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The bustling city of Bucaramanga is one of the most beautiful and cleanest cities in Colombia.
Introduction to Bucaramanga
Bucaramanga was founded on December 22, 1622. It was originally an indigenous town dependent on the nearby town of Girón and didn’t grow in population or significance until the early 19th century. In 1886, the city replaced Socorro as the capital of the department of Santander. It has grown rapidly since the 1960s.
Today, Bucaramanga is famous for the large number of parks in the city center and pleasant climate. It has earned the nicknames La Ciudad Bonita de Colombia (Colombia’s Beautiful City) and La Ciudad de Los Parques (The City of Parks).
Where to Eat in Bucaramanga
We only had one meal in the city and it was fantastic.
Isola di Sardegna (Permanently Closed)
One excellent restaurant near the park is Isola di Sardegna, an Italian restaurant with a lovely patio. It’s located just a few blocks south of Parque San Pío. The restaurant serves several different authentic Italian specialties, including pastas, meats, and fish, as well as a few desserts. The prices are a bit high, but the portion sizes, quality of the food, and excellent service make it worth a visit.
First, We were served a complimentary plate of bruschetta and also had a delicious octopus and potato starter.
Marisol had a seafood fettuccine with a calamari ink sauce while I had a seafood spaghetti dish. We both loved our meals, but it was a lot of food and we could barely finish. We would definitely go back again.
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Parque García Rovira
Bucaramanga was founded in what is now Parque García Rovira, making it a great place to start your exploration. While the city has since spread eastward, this plaza contains some of the most important government and historic buildings.
The center of Parque García Rovira is filled with tall palm trees and a monument to Custodio García Rovira (1780-1816), a hero of Colombia’s independence. The statue was created by German artist Xavier Arnold and erected in 1907.
Government Buildings in Bucaramanga
On opposite sides of the plaza are two government buildings. To the north is the Bucaramanga City Hall (Alcaldía). An interesting sculpture of a native Guane person being led by a Spanish soldier and Catholic priest sits to one side.
To the south is the Government of Santander (Gobernación de Santander), which holds the offices for the department of Santander.
Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows
On the west side of the plaza is the historic Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows (Capilla Nuestra Señora de los Dolores). It was built in the 17th century and is where Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) prayed during his stay in Bucaramanga. Unfortunately it was closed when we walked by.
Casa del Libro Total
Across the street from the chapel is the Casa del Libro Total, a colonial home built in 1890. It now serves as a library and cultural center. Art exhibitions and musical performances are often held there, and it’s typically open daily except Sundays.
Church of San Laureano
Finally, on the east side of Plaza García Rovira is the Church of San Laureano (Iglesia de San Laureano). The parish was founded in 1778. The current building was constructed between 1872 and 1897 and is the third church on the site. It’s got a bright yellow interior to match its exterior and a nice ceiling and gallery carved out of wood.
Plazoleta Luis Carlos Galán
Just east Parque García Rovira is Plazoleta Luis Carlos Galán. It’s named for journalist and two-time presidential candidate Luis Carlos Galán (1943-1989), who was assassinated on the orders of drug lord Pablo Escobar and politicians connected to him. A bust of Galán sits on the northeast corner of the plaza. while the Palace of Justice (Palacio de Justicia), which opened in 1950, dominates the north side.
Casa de Bolívar
One block south of Plazoleta Luis Carlos Galán, behind the Church of San Laureano, is the Casa de Bolívar. The liberator of Colombia and Venezuela, Simón Bolívar, lived in the house from April 1 to June 8, 1828. It now houses a historical museum dedicated to the department of Santander. On display are items used by Bolívar, Guane artifacts and mummies, and a history of the Santander department. Admission is COP$5,000 per person (as of February 2023) for a guided tour in Spanish, and it’s open daily except Sundays. Photos are forbidden inside the museum.
Parque Santander
Parque Santander is about eight blocks east of Parque García Rovira. It’s right at the heart of modern Bucaramanga.
The center of the park features a monument to Francisco de Paula Santander (1792-1840), an important Colombian military and political leader. There are also beautiful ornamental lamps with intricate bases, benches, and lots of vendors.
Cathedral of the Holy Family
On the south side of the park is the Cathedral of the Holy Family (Catedral de la Sagrada Familia). Construction began in 1898 but was interrupted a year later by the outbreak of the Thousand Days’ War. Work resumed in 1910 and it was finally completed in 1934. The church was elevated to a cathedral on December 14, 1974, by Pope Paul VI. It has a bright interior with some beautiful stained glass windows.
Club del Comercio
Also on the park is the Club del Comercio, founded in 1872 as the city’s premier high society social club. The building was built in the 1920s. Inside is a restaurant, bar, bowling alley, billiard room, squash court, salon, spa, and several elegant meeting rooms. It’s impossible to enter without permission or an invitation from a club member.
Centennial Park
Centennial Park (Parque Centenario) is just a couple blocks north of Parque Santander. It was founded in 1910 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of Colombian independence. During our visit, the park had a bad reputation for being full of undesirable characters. It was a bit neglected as well.
Thankfully, Centennial Park underwent a major revitalization after our visit. This includes the addition of several new trees and plants, the creation of space for cultural events and concerts, new furniture and lighting, and a water spray system for hot days. The park reopened to the public on March 1, 2024, and I look forward to seeing the results on a future visit.
In the center of the park is a monument to Aquileo Parra (1825-1900), who served as President of Colombia from 1876 to 1878. The bronze statue was created by Francisco Antonio Cano (1865-1935) in 1927 and erected in 1930.
Eastern Cultural Center
There are two buildings of note on Centennial Park. The most important is the Eastern Cultural Center (Centro Cultural del Oriente). It was built between 1898 and 1911 as a school and functioned as such until 1994. In 1999, it was remodeled and converted to a cultural center. On the back side is the Café del Oriente, which serves decent coffee and some pastries.
The building is beautiful but didn’t seem very inviting. We walked into one of the courtyards and there’s also the small Battle of Palonegro Military Museum (Museo Militar Batalla de Palonegro) located there. It’s typically open Monday through Saturday and admission is free (as of November 2024). Unfortunately, it was closed during our visit.
Santander Theatre
The other important building is the Santander Theatre. It opened in February 1932 and closed down in 2001. In 2006, locals got together and created a foundation in order to save the theatre. It was under renovation when we passed by and has since reopened.
Parque San Pío
Parque San Pío is a beautiful park on the east side of Bucaramanga. It’s in the more upscale area of the city near several restaurants, hotels, and shops. The very green park has several trees, paths, and benches as well as a playground and library.
A sculpture by Colombian artist Fernando Botero (1932-2023), Mujer de Pie Desnuda (Naked Woman Standing), sits on the west end of the park. It was previously displayed in Milan, Italy, and Saint-Tropez, France.
Parque del Agua
Parque del Agua, which is a bit out of the way on the east side of the city, features channels of water surrounded by beautiful gardens. The park is run by AMB, the public water company of Bucaramanga. They’ve done a wonderful job putting together and caring for the gardens on their property, and it was our favorite place to visit while in the city. The entrance is next to the main headquarters of AMB.
When we visited, Parque del Agua was open year-round. It’s now open only during the Christmas season from December through mid-January. Admission is COP$10,000 for adults and COP$3,000 for children (as of December 2023). It’s a shame because it’s the most peaceful and pleasant park Bucaramanga has to offer.
A path leads from the gates past the buildings and a concession stand to a boardwalk. There, you can see how nicely AMB has integrated the building into the gardens and water channels.
After walking along the boardwalk, the path takes you to a patio with a fountain and a view of the gardens.
From there, the path leads you along a series of channels to the lowest part of the park, where there are benches to sit and enjoy the scenery.
The boardwalk picks up and passes under a pedestrian bridge between the buildings. Along it is a pool of water full of fish and turtles. At the end is the path that leads back to the park entrance.
