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Picture-perfect Burano was one of the highlights of our trip to Venice. It’s known for its colorful homes and lace work, and is included in the UNESCO World Heritage listing for Venice and its Lagoon.
Introduction to Burano
Burano was originally settled by the Romans and was occupied by people from Altinum in the 6th century. It was administered by neighboring Torcello. The island didn’t rise to prominence until the 16th century, after lacemaking was introduced from Cyprus. The lace was soon exported across Europe.
Although filled with tourists on day trips from Venice, Burano still has a peaceful and quiet air about it. When you look back across the lagoon at Venice in the distance, from the west side of the island, it seems a world away.
Getting to Burano
To get to Burano, we took a vaporetto from the Fondamente Nove ferry terminal in the Cannaregio district of Venice. The ride takes just under 40 minutes, but we decided to get off at Mazzorbo and take the short walk to Burano instead. It’s also just a five minute ride to neighboring Torcello.
Colorful Homes on Burano
Once on Burano, we fell in love with the brightly colored homes. We took a good half hour wandering through the narrow streets, alongside canals, and crossing small bridges while taking in the scenery.
As far as the homes are concerned, it’s interesting to point out that the colors are strictly regulated. If someone wants to paint their home, they must file a request with the government. The government will then respond with a list of colors permitted for the area.
Piazza Baldassare Galuppi
Piazza Baldassare Galuppi is the only square on Burano. It sits on the south side and is named for composer Baldassare Galuppi (1706-1785), who was born on the island. The square features a well made out of Istrian stone and a statue of Baldassare Galuppi made by local sculptor Remigio Barbaro (1911-2005).
Church of San Martino
A large 16th century church, the Church of San Martino (Chiesa di San Martino) sits on the south side of the square. It was built between 1703 and 1714 by architect Andrea Tirali (c. 1660-1737). The exterior remains unfinished. On the side is a memorial to locals killed in both World Wars.
When you visit the island, you might notice that the bell tower leans slightly. It’s 53 meters high and has a square base 6.2 meters on each side. It was originally topped by a bronze angel destroyed by a severe storm on September 25, 1867, and it was later replaced by an iron cross.
The church is on a Latin cross plan with a vaulted ceiling covering a central nave and two aisles. In the sacristy is Crucifixion, painted in 1727 by Giambattista Tiepolo (1696-1770). The relics of St. Barbara are also preserved in the church.
The aisles are lined with impressive altars, including the one dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary. It features a wooden sculpture of the Virgin with the Child and two angels made in 1917 by Vincenzo Cadorin (1854-1925). Behind the baptismal font is the Baptism of Christ, painted by Francesco Trevisani (1656-1746). On the counter-façade is an organ built by Vincenzo Mascioni in 1913.
Lace Museum
On the square is the Lace Museum (Museo del Merletto), which chronicles Burano’s lace industry. The women on the island began making lace in the 16th century after it was introduced from Cyprus. Lacemaking declined in the 18th century but made a comeback when a lacemaking school opened in 1872. Nowadays, very few women continue to make lace the traditional way and the craft is slowly dying.
The Lace Museum is open daily except Mondays. Admission is €5 for adults; €3.50 for kids aged 6-14, students aged 15-25, and seniors over 65; and free for kids under 6 and holders of the Museum Pass (as of September 2024). Unfortunately it was closed during our visit.
Merletti dalla Olga
Several shops in Burano sell lace and it’s good to shop around. We visited a few of the shops, but our favorite was Merletti dalla Olga, located on Piazza Baldassare Galuppi near the church. Although we didn’t purchase anything, we enjoyed our experience.
The saleswomen showed us around the store, giving us a quick lesson on how to tell the difference between handmade and machine made lace. We also got to see one of the older women making lace, as well as an impressive piece that took a few years to complete and cost €4,999.
Via Baldassare Galuppi
Next, we walked down the main street in Burano, Via Baldassare Galuppi. It was once a canal that has been filled in. The street contains several restaurants and shops selling lace products and other souvenirs.
Where to Eat on Burano
We had lunch during our visit to the island.
Trattoria da Primo
We sat down at Trattoria da Primo along Via Baldassare Galuppi. It’s a friendly place that serves excellent seafood dishes at reasonable prices. We started off with a seafood stew. I had spaghetti with calamari in its own ink while Marisol had fish on a bed of vegetables. Both of our meals were tasty, and service was excellent.
