townhomes
On the left side of the street are a row of townhomes that once housed elderly Armenians. They were under renovation when I last passed by. A huge shopping mall is being built behind them (as of January 2024) and only their façades will remain once it’s complete.
Arif Pasha Apartment
Across the street from the townhomes is the Arif Pasha Apartment (Arif Paşa Apartmanı). This imposing structure was built in 1902 for the Ottoman Empire’s last palace doctor, Sarıcazade Arif Pasha. It was designed by Ottoman Greek architect Constantin Pappa and contains 36 apartments around a Parisian-style courtyard.
The Arif Pasha Apartment was built for people who had to leave the palace and wanted to continue living the “palace life”. Each apartment has high ceilings and there are servants’ rooms in the attic. The apartments are popular with writers and artists. Notable residents include author Pınar Kür and pianist Ayşegül Sarıca (1935-2023).
Notre Dame de Sion French High School
Along Cumhuriyet Street to the north is Notre Dame de Sion French High School (Lycée Notre Dame de Sion / Notre Dame de Sion Özel Fransız Lisesi). The school was founded in 1856 and was the first ever girls school in the Ottoman Empire.
Notre Dame de Sion was closed during World War I but reopened in 1919. The school became co-educational in 1996.
St. Esprit Cathedral
St. Esprit Cathedral (Basilique-Cathédrale Saint-Esprit / Saint Esprit Kilisesi), also known as the Cathedral of the Holy Spirit, sits behind the walls of Notre Dame de Sion. It’s the second largest Catholic church in Istanbul. The courtyard of the church is accessed through the door at 127A Cumhuriyet Street.
St. Esprit Cathedral was built in 1846 by Swiss-Italian architect Giuseppe Fossati (1809-1883) and French architect Julien Hillereau. Italian composer Giuseppe Donizetti (1788-1856), who was the Instructor General of the Imperial Ottoman Music under Sultan Mahmud II, is buried in the church.
The church has witnessed visits by four popes, including Paul VI, John Paul II, Benedict XVI, and Francis. Angelo Roncalli, the future Pope John XXIII, served at the church when he was the Vatican’s Apostolic Delegate to Turkey from 1934 to 1944. In the courtyard, there’s a statue of Pope Benedict XV.
Nave of St. Esprit Cathedral
We visited on a Sunday morning for the English language mass and were impressed the moment we walked into the church.
The interior is gorgeous, with seemingly every square inch beautifully decorated. I was especially interested in the ornate designs on the ceiling.
Other than the beauty of the church, attending mass was a great experience. Every pew was full with several members of the congregation standing in the back and in the aisles. An enthusiastic group of Filipinos living in Istanbul sat up front and led the church in singing many songs. Many African migrants were also in attendance.
Even if you aren’t Catholic, it’s worth taking the time to visit St. Esprit Cathedral during mass. Besides being a beautiful service, getting to see the interior of the church in person is worth your time. Mass is held Monday through Saturday at 6pm in French. On Sundays, mass is in English at 10am followed by mass in French.
