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Villa de Leyva is one of the most picturesque and historic towns in Colombia. It’s located in the department of Boyacá.

 

Introduction to Villa de Leyva

Villa de Leyva, one of the country’s prestigious Heritage Towns (Pueblos Patrimonio), was founded on June 12, 1572, by André Diaz Venero de Leiva (1495-1578), the first president of the New Kingdom of Granada, on land originally inhabited by the Muisca people. It has gone relatively untouched by major development since then, giving it an air of authenticity.

Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Villa de Leyva

The cobblestone streets of the historic center and the excellent attractions near town have converted Villa de Leyva into a major tourist destination. Furthermore, the cooler temperatures and dry climate has seen several vineyards pop up in the area.

A house near Parque Ricaurte
A house near Parque Ricaurte
A house overlooking a creek near Parque Ricaurte
A house overlooking a creek near Parque Ricaurte

Overall, the town is a pleasant place to visit and spend a few days. There are excellent restaurants, plenty of good hotels, and a handful of lively festivals are held there annually.

A chocolate shop
A chocolate shop


 

Getting to Villa de Leyva

Villa de Leyva is only a few hours drive from Bogotá, making it a nice getaway from the hectic big city. The only way to get there is by bus or private vehicle, with the nearest major airport located in Bogotá.

The bus terminal is on the south side of town and has frequent connections to Bogotá, Chiquinquirá, and Tunja. You can also easily get to Ráquira and Sutamarchán.

Looking down a street in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Looking down a street

 

Getting Around Villa de Leyva

Villa de Leyva’s historic center is easily walkable. Everything is within a few blocks of Plaza Mayor. If you’re looking to visit other attractions outside of town, you can take a local bus or hire a taxi for the day.

Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Villa de Leyva

 

Tourist Information in Villa de Leyva

A tourist information office is located just off Plaza Mayor in the local government office. The friendly staff will be able to help you find attractions you’re looking for both in and out of town, as well as answer any questions you may have.

"In this house on October 13, 1825, nothing happened and nobody important was born here."
“In this house on October 13, 1825, nothing happened and nobody important was born here.”

 

Safety in Villa de Leyva

The town and surrounding areas are very safe, with the only real hazard being the cobblestone streets. You need to watch your step!

Souvenir shop
Souvenir shop


 

Where to Stay in Villa de Leyva

There are several hotels to choose from in Villa de Leyva, which makes it difficult to find the right place.

 

Villa Pepita Real

We spent our first three nights at Villa Pepita Real in the historic center. It’s a guesthouse run by a family who live in a separate building on the grounds. They’re very friendly and enthusiastic about helping their guests. They did their best to make sure we were comfortable and had everything we needed during our stay. Breakfast is not included, but there are plenty of restaurants within walking distance. Parking is free and it’s located just a couple blocks from Plaza Mayor.

Villa Pepita Real in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Villa Pepita Real

There are a few modern rooms available, and we couldn’t have been happier with our room. It was spacious, clean, and very comfortable. The bed was a bit too small for two, but it worked.

Our room at Villa Pepita Real
Our room
Bathroom at Villa Pepita Real
Bathroom

 

Little Glass House

We spent two nights at Little Glass House, which is located on a ridge a few minutes drive outside town. We had high expectations for it based on ratings and reviews, but it was a bit of a disaster from the start. First of all, the location on Google Maps was wrong and we had to call the owners and ask for directions. There was no sign in front of the property indicating it was Little Glass House. Instead, there was a small sign for Las Carcabas and a private house at the front.

Main house at Little Glass House
Main house
Main house at Little Glass House
Main house

When we arrived, we were greeted by Javi. We followed him down to the two small cabins behind the house. Each cabin contains a bed, tables, mosquito nets, and lamps. Unfortunately, the bed was very soft and sunk in the middle. It was very uncomfortable and we woke up with back and neck pain. The mosquito nets, however, made a huge difference, although we still had a few bugs creep in.

Cabin at Little Glass House in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Cabin
Cabin at Little Glass House
Cabin
Inside the cabin at Little Glass House
Inside the cabin

The bathroom and shower are outside the room and shared by both cabins. We knew this going in, but it was still kind of a pain, especially since the other couple weren’t very clean. It also wasn’t comfortable walking out to the bathroom in the rain.

Entrance to the bathroom at Little Glass House
Entrance to the bathroom
Bathroom at Little Glass House
Bathroom
Shower at Little Glass House
Shower

Breakfast is served outside the cabin at a small picnic table. It was so-so, and we weren’t sure why the reviews said it was wonderful.

Breakfast at Little Glass House in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Breakfast

 

Our Thoughts on Little Glass House

Because of the price, photos, and reviews of Little Glass House, we were expecting something a bit less rustic and more modern and romantic. We could deal with the bathroom situation, but the quality of the mattress ruined it for us. The only real positives were the hosts, Javi and Ceci, who were very friendly and helpful. They tried to make us feel at home and were always smiling. The views of Villa de Leyva and the surrounding area are also nice.

Little Glass House has a lot of potential, but Javi and Ceci need to improve the cabins to justify the price. Furthermore, if you don’t have transportation, you’re stuck walking a half hour into town or paying for a taxi both ways.

View of Villa de Leyva from Little Glass House in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
View of Villa de Leyva
View of Villa de Leyva from Little Glass House in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
View of Villa de Leyva


 

Casa del Arte

On another trip, I stayed at Casa del Arte, which is about a 10 minute drive north of town on the road to Iguaque and Arcabuco. It’s a beautiful and peaceful place with a very hospitable owner, Nelly. She’s an artist, hence the name Casa del Arte, and goes out of her way to make her guests feel at home.

Casa del Arte in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Casa del Arte
Casa del Arte in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Casa del Arte

The rooms are very comfortable and extremely clean. It’s nice and quiet at night, with only the sounds of the crickets and frogs. Breakfast is delicious and consists of fresh fruit, fresh juice, eggs, warm bread with jam, and coffee or hot chocolate.

Casa del Arte
Casa del Arte
My room at Casa del Arte
My room

On the grounds are a small pond with papyrus as well as a teepee for gatherings. It might be a little far from town, but it’s a great place to relax and unwind. There’s a bus that passes by occasionally or you can call a taxi. Overall, it’s well worth the price and I found it easier to get into town than from Little Glass House.

Pond with papyrus at Casa del Arte
Pond with papyrus
Teepee at Casa del Arte
Teepee
Teepee at Casa del Arte
Teepee

 

Where to Eat in Villa de Leyva

Villa de Leyva is one of the best towns in Colombia for food. While it may not have the culinary creativity of Bogotá, there are plenty of options to eat well.

 

Mercado Municipal

Mercado Municipal is a great restaurant located just a block off Plaza Mayor. They serve delicious food using fresh local ingredients, and also have some great desserts. We walked in on a Friday night and sat on the outdoor patio.

Mercado Municipal in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Mercado Municipal
Mercado Municipal
Mercado Municipal
Patio at Mercado Municipal in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Patio

I tried the pizza which was cooked in a wood fired oven. It was excellent. A friend had the chicharrón and enjoyed it. Another friend had the fish and chips made from pirarucú, which is from the Amazon region. I couldn’t resist and had a bite. It too was amazing.

Pizza at Mercado Municipal
Pizza
Fish and chips at Mercado Municipal
Fish and chips

 

El Rincón Gourmet de la Villa (Permanently Closed)

El Rincón Gourmet de la Villa is a restaurant and piano bar serving Spanish food. We were very happy from the beginning when the owner greeted us and enthusiastically went over the menu with us.

El Rincón Gourmet de la Villa in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
El Rincón Gourmet de la Villa
Dining room at El Rincón Gourmet de la Villa in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Dining room

We started with two appetizers. The octopus was excellent while the meatballs cooked in sherry were also very good.

Octopus at El Rincón Gourmet de la Villa
Octopus
Meatballs at El Rincón Gourmet de la Villa
Meatballs

For the main course, I had a steak with blue cheese sauce and Marisol had shrimp. Both were wonderful, and we left the restaurant satisfied. In the end, it cost us quite a lot after drinks and tip, but the price wasn’t bad considering the quality of the meal. We considered this one of the best meals we had in Villa de Leyva.

Steak with blue cheese sauce at El Rincón Gourmet de la Villa
Steak with blue cheese sauce
Shrimp at El Rincón Gourmet de la Villa
Shrimp


 

El Rincón Argentino

Next door is El Rincón Argentino, which serves Argentinian cuisine. I took a couple of friends there. We all tried an empanada which was huge and delicious. For the main course, I had a choripán which was good but not what I expected. My friend Abe had the pinchos (skewers) while his grandson Matthew had the churrasco. They were both satisfied.

El Rincón Argentino in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
El Rincón Argentino
Choripán at El Rincón Argentino in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Choripán

 

Pastelería Francesa

Pastelería Francesa is a bakery owned by a French man. It’s only open from Thursday to Sunday and has some of the best pastries and breads you’ll ever try. It’s located a couple blocks past the hospital but beware, he does close unexpectedly. It took a second trip to Villa de Leyva and finally tried the pastries everyone raved about. The best are the almond croissants.

Pastelería Francesa in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Pastelería Francesa
Pastelería Francesa
Pastelería Francesa
Just a few of the pastries at Pastelería Francesa in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Just a few of the pastries

 

Casadulce

If you like coffee, try Casadulce, which is located on Plazuela del Carmen. They make excellent coffee and also have amazing sweets. I had an orange poppyseed cake and Marisol had a chocolate mousse. When we arrived, almost every table was full and there were several people huddled around the counter.

Casadulce in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Casadulce
Orange poppyseed cake at Casadulce
Orange poppyseed cake

 

San Cayetano (Permanently Closed)

While walking through Villa de Leyva we spotted San Cayetano, which is a Spanish restaurant located inside Casona La Guaca. We saw the sign outside for paella and were immediately drawn in. We had an octopus starter and the paella. The octopus was excellent but the paella wasn’t authentic and was so-so. Service was very slow but friendly. Overall, we wouldn’t eat there again.

Octopus at San Cayetano in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Octopus
Paella at San Cayetano
Paella


 

Tacuba 16

Tacuba 16 is a Mexican restaurant in Casa Quintero, just off Plaza Mayor. This was one of the worst Mexican meals I have ever eaten. We started with guacamole, which came out yellow and tasted strongly of vinegar and spoiled avocado.

Guacamole at Tacuba 16
Guacamole

For dinner, I had tortilla soup, which was completely unauthentic. Marisol had flautas which were covered with almost frozen cheese. We were both extremely dissatisfied with our meal and the slow service.

Tortilla soup at Tacuba 16
Tortilla Soup
Flautas at Tacuba 16 in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Flautas

 

Casa Blanca

Our hotel recommended Casa Blanca for breakfast. We both had eggs and orange juice, and were happy with the quality. Because of our long hike at Iguaque, we also ordered two sandwiches to go and ate them on the hike.

Later that evening, we had two orders of ajiaco from Casa Blanca delivered to our hotel. It was very expensive for what we ordered, but it didn’t matter because it was one of the best ajiacos we have had in Colombia.

 

Asadero La Villa (Permanently Closed)

One morning, we had breakfast at Asadero La Villa. Service was slow but the breakfast was decent and cheap. You can definitely find a better breakfast elsewhere.

Breakfast at Asadero La Villa
Breakfast

 

Buen Sabor

On our final morning in Villa de Leyva, we found a small restaurant near the edge of town called Buen Sabor and ordered eggs. Marisol’s eggs had rotten wood that had fallen from the ceiling cooked into them. I was lucky and didn’t have that problem. The breakfast was reasonably priced but we were upset they charged us for an extra slice of bread after the problem with the eggs. Hopefully the health department will shut this place down soon.


 

Museo del Chocolate

A great place to satisfy your sweet tooth is Museo del Chocolate. They have two locations just off Plaza Mayor. One is a store full of chocolates and the other is a museum and restaurant.

Museo del Chocolate store in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Museo del Chocolate store
Assortment of chocolates at the Museo del Chocolate store
Assortment of chocolates
Museum and restaurant of the Museo del Chocolate in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Museum and restaurant

 

Parrilla El Pino

If you want to grab a delicious meal while exploring attractions on the outskirts of town, try Parrilla El Pino. It’s located across the street from the Paleontological Research Center. They serve a platter of grilled meats including longaniza from Sutamarchán as well as an amazing ajiaco.

Parrilla El Pino near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Parrilla El Pino
Meats on the grill at Parrilla El Pino
Meats on the grill
Ajiaco at Parrilla El Pino near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Ajiaco

 

Comida Coreana

If you’re looking for a unique change to typical Colombian food, try Comida Coreana. This Korean restaurant is run by a Korean woman and her Colombian husband.

Former location of Comida Coreana in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Former location of Comida Coreana

When we visited, Comida Coreana was located on a quiet street in the town center. There were only four tables in a small space. It has since moved to a bigger location on the outskirts of town. It’s typically open Thursday to Sunday from lunch until about 5pm, but it’s best to get there early just in case they run out of food.

Former location of Comida Coreana
Former location of Comida Coreana

On our first night, I had the pollo apanado (sweet and sour chicken) while Marisol had the pocum salcuksu (sautéed rice noodles with seafood and vegetables). The meals came with a variety of sides including kimchi. To drink we tried omiya tea and Tsingtao beer.

Pollo apanado (left) and pocum salcuksu (right) at Comida Coreana
Pollo apanado (left) and pocum salcuksu (right)

On our second night, I had osam-bulgogi (spicy pork and calamari sautéed with vegetables) and Marisol had the yampong (seafood stew with pasta). We had ginger and honey tea to wash it down.

Osam-bulgogi (left) and yampong (right) at Comida Coreana in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Osam-bulgogi (left) and yampong (right)

Every dish we tried was excellent, service was also wonderful, and prices were fair. The owners did their best to make sure we were happy with the food and were always asking if everything was ok. Also, if you don’t know anything about Korean food, the menu does a wonderful job describing each dish (in Spanish). We can’t wait to go back to Villa de Leyva to try more. In our experience, this is the most authentic version of Korean cuisine you can find in Colombia.

Menu at Comida Coreana
Menu

 

Map of Where to Eat in Villa de Leyva


 

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Plaza Mayor

The centerpiece of Villa de Leyva is Plaza Mayor. At 14,000 square meters, it’s one of the largest plazas in Latin America and the largest made with cobblestones. While most main plazas in Colombia were renamed to honor Simón Bolívar (1783-1830), this one has kept its original name since the beginning.

Plaza Mayor in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Plaza Mayor
Plaza Mayor in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Plaza Mayor

In the center of Plaza Mayor is a simple Mudéjar fountain. It provided water to the town for over 400 years. The mountain in the background creates an idyllic scene unmatched in any town in Colombia.

Fountain in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Fountain
Plaza Mayor in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Plaza Mayor

The rest of Plaza Mayor is surrounded by colonial buildings including the church. Among the notable ones are the Town Hall, Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum, Casa Quintero, and Casa Jose María Vargas Vila.

Colonial buildings on Plaza Mayor in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Colonial buildings
Colonial buildings on Plaza Mayor in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Colonial buildings
Town Hall in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Town Hall
Casa José María Vargas Vila in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Casa José María Vargas Vila


 

Our Lady of the Rosary

The most important building on the plaza is Our Lady of the Rosary (Nuestra Señora del Rosario). It’s a rather simple church that dates back to 1604.

Our Lady of the Rosary in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Our Lady of the Rosary
Nave of Our Lady of the Rosary in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Nave
Nave of Our Lady of the Rosary
Nave
Altar of Our Lady of the Rosary in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Altar

Inside, there are a few chapels on either side. If you look carefully, you can see where Antonio Nariño (1765-1823), a hero of Colombian independence who died in Villa de Leyva, was once buried. You can visit the house where he died a couple blocks away.

Chapel at Our Lady of the Rosary
Chapel
Chapel at Our Lady of the Rosary
Chapel
Burial place of Antonio Nariño at Our Lady of the Rosary
Burial place of Antonio Nariño

 

Casa Quintero

Moving clockwise around Plaza Mayor is Casa Quintero. It’s a colonial mansion that was restored into a small shopping and entertainment center. It now hosts several restaurants and shops. Casa Quintero always seemed like a lively place during my visits. We ate dinner at Tacuba 16, one of the restaurants located there.

Casa Quintero in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Casa Quintero
Casa Quintero
Casa Quintero

 

Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum

The Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum (Casa Museo Luis Alberto Acuña) sits on Plaza Mayor opposite the church. It’s an art museum dedicated to Luis Alberto Acuña (1904-1993), who was one of Colombia’s most important artists. Acuña lived in the house for the last 15 years of his life. The museum is open daily from 9am to 6pm. Admission is COP$15,000 for adults, COP$13,000 for seniors over 60, COP$12,000 for kids age 5-14, and free for kids under 4 (as of November 2024). A ticket includes entry to the Prehistoric Museum.

Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum

The main gallery is a large room containing paintings and other works by Acuña. It’s the largest collection of his works in the country.

Main gallery at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum
Main gallery
Paintings in the main gallery at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum
Paintings
Painting in the main gallery at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum
Painting
Sketch in the main gallery at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum
Sketch

The next room contains antiquities dating back to the 16th century. Some of the pieces include a Stradivarius violin and antique watches. In the third room you can find tapestries made by Acuña.

Tapestries at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum
Tapestries

The patio is my favorite part of the museum. There are some sculptures created by Acuña and two original frescoes that he painted. One of the frescoes represents the mythology of the indigenous Muisca people.

Patio at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Patio
Sculpture at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum
Sculpture
Muisca fresco at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum
Muisca fresco
Fresco at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Fresco

My favorite sculpture in the museum is in a small area just off the patio. Done in an indigenous style, it represents a Muisca family with an open space in their torsos. The mother has a frowning baby with his arms folded sitting in her womb. It’s also worth popping into the small dining room just off the patio, where you’ll find brilliant frescoes painted by Acuña on the ceiling.

Muisca sculpture at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Muisca sculpture
Muisca sculpture at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Muisca sculpture
Dining room at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Dining room
Dining room ceiling at the Luis Alberto Acuña House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Dining room ceiling


 

Prehistoric Museum

The Prehistoric Museum (Museo Prehistórico) is located just around the corner. It features a small collection of fossils, indigenous artifacts, and artwork by Luís Alberto Acuña representing the Muisca story of creation.

Prehistoric Museum
Prehistoric Museum

 

House of the First Congress

The House of the First Congress (Casa del Primer Congreso) sits on the eastern corner of the plaza. It was in that building where the First Congress of the United Provinces of Nueva Granada, the predecessor of Colombia, met on October 4, 1812. It’s now where the municipal council meets.

House of the First Congress
House of the First Congress
House of the First Congress
House of the First Congress

The building underwent a long renovation that was finally completed in 2019. If you’re able to walk inside, there’s an interesting mural in the courtyard.

Courtyard of the House of the First Congress
Courtyard
Courtyard of the House of the First Congress in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Courtyard

 

Annual Market at Plaza Mayor

Every Saturday morning, a lively local market takes place at Plaza de Mercado in Villa de Leyva. This Saturday market features goods sold by local farmers and vendors. Once a year, however, on the anniversary of the founding of Villa de Leyva, the market takes place at Plaza Mayor.

Tents at the Saturday Market in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Tents at the Saturday Market
Goats watching the Saturday Market from the back of a truck
Goats watching the market from the back of a truck

I happened to be in Villa de Leyva on the day the market was held at Plaza Mayor. It’s much bigger than the normal Saturday market, with many vendors dressed up in traditional garb.

A fruit vendor in traditional clothing at the Saturday Market in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
A fruit vendor in traditional clothing
Fruit vendor at the Saturday Market in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Fruit vendor

Of course, the most colorful and interesting items for sale are the fruits and vegetables, but there are also breads, honey, meat, clothing, and several other items.

Fruits for sale at the Saturday Market
Fruits for sale
Fruit vendors at the Saturday Market
Fruit vendors
A vendor selling soap and candy at the Saturday Market
A vendor selling soap and candy

One section includes ready to eat meats, such as chorizo, chicken, carne a la llanera, potatoes, and more. We sat down to a delicious meal of carne a la llanera.

Meat booth at the Saturday Market
Meat booth
Carne a la llanera at the Saturday Market in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Carne a la llanera

On another end of the plaza, there’s a stage where local musicians perform traditional music of the region. The town celebrates its foundation on the stage with lots of ceremonies and performances.


 

Royal Liquor Factory

The Royal Liquor Factory (Real Fábrica de Licores) sits on Calle 13 a block southeast of Plaza Mayor. It was the first official distillery in Colombia, and features a 17th century Spanish coat of arms above the door.

Royal Liquor Factory in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Royal Liquor Factory
Spanish coat of arms on the Royal Liquor Factory
Spanish coat of arms

Between the distillery and Plaza Mayor are several restaurants. In the opposite direction, you’ll find lots of souvenir and craft shops.

Looking towards Plaza Mayor in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Looking towards Plaza Mayor
Looking away from Plaza Mayor
Looking away from Plaza Mayor

 

Casona La Guaca

Casona La Guaca is a restored colonial mansion just off Plaza Mayor on Carrera 9, near the House of the First Congress. It follows the same concept as Casa Quintero. It features some pleasant courtyards and a menu that lists the dishes served by several restaurants. We ate paella there on our first afternoon.

Casona La Guaca in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Casona La Guaca
Courtyard of Casona La Guaca
Courtyard

There are also a few shops selling wine, jewelry, and crafts. Casona La Guaca is just a few steps from Plaza Mayor, on a pedestrianized street leading north from the eastern corner of the plaza.

Courtyard at Casona La Guaca
Courtyard
Courtyard at Casona La Guaca
Courtyard

 

Casa Juan de Castellanos

Next door to Casona La Guaca is Casa de Juan de Castellanos, which is a third restored colonial mansion that houses restaurants and shops.

Casa de Juan de Castellanos
Casa de Juan de Castellanos
Casa de Juan de Castellanos in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Casa de Juan de Castellanos
Courtyard at Casa de Juan de Castellanos in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Courtyard
Restaurant at Casa de Juan de Castellanos
Restaurant

 

Royal Bridge

Continuing along Carrera 9, you’ll find lots of souvenir shops and cafés as well as a small stone bridge, the Royal Bridge (Puente Real).

Royal Bridge in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Royal Bridge


 

Parque Ricaurte

At the next block is a small park, Parque Ricaurte. In the center is a monument dedicated to Antonio Ricaurte (1786-1814), a hero in the independence of Colombia and Venezuela.

Parque Ricaurte in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Parque Ricaurte

During the Battle of San Mateo in what is now Venezuela, Simón Bolívar (1783-1830) put Ricaurte and 50 soldiers in charge of his estate. On March 25, 1814, Spanish troops had taken control of most of the estate. Ricaurte, who realized that the battle would be lost if the royalists controlled the estate, ordered his troops to leave. He then lit a barrel of gunpowder inside the ammunitions depot in the main house, blowing himself up and killing several royalist soldiers.

Antonio Ricaurte monument at Parque Ricaurte in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Antonio Ricaurte monument

Bolívar took advantage of the chaos by launching a counterattack. He retook the estate and won the battle in a rout. For his valor, Ricaurte is immortalized in the final verse of Colombia’s national anthem.

Antonio Ricaurte monument at Parque Ricaurte
Antonio Ricaurte monument

On the northern side of the park is a pleasant garden with benches and a bust of Ricaurte in the center.

Entrance to the garden at Parque Ricaurte
Entrance to the garden
Garden at Parque Ricaurte
Garden
Garden at Parque Ricaurte
Garden

 

Antonio Ricaurte House Museum (Permanently Closed)

Ricaurte was born on June 10, 1786, in a small house on the southern corner of the park. The house is now the Antonio Ricaurte House Museum (Casa Museo Antonio Ricaurte). Admission is free.

Antonio Ricaurte House Museum
Antonio Ricaurte House Museum
Antonio Ricaurte House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Antonio Ricaurte House Museum

After entering the courtyard, someone will lead you to the first room, which has information on Ricaurte’s life. On the table in the center is a box of dirt from San Mateo, probably containing the ashes of Ricaurte.

Courtyard of the Antonio Ricaurte House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Courtyard
Antonio Ricaurte House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Antonio Ricaurte House Museum
Box containing dirt from San Mateo at the Antonio Ricaurte House Museum
Box containing dirt from San Mateo

Next, you can visit the kitchen, which displays common items used in kitchens during the early 19th century.

Kitchen at the Antonio Ricaurte House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Kitchen

The third room contains a military museum run by the Colombian Air Force. One attached room displays bedroom furniture typical in the early 1800s. The other is the room where Ricaurte was born.

Military museum at the Antonio Ricaurte House Museum
Military museum
Bedroom at the Antonio Ricaurte House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Bedroom

Finally, there’s a beautiful garden you can walk through. A well sits in the center, but it has been filled in.

Garden at the Antonio Ricaurte House Museum
Garden


 

Church of San Agustín

Across from the house is the Church of San Agustín (Iglesia de San Agustín), founded in 1594 by Augustinian Friar Mateo Delgado, the personal physician of King Felipe II of Spain. It was abandoned in 1835 and sat empty for 40 years before being converted into a school. This former church is now the home of the Humboldt Institute (Instituto Humboldt), which is a biological research organization named for Prussian naturalist Alexander von Humboldt (1769-1859). Humboldt spent a significant part of 1801 in Colombia doing research.

Church of San Agustín in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Church of San Agustín

Although it’s typically closed to the public, when we visited there was an exhibition on the courtyard about biological research projects in Colombia. The courtyard itself is beautiful and is full of plants and trees. The original church looked like it was being used as a conference room

Humboldt Institute at the Church of San Agustín in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Humboldt Institute
Courtyard of the Church of San Agustín
Courtyard
Former Church of San Agustín
Former Church of San Agustín

 

Plazuela del Carmen

Heading back towards Plaza Mayor on Carrera 10 is Plazuela del Carmen. This small grassy square contains two important buildings.

Plazuela del Carmen in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Plazuela del Carmen

 

Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel

The first building is the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen). This beautiful church was built in 1850. Unfortunately, it has always been closed during our visits, but it’s a very photogenic structure.

Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel
Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel
A street leading to the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
A street leading to the church
Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel


 

Carmelite Museum

Across the square is the Carmelite Museum (Museo del Carmen). This religious art museum is considered one of the best in Colombia. It was founded in 1971 by Padre Rafael Mejía Maya. Admission is COP$7,000 per person (as of April 2023).

Carmelite Museum
Carmelite Museum

The museum contains five different rooms with over 400 works of religious art. They were collected from different Carmelite convents and monasteries all over Colombia. The works date from the 17th century until the first quarter of the 20th century. Most of the art was made by anonymous artists and some has European origins.

Carmelite Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Carmelite Museum
Carmelite Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Carmelite Museum
Crucifix gallery in the Carmelite Museum
Crucifix gallery

The museum also contains the Café del Museo, where you can have a coffee in the courtyard. In the center of the courtyard is an interesting moss-covered fountain.

Fountain at the Carmelite Museum
Fountain

 

Parque Antonio Nariño

Parque Antonio Nariño is located south of Plaza Mayor. While there are no specific points of interest on the park, it’s lined with nice colonial buildings. In the center is a bust of Antonio Nariño, a hero of the Colombian independence movement who died in a house in Villa de Leyva.

Parque Antonio Nariño
Parque Antonio Nariño
Parque Antonio Nariño in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Parque Antonio Nariño

 

Antonio Nariño House Museum

The Antonio Nariño House Museum (Casa Museo Antonio Nariño) is just two blocks west of Plaza Mayor on Carrera 9. It pays homage to one of Colombia’s most important historic figures, Antonio Nariño (1765-1824). He sparked the independence movement from Spain by translating the Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen into Spanish. Nariño lived the last two months of his life in the house before he died of a lung infection at the age of 58. Admission is free (as of November 2024) and it’s open daily except Wednesdays. The entire museum is in Spanish.

Antonio Nariño House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Antonio Nariño House Museum

The rooms on the ground floor contain items from the early 19th century and displays that tell the story of Colombian independence.

Ground floor at the Antonio Nariño House Museum
Ground floor
Ground floor at the Antonio Nariño House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Ground floor

The patio has a copy of the Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen, and interpretive panels about each right. In the back of the house is a pleasant garden you can walk through.

Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen at the Antonio Nariño House Museum
Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen
Patio at the Antonio Nariño House Museum
Patio
Patio at the Antonio Nariño House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Patio
Garden at the Antonio Nariño House Museum
Garden

The second floor of the house can be visited on a guided tour only. The tours run frequently throughout the day and are worth waiting for. You can see period furniture such as a living room set from Europe, a bed, and personal items owned by Nariño. There’s also a replica of the prison cells that housed Nariño for much of his life.

Second floor at the Antonio Nariño House Museum
Second floor
Second floor at the Antonio Nariño House Museum in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Second floor
Items owned by Nariño at the Antonio Nariño House Museum
Items owned by Nariño
Replica prison cells at the Antonio Nariño House Museum
Replica prison cells


 

Cloister of San Francisco

Another block south on Calle 10 is the Cloister of San Francisco (Claustro de San Francisco), which was founded by the Franciscans in 1614. It was abandoned in 1821 and has been converted into a concert hall.

Cloister of San Francisco
Cloister of San Francisco

 

Attractions on the Outskirts of Villa de Leyva

There are some great attractions near the entrance to town and a few further afield. If you don’t have your own transportation, you can take a taxi or rent a bike. You can also hop on a bus headed from Villa de Leyva to Santa Sofía and tell the driver where you want to get off. They run roughly every hour.

Further afield and covered in separate posts is the Convent of Santo Ecce Homo, the vineyards around Villa de Leyva, and El Infiernito.

 

Casa Terracota

Casa Terracota is a unique work of art just outside the town. It’s a 500 square meter house created by Colombian architect Octavio Mendoza in the same way potters bake vases. It’s considered the largest piece of pottery in the world.

Casa Terracota near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Casa Terracota

Admission weekdays is as follows: during low season, it’s COP$38,000 for adults, COP$32,000 for seniors over 60, COP$28,000 for students, and COP$23,000 for kids age 8-17; and during high season it’s COP$46,000 for adults, COP$37,000 for seniors over 60, COP$34,000 for students, and COP$25,000 for kids age 8-17.

Admission on weekends and holiday Mondays is as follows: during low season, it’s COP$43,000 for adults, COP$37,000 for seniors over 60, COP$31,000 for students, and COP$27,000 for kids age 8-17; and during high season it’s COP$50,000 for adults, COP$42,000 for seniors over 60, COP$36,000 for students, and COP$30,000 for kids age 8-17. Kids under 8 are always admitted free of charge.

Prices are current as of November 2024. Audio guides are available. There are also package tours of Villa de Leyva that include Casa Terracota.

 

Features of Casa Terracota

On the first floor of the house, you’ll find several different rooms to wander through. You’ll notice as soon as you walk in that lots of different animals that have been incorporated into the design.

First floor of Casa Terracota
First floor
Animal figure at Casa Terracota
Animal figure
Hallway at Casa Terracota
Hallway

To the left of the entrance is the kitchen and dining room. To the right are a few different rooms, including a library and sitting room. A bathroom, shower, and sink are located on the first floor as well.

Kitchen at Casa Terracota near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Kitchen
Dining room at Casa Terracota
Dining room
Sitting room at Casa Terracota in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Sitting room
Library at Casa Terracota in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Library
Reading room at Casa Terracota
Reading room
Toilet at Casa Terracota
Toilet
Shower at Casa Terracota
Shower
Sink at Casa Terracota
Sink

Upstairs is the master bedroom and master bathroom. There’s also a doorway to a small terrace overlooking the yard. In the back, a door opens out to a small outdoor bar and stairs to the rooftop.

Master bedroom at Casa Terracota in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Master bedroom
Master bathroom at Casa Terracota
Master bathroom
Yard at Casa Terracota
Yard
Bar at Casa Terracota in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Bar
Stairs to the rooftop at Casa Terracota in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Stairs to the rooftop

From the rooftop, you’ll notice that the rear stairway of the house is shaped like a reptile’s tail. There are also views of the backyard which includes a small pond. If you feel like sticking around a little longer, a small café sits next to the house, serving coffee and snacks.

Rooftop at Casa Terracota near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Rooftop
Rear stairway at Casa Terracota in Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Rear stairway
Backyard at Casa Terracota
Backyard
Café at Casa Terracota
Café


 

Pozos Azules

A bit further west is Pozos Azules. These six artificial lakes are supposed to “naturally” have a deep blue color due to the minerals in the soil. In reality, it’s a tourist trap that’s a complete waste of time.

Entrance at Pozos Azules
Entrance

Admission is COP$15,000 per person (as of November 2024) to follow a trail that leads to all six lakes and then back up to the parking lot. It takes about an hour to complete the loop. The best part is the beginning of the trail which leads through a recently planted forest of evergreens.

Trail at Pozos Azules
Trail
Trail at Pozos Azules
Trail

After a few minutes you reach the first few lakes and realize the colors aren’t a spectacular natural blue but more like an artificial green. Maybe it was the cloudy weather affecting the color, but we felt like we were missing the point. Or maybe it was because we saw men dumping bags of powder into the lakes.

Pozo 1 at Pozos Azules near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Pozo 1
Pozo 2 at Pozos Azules
Pozo 2
Pozo 3 at Pozos Azules
Pozo 3
Pozo 4 at Pozos Azules near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Pozo 4

Once you reach the fifth lake, which has a rectangular shape and looks more like a retention pond, you realize you’ve been ripped off. At that point, we just felt stupid for even thinking about visiting and couldn’t wait to get back to the car and get on with our lives.

Pozo 5 at Pozos Azules near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Pozo 5
Banks of Pozo 5 at Pozos Azules
Banks of Pozo 5

There are plenty of great worthwhile attractions near Villa de Leyva. This isn’t one of them. Go visit the Fossil Museum, El Infiernito, Casa Terracota, or Santo Ecce Homo instead. At the very least, even if you don’t like those places, you’ll see something REAL and not artificial. More importantly, you’ll see something not designed to steal your hard-earned cash.

Pozo 6 at Pozos Azules near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Pozo 6
Pozo 6 at Pozos Azules
Pozo 6


 

FIBAS

Continuing down the road is FIBAS Desert Garden (Jardín de Desierto), which we visited based on positive reviews. It bills itself as a magical natural place with desert plants such as cacti. We expected to see a beautiful desert garden and learn about different cactus plants, but it also turned out to be a colossal disappointment.

FIBAS Desert Garden
FIBAS Desert Garden
FIBAS Desert Garden
FIBAS Desert Garden

The place does sell cacti and other plants, and there is a beautifully landscaped desert garden, but the main attraction is their labyrinth. The owners charge a ridiculous COP$20,000 per person fee (as of August 2022) to walk through a labyrinth into their “mother’s womb” and be “reborn” into the universe. It’s supposed to be a spiritual and refreshing experience but it’s really just a huge scam. Avoid this place like the plague. The positive reviews are mind-boggling. Save your money and spend your time elsewhere. If you do decide to go, reservations are required in advance.

FIBAS Desert Garden near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
FIBAS Desert Garden
FIBAS Desert Garden
FIBAS Desert Garden
Labyrinth at FIBAS Desert Garden near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Labyrinth

 

Paleontological Research Center (CIP)

Around the corner is the Paleontological Research Center (Centro de Investigaciones Paleontológicas), also known as CIP. This is a Smithsonian-affiliated professional laboratory and museum housing fossils of sea creatures found in the area. Millions of years ago, these creatures dominated the shallow sea that covered much of Colombia.

Paleontological Research Center near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
CIP

Adult admission is COP$18,000 for a short guided tour of the museum (as of September 2024) and it’s open daily. It’s possible to get a tour in English with advance notice, and brochures covering everything on the tour are printed in both English and Spanish. There are also great activities available for kids of various ages.

Paleontological Research Center
CIP

The very knowledgeable guide shows visitors around the exhibition, which includes fossils found in the area and other parts of Colombia. Among the most important fossils are the largest fossilized prehistoric sea turtle ever found and a nearly complete plesiosaur.

Fossilized fish at the Paleontological Research Center
Fossilized fish
Sea turtle at the Paleontological Research Center near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Sea turtle
Plesiosaur at the Paleontological Research Center near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Plesiosaur
Plesiosaurus skull at the Paleontological Research Center near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Plesiosaurus skull

Visitors are able to peek into the laboratory where preparation is being performed on fossils. For an extra fee, you can participate in a simulated excavation or create your own fossil. Before leaving the museum, we had a chance to see some prehistoric insects stuck in amber.

Fossil lab at the Paleontological Research Center
Fossil lab
Preparation area of the fossil lab at the Paleontological Research Center
Preparation area
Fossil lab at the Paleontological Research Center
Fossil lab
Insect in amber at the Paleontological Research Center
Insect in amber


Fossil Museum

A few steps away is the Fossil Museum (Museo El Fósil). In 1977, a local farmer discovered the most complete fossil of a kronosaurus ever found. In order to prevent international organizations from taking the specimen, the locals built a museum around it and live off the proceeds to this day. The area around the museum has been built up to include a restaurant, souvenir shops, and art exhibitions. We didn’t visit any of those places and focused on the fossil instead.

Plaza at the Fossil Museum near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Plaza
Restaurant at the Fossil Museum
Restaurant
Souvenir shop at the Fossil Museum
Souvenir shop
Bird exhibit at the Fossil Museum
Bird exhibit

Adult admission to see the fossil is COP$20,000 (as of August 2024). The museum is open daily from 9am to 6pm. We bought our tickets and waited a few minutes for the guide to give us a lecture. It took about 30 minutes and was in Spanish only.

Entrance to the Fossil Museum near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Entrance to the Fossil Museum

The guide started at the fossil of the kronosaurus, which measured a spectacular 12 meters in length. She gave details about the animal, how it lived, what it ate, and how this specimen was found.

Kronosaurus at the Fossil Museum near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Kronosaurus
Kronosaurus at the Fossil Museum near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Kronosaurus

From there, we moved on to glass display cases featuring hundreds of fossils found in the area. One of the most important was a nearly complete ichthyosaur. Fossilized fish and shellfish made up the rest of the creatures. Before exiting the museum, the guide showed us several fossilized plants.

Fossil Museum
Fossil Museum
Ichthyosaur at the Fossil Museum
Ichthyosaur
Fossilized fish and shellfish at the Fossil Museum
Fossilized fish and shellfish
Shellfish at the Fossil Museum
Shellfish
Fossilized plants at the Fossil Museum near Villa de Leyva, Boyacá, Colombia
Fossilized plants

To be honest, the guide wasn’t really necessary. Much of the information she gave us could be found on a panel near the kronosaurus. Simply looking at the smaller creatures and fossilized plants was enough as well. I would have been happy to walk through the museum in 10 minutes on my own rather than have to follow a guide.

 

Map of Villa de Leyva

Author

Owner of Paisadventure. World traveler. Chicago sports lover. Living in Colombia.

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