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Palazzo Te is a magnificent Renaissance villa south of the historic center of the UNESCO World Heritage city of Mantua. It’s decorated with some of the most incredible frescoes in northern Italy.
Introduction to Palazzo Te
Palazzo Te was built between 1525 and 1535 for Federico II Gonzaga (1500-1540). It was designed and decorated by architect and painter Giulio Romano (c. 1499-1546) and is considered his masterpiece. The palazzo was used for leisure purposes, and often hosted receptions and feasts. It once sat on an island in the middle of a lake, connected to the southern city walls by a bridge, but the lake was drained to make way for homes and civic buildings.
Palazzo Te was looted for three days in July 1630 during the War of the Mantuan Succession, leaving it completely empty. After the fall of the Gonzagas in 1708, the Austrian army used it as a barracks. The property was sold to the municipality in 1876. It was restored and later opened to the public as a museum. Further restorations took place in the 1980s.
Palazzo Te is a square building with an inner courtyard. It has four wings, each with two floors, and is designed to look like it has a single floor. The ground floor is slightly elevated to protect from flooding. The east wing features Palladian motifs and an open loggia, while the other three have arches opening to the inner courtyard. The southern façade is incomplete and closed to the public.
Visiting Palazzo Te
Palazzo Te is open daily. Tickets are €15 for adults, €11 for seniors age 65+, €7 for kids age 12-18, and free for kids under 12 and Holders of the Mantova Sabbioneta Card (as of April 2025). They include admission to the MACA Museum and the Church of San Sebastiano (Tempio Leon Battista Alberti). Check the official website for more information.
Francesco Gonzaga Gardens
Just north of Palazzo Te is the Francesco Gonzaga Gardens (Giardini Francesco Gonzaga), a large public park. You’ll likely pass through the gates and walk through the park on your way to the palazzo.
Rooms of Palazzo Te
Palazzo Te features roughly 20 rooms open to the public, situated in the 4 wings surrounding the inner courtyard. The west wing is used as a tourist entrance and temporary exhibitions. The most important rooms from an artistic and architectural standpoint are on the north, east, and south wings.
Courtyard of Honor
Before visiting the rooms, it’s good to start at the inner courtyard, which is known as the Courtyard of Honor (Cortile d’Onore). It was used to welcome the most prestigious guests, including Holy Roman Emperor Charles V in April 1530. The walls are surrounded by a Doric colonnade and a frieze featuring alternating triglyphs and metopes. The metopes are masks with open mouths that once served as water spouts channeling rainwater from the building.
Chamber of Ovid
On the north wing, the first room open to the public is the Chamber of Ovid (Camera di Ovidio), also known as the Chamber of the Metamorphosis (Camera delle Metamorfosi). It’s a small room decorated with friezes inspired by Ovid‘s Metamorphoses. All of the themes depict imaginary landscapes except the one to the right of the window, which shows Palazzo Te as it would have appeared in 1527. The fireplace is made of red Verona marble and bears the inscription “F G II M M V” (Federico Gonzaga II, 5th Marquis of Mantua). The lower part of the walls are bare, as they were originally covered by tapestries or leathers.
Chamber of the Devices
Next is the Chamber of the Devices (Sala delle Imprese). It’s named for the frieze filled with devices, or heraldic emblems, of the Gonzaga family. Each device consists of an image, called the “body”, and a motto, called the “soul”. They express moral principles and virtues as well as important personal events. The fireplace is made of red and yellow Verona marble and contains the inscription “F G II M M V” (Federico Gonzaga II, 5th Marquis of Mantua).
The Green Lizard and Mount Olympus are the most frequently used devices at Palazzo Te. The Green Lizard represents Federico II Gonzaga’s passion for his mistress, Isabella Boschetti (b. c. 1502), with the motto “Quod huic deest me torquet”(What this creature lacks torments me). Mount Olympus represents the “concept of loyalty to the ashes that lay still on the altar at the top of the mountain”. It’s accompanied by the motto “Fides” (Faith).
Chamber of the Sun and the Moon
The Chamber of the Sun and the Moon (Sala del Sole e della Luna) was used as a salon for guests before entering the private chambers of the Devices and Ovid.
The room is named for the fresco in the center of the vault depicting the chariots of the Sun at sunset and the Moon rising. This represents the continuous passing of time. The artist is unknown but they may have been painted in 1527 by Francesco Primaticcio (1504-1570), an apprentice of Giulio Romano. The rest of the vault is decorated with 128 lozenges and 64 triangles with plaster reliefs on a turquoise background. The reliefs depict men, animals, and the devices of the Green Lizard and Mount Olympus.
The reliefs on the lower walls date back to the 18th century. They’re reproductions of 16th century plasters found in other parts of the palace, or molds of ancient Greco-Roman originals.
Loggia of the Muses
The Loggia of the Muses (Loggia delle Muse) is at the center of the north wing of Palazzo Te. It was used as an entrance for guests arriving from the Courtyard of Honor into the state rooms. The frescoes on the vault are dedicated to the Muses, who are the traditional protectors of the arts and sciences.
The north wall, which is heavily damaged, depicts two scenes of the myth of Orpheus and Eurydice. One shows Eurydice being chased by Aristaeus, while the other shows Orpheus enchanting animals with his voice.
On the west wall is a lunette depicting Apollo surrounded by objects representing poetry and theatre. Behind him is the winged horse Pegasus. Underneath is the Gonzaga coat of arms.
On the east wall is a lunette representing the poetry of Virgil, who was born in Mantua. It depicts a personification of Mantua is resting on the bowl of a fountain from which the head of Virgil emerges, while Apollo watches. The Gonzaga coat of arms is below.
Hall of the Horses
Continuing along is the Hall of the Horses (Sala dei Cavalli), which was painted between 1526 and 1528. It hosted important ceremonies and was used to receive guests. It’s dedicated to the horses in the famous Gonzaga stables.
Six life-sized horses are painted on the walls of which two have names: Morel Favorito (Dark-haired Favorite is the grey horse on the south wall while Dario is the horse on the North wall. The horses stand among landscapes and Corinthian pillars. Imitations of bronze bas-reliefs of the Labours of Hercules as well as niches with statues of divinities and busts of important people are also painted around the room.
The ceiling is painted gold and blue, with images of roses and the devices of the Green Lizard and Mount Olympus in the coffers. The frieze around the top of the walls depicts putti and includes four eagles in the corners.
Chamber of Cupid and Psyche
The frescoes start to get more detailed and complicated in the Chamber of Cupid and Psyche. Only the most important visitors were allowed to enter this room, which is on the northeast corner of the palazzo. It was painted between 1526 and 1528 and the terrazzo floor dates to 1784. The inscription along the ledge under the lunettes, starting on the east wall, reads:
FEDERICUS GONZAGA II MAR.V. S.R.E. ET REIP. FLOR. CAPITANEUS GENERALIS HONESTO OCIO POST LABORES AD REPARANDAM VIRT. QUIETI CONSTRUI MANDAVIT (Federico II Gonzaga, fifth Marquis of Mantua, of the Holy Roman Church and of the Florentine Republic Captain General, ordered this construction for his honest leisure after hard labors, to regain his strength in peace)
The story of Cupid and Psyche begins in the octagonal coffer on the west side of the vaulted ceiling with the chariot of Venus. It continues around the ceiling and onto the lunettes until the culmination in the center of the ceiling, where Jupiter is officiating their marriage. The south wall portrays the Feast of the Gods while the Rustic Banquet is on the west wall.
Other mythological tales adorn the north wall, including the Bath of Mars and Venus on the left side, Bacchus and Ariadne in the center, and Mars, Adonis, and Venus on the right side. The east wall features Jupiter seducing Olympias on the left; Polyphemus, Galatea, and Acis in the center above the fireplace; and Pasiphae and the bull on the right.
Chamber of the Winds
Continuing to the east wing of Palazzo Te, the Chamber of the Winds (Sala dei Venti), also known as the Chamber of the Zodiac (Sala dello Zodiaco), was completed in 1528 and has an astrological theme. It’s named for the masks of the personified winds in the lower part of the vault.
Ancient gods are painted on the ceiling along with the device of Mount Olympus. Further down are stuccoes of the signs of the zodiac next to round frescoes of the constellations they’re linked to. The fireplace and door frames are made of Brentonico marble. An inscription quoting Roman poet Juvenal (c. 55-128), on the door of the south wall, reads:
DISTAT ENIM QVAE SYDERA TE EXCIPIANT (It depends in fact which stars welcome you [when you are born])
Chamber of the Eagles
The Chamber of the Eagles (Sala delle Aquile) was used by Federico II Gonzaga (1500-1540) as a bedroom. It’s named for the four black eagles in each corner of the room, which was decorated between 1527 and 1528.
Mythological scenes dominate the room. In the center of the ceiling is an octagon depicting the Fall of Phaeton, surrounded by four bas-reliefs. The four lunettes are painted and decorated with stuccoes while frescoes of mythological scenes sit underneath. The frieze contains three marble busts of women and is decorated with stucco trophies and reliefs. The fireplace is made of marble from the Trentino Alps, while the door frames were mad with the same Greek marble used in 1525 to carve the Holy Door of St. Peter’s Basilica at the Vatican.
Loggia of David
At the center of the east wing is the Loggia of David (Loggia di Davide), also known as the Loggia of Honor (Loggia d’Onore). It’s named for the several decorations depicting the life of David.
The loggia is a large porch consisting of three arches supported by groups of four columns. It opens to the Courtyard of Honor and overlooks ponds. The decorations were made between 1532 and 1534, but loggia was probably ready by 1530 to receive Holy Roman Emperor Charles V.
The lunettes are dedicated to David. Scenes include David fighting Goliath (north wall); David fighting a lion (right side of the west wall); David fighting a bear (left side of the west wall); and David playing a lyre (south wall). Other stories of David decorate the octagonal coffers of the vault.
The Gonzaga coat of arms is on the lunette in the center of the west wall. The niches, which were meant for busts of famous warlords, are filled with statues of the Virtues dating between the mid-17th century and the early 19th century. Fake bronze bas-reliefs depicting stories of David date back to the early 19th century.
Chamber of the Stuccoes
The Chamber of the Stuccoes (Sala degli Stucchi) is south of the Loggia of David. It’s decorated with beautiful stucco reliefs created between 1529 and 1531 by Francesco Primaticcio (1504-1570) and Giovanni Battista Mantovano (1503-1575). The walls feature a double frieze depicting a procession of Roman soldiers. It’s about 60 meters long and has about 500 figures, including soldiers, women, children, horses, astrologers, fortune tellers, and supply wagons. The emperor is depicted on horseback in the center of the lower part of the south wall.
The barrel-vaulted ceiling contains mythological figures. Mars is depicted on one lunette while Hercules is on another. Winged Victories are arranged in a semicircle around them.
Chamber of the Emperors
Next is the Chamber of the Emperors (Sala dei Cesari), which was decorated between 1530 and 1531. In the center of the vaulted ceiling is a hexagon with a fresco depicting Julius Caesar ordering the letters of Pompey to be burnt, as narrated by Pliny.
The two round frescoes on the long sides of the ceiling depict the noble gestures of ancient rulers, including Alexander the Great storing the books of Homer in a golden casket taken from Darius of Persia on the south side, and the Continence of Scipio on the north side. Four vertical frescoes portray great rulers throughout ancient history including Alexander the Great, Julius Caesar, Augustus, and Philip II of Macedon. The two others depict a warrior and a signifer.
In the corners are octagons on a light blue background with ovals containing the devices of the Gonzagas. The frieze dates back to the late 18th century as the original was lost.
Chamber of the Giants
The most incredible room at Palazzo Te is the Chamber of the Giants (Sala dei Giganti), which is on the southeast corner. Painted between 1532 and 1535, the room depicts the story of the Fall of the Giants in Roman poet Ovid’s Metamorphoses. It has quite an effect on every visitor who passes through it.
On the ceiling is Zeus (Jupiter) leaving his throne to hurl thunderbolts at the Giants, who are knocked down by falling rocks and collapsed buildings during their failed assault on Mount Olympus. He’s assisted by other deities and immortal beings. In the center is his empty throne above the clouds, employing a spectacular use of trompe-l’œil.
The Chamber of the Giants is Giulio Romano’s masterpiece within a masterpiece. He designed the room with a square base topped by a dome, then smoothed the corners between the walls to create the illusion of one continuous awe-inspiring scene. The image was completed with a floor mosaic of painted river pebbles but it has since been lost. The current floor was designed by Paolo Pozzo (1741-1803) in the late 18th century.
Small Cross Vault Chamber
The next few rooms on the south wing are anticlimactic, starting with the Small Cross Vault Chamber (Camerino a Crociera). The cross vault for which the room is named was decorated between 1533 and 1534. The stuccoes were made by Biagio de Conti and Benedetto di Bertoldo while the acanthus leaves in the corners were made by Andrea de Conti.
Gerolamo da Pontremoli painted the grotesques in shades of pink, red, gold, and silvery green. The long sides depict the herms of Diana (Artemis) of Ephesus framed by sphinxes while the short sides contain putti holding a medallion. The lower part of the room, containing faux marble and stucco relief, was decorated in 1813 by Gerolamo Staffieri (1785-1837).
Small Chamber of Grotesques
Next is the Small Chamber of Grotesques (Camerino delle Grottesche), completed in 1533, has an octagonal pavilion vault. The stucco was done by Andrea di Conti while Luca da Faenza painted the grotesques. Masks, flowers, insects, birds, imaginary animals, and mythological figures are represented, all painted in white and gold. A figure of Cupid with his bow and arrow, painted by Gerolamo da Pontremoli, is in a roundel under the window arch.
Chamber of the Candelabra
The Chamber of the Candelabra (Camera dei Candelabri) was decorated in the Neoclassical style 1527, with stuccoes completed by Giovanni Battista Mantovano (1503-1575) and Nicolò da Milano, and paintings by Agostino da Mozzanica (d. 1544). The rest of the decorations were added by Gerolamo Staffieri in 1813. The stucco candelabra gives the room its name, while other decorations depict mythological, biblical, and Roman figures.
Chamber of the Caryatids
The Chamber of the Caryatids (Camera delle Cariatidi) combines the original and Neoclassical decorations along with 16th century stuccoes. The stuccoes on the upper frieze, likely made by Nicolò da Milano, are original.
The caryatids and other figures from the lower frieze, designed by Giulio Romano, originally graced the apartment of Isabella d’Este (1474-1539) and the Apartment of Troy at the Ducal Palace. They were transferred to Palazzo Te in 1813, the same year Gerolamo Staffieri carried out the Neoclassical decorations.
Chamber of the Victories
The final room on the south wing is the Chamber of the Victories (Camera delle Vittorie), which was decorated in 1528. It’s named for the figures of Winged Victory in the corners. The stuccoes were likely made by Nicolò da Milano while Agostino da Mozzanica completed the paintings. The ornate coffered ceiling depicts scenes from daily life while the Gonzaga coat of arms is in the center. The frieze consists of painted grotesques on a background of semi-precious stones.
Palazzo Te Civic Museum
The upper floor of the south wing hosts the Palazzo Te Civic Museum (Museo Civico del Palazzo Te), which contains a numismatic collection as well as the private collection of Italian publisher Arnoldo Mondadori (1889-1971). The numismatic collection consists of 595 coins minted during the Gonzaga period, weights and measures, and 62 medals depicting the Gonzagas and other important Mantuans.
Central Garden
The Central Garden (Giardino Centrale) sits to the east of Palazzo Te. It’s accessed via a bridge connected to the central arch of the Loggia of David. The bridge crosses over a fish pond separating Palazzo Te from the garden, which was once filled with flowers and trees. On the east side is an exedra while on the south side is the gardener’s home and the orangery, built in 1651.
Apartment of the Secret Garden
Just north of the exedra is the Apartment of the Secret Garden. This is a small cluster of rooms centered around a small courtyard with a garden. It was built by Federico II Gonzaga as a secluded and intimate space, recreating the secret garden of his mother, Isabella d’Este (1474-1539), at the Ducal Palace. Rooms include an octagonal vestibule and the Chamber of Attilius Regulus. The vaulted ceiling of the vestibule is decorated with grotesques. In the central octagon are putti picking grapes. The floor is made of river pebbles to hide the ends of tubes used for water games.
The Secret Garden was decorated around 1531 and the walls surrounding it were once painted with landscapes. In the frieze are niches painted or plastered with scenes from Aesop’s Fables.
Loggia
The Loggia overlooks the secret garden. It features a colonnade with three openings and elaborate decorations. On the south wall is a fresco of the Wedding Procession of Peleus and Thetis, flanked by frescoes of Silenus on a chariot to the left and Bacchus and Ariadne to the right. On the ceiling are nine sections with frescoes likely representing the life cycle of men. The floor is made of river pebbles, and there’s a balcony on the east side.
Grotto
The grotto was commissioned by Vincenzo I Gonzaga (1562-1612) around 1592 and finished by his son, Ferdinando (1587-1626), in the early 17th century. It consists of two rooms and was built with real rocks, shells, and colored stones, giving it the appearance of being carved directly into the rock. In the first room are niches decorated with the devices of the Gonzagas.
The second smaller room has a barrel vault with niches depicting symbols of the Four Elements and octagons painted with scenes of the story of Alcina from the epic Orlando Furioso by Ludovico Ariosto (1474-1533).
